THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE : 


A  RETROSPECT 


FORTY  YEARS  OF  MILITARY  AND 
NAVAL  SERVICE. 


BY 


JOSEPH   W.    REVERE. 


BOSTON : 
JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  AND  COMPANY, 

(LATK  TICKNOR  &  FIELDS,  AND  FIELDS,  Oscoob,  &  Co.) 
1872. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1872; 

Bv  JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  &  CO., 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


Boston ' 
Stereotyped  and  Printed  by  Rand,  A  very,  &•  Co. 


College 
Library 


Co  tfje  fHemort'eg  of 
COLONEL    PAUL    JOSEPH    REVERE, 

(ioth  Mass.  Infantry,) 
KILLED  AT  GETTYSBURG  ; 


ASSISTANT  SURGEON  EDWARD  H.  R.  REVERE, 

(zoth  Mass.  Infantry,) 
KILLED  AT  ANTIETAM  ; 

BOTH   DYING  ON  THE  FIELD  OF   HONOR   IN   THK 
MOMENT  OF  VICTORY  J 

Cfjis  Folumr 

IS  AFFECTIONATELY   INSCRIBED 

BY 
THE    AUTHOR. 


963596 


CONTENTS. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 
L 

PAGE. 

Introductory  Remarks. — I  enter  the  United-States  Navy.  —  Cruises  to  the 
Pacific,  the  West  Indiea,  and  Gulf  of  Mexico.  — Florida.  — The  Semlnole 
War.  —  Osceola.—  Major  Moniac.  — The  Forty  Thieve*.  —  Coast  of  Cuba. 
—  Piracy.  — A  Prize.— Treasure-Trove.— A  Cyclone  and  ita  Effects.  — Dis- 
appointment   1 


n. 

The  West  Coast  of  Africa.  —  A  Waif  on  the  High  Seas.  —  The  Old  Quarter-mas- 
ter's Yarn.  —  "  The  Volador."  —  The  Chase.  —  The  Capture.  —  The  Sargasso 
Sea.  —  We  make  Prize  of  a  Slaver.  —  Her  Cargo  and  Condition,  —  ATropical 
Calm.  —  A  Water  Famine. — Are  saved  by  Rum  Toddies.  —  Phlogistic  Regi- 
men. —  A  Revolt.  —  Pandemonium.  —  Our  Deliverance. —  Arrival  in  Port.  — 
Moral  deduced  by  a  Portuguese  Trader.  —  Monrovia.  —  Swamped  on  the 
Bar.  — Adieu  to  Africa 


in 

I  pass  my  Examination.  —  The  Frigate  "Constitution." — Cruise  to  the  Medi- 
terranean. —  The  Baltic.  —  Cronstadt.  —  The  Czar  incognito.  —  Festivities.  — 
St.  Petersburg.  —  The  Imperial  Family.  —  Constantine.  —  At  Sea.  —  A  Rus- 
sian Deserter  appears  among  our  Crew. —  The  Pole 17 

V 


Vi  CONTENTS. 

IV. 

PAGE. 

Story  of  the  Polish  Officer.  — Siberia.— The  Exiles.  — The  Chains.  —  Ra- 
tions.—  Death  and  Burial  of  the  Exiles. — The  Prussian  Allies  of  Rus- 
sia.—  Dreadful  Privations.  —  Escapes  and  Recaptures.  —  Converts  to  the 
Greek  Church.  — The  Poor  Polak.— ie«e-A/iyest<5.— The  Mines.— Charity 
in  Russia.  — The  Siberian  Exile  Dead  to  the  World.— Inhumanity  and  Bes- 
tiality of  the  Government.  —  Maxim  of  the  Imperial  Government.  —  Russian 
Servility.  — End  of  the  Story  of  the  Polish  Officer 21 


V. 

Rome.  — Gregory  XVI. — An  Interview  with  Letltia  Ramollno.  — Art  Treas- 
ures. — The  Coliseum.  —  Holy  Stones.  —  A  Practical  Officer.  —  Sicily.  —  An- 
ecdote of  Calabrian  Brigands.  —  The  English  Frigate  "  Barham."  —  English- 
men fixing  the  Price  of  their  own  Ransom.  —  Tariff  for  Rogues  and  for  Honest 
Men. — The  Adriatic  and  the  Ionian  Islands. — Athens.  —  King  Otho. — A 
Patent  Yankee  Exterminator,  the  Grandfather  of  the  Mitrailleuse. — Narrow 
Escape  from  Regicide.  —  Sauve  qui  peut 28 


VL 

Levantine  Society.— Smyrna. —  The  Casino— The  Dardanelles.  —  Constanti- 
nople. —  Sultan  Mahmoud  — His  Skill  in  Archery.— The  ^EgeanSea.  — A 
Heavy  Storm. — Narrow  Escape  from  Shipwreck.  —  Asia  Minor. —  Beyrout. 
—  Sidon.  —  A  Visit  to  and  Interview  with  Lady  Hester  Stanhope. — A  Mid- 
night Stance  with  her  Ladyship.  —  Her  Theological  System  of  Belief.  —  Sir 
John  Moore.  —  Her  Famous  Mares.  —  Return  on  Board 85 


VII. 

St.  Jean  d'Acre. — Ibrahim  Pacha.  —  His  Appearance.  —  Jaffa.  —  Jerusalem. 

—  The  Dead  Sea.  — The  Jordan.  — Arab  Sentiment.  —  Alexandria.  —  Re- 
ception by  Mahomet  All,  Pacha  of  Egypt.  —  Emir  Bey.  —  His  Leap  from 
the  Walls  of  the  Citadel  of  Cairo.  —  Kismet.  —  Portugal.  —  Spain.  —  Journey 
with  Gypsies.  —  Pedrecillo.  —  The  Gitanos.  —  The  Order  of  March.  —  Evora. 

—  Estremoz.  — Elvas.  —  Arrival  at  Badajos.  — Travelling  on  Horseback.  — 
The  Spanish  Arrieros 45 


VIII. 

Merida,  the  Spanish  Rome.  — Roman  Bridge  built  by  Trajan.  — Its  Magnifi- 
cent and  Stupendous  Remains.— The  Lake  of  Proserpine.  — The  Ruined 
Aqueducts.  —  The  Circus  Maxlmus.  —  The  Forum.  —  The  Reservoirs. — Es- 


CONTENTS.  vii 

PAGE. 

tremadnra.  —  Its  Porcine  Products. — The  Hams  of  Montanches.  —  On  the 
Road.  —  The  Confessional  of  St.  Peter.  —  Robbers. — The  Diligence  gone 
through  by  them.  —  An  Irate  British  Subject.  —  We  have  it  in  our  Power  to 
relieve  the  Distressed.  —  Medellin  and  Trujillo,  the  Birthplaces  of  Pizarro 
and  Cortes.  —  Caceres.  —  Romantic  Ride.  —  Arrival  at  Alcantara.  —  The  Fa- 
mous Bridge.  —  Inscription 63 

IX. 

The  Military  Orders  of  Chivalry.  —  Peculiarity  of  the  Catholic  Church.  — The 
Jesuits.  —  Our  Journey.  —  Corla.  —  Montanches  —  Placencia.  —  A  Lovely 
Maiden.  —  Beautiful  Country.  —  Tuste,  and  the  Convent  of  San  Geronimo, 
the  Last  Retreat  of  Charles  V.  —  Farewell  to  Estremadura  ....  69 


X. 

The  Kingdom  of  Toledo.  —  Talavera.  —  Toledo.  —  Arrival  at  Madrid. —The 
Royal  Palace.  —  The  Armory.  —  Pictures. — The  Unwholesome  Climate  of 
the  Capital  of  Spain.  —  The  Museo.  —  Society.  —  Tertulias.  —  The  Puerta  del 
Bol.  — I  seek  a  Guide.  — An  Aficinado.  —  Journey  Northwards.  —  The  Es> 
corial.  —  A  Chateau  en  Espagne.  —  La  Granja.  —  The  Castle  in  the  Air.  — 
Penalard.  —  Queen  Christina.  —  Munoz.  —  Blasco's  Account  of  their  Amours 
and  Management  of  the  King,  Ferdinand  VII.  —  Away  with  Melancholy. —  * 
Segovia.  — The  Alcazar 08 

XL 

Col.  Reyes  of  the  Spanish  Army.— The  Road.  —  Valladolld.  —  Simancas.  — 
Adventure  of  Manuel  Blanco.  —  His  Imprisonment  and  Release.  —  His 
Account  of  the  Little  Fiasco  at  the  Hotel.  —  We  set  forth  again.  —  Aranda 
del  Duero.  —  Arrive  at  Peoaranda.  —  The  Zuniga  Family.  — Old  Castle.— 
Blasco  grows  Sentimental 74 

XIL 

Story  of  the  Fair  Inez.  — A  Rou£  of  the  Middle  Ages.  — His  Prodigality  and 
Profligacy.  — TheAbbot's  Counsel. —  Don  Baltazar  joins  the  Crusade.— He 
is  highly  successful  In  a  Military  Point  of  View.  — His  Piety.  —  Reform.  — 
Return  Home.  —  Thrift.  —  Feudal  Justice. — Clear  Conscience. —  Prosper- 
ity.—  Gypsies.  —  Their  Impiety  and  Sacrilege.  —  The  Ghana. — Imprison 
ment  illy  endured.— A  Convert.  — The  Comadre.— The  Old  Count  smitten. 
—  The  Golden  Chain 80 

xin. 

Continuation  of  the  Story  of  the  Fair  Inez.  —  Determination  of  the  Count  of 
Miranda.  — July  wedded  to  December. — Description  of  the  Fair  Inez. — 


viii  CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Her  Beauty. — Her  Spirits.  —  Her  Innocence.  —  An  Old  Man's  Darling. — 
The  Green-eyed  Monster.  —  The  Pages.  —  The  Seignorial  Throne.  —  Peril  of 
the  Page.  —  His  Departure.  —  Its  Consequences.  —  Sudden  Return  of  the 
Page  Damiano  de  Zufiiga.  —  End  of  the  Story  of  the  Fair  Inez.  —  Lerma  .  86 


XIV. 

Burgos.— The  Cathedral.  —  The  Castle. —  Las  Huelgas.  —  Pilgrimage  to  the 
Tomb  of  the  Cid.  —  Miraflores.  —  The  Mausoleum  of  the  Parents  of  Isabel  the 

Catholic. — San  Pedro  de  Cardefia.  —  Bavieca Inscription.  —  Tombs  of  the 

Cid,  his  Wife  Ximena,  and  their  Two  Daughters.  — The  Start  from  Burgos. 
—  Overtake  a  Carlist  Expedition.  —  Dona  Florencia.  —  A  Brave  Lady.  —  The 
Soldiers  of  Don  Carlos.  —  Arrival  before  Logrono. — The  Skirmish.  —  The 
Attack.  —  Entrance  into  the  Town.  —  A  Night  Combat.  —  Daylight.  —  Martin 
Zurbano.  —  A  Military  Execution.  —  Shocking  Episode  of  the  Civil  War. — 
Subsequent  Fate  of  Zurbano.  —  Disappearance  of  Blasco.  —  He  re-appears. 
— We  again  take  the  Road.  —  The  Pyrenees.  —  Pamplona. — Journey  to 
Paris. — Exploit  of  Blasco.  —  Be>anger.  —  An  Interview  with  the  Great 
Chansonnier. — Return  to  Spain.  —  Granada.  —  Pepe  Montes,  the  Famous 
Bull-Fighter.  —  His  Adventure  in  the  Plaza  do  Torus  of  Granada.  —  Indig- 
nant Retreat  thence  06 


XV. 

Historical  Retrospect.  —  Causes  of  the  Decline  of  the  Spanish  Monarchy.  —  The 
Successors  of  Charles  V.  —  Effect  of  the  Expulsion  of  the  Moors.  —  Of  the 
Discovery  of  the  Americas.  —  The  Laws  of  the  Mesta.  —  Incredible  Folly  of 
Similar  Laws.  —  Natural  Result.  —  Paralyzation  of  Industrial  Pursuits. — 
Contempt  for  every  Axiom  of  Political  Economy.  —  Destruction  of  the  Na- 
tional Prosperity  — Unreasonable  Reverence  for  the  Kingly  Power.  —  De- 
generation.—  Sketch  of  Ferdinand  VII.  —  Christina.  —  Revocation  of  the 
Salic  Law.  —  Death  of  Ferdinand.  —  Revolt  of  Don  Carlos  and  Breaking-Out 
of  the  Civil  War.— Espauolismo  the  Curse  of  Spain 113 


XVI. 

Visit  to  Algiers.— Arab  Sentiment.— Abd-el-Kader.  —  French  Soldiers.  — The 
Casbah.— Expedition  to  Blidah.  —  Skirmish  with  the  Kabyles.  — The 
Zephyrs.  —  Capt.  Eylau.  —  Arrival  on  the  Field  of  the  Spahis. — Victory. 
—  An  Oriental  Frenchman.  —  I  meet  Manuel  Blasco.  —  Blidah.  —  End  of 
Poor  Blasco  in  Matrimony 122 

XVII. 

Return  Home. — Voyage  of  Circumnavigation.  —  Madeira.  —  Zanzibar.  —  The 
Imam  of  Muscat.  — The  Eunuch  Ahmed.— A  Valorous  Vizier.— A  Coup- 


CONTENTS.  ix 

PAGE. 

de  Main,  and  Capture  of  Mombas.  —  A  Forlorn  Hope.  —  Allocution  of  the 
Imam.  —  Success.  —  The  Red  Sea.  —  Muscat. — Bombay.  —  March  of  Lord 
Keane's  Army.  —  Splendid  Military  Spectacle.  —  Composition  of  an  Indian 
Army.  —  Sumatra.  —  War  with  Malay  Pirates.  —  Sickness  among  our  Crew. 
Singapore.  —  China — We  pass  through  the  Bashee  Passage  into  the  South 
Sea. — Arrival  at  Boston. — In  the  West  Indies  again.  —  I  experience  a  Great 
Sea  Bore.  —  Tragic  Fate  of  "The  Clio" 132 


XVIII. 

Cruise  to  the  Pacific  In  1845.  — My  Ship  Joins  the  Squadron  of  Com.  Bloat  at 
Mazatlan.  —  The  Details  of  this  Cruise  previously  published  in  "  A  Tour  of 
Duty  in  the  Pacific."  —  I  here  continue  this  Work  as  a  Sequel  to  that  One. — 
Taking  Possession  of  the  Californias,  and  hoisting  the  Flag  of  the  United 
States.  —  Her  Majesty's  Ship  "  Cornwallis,"  Admiral  Sir  Michael  Seymour, 
is  forestalled  by  our  Action.  —  Com.  Stockton.  —  Gen.  Kearny.  — Kit  Car- 
son.—  Expedition  to  recover  the  Pueblo  de  Los  Angeles.  —  Passage  of  the 
River  of  San  Gabriel.  —  Combat  of  La  Mesa.  —  Cavalry  Charges  of  the  Mexi- 
cans.—  They  make  no  Impression  on  our  Square.  —  Their  Retreat.  —  En- 
trance into  Los  Angeles.  —  Capture  of  San  Jose1,  Lower  California,  and 
Guaymas.  —  Occupation  of  Mazatlan.  —  Return  to  Boston 143 


XIX. 

Appointment  as  Timber-Agent  for  the  United  States  in  California.  —  Discovery 
of  Gold.  —  Hush  for  the  Mines.  —  I  sail  for  the  Isthmus.  —  Arrival  at  Cha- 
gres.  —  Gold-Seekers.  —  Chocolate.  —  IU  Uses  for  the  Traveller.  —  Baron 
Steinbergen. — Our  Embargo  at  Gorgona.  —  I  take  the  Isthmus-Fever. — 
Start  for  Panama.  —  Meet  with  a  Good  Woman.  —  Meet  a  Friend  in  the 
Street.  —  I  go  to  his  House  and  am  cared  for.  —  I  recover,  and  embark  for 
San  Francisco.  —Change  wrought  in  that  City.  —  Singular  State  of  Society. 
—  I  meet  an  Old  Shipmate.  —  His  Remarkable  Hospitality.  —  Anecdote  of 
the  Maid  of  Mrs.  Gen.  Smith .151 


XX. 

San  Geronimo.  —  Account  of  my  Rancbo.  —  Impossibility  of  engaging  in  any 
Agricultural  Pursuit.  —  I  resolve  to  visit  the  Placer.  —  Arrival  at  the  Dry 
Diggings.  —  State  of  the  Labor  Market.  —  Prospecting.  —  Sales  of  Cattle. — 
Commercial  Ventures.  —  Successful  Operations.  —  Return  to  San  Geronimo. 
—  Visit  to  San  Francisco.  —  Emigrants  from  Abroad.  —  Act  as  Pilot  for  the 
Sacramento.  —  The  Peruvian  Company  of  Miners.  —  Coca,  its  Use  by 
them.  —  Pedro  Beltran. —  Account  of  a  Coquero 158 


xii  CONTENTS. 

•  PAGE. 

Convert.  —  An  Unseen  Witness  — Terrible  Scene  in  the  Cemetery  of  San 
Juan.  —  Indian  Superstition.  —  Father  Ipolito  explains  away  the  Mystery. 
—D&ioument  of  the  Story  of  the  Maid  of  the  Inn 226 


XXX. 

Expedition  to  Morelia.  —  The  March.  —  The  Diana.  —  Qnajimalpa.  —  Toluca. — 
Hacienda  de  laOabla.  —  A  Magnificent  Property.  —  Taximaroa.  —  Querenda- 
ro.  —  Our  Cavalry  engaged.  —  Ambush  in  the  Defile  of  Los  Trojis  de  An- 
gangueo.  —  A  Novel  Light- Artillery  Manoeuvre.  —  The  Column  saved  by 
Prompt  Action  of  the  Artillery.  —  Mexican  Horses  and  Riders  — Patzcuaro. 

—  SUCCORS  of  the  Expedition.  —  Return  to  the  Capital.  —  Place  Hunters.  — The 
Hotel  de  Iturbide.  —  A  Street  Acquaintance. — A  Promenade.  —  Agreeable 
Impressions. — An  Old  Schoolmate.  —  A  Rival.  —  Mutual  Confidences. — 
The  Alameda.  —  Discontent  of  Valdes.  —  He  moralizes.  —  The  Old  Cavalier. 

—  Horsemanship  a  la  Haute  Ecole. —  Odious  Comparisons     ....    232 


XXXI. 

The  Chase  after  the  Hat.  —  Change  in  the  Demeanor  of  Valdes.  —  A  Free 
Young  Lady.  —  A  Siren.  —  A  Recognition.  —  A  Rebuff.  —  Counter  Recogni- 
tion.—  Courtesans.  —  Dreams.  —  Morning  Salutations.  —  Visit  to  the  Minis- 
ter of  the  Interior.  —  Unexpected  Rencontre.  —  His  Excellency  is  cool  to- 
wards Antonio 240 


XXXII. 

A  Critical  Situation.  —  Polite  Dismissal.  —  Valdes.  —  Rapid  Exit .  —  Reflections 
in  the  Street.  —  Philosophic  Determination.  —  A  Pleasant  Dinner.  —  Mono- 
logue upon  Wine.  —  Generosity. — The  Mistaken  Door.  —  Post  Bacchum 
Venus.  —  Finding  an  Ally.  —  Note  from  the  Minister. — The  Breakfast. — 
Moral,  and  End  of  the  Story  of  Don  Antonio  Palacios 246 


XXXIII. 

I  leave  the  Mexican  Army.  —  Preparations  to  return  to  the  United  States. — 
Leave  the  City  by  Diligence. —  My  Travelling  Companions.  —  Perote. — 
Robbers.— A  Shot  Right  and  Left  with  Both  Barrels.  — Pusillanimity.  — Ar- 
rival at  Vera  Cruz,  and,  after,  at  New  Orleans.  —  Proceed  up  the  Missis- 
sippi. —  Lieut.  Thomas  J.  Jackson ,  United-States  Army. — Astrology.  —  Jack- 
son's  Singular  Opinions.  —  Strange  Prediction.  —  His  Enthusiastic  Charac- 
ter .  .  .  252 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

XXXIV. 

PAGE. 

Italy.  — Strasbnrg.— The  Russian  Colonel.  —  The  Old  French  Major's  Story. 
-  Military  Discipline.  — The  Army  of  the  Rhine  of  1815.  — Gen.  Rapp.— 
A  Military  Revolt.  —  Causes  of  the  Mutiny.  —  Dalhousle.  — The  Enemy 
still  held  in  Check.  —  Discipline  preserved  in  an  Army  in  Revolt.  —  Success 
of  the  Mutineers.  — Their  Return  to  Obedience.  — End  of  the  Revolt  —A 
Visit  to  the  Cantiniere  of  the  Fourth  of  the  Line,  the  Doyenne  of  the  French 
Cantinieres 25S 

XXXV. 

Paris.  — Major  Philip  Kearny.  —  His  Opinions  on  the  Approaching  War  of  the 
Rebellion.  —  Adieux  and  Assurances. — Breaking-Out  of  Hostilities.  —  Su in- 
ter.—  Great  Movement  among  the  People  of  the  North.  —  Imbecility  of  the 
Administration.  — Bull  Run.  — Worthlessness  of  the  Militia.— The  People 
outrun  the  Government.  —  I  again  enter  the  Service.  —  Am  appointed 
Colonel  of  the  Seventh  New-Jersey  Infantry.  —  Recruits  in  Plenty. — Arrival 
In  Washington. — Condition  of  the  Army.  —  Gen.  McClellan.  —  Organiza- 
tion.—  IfcClellan's  Labors. —  Ills  Success 209 


PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

THE  LIEUTENANT'S  STORY 283 

THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S  STORY 293 

t 

THE  MAJOR'S  STORY 316 

THE  GENERAL'S  STORY 342 

MONTE;  OR,  THE  ROBBERS 355 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 


i. 


T^HE  simple  record  of  the  career  of  almost  any  person, 
however  humble,  furnishes  some  useful  lessons,  from 
which  may  be  derived  either  guidance  or  warning ;  and  the 
story  of  an  active  life  full  of  vicissitudes  and  strange  ex- 
periences, lacking  though  it  may  the  graces  of  rhetoric  and 
the  riches  of  scholarship,  can  hardly  fail  to  point  some  profit- 
able moral  to  the  few,  while  it  may  possibly  entertain  the 
many. 

These  are  the  considerations  which  have  led  me  to  write  the 
following  pages  at  a  time  of  life  when  my  career  may  be  re- 
garded as  closed,  and  leisure  has  been  found  to  condense  the 
diaries  and  memoranda  I  have  always  been  in  the  habit  of 
keeping. 

Following  the  bent  of  an  early  predilection  for  foreign  travel, 
I  entered  the  United-States  navy  at  the  age  of  fourteen  years, 
as  a  midshipman ;  and,  after  a  short  term  spent  at  the  Naval 
School  at  the  New- York  Navy  Yard,  I  sailed  on  my  first  cruise 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  board  the  frigate  "  Guerriere,"  bear- 
ing the  pennant  of  Com.  Charles  C.  B.  Thompson,  in  the 
summer  of  the  year  1828. 

l  i 


2     .  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

For  three  years  I  served  in  the  Pacific  squadron,  and  was 
duly  initiated  into  the  tough  discipline  then  in  vogue  in  our 
navy,  the  rigorous  practice  of  which  had  originated  during 
the  war  of  1812. 

Upon  my  return  I  enjoyed  but  a  short  respite,  and  in  a  few 
months  found  myself  on  board  a  corvette  on  the  West-India 
station  ;  and,  having  been  transferred  to  the  schooner  "  Flirt " 
and  other  vessels,  was  finally  attached  to  what  was  called  the 
"  mosquito  fleet,"  —  a  flotilla  of  small  vessels  and  boats  co- 
operating with  the  army  in  Florida. 

Cruising  in  the  Everglades  in  a  barge,  exposed  to  the 
weather  for  weeks,  I  found  decidedly  rough  :  but,  though  the 
Seminole  War  was  in  progress,  no  encounters  with  the  enemy 
occurred  to  mitigate  the  tedium  of  my  situation ;  for  except- 
ing a  few  prisoners  I  saw  at  Tampa,  including  the  celebrated 
Osceola,  I  never  beheld  an  Indian. 

After  vain  efforts  to  "  surprise  "  our  wily  foe,  the  cruise  at 
last  ended,  having. been  signalized  by  the  loss  of  one  of  our  men 
from  fever  induced  by  mosquito-bites,  and  the  disabling  of 
several  others  from  the  same  cause;  and  with  the  warlike 
trophies  of  one  small  squaw  captured  at  a  deserted  camp,  and 
a  keg  of  powder,  we  returned  to  St.  Augustine. 

Here  we  found  Gen.  Jesup's  army  about  to  march  to  the 
Indian  country  ;  and  the  quaint  little  Spanish  town  was  alive 
with  excitement  over  the  military  preparations. 

As  I  stood  one  morning  admiring  a  fine  regiment  of  Creek 
Indians,  who  were  being  mustered  into  the  service  of  the 
United  States,  I  was  suddenly  seized  by  the  shoulders  from 
behind,  and  saluted  with  the  characteristic  ejaculation,  — 
"  Ugh  !  "  Turning  instantly,  I  found  myself  in  the  embrace 
of  a  tall  Indian,  naked  except  for  his  breech-cloth  and  red- 
cloth  leggings,  his  head  shaved  clean  save  the  chivalrous 
scalp-lock;  while  the  thick  war-paint  prevented  me  from  rec- 
ognizing his  dusky  visage.  The  warrior  proved  to  be  Moniac, 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  3 

a  young  Creek  chief,  who  had  been  educated  at  the  Military 
Academy  at  West  Point,  with  whom  I  had  been  intimately 
acquainted  in  New  York,  and  who  was  now  a  major  of  the 
Creek  regiment.  Although  he  had  been  accustomed  for  four 
years  to  the  drill  and  discipline  of  West  Point,  had  graduated 
with  honor  at  that  institution,  had  participated  in  the  pleasures, 
and  perhaps  partaken  of  some  of  the  pleasant  vices,  of  civi- 
lization, Moniac,  upon  returning  to  his  tribe,  had  declined  ac- 
cepting a  commission  tendered  him  as  an  officer  of  the  army, 
and  had  chosen  to  resume  all  the  apparent  hardships  and  perils 
of  savage  life. 

Perhaps  he  was  right :  but  I  never  knew ;  for  a  few  weeks 
afterwards,  while  gallantly  leading  his  battalion,  he  was  killed 
by  his  relatives  (the  Seminoles  are  descended  from  the  Creeks) 
at  the  battle  of  Okeechobee. 

Leaving  St.  Augustine  for  Tampa  and  Pensacola,  I  was 
ordered  to  Key  West  from  the  latter  place,  to  take  command 
of  a  large  felucca'rigged  boat,  pulling  forty  oars,  and  armed 
with  a  long  twelve-pounder ;  and  received  instructions  to  cruise 
in  the  Old  Bahama  Channel,  and  endeavor  to  capture  a  noted 
pirate  named  Benavides.  Piracy  was  at  that  time  a  regularly- 
organized  business  in  the  West  Indies ;  the  capital  being  sup- 
plied by  persons  in  Cuba  and  the  United  States,  and  the  cut- 
throats by  the  "  faithful  isle."  It  was  very  difficult  to  secure  the 
trial  and  conviction  of  the  corsairs  in  Havana,  however  evident 
their  guilt ;  for  the  Spanish  authorities  were  notoriously  inter- 
ested in  the  profits  of  their  nefarious  calling.  It  is  well 
known,  that,  not  long  before  the  time  I  am  writing  of,  Com. 
David  Porter  was  tried  by  a  court-martial  for  landing  at 
Foxardo  to  capture  some  of  these  gentlemanly  marauders,  —  a 
rebuke  which  led  to  his  leaving  the  profession  of  which  he  was 
so  distinguished  an  ornament. 

For  a  week  or  two  we  saw  nothing  on  our  new  cruising- 
ground  except  a  few  small  merchant-vessels,  and  heard  of  no 


4  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

pirates,  until  one  evening  a  felucca  appeared,  crossing  from 
Cayo  Romano  to  Cuba.  We  immediately  gave  chase,  but  lost 
sight  of  her  at  nightfall.  At  early  daylight  she  was  again 
seen  under  the  land  of  Cuba,  but  suddenly  disappeared  up  one 
of  those  estuaries  which  inlace  the  low  ground  of  the  coast. 
Making  our  way  into  the  one  we  supposed  she  had  entered, 
we  pursued  our  unseen  but  hoped-for  prize  up  its  sinuous 
course,  the  view  being  limited  by  the  banks  of  the  estuary, 
which  were  covered  by  a  mangrove  thicket,  growing  down 
into  the  water,  as  is  the  habit  of  this  plant.  I  landed,  how- 
ever, at  the  entrance  for  a  few  moments,  in  order  to  put  on 
shore  a  couple  of  men  provided  with  means  to  signal  to  us  if 
necessary. 

After  rowing  in  this  way  for  about  ten  or  fifteen  miles,  we 
came  suddenly,  at  a  turn  of  the  estuary,  upon  a  camp,  and  a 
bark-rigged  vessel  lying  at  a  rude  pier.  Here  we  landed, 
with  the  usual  precautions  against  surprise,  and  found  the 
ship  to  be  the  French  bark  "  Amedee "  of  Bordeaux,  evi- 
dently not  long  since  captured  by  pirates.  Her  cargo  had 
been  nearly  all  removed  from  the  vessel,  and  probably  taken 
in  lighters  to  Havana  or  Matanzas ;  but  the  evidences  of  a 
hurried  "  breaking  bulk "  were  everywhere  to  be  seen.  The 
sails  of  the  bark  had  been  burned  (for  we  found  the  incom- 
bustible parts),  the  rudder  unshipped,  and  both  anchors  let 
go ;  so  that  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  remove  her  from 
the  place.  Many  knick-knacks,  which  apparently  did  not 
suit  the  taste  of  the  pirates,  lay  about,  the  embarcadero  being 
strewn  with  various  "  articles  de  Paris."  The  cabin  furnished 
evidence  that  it  had  been  tenanted  by  passengers  of  both 
sexes ;  and  it  was  fearful  to  think  of  what  had  probably  been 
their  fate,  although  we  met  with  no  positive  proofs  that  mur- 
der had  been  done. 

In  the  afternoon  I  wished  to  return  to  the  sea,  but  found 
that  some  of  my  men  had  straggled  away  into  the  country : 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  5 

so,  leaving  the  galley  in  charge  of  a  petty  officer,  I  started 
with  a  small  party  to  hunt  them  up,  ascending  the  hills 
which  rose  above  the  landing-place  to  a  considerable  height. 
Our  search  was  vain,  however :  we  saw  no  traces  of  the  strag- 
glers ;  and,  after  a  walk  of  about  two  miles  along  the  crest,  we 
returned  towards  the  pirates'  camp  down  a  ravine,  in  the  hol- 
low of  which  ran  a  brawling  rivulet. 

The  sides  of  the  ravine  were  precipitous,  and  covered  with 
huge  bowlders,  while  the  dense  and  almost  impenetrable 
verdure  of  the  tropics  clothed  its  surface.  I  tried  to  cover  as 
much  ground  as  possible  with  my  men,  in  order  to  explore  the 
country  as  thoroughly  as  we  could ;  for  I  feared  my  lost  ones 
had  stupefied  themselves  with  liquor  obtained  from  the  French 
bark.  Suddenly  one  of  my  scouts  high  up  the  bank  of  the 
ravine  shouted  to  us  to  ascend ;  and,  thinking  he  had  tidings 
of  the  runaways,  we  scrambled  up  to  his  elevated  position. 
I  found  him  at  the  entrance  of  a  hole,  or  cave,  which  was 
partially  concealed  by  a  bowlder  of  great  size,  the  ground 
around  it  bearing  the  marks  of  footprints,  with  staves  and 
iron  spikes  scattered  about.  Bringing  my  little  band  to- 
gether, I  delegated  a  young  and  agile  foretopman  to  enter  the 
hole  first ;  which  he  did,  shoving  his  carbine  before  him  as  he 
went  in,  and  disappeared  from  our  sight  into  the  bowels  of 
the  earth.  We  prepared  to  follow :  but  the  first  who  entered 
met  the  second  one  returning ;  and,  as  neither  could  pass  the 
other  in  the  narrow  entrance,  we  hauled  the  last  man  out 
by  the  legs.  The  foretopman  reported  that  he  had  passed 
into  a  large  chamber  inside  ;  but  that,  owing  to  the  darkness, 
he  could  say  nothing  as  to  its  size  or  contents. 

Determined  to  prosecute  the  search,  I  improvised  tapers 
made  of  the  torn  leaves  of  a  book  I  had  in  my  pocket ;  and, 
thus  equipped,  we  crawled  in.  At  about  twenty  paces  from 
the  entrance  we  found  ourselves  in  a  circular  chamber,  evi- 
dently an  excavation,  some  fifteen  feet  in  diameter.  Our 
1* 


6  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

means  of  illumination  being  scanty,  we  had  not  time  to  ex- 
amine the  contents  of  some  kegs  and  barrels,  which,  together 
with  some  old  rusty  muskets  and  cutlasses,  and  other  objects 
pertaining  to  seafaring  men,  composed  the  contents  of  the 
room. 

As  we  were  about  to  withdraw,  one  old  tar,  determined  not 
to  go  without  carrying  away  some  memento  of  the  place, 
rolled  out  a  keg  before  him,  thinking,  doubtless,  it  contained 
a  supply  of  liquor;  but  which,  being  upset,  gave  forth  an 
ominous  rattling  sound,  that  indicated  something  more  sub- 
stantial. We  rolled  the  keg  down  to  the  camp,  which  I  de- 
sired to  reach  before  the  approaching  sunset ;  after  which,  in 
the  tropics,  there  is  no  twilight.  I  found,  upon  my  arrival, 
that  our  stragglers  had  returned,  my  fears  having  been  un- 
founded as  to  their  drinking ;  for  the  pirates  had  evidently 
consumed,  or  effectually  concealed,  all  liquors. 

Sentinels  having  been  placed  around  the  camp,  we  went  to 
sleep  after  supper,  pleased  with  visions  of  untold  wealth  to 
be  secured  in  the  morning  at  the  cave,  which  we  imagined 
must  contain  the  fabulous  treasures  of  Aladdin  ;  for  the  keg 
we  had  brought  with  us  was  filled  with  newly-minted  Spanish 
dollars.  Shortly  after  midnight  my  dreams  were  inter- 
rupted by  a  sentinel,  who  reported  that  a  fire  was  burning 
brightly  at  the  entrance  to  the  estuary.  As  this  was  the  sig- 
nal agreed  upon  in  case  our  presence  was  required,  I  had  no 
alternative  but  to  start  at  once ;  and  we  manned  our  row- 
galley,  and  sped  down  the  creek  as  fast  as  forty  pairs  of  vigor- 
ous arms  could  propel  us.  The  day  was  breaking  as  we 
arrived  at  our  destination  ready  and  eager  for  action  j  for  we 
thought  it  probable  that  the  pirates  were  returning  to  their 
haunt,  which  was  as  secure  a  puerto  escondido  for  those  buc- 
caneers—  "friends  to  the  sea,  and  enemies  to  all  who  sail  on 
it "  —  as  could  be  found  in  Cuba. 

My  lookout  men  reported  having  seen  a  light  at  sea,  which 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  7 

we  soon  saw,  and,  boarding  the  vessel,  found  her  to  be  His  Maj- 
esty's schooner  "  Monkey  "  on  a  cruise ;  and  her  commander 
handed  me  a  despatch  from  the  commander  of  the  United-States 
schooner  "Grampus,''  directing  me  to  join  him  at  Havana  as 
soon  after  I  received  it  as  possible.  Reluctant  to  abandon  our 
promising  investigations,  we  squared  away  the  long  yards  of  the 
felucca  before  the  trade-wind,  and  next  morning  rounded  the 
Moro  Castle,  ensign  and  pennant  flying,  and  anchored  near 
"  The  Grampus."  The  secret  of  our  discovery  was  religiously 
kept,  and  the  keg  of  dollars  divided  amongst  the  crew,  each 
receiving  about  fifty  dollars ;  and  we  cheered  each  other  by 
the  prospect  of  soon  returning  to  the  cache,  and  enriching 
ourselves  with  the  pirates'  hoarded  treasure. 

A  few  days  after  our  arrival,  one  of  those  terrible  cyclones 
which  periodically  devastate  the  West  Indies  came  on;  and 
it  seemed  as  if  the  city  would  be  torn  down  by  the  mere 
power  of  the  wind.  Several  vessels  were  destroyed  by  being 
dashed  violently  against  the  wharves  at  Regla ;  houses  were 
unroofed ;  the  belfry  of  a  church  of  great  solidity  was  blown 
down,  the  heavy  bell  being  hurled  to  the  distance  of  several 
squares  from  the  building.  Ponderous  cannon,  en  barbette 
on  the  walls  of  the  Cabana,  were  blown  into  the  sea,  and 
many  lives  were  lost.  The  damage  to  vessels  at  sea  was  im- 
mense ;  and  the  hurricane  was  long  afterwards  remembered 
and  chronicled  as  the  heaviest  known  for  years.  In  the 
interior,  plantations  were  ruined  in  a  single  night ;  millions 
of  dollars  worth  of  crops  destroyed ;  houses  blown  down ; 
machinery  wrecked;  and  even  ancient  landmarks  either 
removed  altogether,  or  transported  to  incredible  distances,  by 
the  wind. 

"  The  Grampus  "  and  "  The  Forty  Thieves  "  safely  rode  out 
this  tremendous  gale  ;  and,  after  its  fury  had  abated,  our  crews 
were  instrumental  in  saving  much  property  and  some  lives  in 
the  harbor. 


8  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

About  a  week  after  this  catastrophe,  the  weather  becoming 
settled,  and  the  trade-winds  having  resumed  their  usual  direc- 
tion, we  started  again  for  our  former  cruising-ground,  and  soon 
reached  the  embarcadero,  near  the  underground  treasury.  On 
landing,  we  found  everywhere  marks  of  the  passage  of  the 
hurricane.  The  French  bark  had  been  completely  torn  to 
pieces,  as  if  the  centre  of  the  cyclone  had  passed  over  her. 
A  heavy  anchor  which  was  upon  her  deck  at  the  time  of  our 
first  visit,  and  her  capstan,  lay  far  up  the  hillside,  and  were 
embedded  in  the  earth  as  if  they  had  been  shot  from  guns. 
The  rude  sheds  which  had  sheltered  the  pirates  were  tossed 
about  like  paper ;  the  whole  landing-place  had  been  deluged 
with  water;  and  enormous  rocks  from  above  cumbered  the 
ground. 

With  doubting  steps,  and  hearts  saddened  by  the  sight  of 
such  terrible  havoc,  we  took  our  way  to  the  cave;  but  the 
fair  face  of  Nature  seemed  to  have  undergone  an  all-pervading 
change.  In  places  where,  on  our  first  visit,  there  were  levels, 
now  were  hollows,  or  mounds  of  earth  and  rock ;  and  where 
mounds  had  once  been  was  now  level  ground. 

The  entrance  to  the  cave,  the  object  of  so  many  hopes  and 
fears,  had  disappeared;  and  although  we  searched  for  two 
whole  days  with  all  our  force,  and  brought  all  our  ingenuity 
to  bear,  we  could  not  discover  it.  At  my  previous  visit  I  had 
hurriedly  taken  the  cross-bearings  of  the  entrance  by  a  couple 
of  lofty  ceiba-trees  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ravine ;  but 
these  also  had  been  levelled  with  the  earth  ;  and  the  huge  rock 
which  had  sentinelled  the  entrance  to  the  cave  had  been 
hurled  from  its  lofty  place,  and  doubtless  lay  undistinguished 
from  others  in  the  bed  of  the  rivulet.  Every  evidence  of  the 
existence  of  the  cave  had  been  obliterated ;  and  we  returned 
to  our  boat  as  poor  as  we  came. 


II. 


MY  next  cruise  was  to  the  coast  of  Africa ;  and  most 
monotonous  it  was.  We  spent  our  time  almost  en- 
tirely on  board  ship  without  society,  at  sea  almost  constantly, 
and  not  daring  to  pass  even  one  night  on  shore  in  that  pes- 
tiferous atmosphere.  Occasionally  a  chase  of  some  slavers 
would  vary  the  usual  routine  of  duty,  and  afford  some  little 
excitement :  hut,  for  the  most  part,  we  were  thrown  entirely 
on  our  own  resources ;  and  those  inclined  to  such  employ- 
ments had  ample  time  for  study  and  improvement.  The  sev- 
eral ports  we  visited  gave  our  officers  little  pleasure  or  profit; 
and  we  all  agreed  that  "  the  coast "  was  another  Pandemonium 
•  on  a  very  limited  scale.  At  sea  we  alternately  were  drenched 
with  the  heavy  equatorial  rains,  and  scorched  by  the  fierce 
tropical  sun  ;  and  the  boat  service  in  the  rivers  was  simply 
detestable. 

One  day,  while  cruising,  I  got  leave  to  lower  a  boat  in 
order  to  pick  up  specimens  of  the  nautilus,  which  are  very 
large  and  handsome  in  some  parts  of  what  is  called  by  mariners 
the  Sargasso  Sea.  Quite  absorbed  in  my  search,  I  went  some 
miles  from  the  ship,  which  lay  becalmed  "  like  a  painted  ship 
upon  a  painted  ocean ; "  and  suddenly  espied  a  large  object 
rising  and  falling  on  the  long  swell.  It  proved  to  be  a  cask 
covered  with  barnacles,  and,  as  was  evidenced  by  the  long  sea- 
weed that  trailed  from  it  as  we  lifted  it  into  the  cutter,  had 
been  a  long  time  in  the  water.  It  turned  out  to  be  a  forty- 

9 


10  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

gallon  cask  of  old  Santa-Cruz  rum,  of  fine  taste  and  flavor, 
evidently  acquired  in  its  long  voyages.  On  its  head  were 
branded  some  almost  illegible  characters,  among  which  could 
be  made  out  the  word  "  Volador."  That  night  I  had  the 
middle  watch ;  and,  as  the  ship  went  easily  along  under  the 
influence  of  a  light  breeze,  the  old  quartermaster  at  the  "con" 
spun  me  the  following  yarn  :  — 

"  It  seems  to  me,  sir,  that  I  have  sailed  before  to-day  with 
that  cask  which  you  picked  up  with  such  remarkable  luck. 
[I  suppose  that  if  I  had  found  a  diamond  as  large  as  the  Koh- 
i-noor,  it  would  not  have  possessed  such  value  as  the  cask 
had  in  the  old  tar's  estimation.]  Just  two  years  ago  I  was 
returning  to  the  West  Indies  from  this  coast  in  a  clipper 
schooner,  a  slaver.  We  were  bound  to  a  port  on  the  south 
side  of  Cuba,  and  had  approached  the  Sail-rock  Passage,  cal- 
culating the  handsome  profits  we  should  reap  from  our  cargo 
of  blackbirds,  when  we  fell  in  with  a  British  man-of-war, 
which  immediately  gave  chase. 

"  Our  vessel  was  very  fast ;  and  we  flew  along  before  a  fresh 
trade-wind,  with  every  rag  set  that  would  draw ;  and  for  sev- 
eral hours  we  seemed  to  beat  His  Majesty's  cruiser:  but 
towards  evening  our  captain  took  it  into  his  head  to  shorten 
sail,  haul  up  on  the  starboard  tack,  and  try  to  gain  the  shelter 
of  the  land  under  San  Domingo,  when  we  might  evade  our 
pursuer.  This  ruse  is  not  unusual  with  slavers,  and  might 
have  succeeded :  but,  after  an  anxious  night,  the  dawn  showed 
us  that  our  manoeuvre  had  been  anticipated  by  the  commander 
of  the  war-brig ;  for  he  was  in  shore  of  us,  and  not  far  off. 
That  he  was  alert  was  very  apparent ;  for,  although  under  easy 
sail  when  we  first  saw  him,  his  royals  and  steering-sails  were 
instantly  set,  his  courses  dropped,  and  his  course  altered  to  a 
point  converging  towards  our  own,  so  as  to  close ;  and  soon  a 
puff  of  white  smoke  from  his  bow-gun  accompanied  the  rise  of 
the  red-cross  flag  to  his  main  peak.  The  chase  lasted  until 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  11 

two,  P.M.,  with  little  advantage  to  either  side ;  but  we  man- 
aged to  keep  out  of  range  of  his  guns,  although  we  could  see 
that  he  was  steadily  gaining  on  us. 

"  His  best  point  of  sailing  was  (  going  free,'  while  ours  was 
'  close  hauled : '  so  we  took  in  the  steering-sails,  and  attempted 
to  bring  the  schooner  by  the  wind.  The  evolution  failed  ;  and 
we  had  neared  him  by  attempting  it,  and  lost  ground  also,  as 
every  attempt  to  '  luff '  was  met  by  a  lee  helm  on  board  the 
brig,  while  his  occasional  shots  came  nearer  and  nearer.  We 
started  our  water,  slacked  up  the  lanyards  of  the  standing  rig- 
ging, knocked  the  wedges  out  of  the  partners  to  give  the 
masts  play,  and  finally  sawed  several  deck-beams  in  twain ; 
but  nothing  availed  us.  We  then  began  to  lighten  the 
schooner,  first  throwing  over  the  deck-load  and  all  the  spare 
spars  and  boats  ;  and  finally  all  the  provisions,  even  the  cabin- 
stores,  including,  I  believe,  that  precious  cask  you  fell  in  with 
to-day,  for  I  had,  on  rare  occasions,  tasted  its  contents  by 
especial  favor.  But  our  efforts  were  all  useless  ;  and  the  head 
of  our  foremast  having  been  shot  away,  and  carried  with  it  the 
jib-boom  and  head-sails,  and  the  schooner  almost  reduced  to 
a  wreck,  we  were  taken  by  the  cruiser,  and  carried  into  Port 
Royal,  Jamaica,  where  the  vessel  was  condemned,  and  the 
crew  set  adrift.  I  shipped  in  a  vessel  bound  to  New  York, 
being  without  money  or  even  clothes;  and  thus  ended  my 
cruise  in  the  saucy  '  Volador '  ('  Flying-Fish  ' )." 

Eight  bells  struck  as  the  old  quartermaster  finished  his 
yarn  ;  and,  having  been  relieved,  I  invited  the  old  man  down 
to  my  room  to  taste  again  the  contents  of  that  cask  "  he  had 
sailed  with  before."  I  have  no  doubt  it  was  the  same,  and 
that  the  cask  had  followed  the  current  westward  until  it  fell 
in  with  the  Gulf  stream,  which  carried  it  eastward  again,  and, 
passing  by  the  shores  of  Europe,  deposited  it  in  that  great 
receptacle  of  seaweed  and  other  waifs,  the  Sargasso  Sea,  where 
we  found  it. 


12  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

I  believe  that  some  day  this  enormous  deposit  of  weed  will 
be  made  available  for  agriculture,  as  it  is  especially  rich  in 
soda  and  the  phosphates,  and  easily  collected ;  while,  being  on 
the  high  seas,  no  nation  can  claim  the  exclusive  privilege  of 
gathering  and  shipping  it. 

Off  the  mouth  of  the  Bonny  we  gave  chase  to  a  slaver  which 
incautiously  hoisted  American  colors,  thinking  our  ship  an 
English  cruiser ;  and  this  made  him  a  good  prize  under  exist- 
ing treaties.  I  was  directed  to  take  her  into  port  after  the 
capture,  and  boarded  her  with  a  boat's  crew  of  sixteen  men  ; 
while  the  corvette  left  us,  and  stood  away  for  the  northward. 

The  slaver  was  a  schooner  of  about  a  hundred  and  fifty 
tons  burden ;  and  in  this  little  vessel  weA  confined  over  three 
hundred  slaves,  in  a  condition  to  which  no  description  could 
do  justice. 

The  officers  and  crew  had  been  sent  on  board  the  corvette ; 
and  here  we  were  left  to  muse  on  the  comforting  assurance  of 
the  Portuguese  captain,  that  his  "cargo"  were  ferocious  and 
untamed  savages  from  the  interior  of  Africa,  who,  so  far  from 
appreciating  our  philanthropic  efforts  to  save  them  from  slavery, 
would  inevitably  massacre  us  all  in  case  they  got  possession 
of  the  vessel,  not  knowing  the  difference  between  one  set  of 
white  masters  and  another.  They  were  all  under  hatches  cov- 
ered with  strong  gratings ;  and  looking  down  upon  them  from 
deck  seemed  like  looking  into  a  certain  place,  which  may  be 
hotter,  but  not  more  uncomfortable.  The  slaves  were  thus 
divided  in  this  malebolge:  the  main  hold  contained  all  the 
adults  of  the  male  sex,  shackled  by  the  leg  to  long  bars  run- 
ning fore  and  aft  in  rows  ;  and  the  women  were  in  the  steerage 
abaft  them,  unshackled,  but  separated  from  the  males  by  a 
strong  bulk-head. 

The  tierces  of  rice  and  water-casks  were  in  the  fore  hold ;  and 
there  were  others  under  the  steerage,  with  a  few  water-casks 
on  duck;  on  which,  abaft  the  foremast,  were  the  slave-coppers 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  13 

for  cooking,  set  in  brick.  On  taking  possession,  I  stationed 
sentinels  at  the  hatchways,  with  orders  to  permit  but  two  per- 
sons to  come  on  deck  at  once,  through  an  aperture  in  the 
grating ;  took  every  possible  precaution  to  guard  against  a  rush 
from  below ;  and  organized  such  other  measures  against  sur- 
prise as  seemed  necessary. 

A  pretty  fresh  sea-breeze  was  blowing,  and  I  had  little  doubt 
of  getting  into  port  on  the  next  morning ;  for  the  low  land  was 
already  in  sight,  and  the  wind  seemed  steady. 

At  nightfall,  however,  the  breeze  gradually  died  away,  and 
at  midnight  had  ceased  entirely;  while  the  absence  of  the 
usual  land-breeze  indicated  that  one  of  those  calms  common 
to  the  African  coast,  and  which  sometimes  last  for  ten  days  or 
a  fortnight,  had  come  upon  us. 

I  had  brought  in  the  boat  only  rations  for  my  men  for  two 
days,  and  no  water  save  that  in  the  boat's  breaker,  —  about 
sixteen  gallons ;  and  now  my  men  reported  that  there  was  but 
a  forty-eight  hours'  supply  of  water  left  in  the  casks  below. 

The  rascally  slaver's  crew  had  started  some  of  the  casks 
before  leaving  the  vessel.  What  was  to  be  done  in  case  the 
calm  lasted?  True,  we  could  get  ashore  in  our  boat;  but 
then  we  should  have  to  abandon  the  prize  and  our  "  liberated" 
captives.  This  was  not  to  be  thought  of :  so  I  went  to  the 
main  hatchway,  and  took  a  look  below.  None  of  us  could  under- 
stand a  word  the  slaves  uttered:  indeed,  they  appeared  hardly 
to  possess  the  organ  of  speech,  so  deeply  guttural  and  barba- 
rous was  their  uncouth  dialect,  —  more  like  the  chattering  of 
baboons  than  any  human  jargon.  Many  of  them  were  fine 
athletic  figures,  curiously  tattooed ;  and  some  had  their  teeth 
filed  to  a  point,  this  serrated  jaw  giving  them  a  most  demoniac 
aspect  when  they  grinned.  As  to  intelligence,  they  evidently 
knew  not  the  difference  between  an  American  gentleman  and 
a  Portuguese  blackguard;  and  the  change  of  masters  they 
regarded  with  supreme  indifference. 
a 


14  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

The  first  day  passed  without  a  breath  of  air.  We  lay  upon 
deck  under  the  awning,  trying  to  keep  cool,  and  sheltered  from 
the  burning  sun ;  the  vessel  swaying  idly  on  the  long  ocean- 
swell,  with  her  sails  flapping,  and  no  sound  to  be  heard  save 
a  groan  from  some  block  aloft,  or  the  jaws  of  the  gaffs  as  they 
swung  around  the  masts.  The  second  day  passed  in  the  same 
way ;  two  slaves  being  still  permitted  on  deck  at  a  time,  and  our 
seamen  walking  about,  and  whistling  for  a  breeze.  On  the 
third  day  our  water  which  was  on  deck  gave  out ;  and,  going 
below,  we  found  that  the  slaves  had  got  at  the  only  remaining 
cask  there,  and  had  emptied  it  also. 

Some  rain  fell,  however,  on  this  day ;  and  we  caught  about 
ten  gallons,  which  I  carefully  placed  under  guard  for  my 
own  men.  Several  waterspouts  formed  in  our  neighborhood, 
threatening  to  deluge  us  with  more  water  than  we  needed; 
thus  adding  a  new  and  sombre  feature  to  the  situation. 

At  the  end  of  the  twenty-four  hours  we  had  no  water  left, 
and  the  slaves  grew  clamorous,  and  reasonably  too ;  for  thirst 
is  the  most  terrible  punishment  one  can  suffer  in  that  heated 
atmosphere,  amid  the  reflections  from  the  glassy  sea.  There 
was  no  alternative,  however,  but  to  continue  to  keep  them  be- 
low ;  for  our  lives  depended  on  retaining  them  in  subjection. 
Our  provisions  had  been  consumed ;  and  we  were  compelled  to 
eat  the  slave-rice,  cooked  with  salt  water,  which  fearfully  in- 
creased our  thirst.  Under  the  cabin-floor,  in  the  run,  I  had 
discovered  a  half-puncheon  of  rum  and  a  box  of  muscovado 
sugar ;  which  prizes  had  been  carefully  watched  to  prevent 
my  men  from  intoxicating  themselves.  I  now  determined  to 
try  the  spirit,  as  the  poor  fellows  must  keep  up  their  animal 
vigor  in  order  to  perform  their  duty :  so  I  detailed  a  trusty 
hand  to  mix  toddies,  and  gave  each  man  a  drink  every  two 
hours. 

This  diet  —  phlogistic,  I  suppose,  it  must  be  termed  —  ap- 
peared to  afford  nourishment  to  the  men;  and  indeed  they 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  15 

soon  looked  eagerly  for  grog-time.  We  speared  a  dolphin  on 
the  fifth  day,  which  afforded  us  all  a  hearty  meal ;  our  satis- 
faction being  increased  by  the  unexpected  discovery  of  a  cask 
of  water. 

The  sailors  by  unanimous  consent  served  it  out  to  the 
slaves,  retaining  none  for  themselves  ;  toddies,  they  said,  being 
quite  sufficient  for  them.  The  fifth  day  passed  uneventfully, 
and  the  sixth  brought  no  promise  of  a  breeze :  we  found,  too, 
that  the  vessel  had  drifted  nearer  the  land ;  and  with  a  glass 
I  could  see  the  cocoa-palm  trees,  and  the  surf  breaking  on  the 
beach. 

About  two  in  the  afternoon,  while  taking  a  nap  on  deck,  I 
was  aroused  by  a  tumult  in  the  hold ;  and,  running  forward, 
found  that  the  bulk-head  between  the  men  and  women  had 
been  broken  down.  Some  of  the  slaves  had  slipped  their  irons ; 
and  all  were  mixed  up  in  dire  confusion,  yelling,  screaming, 
and  fighting  like  demons.  They  had  conspired  to  break  down 
the  bulk-head ;  and,  having  got  access  to  the  rum,  had  just 
commenced  an  orgy,  which  transformed  them  into  incarnate 
fiends. 

We  hastily  recovered  possession  of  the  steerage  and  cabin, 
and  removed  the  rum  to  the  deck ;  sent  a  strong  guard  below 
with  cutlasses  and  pistols,  which  soon  restored  order;  and, 
having  separated  the  sexes  again,  replaced  the  bulk-head. 

The  fight  had  lasted  about  half  an  hour,  and  several  slaves 
had  been  killed,  whose  bodies  were  brought  on  deck,  and 
launched  overboard.  We  then  drenched  all  the  blacks  with 
bucketfuls  of  salt  water,  which  seemed  to  assuage  their  thirst 
in  some  degree.  On  the  seventh  day  the  sun  rose  clear  and 
calm  as  usual,  but  in  half  an  hour  retired  into  a  dense  cloud ; 
and  then  I  knew  that  our  deliverance  was  at  hand.  So  it 
proved,  for  a  fine  land-breeze  sprang  up,  succeeded,  by  a  glorious 
sea-breeze  ;  and  we  sailed  up  to  our  anchorage  in  fine  style. 
On  landing,  I  proceeded  to  the  residence  of  the  consul,  who 
took  charge  of  the  schooner  and  her  lading. 


16  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

Although  our  troubles  were  over,  those  of  the  blacks  were 
not;  for  said  a  Portuguese  trader  to  me,  "What  for  you 
Yankees  take  so  much  trouble  about  these  niggers  ?  They 
no  better  off  than  they  were  before.  Suppose  they  no  go  to 
the  West  Indies  to  work,  then  they  get  eaten  up  here  in  Afri- 
ca;" meaning  that  all  the  efforts  of  our  philanthropic  gov- 
ernment do  not  alleviate  the  condition  of  the  native  African. 
While  on  the  coast,  I  had  occasion  to  see  that  these  efforts  are 
generally  made  in  the  wrong  direction  ;  and  all  of  them  avail 
nothing  toward  preventing  evil.  In  my  opinion,  extensive 
colonization  is  the  only  practical  mode  of  benefiting  "be- 
nighted Africa." 

At  last  we  hove  to  off  Cape  Mesurado  for  the  last  time  before 
leaving  the  coast.  I  went  on  shore  to  make  arrangements  for 
the  homeward  voyage ;  but  was  not  destined  to  escape  entirely 
from  this  accursed  place,  as  we  were  swamped  on  the  bar  in 
returning  to  the  ship  in  a  large  heavily-laden  cutter. 

There  were  twenty  persons  in  the  cutter  altogether ;  and, 
finding  myself  in  the  water  in  a  heavy  surf,  my  first  impulse 
was  to  seize  an  oar  which  floated  near  me.  My  situation  was 
still  full  of  peril ;  for  all  around  I  could  see  the  dorsal  fins  of 
huge  sharks,  always  cruising  in  these  localities,  gliding  omi- 
nously through  the  water,  and  often  quite  close  to  me :  but  I 
struck  out  boldly,  and  made  all  the  noise  I  could  without 
exhausting  myself,  until  boats  from  the  landing-place  at 
Monrovia  came  to  our  assistance.  Our  danger  seemed  an  age 
in  duration ;  but,  in  fact,  we  had  been  only  three-quarters  of 
an  hour  in  the  water.  Only  fourteen  persons,  including  my- 
self, were  saved  from  drowning  and  the  sharks. 


III. 

IN  1832,  having  passed  my  examination  for  lieutenant,  I 
sailed  in  the  frigate  "  Constitution  "  for  France ;  whence  we 
brought  home  Mr.  Livingston,  our  minister  to  the  court  of 
Louis  Philippe,  who  had  successfully  negotiated  a  treaty  with 
the  French  Government,  allowing  our  spoliation  claims  under 
the  Berlin  and  Milan  decrees.  We  went  to  sea  again  immedi- 
ately, bound  for  the  Mediterranean,  where  our  vessel  was  to  be 
the  flag-ship  of  Com.  Elliott. 

I  served  for  several  years  on  this  station  in  different  ships, 
and,  during  the  time,  visited  almost  every  port  in  that  classic 
sea,  besides  making  a  trip  to  the  Baltic.  I  always  look 
back  to  this  period  of  my  life  with  pleasure  ;  for  I  had  many 
fine  opportunities  of  seeing  places  and  persons  of  historic 
interest.  I  will  endeavor  briefly  to  describe  an  episode  which 
came  within  my  experience  during  this  part  of  my  naval  life. 

One  fine  evening,  in  the  short  summer  season  which  succeeds 
the  rigorous  winter  of  the  Baltic  Sea,  our  ship  entered  the 
harbor  of  Cronstadt,  anchoring  in  that  part  of  it  allotted  to 
ships-of-war.  The  sails  were  furled,  and  every  thing  made 
snug,  as  is  customary  in  our  ships  after  entering  a  harbor,  when 
a  government  barge  was  reported  approaching  the  ship.  Soon 
it  came  alongside,  and  a  Russian  officer  mounted  to  the  deck. 
Ostensibly  his  visit  was  one  of  courtesy ;  and,  in  the  usual 
manner,  he  tendered  the  facilities  of  the  port  and  dockyard  to 
our  commander. 

2*  17 


18  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

While  the  officer  was  engaged  in  the  cabin,  several  of  the 
boat's  crew  ascended  to  the  deck,  and  among  them  the  cox- 
swain, a  tall  man  in  the  dark  green  uniform  of  that  humble 
office,  and  bearing  no  other  insignia  of  rank  than  the  silver 
chevrons  of  a  petty  officer.  This  person  walked  round  the 
ship,  descending  to  the  main  deck,  where  he  minutely  inspected 
the  battery  and  other  warlike  appurtenances.  He  evidently 
wished  to  remain  unobserved ;  but  his  imposing  stature  and 
noble  air  did  not  fail  to  command  attention. 

Our  old  North-Sea  pilot  at  last  observed  this  incognito 
seaman,  and  reported  to  the  officer  of  the  deck  that  a  person- 
age of  the  highest  rank  in  Russia  was  on  board ;  and  the  cap- 
tain was  immediately  apprised  of  his  presence  and  station. 
Our  commanding  officer  at  once  comprehended  and  respected 
the  wishes  of  the  unknown,  but  directed  such  preparations  to 
be  made  quietly  as  are  customary  when  a  personage  of  his 
condition  is  received. 

In  due  time  the  Russian  officer  came  on  the  quarter-deck : 
his  boat  was  manned  at  his  request;  and,  the  tall  stranger  hav- 
ing taken  his  place  at  the  helm,  the  boat  shoved  off  from  the 
ship. 

As  soon  as  this  was  done,  the  shrill  call  and  hoarse  summons 
of  the  boatswain  was  heard :  a  few  active  topmen  sprang  aloft, 
the  life-lines  were  rove  and  the  yards  manned,  and  the 
thunder  of  our  thirty-twos  burst  forth  in  an  imperial  salute, 
the  Russian  standard  at  the  main.  All  the  ships-of-war 
around  us,  aroused  by  the  report,  instantly  began  their  prepa- 
rations ;  and,  before  the  reverberations  of  our  guns  had  ceased, 
their  yards  were  manned,  and  their  cannon  and  those  of  the 
castle  prolonged  the  deafening  acclaim.  The  barge  lay  for  a 
few  moments  abreast  of  our  ship.  The  tall  coxswain  rose  from 
his  seat  at  the  tiller,  and  gracefully  lifted  his  cap  in  acknowl- 
edgment. He  was  Nicolas,  Czar  of  all  the  Russias. 

The  czar  treated  our  captain  and  all  the  officers  with  distin- 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  19 

guished  hospitality  during  our  stay;  and  for  a  fortnight  we  had 
our  fill  of  visits  to  St.  Petersburg  and  its  vicinity,  with  balls, 
parties,  dinners,  and  fetes  of  all  kinds,  intermingled  with  the 
opera  and  reviews,  and  concluding  with  a  reception  at  the 
Palace  of  Zarsko  Zelo.  After  the  lapse  of  so  many  years,  I 
still  remember  the  Emperor  Nicolas  as  the  handsomest  man 
I  ever  saw  in  any  country,  and  the  most  perfect  embodiment 
of  the  regal  power  and  dignity  that  the  imagination  can  pic- 
ture. Hamlet  describes  his  appearance  exactly.  In  his  impe- 
rial palace  he  acted  his  part  with  courteous  dignity,  and  moved 
through  those  courtly  halls  with  the  lofty  bearing  of  a  king 
and  the  quiet  ease  of  a  well-bred  gentleman.  Like  Saul,  he 
was  greater  than  other  men,  and  at  a  ball  could  be  seen  tow- 
ering over  the  throng  a  full  head  and  shoulders  above  men  of 
even  lofty  stature.  At  the  review  he  was  "locked  up  in 
steel,"  wearing  the  uniform  of  the  cuirassiers  of  the  guard;  and, 
mounted  upon  a  powerful  black  charger,  he  rode,  as  heroic  a 
figure  as  was  ever  imagined  by  Homer.  The  imperial  family 
were  also  remarkable  for  their  personal  beauty,  inheriting  it 
from  both  parents ;  for  the  empress  was  a  most  lovely  and 
amiable  person :  and  this  distinction  still  clings  to  the  house 
of  Romanoff. 

"  There  is  a  black  sheep  in  every  flock ; "  and  this  one  was 
not  exempt  from  the  application  of  the  proverb.  Constantine, 
the  son  of  Paul,  the  brother  of  the  czar,  was  in  appearance,  as 
in  other  things,  an  unmistakable  Calmuck.  The  grand  duke, 
however,  entertained  us  most  hospitably  at  his  magnificent 
chateau  near  St.  Petersburg.  At  this  interview  a  Polish  offi- 
cer speaking  French  and  English  acted  as  interpreter;  for, 
unlike  most  Russians  of  station  and  education,  Constantine 
spoke  nothing  but  his  own  language.  This  officer  seemed 
high  in  the  esteem  and  confidence  of  the  grand  duke ;  but 
what  was  our  astonishment,  and  the  indignation  of  our  com- 
mander, when,  after  we  had  got  well  out  of  the  Baltic,  we  saw 


20  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

this  audacious  Pole  appear  in  the  midst  of  our  crew  as  if 
dropped  from  the  sky !  The  poor  man,  in  the  disguise  of  a 
seaman,  had  been  secreted  in  the  depths  of  the  cable  tier,  and 
nourished  there  by  some  of  his  countrymen,  musicians  and 
marines,  in  pure  commiseration,  ever  since  we  left  Cronstadt. 

It  was  at  first  decided  to  return,  and  deliver  up  this  fugi- 
tive, as  the  spiriting-away  of  a  subject  of  the  emperor  might 
have  led  to  serious  diplomatic  complications ;  but  finally  we 
kept  on,  and  the  Pole  remained  on  board.  One  day  I  called  to 
this  person,  and  asked  him  why  he  so  earnestly  desired  to 
escape  from  Russia. 

"Sir,"  said  he,  "that  question  is  easily  answered  in  one 
word,  —  Siberia!"  —  "But,"  said  I,  "we  saw  you  enjoying  a 
respectable  military  rank,  and  apparently  possessing  the  confi- 
dence and  esteem  of  the  brother  of  the  emperor,  as  well  as  an 
important  post  in  his  household ;  all  of  which  you  have  sud- 
denly given  up,  and  are  here  as  a  fugitive,  without  money, 
friends,  or  any  prospect  for  the  future." 

"  Ah ! "  returned  the  Pole,  "  you  know  not  Constantino  or 
his  tiger-like  nature.  With  him  there  is  no  such  sentiment 
as  friendship,  especially  towards  one  of  my  race  and  nation. 
His  crimes  against  my  unhappy  country  call  loudly  for  retri- 
bution from  Heaven,  as  you  must  have  heard :  and,  although  I 
never  experienced  aught  but  kindness  and  favors  from  him, 
I  felt  that  any  moment,  and  for  the  most  trifling  cause,  I  might 
feel  the  heavy  weight  of  his  displeasure ;  while  the  consequences 
would  be  to  me,  as  to  others  I  have  known,  of  the  most  terri- 
ble character.  It  is  not  my  unfortunate  countrymen  alone 
who  tremble  at  the  name  of  Siberia :  the  Russians  themselves 
of  every  class  never  hear  the  word  spoken  without  a  thrill  of 
anxiety,  and  a  glance  about  them  to  make  sure  that  they  are 
still  in  their  own  homes." 


IV. 


IBERIA,"  continued  the  Pole,  "  comprises  all  that  vast 
and  desolate  tract  of  country  that  stretches  from  those 
northern  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  lined  with  eternal  glaciers, 
beneath  which  dive  rivers  as  large  as  the  Volga,  to  the  illimi- 
table steppes  which  terminate  in  the  rugged  range  of  the  Altai. 
On  the  east  it  is  bounded  by  Behring's  Straits ;  and,  towards 
Europe,  by  the  nearly  impenetrable  forests  of  the  Ural,  guard- 
ed by  the  fierce  Bashkirs  and  Calmucks.  Its  soil  consists  of 
gravelly  plains,  interspersed  with  marshes,  from  whose  sparse 
mosses  and  lichens  the  few  reindeer  draw  their  scanty  subsist- 
ence. 

"  In  the  southern  parts  of  this  dreary  tract  may  be  seen  at 
long  intervals  the  wretched  '  yourts '  of  the  miserable  inhabit- 
ants and  the  rude  huts  of  the  poor  exiles,  who  labor  hard  to 
raise  a  few  vegetables  to  keep  them  from  starving  during  the 
long  winters.  From  the  first  of  August  to  April  the  nights 
are  twenty-two  hours  long,  and  the  temperature  twenty  degrees 
below  zero.  For  the  succeeding  four  months  the  sun  never 
sets :  it  is  necessary  that  his  rays  should  be  incessantly  poured 
upon  the  indurated  soil  in  order  to  ripen  its  scanty  produc- 
tions. 

"  Into  this  dreadful  gulf  the  Russian  Government  throws 
pele^mele  with  the  infected  masses  of  their  own  criminals  the 
best  blood  of  Poland.  The  chains  leave  St.  Petersburg  and 
Moscow  daily,  regardless  of  the  severity  of  the  weather.  Men 

21 


22  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

and  women  alike  are  hurried  along  by  their  savage  Cossack 
guards  to  the  inhuman  solitude  they  are  destined  to  people, 
and,  if  necessary,  urged  on  with  the  stick  and  the  knout. 
Once  daily,  and  on  Sundays  and  feast-days,  there  is  a  halt 
at  wretched  sheds  provided  for  the  purpose,  twenty-five  versts 
(fifteen  miles)  distant  from  each  other. 

"  In  these  they  are  huddled  together,  without  even  straw  to 
sleep  upon  :  and,  should  these  shelters  be  occupied  by  the  sol- 
diers of  the  czar,  the  chain  sleeps  beneath  the  canopy  of 
heaven  ;  for  they  cannot  be  expected  to  share  the  quarters  of 
the  defenders  of  holy  Russia.  Their  rations  are  just  enougli 
to  keep  them  from  starvation ;  consisting  daily  of  a  handful  of 
buck-wheat  flour  and  oats,  a  few  vegetables,  and  a  loaf  of  sticky 
black  rye-bread,  powdered  with  salt,  cooked  by  the  exiles 
themselves.  If  they  dare  to  complain  of  insufficient  fare,  they 
are  treated  to  a  hors  d'oeuvre  of  seasoned  ash  or  oak,  admin- 
istered on  their  backs  and  shoulders.  The  commander  of  the 
escort  is  the  sole  judge  of  the  quality  and  quantity  of  the 
victuals  issued  to  the  chain.  If  it  pleases  him  to  economize 
them,  selling  the  portion  saved,  for  his  own  profit,  or  if  half 
the  chain  die  on  the  road  from  hunger,  it  is  nobody's  business 
to  examine  into  the  cause  of  the  mortality.  The  dead  are 
silent ;  and  the  living  take  care  to  forget  the  circumstance  in 
Russia,  where  an  imprudent  word  may  be  fatal. 

"The  journey  from  St.  Petersburg  to  Tobolsk  is  about 
twenty-two  hundred  miles  ;  and  is  accomplished  by  the  chain 
in  four  and  a  half  months,  at  the  rate  of  about  sixteen  miles 
daily. 

"  So  long  a  march  is  not  executed  without  accidents  and 
sickness :  so  there  are  hospitals,  so  called,  on  the  route.  They 
are  mere  open  barns,  built  of  logs,  infested  by  the  filthiest 
vermin,  presided  over  by  a  person  called  '  doctor,'  who  is  either 
an  empiric  or  a  barber,  at  a  salary  of  twenty  roubles  (twelve 
dollars)  per  annum.  When  a  patient  dies,  his  body  is  envel- 


KEEL   AND  SADDLE.  23 

oped  in  a  coarse  winding-sheet,  or  laid  naked  in  a  rude  pine- 
coffin,  which  is  drawn  over  the  snow  to  a  place  where  the  bodies 
of  men  and  beasts  are  together  interred  :  a  shallow  grave  is 
dug  in  the  hardened  soil ;  or,  if  the  soil  be  frozen  too  hard,  the 
corpse  is  left  there  in  the  snow  to  await  a  thaw.  There  is  no 
religious  ceremony  ;  for  what  need  of  prayers  has  an  exile  ? 
He  was  banished  for  offending  the  czar;  and  therefore,  by  the 
Greek  Church,  is  held  to  be  in  a  state  of  mortal  sin,  of  which 
he  can  be  purged  only  in  hell.  If  the  deceased  be  a  Pole,  he 
is  perhaps  thrust  through  a  hole  in  the  ice  of  the  neighboring 
river.  The  Russians  reserve  all  their  hatred,  fury,  and  caprice 
to  vent  upon  the  '  Polak.' 

"  Their  sovereign  loves  not  Poland ;  the  Pole  exasperates 
the  czar :  so  let  us  torture  and  even  kill  him,  should  he  fall 
into  our  hands ;  and  these  ferocious  savages  act  accordingly. 

"  During  the  long  march  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  days,  it 
sometimes  happens  that  some  of  the  boldest  escape,  often  car- 
rying with  them  the  arms  of  a  soldier  of  the  escort.  Flight  is 
not  difficult :  but  it  is  not  easy  to  get  out  of  the  country,  or  to 
subsist  in  the  trackless  forest ;  and,  if  any  succeed  in  doing  so, 
it  is  only  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Prussian  gens  d  'armes, 
who  instantly  return  the  unhappy  fugitive  to  their  Russian 
allies.  If  recaptured  by  the  latter,  the  exile  has  his  flesh  cut 
into  ribbons  by  the  sharp,  angular  lash  of  the  terrible  knout. 
Should  he  survive  the  fearful  punishment,  his  heel  is  pierced, 
and  an  iron  ring  inserted  between  the  bone  and  the  Achilles 
tendon.  He  is  then  sent  to  end  his  days  in  a  mine,  and  to 
ponder  there  over  the  paternal  justice  of  his  monarch  and  fa- 
ther. But  the  runaway  exile  usually  sells  his  life  dearly,  know- 
ing the  price  that  will  be  exacted  for  it. 

"  To  recount  all  the  horrors  of  this  fearful  transit  would  be 
to  disgust  3rou  with  your  species ;  and  I  shall  not  further  weary 
you  with  the  loathsome  details. 

"  Should  any  one,  actuated  by  a  sentiment  of  generous  pity, 


24  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

denounce  all  these  atrocities  to  the  emperor,  he  himself  would 
be  denounced,  and  his  ruin  effected,  for  conspiring  against  the 
state,  the  czar,  and  religion.  He  would  immediately  be 
knouted,  to  give  him  a  lesson  of  prudence,  silence,  and  discre- 
tion. The  czar  is  not  ignorant  of  the  facts  :  but  in  Russia 
one  may  see  every  thing,  hear  every  thing,  yet  beware  of  ex- 
pressing a  single  sentiment  of  surprise  or  pity ;  for  it  is  the 
crime  of  lese-majeste. 

"  Upon  their  arrival  at  Tobolsk,  the  Pole  and  those  destined 
for  the  mines  are  immediately  sent  to  their  place  of  exile,  in 
order  to  get  them  at  once  as  far  as  possible  from  the  frontier. 
The  rest  —  the  bandits,  assassins,  poisoners,  and  other  felons  — 
are  set  free,  with  leave  for  a  fortnight  to  rest  from  the  fatigue 
of  the  journey :  after  which  they  receive  a  route-ticket,  and  a 
leathern  purse  containing  about  eighty  cents  in  copper  coin  ; 
and  are  obliged  to  go  to  their  destination  without  any  further 
directions,  and  to  find  the  master  to  whom  they  are  allotted. 

"But  the  mines,  — those  deep  and  darksome  gulfs  in  which 
men  are  forever  plunged,  never  again  to  behold  the  light  of 
day,  and  doomed  to  spend  their  lives  in  digging  coal,  —  who 
shall  tell  of  the  anguish,  the  misery,  of  these  abominable  sepul- 
chres, in  which  the  unfortunates,  consigned  to  a  living  death, 
toil  continually,  until  completely  worn  out,  their  joints  para- 
lyzed, and  their  members  rendered  powerless  by  neuralgia  ? 

"  Those  who  are  allotted  to  service  are  placed  with  some 
colonial  master  who  exercises  a  profession  or  business,  or  culti- 
vates the  soil.  He  may  be  a  humane  person  :  if  so,  so  much 
the  better ;  for  the  unfortunate  may  expect  a  sort  of  relative 
happiness.  Should  he  be  a  cruel  one,  however,  so  much  the 
worse  for  the  poor  soul ;  for  all  hell's  torments  heaped  upon  a 
single  head  would  not  be  the  measure  of  the  sufferings  and 
anguish  which  he  must  endure.  The  government  does  not 
occupy  itself  with  such  details,  nor  does  it  protect  its  subjects 
from  cruelty. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  25 

"  True,  there  are  plenty  of  '  ukases  ; '  but,  though  emanat- 
ing from  the  brain  of  the  czar,  they  are  never  executed,  seldom 
even  read.  If  the  exile  be  a  Pole  or  a  Georgian,  and  conse- 
quently a  Catholic,  he  is  trebly  unfortunate ;  for  he  has  a  halter 
permanently  around  his  neck.  The  master  is  bound  to  pro- 
vide food,  lodging,  and  clothing  for  his  servant,  and  to  deposit 
with  the  golowa  the  sum  of  sixty  cents  monthly,  which  repre- 
sents his  pay ;  certainly  not  much.  For  the  time  of  his  ap- 
prenticeship of  hard  servitude,  he  must  give  up  the  most 
modest,  the  most  inoffensive  enjoyments,  —  even  tobacco, 
unless  it  is  bestowed  upon  him  in  charity.  Charity  indeed ! 
that  is  a  coin  uncurrent  in  Russia.  By  a  strange  contradiction, 
the  government,  which  treats  the  human  race  worse  than  the 
brute  creation,  and  to  which  the  life  of  a  man  is  worth  no  more 
than  that  of  a  crow,  exerts  every  effort  to  people  this  vast  soli- 
tude, called  Siberia.  It  tolerates  neither  celibacy  nor  widow- 
hood, permitting  the  departed  of  neither  sex  to  live  isolated. 
'  It  is  not  good  for  man  to  live  alone,'  says  Holy  Writ.  '  Man 
must  work,  and  people  the  earth,'  adds  the  czar.  Upon  Siberian 
soil  the  exile  dons  a  new  skin :  he  loses  his  name,  and  is  re- 
baptized  ;  he  is  a  new  being,  and  is  expected  to  found  a  new 
family.  To  that  which  may  be  left  behind  him  he  is  dead 
and  buried.  Should  he  have  property,  it  is  taken  by  the 
State,  to  spare  his  heirs  the  trouble  of  a  division ;  or,  if  his 
parents  have  any,  his  portion  is  seized  by  the  same  paternal 
authority.  Reconcile  these  monstrosities  if  you  can. 

"  But  one  saving  grace  remains :  which  is,  that,  in  case  his 
wife  and  children  solicit  the  favor  of  sharing  his  banishment, 
they  are  permitted  to  do  so  on  condition  of  submitting  to  the 
penal  regulations  which  govern  the  Siberian  population  ;  of 
which  I  will  spare  you  the  recital,  for  fear  of  their  giving  you 
a  nightmare. 

"  To  proceed.  The  condemned  person  works  for  three  years, 
and  at  the  end  of  that  time  enters  into  possession  of  about 

3 


26  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

twenty-five  dollars  of  your  money,  with  which  he  buys  a  cow 
and  a  few  articles  of  prime  necessity,  clears  a  few  acres  of 
land  allotted  to  him,  builds  a  log-hut,  and  becomes,  in  his  turn, 
a  master  colonist. 

"  As  to  the  manner  in  which  the  women  convicts  are  treated, 
I  shrink  from  the  task  of  describing  it,  and  beg  to  leave  it  to 
your  imagination.  Suffice  it  to  say,  they  are  compelled  to 
submit  to  the  same  rules  with  regard  to  marriage  that  are 
imposed  on  men ;  and  these  enforced  unions  are  made  with 
scarcely  more  respect  than  is  usually  paid  to  the  coupling  of 
animals. 

"  As  elsewhere  in  Russia,  the  government  endeavors  to  real- 
ize with  sanguinary  fury  the  fundamental  maxim  of  the  first 
Nicolas,  —  '  Political  unity  by  means  of  religious  unity.' 
There  is  need  for  no  other  belief  than  that  foul  and  ignoble 
orthodoxy  on  which  is  pinned  the  faith  of  the  Russian  clergy  : 
so  the  Pole  is  urged  to  become  a  convert  to  the  Greek  religion. 
Should  he  refuse,  all  hell's  torments  are  discharged  upon  his 
devoted  head  ;  and  when,  breathless  and  lost,  the  unfortunate 
succumbs  under  the  superhuman  griefs  and  pains  of  the  knout, 
the  stick,  and  the  whip,  his  executioners  cry  to  him,  '  Embrace 
the  religion  of  our  father  the  czar,  and  all  thy  punishment 
shall  cease  ! '  Should  the  poor  creature  assent,  he  is  instantly 
immersed  in  the  next  brook  or  pool ;  and,  lo  !  a  convert  to  the 
Greek  Church. 

"  If  I  ever  dared  to  allude  to  all  the  ingeniously  fiendish 
tortures  inflicted  upon  my  countrymen  during  my  forced  resi- 
dence in  Russia,  I  was  met  with  the  remark,  '  They  complain 
not  of  their  fate,  but  pass,  without  much  regret,  from  their 
easy  but  harassed  condition  in  their  native  country  to  this  life 
of  labor,  fatigue,  and  servitude,  which  may  not  be  so  painful 
as  you  imagine.'  All  Russians  have  the  strange  and  servile 
habit  of  praising  all  the  acts  of  their  autocrat ;  which  indicates 
an  utter  absence  of  moral  sense,  and  an  impenetrable  thickness 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  27 

of  skin  to  which  that  of  a  rhinoceros  is  hut  the  thinnest  paper. 
Every  other  consideration  must  he  ignored  when  it  is  a  ques- 
tion of  the  worship  of  the  great  national  fetish. 

"  And  now,"  said  the  Pole,  "  that  I  have  given  you  hut  a 
partial  account  of  the  dreadful  fate  which  constantly  menaced 
me  in  Russia,  can  you  wonder  I  should  wish  to  escape  from  a 
country  in  which  such  crimes  can  be  committed  with  impunity, 
and  from  a  doom  which  has  heen  meted  out  to  so  many  of  my 
countrymen  ?  No  !  I  know  you  do  not ;  although  your  own 
free  and  enlightened  nation  has  always  had  a  sort  of  sympathy 
with  Russia,  the  ground  for  which  is,  I  shrewdly  believe,  that 
you  expect  to  divide  the  world  between  you  by  and  by.  While 
you  are  subduing  a  mighty  continent  by  the  enterprise  and 
energy  of  your  people,  Russia  is  imitating  your  example  in 
Europe  and  Asia;  and,  by  means  diametrically  opposite,  silently 
accomplishing  a  similar  purpose. 

"  Truly  the  ways  of  the  Almighty  are  inscrutable,  and  we, 
his  creatures,  but  the  passive,  involuntary  means  of  their 
fulfilment." 


V. 


REGOEY  XVI.  was  pontiff  at  the  period  of  my  first 
\JT  visit  to  Rome,  during  the  Mediterranean  cruise  I  have 
referred  to ;  and,  of  the  famous  personages  then  residing  in  the 
Eternal  City,  the  one  I  most  desired  to  see  was  the  mother  of 
the  modern  Caesar,  Napoleon  I.  Madame  Mere,  or  Madame 
Letitia,  as  she  was  usually  called,  being  requested  to  grant  an 
interview  to  a  small  party  of  American  officers,  of  which  I  was 
one,  graciously  assented,  and  fixed  a  day  for  the  reception  at 
the  palace  she  occupied. 

Repairing  thither  at  the  hour  appointed,  after  a  short 
detention  in  a  spacious  ante-chamber  we  were  ushered  into 
one  of  those  lofty  saloons  common  to  Italian  palaces,  hand- 
somely, not  gorgeously  furnished,  and  opening  by  spacious 
windows  into  a  beautiful  garden.  There,  with  her  back 
towards  the  subdued  light  from  the  windows,  we  saw  an 
elderly  lady  reclining  on  a  sofa  in  a  graceful  attitude 
of  repose.  She  was  attended  by  three  ladies,  who  all  re- 
mained standing  during  our  visit.  In  the  recess  of  one  of 
the  windows,  on  a  tall  pedestal  of  antique  marble,  stood  a  mag- 
nificent bust  of  the  emperor;  while  upon  the  walls  of  the 
saloon,  in  elegant  frames,  were  hung  the  portraits  of  her  chil- 
dren, all  of  whom  had  been  kings  and  queens,  —  of  royal 
rank,  though  not  of  royal  lineage.  Madame  Letitia  received 
us  with  perfect  courtesy,  without  rising  from  her  reclining 
position ;  motioning  us  gracefully  to  seats  with  a  polite  gesture 

28 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  29 

of  a  hand  and  arm  still  of  noble  contour  and  dazzling  white- 
ness. It  was  easy  to  see  where  the  emperor  got  his  small 
white  hands,  of  which  he  was  so  vain,  as  we  are  told ;  while 
the  classic  regularity  of  his  well-known  features  was  clearly 
traceable  in  the  lineaments  of  the  lady  before  us.  Her  head 
was  covered  with  a  cap  of  lace ;  and  her  somewhat  haughty 
but  expressive  face,  beaming  with  intelligence,  was  framed  in 
clustering  curls  a  I  'antique.  Her  eyes  were  brilliant,  large, 
and  piercing  (I  think  they  could  hardly  have  been  more  so 
in  her  youth) ;  and  the  lines  of  her  mouth  and  chin  gave  an 
expression  of  firmness,  courage,  and  determination  to  a  fine 
physiognomy  perfectly  in  character  with  the  historical  ante- 
cedents and  attributes  of  Letitia  Ramolini.  Of  the  rest  of  her 
dress  we  saw  but  little,  her  bust  being  covered  by  a  lace  hand- 
kerchief crossed  over  the  bosom,  and  her  dark  silk  robe  par- 
tially concealed  by  a  superb  cashmere  shawl  thrown  over  the 
lower  part  of  her  person.  She  opened  the  conversation  by 
making  some  complimentary  remark  about  our  country ;  asking 
after  her  son  Joseph,  who  resided  then  at  Bordentown,  N.  J. ; 
and  seemed  pleased  at  receiving  news  of  him  from  one  of  our 
party,  who  had  seen  him  not  long  before.  She  asked  this 
officer  whether  the  "king"  (le  roi  d'Espagne)  still  resembled 
the  portrait  in  her  possession,  which  was  a  very  fine  one ;  and 
upon  our  asking  permission  to  examine  the  bust  of  the  em- 
peror, the  greatest  of  her  sons,  told  us  that  it  was  considered  a 
fine  work  of  art,  it  being,  indeed,  from  the  chisel  of  Canova ; 
adding,  I  fancied  with  a  little  sigh  of  melancholy,  "  II  resemble 
beaucoup  a  1'empereur."  After  some  further  commonplaces, 
she  signified  in  the  most  delicate  and  dignified  manner,  more 
by  looks  than  by  words,  addressed  to  the  ladies  of  our  party, 
referring  to  her  rather  weak  state  of  health,  that  the  interview 
should  terminate ;  and,  having  made  our  obeisance,  we  left 
her. 

I  may  be  excused  for  making  an  exception  to  my  general 
3* 


30  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

rule  of  silence  with  reference  to  the  marvel  of  antiquity  and 
art  in  Borne  in  the  case  of  the  Coliseum,  of  which  every 
writer  is  expected  to  say  something. 

Rome  having  become  mistress  of  the  then  known  world,  and 
having  imposed  her  yoke  on  every  foreign  nation,  rendering 
all  tributary  to  her,  erected  this  vast  edifice,  capable  of  seating 
a  hundred  thousand  persons,  as  the  principal  place  of  amuse- 
ment of  her  citizens.  The  Romans  had  ceased  to  labor  for 
their  subsistence:  they  inhabited  a  city  built  entirely  of 
marble,  through  which  they  idly  sauntered,  bent  on  pleasure, 
or  the  enjoyment  of  the  baths  they  had  constructed  with  such 
luxurious  taste  and  lavish  expense.  Their  chief  excitement 
was  found  in  the  bloody  scenes  of  the  arena  ;  and  their  passion 
for  this  could  be  gratified  only  by  the  wholesale  slaughter  of 
the  brute  creation  and  the  murder  of  the  human  species.  The 
terrible  appetite  grew  by  what  it  fed  on,  until  tamer  diversions 
seemed  insipid ;  and  its  indulgence  produced  those  storied 
monsters  of  antiquity  who  disgraced  humanity.  It  was  in  the 
decadence  of  the  empire  that  this  great  amphitheatre  arose, 
and  soon  found  imitations  in  every  province. 

Christianity  came  in  to  divert  it  from  its  original  use ;  and 
we  have  still  before  us,  as  a  lesson,  the  mighty  ruins,  which 
seem  destined  to  endure  to  the  end  of  time. 

While  reflecting  after  this  fashion  in  the  great  amphitheatre, 
I  turned  to  our  first  lieutenant,  and  asked  him  for  his  views  on 
the  Coliseum. 

The  worthy  officer,  who  was  entirely  devoted  to  his  profes- 
sion, —  a  martinet  on  the  subject  of  clean  decks,  combings,  lad- 
ders, brass  railings,  and  belaying-pins,  —  replied  curtly  to  my 
inquiry,  waking  up  from  his  revery,  "  Well,  I  was  just  think- 
ing what  a  fine  lot  of  '  holy-stones  and  bibles '  I  could  get  out 
here,  if  I  could  only  transport  them  aboard  the  ship." 

A  strange  event  happened  during  this  cruise,  while  we  lay 
at  Messina. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  31 

An  English  tourist,  in  search  of  the  picturesque,  was  taken 
prisoner  by  the  brigands  'of  the  Abruzzi  in  Calabria.  The 
British  consul  at  Reggio,  having  entered  into  communication 
with  the  chief  of  the  robbers, — it  would  have  been  useless  to 
ask  help  from  the  Neapolitan  Government,  —  inquired  what 
sum  was  required  for  his  ransom.  Ten  thousand  ducats,  was 
the  answer.  The  consul,  who  had  come  in  person  under  a 
safeguard  from  the  brigand  chief  to  the  conference,  could  not 
help  an  exclamation  of  surprise  at  the  enormity  of  the  de- 
mand. He  abruptly  broke  off  the  negotiation,  and  sent  to 
Malta  for  a  ship  of  war  to  intimidate  the  brigands.  In  a 
short  time  his  Majesty's  ship  "  Barham,"  of  sixty  guns,  arrived 
at  Reggio ;  and  at  last  the  troops  of  King  Ferdinand  took  the 
field  against  the  robbers. 

The  brigand  chief  was  equal  to  the  emergency.  He  disap- 
peared from  the  neighborhood  with  his  prize,  taking  refuge  in 
the  inaccessible  defiles  of  the  mountains.  The  hostile  demon- 
strations of  the  consul  having  failed,  he  again  sought  an 
interview  with  the  chief,  and  re-opened  his  negotiations. 
"Now,  amico  mio"  said  the  consul,  "tell  me  what  ransom 
you  really  mean  to  take  for  your  prisoner?  "  —  "  Twenty  thou- 
sand ducats,"  replied  the  chief;  "  and  it  is  my  last  word.  Let 
me  have  my  answer  soon  ;  for  provisions  are  scarce  with  us, 
and  it  costs  something  to  keep  an  Englishman.  Above  all, 
take  care  to  make  no  more  hostile  attempts  against  us  ;  for,  in 
that  case,  the  ransom  will  be  trebled." 

The  consul  saw  the  point ;  and  after  some  time  it  was  agreed 
that  the  Neapolitan  Government  should  pay  one  half  the 
amount,  the  British  Government  paying  the  other.  Word 
was  sent  to  the  chief  that  his  proposition  was  acceded  to,  and 
a  time  and  place  agreed  upon  for  the  redemption  of  the  cap- 
tive and  the  payment  of  the  ransom.  The  high  contracting 
parties  met  at  the  rendezvous,  the  consul,  as  before,  accom- 
panied by  a  strong  guard ;  but  the  robber  chief  came  alone. 


32  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

The  prisoner  was  delivered  up,  and  the  money  counted  out 
to  the  brigand ;  but  the  consul  could  not  help  remarking,  in 
some  excitement,  upon  the  magnitude  of  the  amount  of  the 
sum  demanded.  "  Abbiate  pacienza,  Signer  Consule  "  ("  Be 
calm,  sir"),  said  the  brigand:  "it  is  yourself  that  fixed  the 
sum."  —  "  How  I  ?  "  —  "  Certainly,  sir.  You  remember,  last 
year,  a  ship  caine  to  Naples  from  England,  with  foreigners  on 
board,  intending  to  revolutionize  our  country  and  upset  the 
government  of  our  good,  king."  (The  brigands  pretended  to 
be  desperately  loyal  to  King  Bomba.)  "The  ship  was  seized, 
adjudged  a  lawful  prize,  and  condemned  as  such.  The  crew, 
including  one  Englishman,  were  cast  into  prison.  England 
was  indignant  at  the  outrage  upon  one  of  her  subjects, 
threatened  the  king's  government,  and,  abusing  her  superior 
strength,  compelled  Ferdinand  to  restore  the  ship,  and  to 
liberate  the  Englishman,  and,  in  addition,  to  pay  him  the 
sum  of  ten  thousand  ducats.  The  tariff  for  a  rogue  being 
thus  fixed  by  yourselves,  we  could  not  think  of  asking  less  for 
the  ransom  of  an  honest  man.  As  to  the  other  ten  thousand 
ducats,  that  is  the  price  you  must  pay  for  the  presence  of 
your  ship-of-war  at  Reggio,  and  the  attempt  to  coerce  us  by 
employing  soldiers  to  hunt  us  down ;  for  know,  Signer  Con- 
sule," added  the  brigand  with  a  haughty  gesture,  "  we  are  not 
children,  who  can  be  frightened  into  compliance  with  your 
wishes." 

"  The  Barbara  "  came  over  to  Messina  afterwards,  and  we 
met  her  officers  frequently  amid  the  festivities  of  that  gay 
city.  We  heard  that  the  fair  Sicilians  frequently  asked  their 
guests  how  they  liked  cruising  after  brigands  in  the  moun- 
tains of  Calabria. 

From  the  Adriatic  we  visited  the  Ionian  Islands,  the  west 
coast  of  Greece,  and  the  Morea,  touching  at  Napoli  di  Romania 
and  Hydra ;  and  off  Cape  Colonna  we  met  the  British  frigate 
"Portland"  bearing  away  from  the  classic  land  old  King 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  33 

Louis  of  Bavaria,  who  had  been  on  a  visit  to  his  son,  King 
Otho  of  Greece.  Then,  sailing  up  the  Gulf  of  Salamis,  we 
entered  the  harbor  of  the  Piraeus,  and  anchored  in  view  of 
Athens,  with  Mount  Hymettus  towering  above  the  city. 

The  young  king  had  just  ascended  the  throne,  and  offered 
TIS  every  facility  for  visiting  the  objects  of  interest  in  his 
kingdom  :  for  which,  I  fear,  we  made  but  a  poor  return ;  for 
his  visit  to  "The  Constitution"  at  Piraeus  nearly  cost  him  his 
life.  It  happened  in  this  wise  :  — 

On  a  lovely  morning  His  Majesty  came  on  board,  accom- 
panied by  a  numerous  suite  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the 
court,  and  civil  and  military  officers,  whom  we  received  with 
all  the  honors.  The  ship  was  in  her  best  trim  ;  and,  at  the 
close  of  the  reception-ceremonies,  the  drum  beat  to  quarters, 
and  the  crew  were  exercised  at  the  great  guns  and  in  all  the 
details  of  a  naval  engagement,  at  the  king's  request.  Now, 
we  had  on  board  certain  repeating  rifles,  invented  by  some 
cute  Yankee,  intended  to  clear  an  enemy's  deck  at  close 
quarters,  and,  generally,  to  "  beat  all  creation."  Tbis  arm, 
formidable  alike  to  enemies  and  friends,  consisted  of  seven 
rifled  gun-barrels  welded  together  en  faisceau,  the  repeating 
principle  lying  in  the  peculiar  form  of  the  bullets,  which  were 
cylindrical,  with  a  hole  for  a  fuse  through  their  axes ;  thus 
communicating  with  a  charge  of  powder  between  each  pair 
of  bullets,  and,  seriatim,  from  that  nearest  the  muzzle  to  the 
breech.  The  lock  was  near  the  muzzle  of  the  arm,  and  each 
barrel  contained  twenty-five  charges.  A  shower  of  leaden 
hail  could  thus  be  thrown,  which  was  to  continue  until  all  the 
hundred  and  seventy-five  projectiles  were  discharged ;  for, 
the  piece  once  fired,  its  contents  must  all  be  thrown  out 
before  the  volley  could  be  stopped.  It  was  poised  up  on  a 
swivel,  intended  to  be  inserted  in  a  top  rim  or  ship's  rail,  and 
directed  by  a  long  handle  called  a  "  monkey-tail." 

At  the  close  of  the  exercises,  the  king  and  the  rest  of  our 


34  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

guests,  with  the  officers  of  the  ship  and  those  of  a  French 
frigate  in  the  harbor,  assembled  on  the  quarter-deck  to 
witness  the  performances  of  this  wonderful  engine,  which  was 
swivelled  upon  the  taffrail.  Our  old  gunner  seized  the 
monkey-tail  to  control  the  fire,  pointed  his  piece  at  the 
target,  —  which  consisted  of  some  barrels  lashed  together  and 
dropped  astern  of  the  ship,  and  pulled  the  lockstring. 

The  "  infernal  machine  "  began  its  work  in  an  exemplary 
manner,  with  the  rolling  fire  of  an  infantry  platoon,  and 
smashed  the  target  at  once.  One,  two,  three  barrels  were 
emptied ;  but  the  piece  then  became  hot,  and  gave  evidence  of 
a  strong  desire  to  emancipate  itself  from  control,  and  to 
wheel  upon  its  pivot,  and  turn  its  muzzle  inboard.  The 
gunner  held  on  manfully  to  the  monkey-tail  until  all  but  the 
last  two  barrels  were  discharged ;  when  the  piece  became  com- 
pletely unmanageable,  and  suddenly  bore  upon  the  deck,  dis- 
tributing its  leaden  sugar-plums  indiscriminately  in  every 
direction. 

Sauve  qui  pent  was  the  word;  and  the  spar-deck  was 
quickly  cleared.  Our  commodore,  with  great  presence  of 
mind,  seized  the  king  in  his  arms,  and  made  a  plunge  down 
the  after-hatchway  leading  to  the  main-deck  ;  and  all  the 
company  dived  below  through  other  hatchways,  the  ship- 
officers  gallantly  following  the  example  of  the  commodore 
with  the  ladies  of  the  court.  The  king  was  dressed  in  a 
splendid  Albanian  costume ;  and  the  ample  white  kilt  spread 
out  like  a  fan  while  His  Majesty  made  frantic  efforts  to  escape 
from  the  parental  embrace  of  the  old  commodore  in  what  he 
considered  a  most  undignified  retreat  from  danger.  The 
ladies  took  it  more  quietly ;  but  the  exodus  was  general  as  well 
as  speedy,  and  the  quarter-deck  was  left  to  the  undisputed 
possession  of  Brother  Jonathan's  patent  exterminator,  which 
continued  to  rake  the  spar-deck  fore  and  aft  until  the  bullets 
were  all  expended. 


VI. 


"TpEOM  Greece  and  the  island  ports  of  the  ^Egean  Sea  our 
JD  summer  cruise  was  continued  to  Smyrna,  which  we  found 
the  most  agreeable  and  hospitable  of  all  the  Levantine  ports. 
The  society  was  of  a  nature  which  is  always  the  most  enter- 
taining, and  was  composed  of  refined  and  highly  educated 
people,  —  Americans,  English,  Italians,  Spaniards,  French, 
Greeks,  and  Armenians. 

Of  the  native  Turks  I  cannot  speak,  as  unbelievers  are  not 
admitted  to  the  privacy  of  their  dwellings,  with  the  rare  ex- 
ception of  a  few  official  persons ;  judging  from  whose  reports, 
we  had  no  desire  to  know  more  of  the  Osmanli. 

The  Christian  element,  of  which  I  have  spoken,  is  most 
harmoniously  fused  in  an  institution,  common  to  the  cities  of 
the  Levant  and  Sicily,  known  as  the  casino.  This  is  what 
we  should  term  a  club :  but,  social  enjoyment  being  its  object, 
its  privileges  are  shared  by  both  sexes ;  which  community  gives 
the  institution  a  more  civilized  and  refining  character.  The 
casino  is  established  and  maintained  by  subscription ;  all 
the  members  being  on  terms  of  perfect  equality,  and  retain- 
ing there  the  same  independence  they  enjoy  in  their  own 
homes.  The  casino  at  Smyrna  was,  and  probably  still  remains, 
a  model  of  its  kind.  The  house  was  large  and  spacious,  its 
saloons  magnificent,  with  suites  of  elegant  apartments  for  cards, 
billiards,  conversation,  and  music,  including  a  fine  ball-room ; 
all  handsomely  furnished.  A  restaurant  and  buffet  was  at- 

85 


36  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

tached  to  the  establishment,  which  had  a  large  staff  of  attend- 
ants under  the  superintendence  of  a  major-domo,  who  per- 
formed his  multifarious  duties  subject  to  the  direction  of  a 
committee  of  members  of  the  casino.  The  subscribers  main- 
taining this  splendid  institution  were  all  merchants,  either  of 
Smyrna  or  the  neighborhood,  including  all  the  foreign  consuls, 
who,  in  the  East,  enjoy  a  quasi  diplomatic  character.  There 
was  a  weekly  ball,  except  in  the  season  of  villegiatura  ;  and  the 
rooms  could  be  used  by  the  members  for  private  re-unions  if 
they  pleased.  This  last  advantage  of  membership  I  should 
think  worthy  of  imitation  elsewhere,  as  it  precludes  the  neces- 
sity of  turning  one's  own  domicile  upside-down  for  a  single 
evening,  to  say  nothing  of  the  saving  of  expense.  All  stran- 
gers were  introduced  by  a  member ;  after  which  they  enjoyed 
all  the  advantages  of  the  casino. 

At  these  casino  balls,  I  have  heard  the  officers  of  all  nations 
agree,  were  to  be  seen  the  most  attractive  and  beautiful  women 
of  every  clime,  bewildering  in  variety  of  charms,  bewitching 
in  character,  and  all  in  toilets  more  or  less  splendid  and  fanciful. 
In  fact,  nothing  was  wanted  to  complete  the  accessories  of  ele- 
vated and  refining  social  enjoyment. 

Having  received  our  firman  from  the  Sublime  Porte,  after 
considerable  diplomatic  negotiation  and  delay,  we  left  Smyrna 
and  its  fair  women,  its  gay  balls  and  parties  at  the  casino,  its 
delicious  fruits,  its  pleasant  hunting-parties  in  the  woods  of 
the  neighborhood,  where  wild  boar  and  venison  were  abundant, 
and  sailed  for  the  Dardanelles,  touching  at  the  plains  of  Troy, 
and  anchored  in  due  time  off  Seraglio  Point,  at  Constanti- 
nople. 

Although  desirous  of  seeing  this  far-famed  city,  we  did  not 
find  the  change  agreeable  in  many  respects. 

I  never  could  feel  any  admiration  for  the  Easterns,  especially 
the  Turks,  who,  after  all,  are  but  a  strange,  nomadic,  and 
still  barbarous  people,  albeit  prominent  in  European  politics, 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  37 

and  who  may  be  said,  at  the  present  day,  to  be  merely  en- 
camped in  Europe.  Hardly  more  sympathy  can  be  felt  for 
them  by  the  people  of  Western  Europe  than  is  felt  by  the 
people  of  the  United  States  for  the  Mormons  or  the  abo- 
rigines. 

As  to  the  sights  of  Stamboul,  they  are  chiefly  natural ; 
and  those  esteemed  very  wonderful  by  the  Turks  may  be 
dismissed  as  altogether  unworthy  of  serious  notice.  The 
antiquities  are  few,  and  the  museums  and  palaces  contempti- 
ble, except  those  of  the  sultan,  which  have  a  sort  of  mixed 
French  and  barbaric  splendor.  The  population  is  bigoted,  in- 
tolerant, and  insufferably  dirty  in  appearance  and  manners ; 
and  altogether  you  cannot  resist  a  strong  desire  to  expel 
these  Oriental  humbugs  to  the  Asian  deserts  from  which  they 
came. 

Sultan  Mahmoud,  the  slayer  of  the  janizaries,  and  one  of 
the  wisest  monarchs  who  has  ever  held  the  sceptre  of  the 
prophet,  and  the  first  who  had  ventured  upon  the  work  of 
reform  in  the  empire,  was  at  that  time  at  the  height  of  his 
power.  Strolling  through  the  Almeidan  one  day  with  a  few 
companions,  we  became  aware  that  a  distinguished  party  was 
entering  the  place.  First  came  a  squadron  of  cavalry,  which 
occupied  the  different  avenues  leading  to  it ;  while  a  smaller 
party  of  richly-dressed  slaves  following  them  drove  away 
every  one  but  ourselves,  telling  us  we  might  remain ;  and, 
forming  in  line,  drew  their  sabres.  They  were  the  eunuchs 
of  the  imperial  harem.  The  ancient  lists  having  been 
cleared,  a  target  was  set  up  at  one  end  of  them;  and  we 
learned  that  the  commander  of  the  faithful  himself  was 
momentarily  expected  to  enjoy  his  favorite  practice  of  arch- 
ery, in  which  he  excelled.  To  this  one  of  the  ancient  cus- 
toms of  the  padishahs,  his  predecessors,  he  still  adhered.  A 
group  of  Turks,  evidently  of  station  and  consequence,  fol- 
lowed; and  then,  riding  alone  on  a  noble  chestnut  horse, 

4 


38  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

came  Mahmoud  himself.  He  dismounted  immediately,  and, 
taking  a  bow  and  arrows  from  an  attendant,  placed  himself  at 
a  stone  which  marked  the  base,  and  began  to  fire  at  the 
target,  at  about  the  distance,  I  should  think,  of  a  hundred 
yards. 

The  sultan  was  at  that  time  in  full  health  and  strength, 
and  had  a  considerable  share  of  good  looks.  He  was  of  me- 
dium size,  with  aquiline  features,  piercing  black  eyes,  and  a 
full  beard  of  the  same  color,  which  probably  owed  its  glossy 
look  to  dyes  and  cosmetics.  His  dress  was  a  blue  cloth  tunic, 
made  like  a  single-breasted  military  frock,  with  embroidered 
cuffs  and  collar ;  light-blue  trousers  in  the  Frankish  style ; 
and  a  star  of  brilliants  on  the  breast  of  his  coat.  On  his 
head  was  a  scarlet  fez,  with  an  aigret  of  brilliants  in  front, 
holding  a  straight  heron's  plume,  the  imperial  ghika  ;  and  by 
his  side  hung  a  gorgeous  sabre.  On  dismounting,  he  threw 
off  a  capacious  scarlet  cloak.  The  commander  of  the  faith- 
ful proved  to  be  a  skilful  as  well  as  graceful  archer,  striking 
the  target  with  every  arrow.  After  about  a  dozen  successful 
shots,  the  target  was  removed ;  and  the  sultan  began  his  exer- 
cise with  the  bow  for  distance,  which  was  marked  off  by 
several  marble  pillars.  He  stepped  forward,  and  quickly 
despatched  about  a  dozen  more  arrows,  firing  with  great 
rapidity.  I  should  think  he  sent  his  shafts  at  least  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  yards. 

The  sultan  then  became  aware  that  we  were  observing 
him,  and  graciously  sent  us  the  information  by  an  officer,  that 
he  had,  in  the  last  trial,  sent  an  arrow  beyond  any  of  those 
recorded  by  his  predecessors.  He  then  mounted  his  horse 
and  rode  off,  followed  by  his  eunuchs ;  but  the  cavalry  re- 
mained for  about  an  hour,  engaged  in  the  national  exercise  of 
the  jereed,  which  I  need  not  describe. 

Although  Mahmoud  was  fond  of  and  highly  skilled  in  the 
old  warlike  sports  of  the  Mussulmans,  he  still  took  care  to 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  39 

provide  his  army  with  muskets  and  hayonets  of  European 
manufacture,  and  clothed  them  in  the  uniform  of  the  Frank  ; 
which  certainly  did  not  improve  their  appearance  to  the  eye 
accustomed  to  behold  the  models  they  imitated.  These  re- 
forms, and  other  departures  from  the  time-honored  customs  of 
the  Moslems,  led  to  a  serious  revolt,  which  he  extinguished 
with  resolute  vigor ;  but  discontent  still  existed,  and  his  regu- 
lar troops  were  called,  in  derision,  "  tacticos." 

Leaving  Constantinople,  we  sailed  down  the  ^Egean,  touch- 
ing at  Scio  and  Tenedos,  and  sustaining  a  heavy  gale,  in 
which  we  narrowly  escaped  shipweck.  The  storm  was  heavi- 
est just  before  nightfall,  when  we  were  to  the  northward  of 
Myconi,  and  that  island  was  close  under  our  lee.  The  sun 
went  down  red  and  angry ;  and  the  wind,  increasing  with  the 
darkness  of  night,  became  almost  a  hurricane,  accompanied 
by  sharp  lightning  and  driving  rain  and  hail.  We  lost  sight 
of  the.  high  and  rocky  shores;  but,  at  midnight,  could  dis- 
tinctly hear  the  roar  of  the  surf  as  the  waves  broke  on  the 
rocks,  so  near  to  them  were  we.  Our  ship  held  on  well,  with 
the  lee  hammock-nettings  almost  in  the  water,  as  she  ca- 
reened under  the  pressure  of  close-reefed  topsails  and  whole 
courses.  In  an  open  sea  she  would  have  been  hove  to  under 
storm-sails ;  but  here  we  were  compelled  to  carry  on,  even  if 
the  masts  went  out  of  her.  Our  old  Greek  pilot  stood  be- 
tween the  night-heads,  accompanied  by  several  officers ;  and 
our  first  lieutenant  —  a  splendid  seaman  and  accomplished 
officer  —  had  the  deck,  and  stood  immovable  at  his  post, 
trumpet  in  hand.  The  ship  dashed  gallantly  through  the 
waves  at  a  high  rate  of  speed,  but  trembled  like  a  living 
tiling  under  the  unwonted  pressure  of  canvas.  Every  officer 
and  seaman  was  at  his  post,  and  perfect  silence  prevailed : 
no  sound  was  heard  save  the  roar  of  the  blast,  and  the  dash- 
ing of  the  waves  as  the  ship  threw  them  from  her  bows. 

Just  at  a  critical  instant,  when  the  breakers  were  reported 


40  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

ahead,  and  the  command  for  tacking,  "  Eeady  ahout ! "  had 
been  given  through  the  trumpet,  a  heavy  squall  passed  over 
the  ship,  and  the  cloufls  broke  away  for  a  moment  in  the 
southern  horizon,  showing  clearly  the  passage  between  the 
Islands  of  Tino  and  Myconi,  for  which  our  pilot  had  been 
anxiously  looking.  Ins'tead  of  tacking,  the  ship  was  put  be- 
fore the  wind  ;  the  mainsail  hauled  up.  Up  went  the  helm, 
and  she  flew  into  the  passage  like  a  bird,  that,  having  been 
struggling  against  an  adverse  wind,  suddenly  abandons  its 
purpose,  and  flies  with  the  gale. 

The  old  pilot  then  gave  his  directions  to  the  helmsman  to 
"port"  or  "starboard"  as  we  rushed  through  the  narrow  pas- 
sage, "  conning "  the  ship  by  the  luminous  appearance  of 
the  breakers  on  either  hand  as  we  approached  them ;  and  in 
half  an  hour  we  rounded  to  under  the  lee  of  the  land,  and 
were  saved.  Not  so  a  Turkish  line-of-battle  ship,  which  had 
been  in  company  with  us  all  day.  We  heard  afterwards 
that  she  went  ashore  upon  Tino  that  fearful  night,  and  was 
lost,  with  every  one  on  board,  —  five  hundred  and  sixty 
souls. 

A  few  days  later,  having  run  down  the  coast  of  Asia  Minor, 
our  good  ship  anchored  in  the  road  of  Beyrout. 

Having  visited  the  ruins  of  Balbec  and  the  famed  city  of 
Damascus,  we  sailed  southward  close  in  with  the  land  of  Syria, 
and,  passing  Mount  Carmel,  anchored  again  at  Sidon. 

From  this  ancient  seaport  I  was  sent  by  our  commodore  with 
a  message  to  Lady  Hester  Stanhope,  who  had  her  residence 
not  far  off  on  a  hill ;  and  arrived  there  just  at  nightfall. 

This  eccentric  English  lady,  the  niece  of  the  great  Earl  of 
Chatham,  had  led  a  solitary  life  in  the  East  for  several  years, 
during  which  she  occupied  herself  in  travelling  over  the  coun- 
try, in  becoming  acquainted  with  the  places  celebrated  in 
biblical  history,  and  acquiring  the  various  languages  and 
customs  of  the  Oriental  countries. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  41 

Her  relatives  were  much  concerned  about  her  eccentricities 
and  voluntary  exile,  as  she  had  once  moved  in  and  adorned 
the  highest  society,  and  possessed  an  ample  fortune.  Several 
reasons  were  assigned  for  her  voluntary  exile,  the  most  plau- 
sible of  which,  probably,  was  that  her  mind  was  somewhat 
unsettled  in  consequence  of  the  death  of  her  affianced  hus- 
band, Sir  John  Moore,  killed  at  Coruna,  —  the  hero  of  the  fine 
ballad,— 

"  Not  a  drum  was  heard,  nor  a  funeral  note, 
As  his  corse  to  the  ramparts  we  hurried,"  &c. 

Lady  Hester  had  expended  a  large  portion  of  her  property 
during  her  sojourn  in  the  East,  roaming  the  wilds  and  deserts 
at  the  head  of  her  hired  soldiers,  and  making  treaties  with 
the  wild  Bedouin  sheiks  in  the  spirit  of  a  Semiramis.  She 
was  certainly  generous  and  fearless ;  but  I  fancy  she  some- 
times owed  her  safety,  while  travelling  in  the  desert,  to  the 
high  respect  and  deference  yielded  by  all  Orientals  to  persons 
whom  Allah  has  deprived  of  the  full  measure  of  reason.  No 
doubt,  also,  her  ladyship's  bucksheesh  was  acceptable  to  these 
untutored  children  of  Nature,  who  are  quite  as  mercenary  as 
other  barbarians  or  the  Thugs  of  civilization. 

The  American  consul  at  Sidon,  our  surgeon,  and  myself, 
arriving  rather  late  at  the  rambling  buildings  which  composed 
the  residence  of  the  English  lady,  found  the  gates  shut  and 
guarded  by  her  ladyship's  Albanian  soldiers ;  but  after  a 
parley,  in  which  our  ambassadorial  character  was  reported 
to  the  chieftainess,  they  were  opened  to  us,  and  we  dis- 
mounted in  the  court-yard.  We  were  then  invited  into  the 
house,  and  provided  with  toilet-conveniences,  and  a  comforta- 
ble supper,  a  la  Turque,  on  temperance  principles,  but  with 
plenty  of  kibobs  and  coffee.  After  this  refreshment  we  were 
told  that  Lady  Hester  would  receive  us,  and,  following  an  at- 
tendant, were  conducted  into  a  large,  dimly-lighted  room  very 
4* 


42  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

scantily  furnished,  with  windows  high  up  in  the  walls,  so  that 
any  view  from  without  was  impossible.  At  the  farther  end 
of  this  room,  on  a  divan,  sat  a  bundle  of  Turkish  female  habili- 
ments, which,  upon  a  nearer  approach,  proved  to  contain  a 
lady,  who  was  smoking  a  long  chibouk,  which  she  scarcely 
removed  from  her  lips  to  bid  us  welcome. 

Without  rising,  she  removed  the  "  yashmak  "  from  her  face, 
and  gracefully  motioned  us  to  seats,  her  attendants  bringing 
us  pipes  like  her  own  ;  and  for  some  minutes  we  all  sat  silent, 
as  if  smoking  the  calumet  with  some  Indian  potentate.  My 
message  and  invitation  to  the  ship  having  been  delivered  and 
duly  acknowledged  by  the  lady,  silence  reigned  again  for  a 
brief  space,  during  which  we  had  time  to  observe  and  admire 
the  truly  noble  and  expressive  features  of  the  singular  woman 
before  us. 

Suddenly  the  silence  was  broken  by  Lady  Hester,  who 
commenced  a  long  tirade  against  the  British  ministry,  which 
had  incurred  her  lady's  displeasure  by  divers  acts,  as  we 
now  learned  for  the  first  time  from  her  own  lips,  but  in  the 
merits  of  which  we  surely  could  not  be  expected  to  feel  the 
slightest  interest.  Having  scolded  and  abused  the  uncon- 
scious objects  of  her  displeasure  at  considerable  length  with 
an  energy  of  speech  not  much  milder  than  vituperation,  Lady 
Hester  asked  for  news  of  Ibrahim  Pacha. 

When  we  had  given  the  required  information  as  to  his 
Highness,  who  had  been  especially  polite  and  hospitable  to  us 
at  Beyrout,  her  ladyship  proceeded,  with  undiminished  volu- 
bility, to  pour  out  the  vials  of  her  wrath  upon  the  head  of  the 
pacha,  whose  crimes  seemed  to  be  rebelling  against  the  sultan 
his  master,  and  neglect  of  her  ladyship's  advice.  She  finished 
her  diatribe  by  announcing  her  intention  to  seek  out  the 
pacha,  and  to  lead  him  by  the  beard  to  the  footstool  of  his 
rightful  lord,  the  padishah,  and  to  crush  the  revolt  by  imprison- 
ing the  father  of  Ibrahim,  Mehemet  Ali,  Pacha  of  Egypt. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  43 

As  she  declared  her  determination,  Lady  Hester  rose  from 
her  seat,  dropping  her  chibouk,  which  was  picked  up  by  a 
little  black  girl  at  her  feet,  and  stood  revealed  to  our  sight,  — 
a  tall,  elegant  figure,  clad  in  loosely-flowing  robes,  and  looking 
like  an  inspired  sibyl. 

After  having  vented  her  anger  as  to  her  two  pet  grievances, 
she  conversed  very  agreeably  on  general  topics,  antiquities, 
&c.,  for  some  time,  during  which  she  appeared  in  her  real 
character, — that  of  a  high-born  English  lady.  The  lucid 
interval  was  not  of  long  duration,  however ;  for  soon  she  again 
broke  forth,  and  this  time  her  theme  was  religion. 

Apart  from  her  interesting  account  of  places  hallowed  by 
the  traditions  of  Bible  story,  her  discourse  was  a  rhapsody 
rather  than  a  discussion,  and  altogether  failed  to  settle  the 
knotty  points  she  so  flippantly  assumed  to  decide.  Her  theo- 
logy seemed  to  be  a  strange  mosaic  of  Judaism,  Christianity, 
and  Islamism,  ingeniously  dovetailed  together  into  a  creed 
or  faith,  of  the  absolute  truth  of  which,  if  unrevealed  to 
others,  she  had  convinced  herself,  at  least,  satisfactorily.  She 
evidently  was  a  firm  believer  in  the  doctrine  of  private  judg- 
ment in  faith,  even  to  personal  infallibility. 

We  could  easily  see  that  her  ladyship  had  not  such  good 
listeners  every  day ;  and  she  availed  herself  to  the  fullest  extent 
of  the  opportunity,  continuing  always  the  speaker,  and  run- 
ning from  one  subject  to  another  with  rapidity  and  ease ;  and 
at  last,  meeting  with  neither  denial  nor  criticism  from  us,  she 
arose  majestically  from  her  divan,  and  bade  us  good-night. 
She  took  leave  courteously,  offering  us  her  hospitality,  and 
amiably  saying  that  she  had  a  right  to  feel  a  peculiar  interest  in 
our  native  country,  holding,  as  she  did,  so  near  a  relationship 
to  Lord  Chatham,  our  oldest  friend  and  advocate  :  then,  kindly 
giving  us  leave  to  see  her  celebrated  mares  on  the  next  morn- 
ing, she  retired  with  graceful  dignity. 

We  were  astonished  to  find  that  the  interview,  which  began 
about  eight,  P.M.,  had  lasted  until  long  after  midnight. 


44  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

We  did  not  again  see  our  hostess  ;  but  before  leaving,  after 
breakfast  next  morning,  paid  a  visit  to  the  famous  mares. 
One  of  these  animals  had  a  remarkably  hollow  back,  a  sort  of 
natural  saddle,  and  was  destined  for  the  use  of  the  Redeemer 
of  the  world  at  his  second  coming ;  while  the  other  was  re- 
served for  Lady  Hester  herself,  who,  with  her  divine  companion, 
was  to  ride  triumphantly  into  Jerusalem.  The  animals  were 
in  fine  condition,  never  being  used ;  and  stared  at  us  as  if  they 
marvelled  greatly  at  our  appearance. 

We  had  a  pleasant  ride  back  to  Sidon,  stopping  at  a  Ma- 
ronite  convent  half  way,  the  prior  of  which  shrugged  his 
shoulders  when  he  heard  where  we  had  been,  tapping  his  fore- 
head significantly :  he  then  drew  forth  a  bottle  of  excellent 
native  wine  for  our  refreshment. 

On  comparing  notes,  we  found  the  impression  received  by  all 
of  us  was  the  same,  —  that  Lady  Hester  was  partly  deranged, 
and  partly  a  religious  enthusiast ;  and  that  Gen.  Sir  John 
Moore,  by  his  glorious  death  on  the  battle-field,  had  escaped  a 
more  painful  fate. 


VII. 

A  REIVING  at  St.  Jean  d'Acre,  we  found  that  Ibrahim 
_ZTjL  Pacha  had  preceded  us,  and  was  actively  engaged  in  re- 
pairing the  defences  of  that  celebrated  place  in  preparation  for 
the  conflict  between  his  sovereign  and  himself  that  soon  after 
broke  out.  Ibrahim  was  a  man  of  mark  in  the  East,  and  used 
all  his  power  to  sustain  his  father,  the  rebellious  pacha,  then 
struggling  to  make  his  pachalic  hereditary  in  his  family  ;  and 
doubtless  dreamed  of  independent  sovereignty,  which  they 
would  doubtless  have  achieved  but  for  Russian  interposition. 

I  often  saw  him.  He  was  of  low  stature,  with  a  meagre 
face  and  figure ;  but  had  a  soldierly  carriage,  and  a  mien  of 
authority  and  dignity. 

Unlike  most  Turks,  he  was  of  a  restless  and  uneasy  temper 
and  active  habits.  His  efforts  to  improve  the  Egyptian  army 
and  marine  were  untiring  ;  and  he  employed  many  foreign  offi- 
cers in  the  work  of  reform.  His  dress  was  always  the  same,  — 
that  of  a  private  soldier,  —  a  simple  white  linen  tunic,  baggy 
trousers  of  the  same  material,  with  blue  cloth  trimmings,  and 
gaiters ;  his  head  coifed  with  the  inevitable  fez,  and  a  plainly- 
mounted  sabre  at  his  side.  Yet,  simply  attired  though  he  was, 
the  pacha  was  always  the  central  figure  of  his  large  and  bril- 
liant staff. 

Of  course,  all  the  officers  had  opportunity  to  make  a  pilgrim- 
age to  the  Holy  City  under  the  most  favorable  auspices,  and 
protected  by  the  authorities.  I  visited  all  the  scenes  of  our 

45 


46  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

Lord's  earthly  sojournings,  —  his  sufferings  and  passion, —  with 
gratitude  for  the  precious  privilege ;  and  treasured  up  memo- 
ries ever  after  recurred  to  with  sincere  pleasure. 

These  places  have  been  reverenced  by  the  followers  of  the 
Messiah  for  nearly  two  thousand  years  as  the  actual  theatre 
of  those  memorable  events.  I  can  have  no  sympathy  with 
those  who  go  to  the  Holy  Land  with  determined  scepticism  as 
to  the  identification  of  the  spot  held  sacred  in  Catholic  history. 
The  Catholic  pilgrim  certainly  has  the  advantage  of  the  Prot- 
estant in  this  respect ;  for  he  can,  reposing  in  the  religious 
reverence  in  which  he  has  been  reared,  ask  confidently,  "  Is 
not  this  the  place  where  the  '  mortal  put  on  immortality '  ? 
Was  it  not  here  that  the  sacrifice  of  the  Man-God  was  con- 
summated ?  " 

Under  the  guidance  of  an  intelligent  Greek  kavass  we  vis- 
ited Bethlehem,  the  Dead  Sea,  and  the  River  Jordan ;  and, 
while  encamped  at  the  latter  place,  were  visited  by  a  party  of 
Bedouin  Arabs.  Though  they  may  have  come  with  plundering 
intent,  they  found  that  nothing  was  to  be  gained  by  force,  and 
contented  themselves  with  begging  for  every  thing  they  saw. 
With  Spiridion  as  interpreter,  I  entered  into  conversation  with 
a  venerable  sheik,  who  sat  gravely  before  the  low  tent  of 
striped  cloth,  stroking  his  long  white  beard.  We  spoke  of  the 
ruins  at  Balbec,  Palmyra,  and  other  localities,  with  all  of 
which  he  was  familiar,  and  of  the  unknown  and  unremembered 
people  who  had  once  possessed  them.  These  sons  of  Ishmael 
are  accustomed  to  converse  in  poetry ;  and,  at  the  termination 
of  our  discourse,  the  old  sheik  said,  taking  hold  of  his  tent- 
cord,  "  This  string  of  camel's  hair  which  supports  my  tent  is 
but  a  slender  one ;  yet  it  has  seen  the  rise  and  fall  of  Babylon, 
Tyre,  and  Palmyra,  as  well  as  all  the  gorgeous  remains  of  the 
cities  we  have  been  talking  about." 

We  were  hospitably  received  at  Alexandria  by  the  pacha, 
Mehemet  Ali,  who  then  reigned  as  independently  as  any  sove- 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  47 

reign  monarch.  He  was  a  fine,  venerable  man  of  about  sixty, 
with  a  delicate,  fresh-colored  complexion,  and  a  long  white 
beard  of  silky  texture.  At  his  reception  in  the  palace  over- 
looking the  harbor,  he  did  the  honors  in  a  graceful  and  dignified 
manner,  more  like  a  Western  European  than  any  Turk  I  had 
yet  seen.  He  wore  the  Nizam  dress  of  fine  brown  cloth,  slen- 
derly embroidered  in  black ;  for  the  "  tactico "  dress  had  not 
as  yet  been  adopted  in  Egypt.  Looking  at  his  benevolent 
face,  no  one  would  imagine  that  he  was  the  ruthless  and  de- 
termined destroyer  of  the  Mameluke  Beys,  the  only  survivor  of 
whom  was  pointed  out  to  us  at  the  reception.  This  was  Emin 
Bey,  who  leaped  his  horse  from  the  wall  of  the  citadel  at  Cairo 
down  fifty  feet  into  the  fosse,  and  thus  escaped  the  massacre 
that  overtook  all  his  comrades  in  the  court-yard.  The  horse 
was  killed ;  but  a  few  days  afterwards  an  old  woman  in  rags 
presented  herself  at  the  divan  of  the  pacha,  begging  for  mercy 
from  the  truculent  chief.  Mehemet,  recognizing  the  "  kismet," 
—  the  doctrine  of  fatalism  of  Islam,  —  not  only  pardoned 
Emin,  but  afterwards  took  him  into  his  confidence,  —  a  sure 
road  to  wealth  and  honor 

Some  months  after  leaving  the  Levant  I  was  temporarily 
detached  from  duty  in  the  squadron,  and  ordered  to  report 
myself  to  the  American  minister  at  Madrid,  as  bearer  of 
despatches  from  him  to  the  legation  in  Paris ;  and,  in  pursu- 
ance of  my  instructions,  landed  at  Lisbon  about  the  first  of 
September,  18-36,  and  proceeded  with  the  American  consul 
the  next  day  to  the  village  of  Aldea  Gallega.  I  supped  that 
evening  at  the  posada  in  company  with  the  gypsy  chief  with 
whom  the  consul  had  arranged  to  conduct  myself  and  servant 
safely  to  Badajos  across  the  frontier.  This  worthy,  Pedrecillo 
by  name,  —  gypsies  scorn  surnames,  —  was  a  dark-skinned, 
sun-dried  specimen  of  his  race,  forlorn  and  miserable  enough 
in  appearance,  though  possessed  of  the  keen  black  eyes  of  the 
Gitanos,  that  seemed  perpetually  on  the  lookout  for  snares  and 


48  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

pitfalls,  as  became  his  vocation  of  contrabandists  His  usual 
employment,  when  occupied  with  any  business,  was  smuggling 
tobacco  and  other  forbidden  merchandise  by  the  aid  of  his 
band,  although  their  ostensible  employment  was  trading  horses 
and  mules. 

I  was  assured  that  I  could  trust  implicitly  to  the  protection 
of  the  gypsies,  and  that  I  might  feel  as  safe  on  my  journey  as 
if  I  had  an  escort  of  cavalry.  Having  agreed  to  conduct  and 
protect  us  for  a  fixed  compensation,  Pedrecillo,  I  was  told, 
would  fulfil  his  engagement  to  the  letter;  although,  under 
some  circumstances,  he  would  cut  our  throats  as  readily  as  a 
chicken's.  I  had  hoped  to  enjoy  a  quiet  night's  rest  at  the 
posada ;  but  Pedrecillo  informed  me  at  the  close  of  our  repast 
that  I  and  my  mozo,  a  boy  I  brought  with  me  from  Cadiz,  must 
set  forth  at  midnight,  and  join  him  at  a  place  on  the  highway 
just  outside  the  town,  near  which  the  gypsy  crew  were  bivou- 
acked. The  announcement  was  made  after  the  chief  had 
demolished  a  puchero,  the  greater  part  of  a  pair  of  fowls,  and 
a  pudding,  washed  down  with  a  bottle  and  a  half  of  Collares 
wine ;  and  I  assented,  concluding  that  these  gentry  transact 
their  respectable  commerce  only  by  night,  in  order  to  escape 
the  onerous  taxes  laid  by  the  resguardo  (custom-house).  I 
yielded  only  to  necessity ;  for  my  guide  stipulated  that  I  was  in 
all  things  to  obey  his  instructions  while  travelling  under  his 
protection.  I  already  owned  a  fine  mule  :  but  my  first  trans- 
action with  Pedrecillo  was  a  horse- trade ;  and  I  found  myself  in 
possession  of  a  good  Andalusian  roadster,  at  a  price  not  more 
than  twice  his  real  value.  My  mule  was  transferred  to  my 
mozo,  who  carried  the  provant  for  the  journey,  my  valise,  and 
alforjas. 

We  found  Pedrecillo  waiting  for  us  at  the  rendezvous,  and 
started  forward  in  the  moonlight  at  a  brisk  canter,  which  soon 
brought  us  up  to  the  gypsy  troop,  which  had  preceded  us. 
They  seemed  a  shabby  cavalcade  of  men,  women,  and  children, 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE,  49 

of  all  ages,  on  all  sorts  of  mounts,  from  fine  Cordovese  horses 
to  humble  boricos  (asses)  ;  and  all  were  laden  with  packs  com- 
posed of  camp  equipage  and  contraband  luggage.  At  daylight 
their  appearance,  although  picturesque,  —  rags  are  always  so, 
—  did  not  improve.  I  should  except  from  this  remark  the 
chief,  who,  being  now  on  his  "native  heath,"  dropped  his 
whining  tones  and  sneaking  demeanor,  and  assumed  a  jaunty 
and  swaggering  air.  He  was  mounted  on  a  fine  stallion ;  and 
before  him,  across  the  saddle,  was  an  enormous  trabuco  (blun- 
derbuss), capable  of  holding  a  pint  of  musket-balls,  with  a 
flaring  muzzle  like  a  bass  horn.  The  column  of  vagabonds 
was  marshalled  like  cavalry  on  a  march,  —  an  advance  of  gita- 
nos,  who  examined  the  road  with  searching  glances ;  then  the 
main  body,  with  the  cujadores  (muleteers),  with  their  pack- 
mules  of  contraband  goods ;  then  the  gypsy  women,  with  their 
household  goods,  and  bantlings  strapped  to  their  backs ;  and 
lastly  a  rear-guard  of  stout  fellows,  who  pushed  every  one 
ahead  of  them,  suffering  none  to  lag  on  the  route.  The  chief, 
his  wife  and  son,  with  Juanito  and  myself,  rode  at  the  head  of 
the  main  body  in  the  place  of  honor. 

In  this  manner  we  advanced  in  an  easterly  direction,  at  a 
steady  trot,  through  a  rough  and  uncultivated  country,  inter- 
spersed with  dry  water-courses  and  groves  of  cork-trees,  until 
about  eight,  A.M.,  when  we  saw  a  large  town  north  of  us,  and 
halted  in  an  oak  forest  at  a  spring  to  breakfast.  I  desired  to 
visit  the  town,  which  was  Evord  ;  but  the  chief  objected,  as  he 
did  not  wish  it  to  be  known  that  his  band  was  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, for  excellent  reasons  which  I  could  readily  appreciate. 
I  therefore  took  a  nap  instead ;  after  which  we  all  mounted 
and  rode  on,  and,  leaving  the  main  body  at  Estremoz,  arrived 
by  noon  at  a  miserable  village  beyond  that  town,  called  Alcar- 
vizas  ;  thence  through  Elvas,  from  which  the  chief  alone  con- 
ducted us  to  Badajos,  at  which  town  we  arrived  late  in  the 
evening. 

6 


50  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

The  gypsy  crew  had  been  left  behind  near  the  frontier  for 
some  reason  which  did  not  appear,  and  Pedrecillo  signified  to 
me  that  he  had  fulfilled  his  contract.  I  expressed  my  satis- 
faction at  his  fidelity,  paid  him  in  full,  adding  a  handsome 
douceur,  and  bade  him  farewell.  The  gypsy  thanked  me  with 
the  lofty  manner  of  a  true  Spaniard,  which  leaves  you  in 
doubt  as  to  whether  you  are  not  really  the  obliged  party,  and 
took  leave,  returning  to  his  band. 

In  my  experience  with  these  people,  I  have  always  found  it 
best  to  treat  them  with  politeness  and  consideration,  as  a  matter 
of  policy,  if  from  no  better  motives.  Offer  them  a  cigar,  call 
them  caballeros,  and  occasionally  confer  upon  them  a  grati- 
ficacioncita  of  a  few  reals :  in  this  way  you  will  conciliate 
them,  and  they  will  repay  your  condescension  by  ministering 
to  all  your  little  wants  not  formally  set  down  in  the  agree- 
ment. 

Badajos  is  usually  described  as  a  grande  place  de  guerre, 
premiere  classe  ;  but  I  found  it  only  a  dull  frontier-town,  with 
its  famous  fortifications  decaying  for  want  of  repairs.  It 
is,  however,  most  interesting  to  a  military  man  as  the  scene 
of  the  siege  conducted  by  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  and  so 
graphically  described  by  Napier  in  his  "  Peninsular  War."  It 
is  situated  on  the  Guadiana;  above  which  river  the  fortified 
heights  of  the  strong  city  rise  several  hundred  feet,  with  a 
bastioned  front  towards  the  land  side.  A  strong  tete  de  pont 
commands  the  bridge  across  the  river,  which  is  also  com- 
manded by  the  citadel  of  San  Cristobal,  into  which  the  indom- 
itable Philippon  retired  with  his  scanty  garrison  after  the 
taking  of  the  town  by  storm. 

I  visited  the  famous  bastions  of  Santa  Trinidad  and  Santa 
Maria,  where  the  main  attack  of  the  English  failed  with  such 
terrible  losses ;  and  the  San  Vicente  bastion,  where  Picton, 
converting  a  feint  into  a  real  attack,  by  a  felicitous  inspiration, 
carried  the  town. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  51 

With  these  frowning  walls  and  deep  ditches,  the  flanking 
batteries  which  defend  them,  and  the  solid  masonry  of  their 
construction,  the  strong  city  seems  impregnable  if  resolutely 
defended ;  and  we  must  agree  with  Napier,  that  "  no  age  ever 
sent  forth  braver  troops  than  those  who  stormed  and  carried 
Badajos."  Beside  the  cathedral,  erected  1248,  containing  a 
few  doubtful  pictures  of  Morales,  and  which  is  sadly  in  want 
of  repair, — for  it  is  in  Spain,  —  there  are  no  other  objects 
of  interest  to  the  passing  traveller. 

Not  being  pressed  for  time,  I  determined  to  continue  as  I 
had  begun,  and  perform  my  journey  on  horseback  with  no 
other  companion  than  my  mozo,  or  such  chance  wayfarers  as  I 
might  meet.  So  I  sent  my  impedimenta  to  Madrid  by  the 
carrier ;  and  towards  the  last  of  August  we  cantered  gayly  out 
of  Badajos  over  an  extensive  dreary  plain.  If  you  have  no 
ladies  or  other  companions,  this  is  always  the  best  mode  of 
travelling  in  countries,  which,  like  Spain,  have  a  sort  of  demi- 
civilization.  Besides  your  horse,  equipments,  and  a  servant, 
who  must  always  know  enough  of  the  country  to  act  as 
guide,  you  must  provide  a  pair  of  alforjas  (saddlebags  of 
woollen)  for  yourself,  and  capachos  de  esparto  (hempen  pan- 
niers) for  your  servant,  with  a  leather  wine-bottle  and  pro- 
vant,  —  all  of  which  is  carried  by  your  mozo  on  his  mule  ;  and 
with  your  arms,  and  a  good  cloak  of  the  excellent  Spanish 
cloth  called  pano  pardo,  you  are  equipped  for  the  road. 

You  are  then  independent,  bound  to  nobody,  travelling  at 
your  own  will  and  pleasure,  can  start  when  you  please,  stop 
when  you  please,  and  are  not  restricted  to  the  regular  high- 
way, or  subjected  to  the  dislocating  jolts  of  the  lumbering 
diligence  over  execrable  roads,  with  the  prospect  of  a  runaway 
or  an  upset,  or  the  probability  of  robbers.  It  is  the  only  plan, 
even  now,  by  which  you  can  visit  the  sights  best  worth  seeing 
in  the  country.  The  Spanish  arrieros  (carriers)  are  perfectly 
reliable,  and  may  always  be  trusted.  They  form  a  class  of 


52  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

themselves.  Like  many  of  their  countrymen,  they  are  vain, 
boasting,  and  great  liars  (embusteros)  ;  fond  of  telling  tremen- 
dous yarns  about  the  country  they  pass  through ;  but  are 
honest  and  industrious. 

We  had  a  monotonous  and  sultry  ride  across  the  plain  I 
mentioned  until  a  short  time  after  high  noon,  when  we  en- 
tered the  superannuated  city  of  Merida. 


VIII. 

VEN  in  Spain,  where  every  thing  speaks  of  the  past,  and 
.  I  ^J  nothing  of  the  living  present,  Merida,  the  ancient  capi- 
tal of  Lusitania,  retains  more  memorials  of  hy-gone  ages  than 
any  other  city ;  and,  although  very  seldom  visited  by  tourists, 
can  boast  of  remains  as  interesting  as  those  of  Rome  itself. 
Indeed,  it  might  with  reason  be  called  the  Spanish  Rome.  It 
is  proudly  seated  upon  the  Guadiana,  and  has  an  imposing  and 
lordly  aspect. 

My  first  visit  was  to  that  marvellous  structure,  the  bridge 
built  by  Trajan  across  the  Guadiana,  which  still  serves  the 
citizens  of  the  place,  and  which  seems  as  durable  as  a  work  of 
Nature.  It  is  said  that  the  Moslems,  unable  to  realize  that  it 
had  been  erected  by  man,  attributed  it  to  the  djinns,  or  genii. 
It  is  built  of  stones  of  enormous  size,  far  greater  than  those 
used  in  any  modern  work,  whose  transportation  must  have 
demanded  immense  mechanical  power,  and  which  are  still  per- 
fectly joined  together  by  cohesion  only.  It  is  more  than  twen- 
ty-five hundred  feet  long,  and  thirty  wide ;  and  the  roadway 
rests  on  eighty-one  arches,  thirty-five  feet  above  the  river. 

Over  this  bridge  passed  the  Roman  legions  with  their  ban- 
ners inscribed  S.  P.  Q.  R. ;  and,  after  the  lapse  of  eighteen  cen- 
turies, here  also  have  crossed  the  eagles  of  the  modern  Caesar. 
Both  hosts  must  have  felt  their  hearts  swell  within  them  at 
the  matchless  prospect.  A  dike  of  the  same  enduring  mason- 
ry serves  the  bridge  as  a  bulwark  against  inundations,  and  has 
6*  68 


54  KEEL  AND   SADDLE. 

undoubtedly  saved  it  from  being  seriously  damaged  in  past 
times.  This  island-buttress  is  now  a  retreat  for  the  washer- 
women of  Merida,  who  resort  to  it  in  crowds  to  ply  their  voca- 
tion. A  mixed  Roman  and  Moorish  alcazar  serves  as  a  tete  de 
pont;  and,  on  the  other  side,  the  episcopal  palace,  once  a  Moor- 
ish castle,  and  afterwards  occupied  by  the  knights  of  St.  John, 
is  raised  upon  the  Roman  foundation,  still  distinctly  visible, 
although  the  upper  part  was  blown  up  by  either  Wellington  or 
Marmont. 

In  the  town  stands  a  magnificent  triumphal  arch,  also  built 
by  Trajan,  but  now  sadly  dilapidated.  Mosaic  pavements,  the 
remains  of  richly-carved  Corinthian  columns,  and  huge  stone- 
blocks  that  seem  as  if  quarried  by  the  Titans,  also  abound  in 
the  city.  The  forum  is  traceable  near  the  convent  of  the 
Descalzos  (barefooted  friars)  ;  and  another  very  perfect  Roman 
bridge  still  spans  the  rivulet  of  Albaregas,  a  tributary  of  the 
Guadiana,  which  would  be  celebrated  in  any  other  locality. 
In  this  neighborhood  is  a  splendid  Roman  aqueduct,  with  three 
tiers  of  arches  built  partly  of  granite,  and  partly  of  brick. 
This  was  but  one  of  the  many  aqueducts  of  Merida  in  its 
palmy  days ;  yet,  ruined  as  it  is,  by  its  grand  proportions,  the 
solidity  of  its  materials,  and  its  unmistakable  utility,  it  puts  to 
shame  all  modern  works  of  the  kind.  The  circus  maximus,  or 
hippodrome,  still  exists,  just  outside  the  town,  and  might  easily 
be  used  for  equestrian  performances  without  alteration.  Its 
outer  walls  are  of  tremendous  thickness,  and  thousands  of 
spectators  could  be  accommodated  in  its  eight  rows  of  seats. 
A  small  theatre  is  still  occasionally  used  for  the  national  game 
of  bull-fighting. 

[Let  me  remark  here,  that,  in  writing  of  this  tour  in  Spain, 
I  shall  speak  at  length  only  of  such  out-of-the-way  places  as 
Merida,  which  are  seldom  visited  by  tourists ;  passing  by  with- 
out particular  mention  those  which  have  already  been  gener- 
ally seen  and  much  written  about.] 


KEEL  A.VD  SADDLE.  55 

I  spent  a  whole  day  in  inspecting  and  wondering  at  the 
great  water-reservoirs  in  the  neighborhood,  which  are  truly 
stupendous  and  unique  in  Europe,  far  surpassing  even  the  cel- 
ebrated works  of  the  same  kind  at  Constantinople.  At  the 
Charca  de  la  Albufera,  there  is  an  enormous  wall  of  solid  gran- 
ite, serving  as  a  dam  to  what  is  called  El  lago  de  Proserpina, 
— a  subterranean  artificial  lake,  so  grand  and  marvellous  in  its 
construction,  that  the  observer  might  be  pardoned  for  doubt- 
ing that  it  could  have  been  made  by  human  hands.  Several 
massive  towers  connected  with  this  wonderful  structure  con- 
tain stairs  still  perfect,  descending  into  the  huge  subterranean 
lake,  which  even  now  might  be  repaired  and  used  if  required 
by  a  numerous  population.  Alas  !  such  a  probability  is  infi- 
nitely remote ;  for  the  ancient  Emerita,  which  once  numbered 
her  hundreds  of  thousands,  now  counts  but  three  or  four  thou- 
sand poor  people. 

Having  replenished  our  provisions  for  the  road,  and  ex- 
hausted the  sights  of  Merida,  we  rose  at  daylight  one  morning, 
and  again  set  forth  on  the  king's  highway,  —  " camino  real" 
Estremadura  is  famed  through  Spain  for  the  excellence  of  its 
pork,  the  dried  soprcsuda  (a  sort  of  smoked  sausage,  flavored 
highly  witli  red  pepper,  garlic,  and  anise-seed)  being  especially 
notable,  while  the  hams  of  Montanches  have  a  European  repu- 
tation. Of  these  savory  viands  we  had  furnished  ourselves 
with  a  bountiful  supply,  Juanito  having  purchased  enough  to 
subsist  a  dozen  persons  for  a  month.  Continuing  our  route 
for  about  three  hours,  we  came  suddenly  upon  the  diligence, 
which  had  left  Merida  the  day  before,  its  mules  gone,  and  the 
passengers  surrounding  the  vehicle  with  rueful  visages.  They 
had  fallen  among  thieves :  their  luggage  had  been  ransacked, 
and  the  team  carried  off  by  the  robbers.  The  zagal  and  may- 
oral had  left  them  in  quest  of  other  animals ;  and  the  wretched 
travellers  were  compelled  to  await  their  return,  occupying  the 
interim  with  boisterous  lamentations.  A  Briton,  of  the  species 


56  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

"  commercial  traveller,"  was  especially  wrathful,  cursing  Spain, 
its  roads,  and  particularly  its  government,  calling  down  upon 
them  all  inverted  blessings,  as  soon  as  he  found  out  that  I 
understood  his  language,  i  learned  from  a  son  of  the  coun- 
try, a  passenger,  that  this  part  of  the  high-road  is  called  el 
confesionario  de  San  Pedro,  —  ominous  name,  on  account  of 
the  numbers  of  poor  travellers  sent  to  Hades  unshrived  by  the 
salteadores  (highwaymen)  who  infest  it. 

Having  fasted  since  the  day  before,  the  passengers,  nine  in 
number,  were  ravenously  hungry,  and  made  a  fierce  onslaught 
upon  our  stock  of  provisions,  while  Juanito  gallantly  engaged 
in  preparing  chocolate  for  the  three  ladies  of  the  party.  Trav- 
elling by  diligence  in  Spain  is  simply  odious.  The  cumbrous 
vehicle  is  invariably  behind  time  ;  the  stoppages,  relays,  and 
delays  innumerable;  and  the  ventas  (wayside  inns)  have 
wretched  accommodations,  and  are  overrun  with  vermin. 

The  conductors  having  arrived,  Juanito  and  myself  cantered 
gayly  off,  and  escorted  the  diligence  as  far  as  Medellin.  This 
small  place  is  noted  as  the  birthplace  of  Herman  Cortes  ;  but 
I  could  find  in  it  nothing  to  commemorate  him.  Yet  it  is 
pleasant  to  behold  places  associated  with  the  lives  of  men  who 
have  stamped  their  names  and  characters  upon  the  history  of 
their  race.  Among  these,  surely,  may  be  counted  the  chival- 
rous and  daring  leader  who  devoted  to  his  country's  aggran- 
dizement forty  years  of  his  life ;  to  use  his  own  words,  "  with 
small  allowance  of  food,  less  sleep,  and  constantly  under  arms 
and  in  harness ; "  and  who  filled  with  his  deeds  one  of  the 
most  dazzling  pages  of  history.  To  a  military  man,  Cortes 
presents  the  model  of  a  partisan  officer;  and  the  moral  of  his 
career  as  such  is,  that  its  success  was  mainly  due  to  his  bold- 
ness, and  apparent  contempt  of  all  caution  :  only  apparent ;  for, 
in  reality,  the  marquis  was  shrewd  and  cunning  as  well  as 
daring. 

On  the  next  day  we  arrived  at  Trujillo,  the  native  town  of 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  57 

another  of  the  heroes  of  Estremadura,  —  Francisco  Pizarro.  A 
tomb  is  here  shown  in  the  church  as  that  of  the  conqueror  of 
Peru,  upon  which  reclines  his  statue  in  armor;  but,  having 
seen  another  in  the  cathedral  of  Lima  said  to  be  his,  I  took 
the  liberty  of  doubting  its  genuineness.  Pizarro  was  of  hum- 
ble origin,  the  son  of  a  swineherd,  and  is  said  to  have  been 
suckled  by  an  Estremenian  sow,  —  an  appropriate  nurse  for  a 
native  of  this  province,  though  somewhat  humbler  than  that 
of  the  founders  of  ancient  Borne.  His  house  is  near  the  plaza, 
easily  to  be  recognized  by  the  statues  of  Indians  in  chains 
on  its  front  and  at  the  corners. 

Leaving  Trujillo,  we  diverged  from  the  main  road,  as  I  de- 
sired to  see  more  of  the  country ;  and  passed  the  night  at 
Caceres,  which  rivals  Cincinnati  in  the  rearing  of  swine.  The 
country  around  it  is  fruitful  and  picturesque,  pleasantly  con- 
trasting with  that  we  had  been  travelling.  The  houses  of  the 
Estremenian  aristocracy  have  a  feudal  aspect,  their  portals 
being  decorated  by  shields  of  the  armorial  bearings  of  their 
owners.  The  district  is  fertile,  and  produces  the  finest  wheat, 
fruit,  and  wine.  The  streets  of  Caceres  are  neat  and  clean, 
well  watered  by  running  brooks :  and  there  are  some  Roman 
remains,  objects  of  antiquity  being  found  in  the  vicinity, 
which  are  doubtless  genuine;  for  the  Spaniards,  unlike  the 
Italians,  have  not  sufficient  ingenuity  to  reproduce  these  arti- 
cles of  virtu. 

From  Caesar's  camp  —  the  name  is  derived  from  Castro 
Ccesaris  —  we  had  a  most  delightful  ride  past  old  Gothic 
castles,  Moorish  alcazar,  and  Roman  ruins,  to  Alcantara ; 
which  ancient  town,  with  its  crumbling  walls,  and  thin,  flank- 
ing towers,  its  grim  old  castle,  weather-stained  houses,  and 
narrow  streets,  on  its  bold  eminence  hanging  over  the  Tagus, 
would  delight  an  artist  like  Prout  or  Ruskin.  As  all  the 
world  knows,  this  ancient  town  was  founded  by  the  celebrated 
military  order  of  Alcantara,  under  the  rule  of  St.  Benedict. 


58  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

Amongst  those  mixed  orders  of  monks  and  knights  which 
shed  so  much  lustre  on  the  middle  ages,  the  Benedictines 
were  foremost  in  arms,  as  in  erudition.  Like  the  Templars, 
these  knights,  originally  poor,  became  rich  and  powerful ;  and, 
exciting  the  jealousy  of  the  crown,  the  king  was  appointed 
their  grand  master  two  centuries  after  their  foundation.  His 
Majesty  found  no  difficulty  in  disposing  of  the  superfluous 
wealth  of  the  order;  which,  having  fulfilled  the  object  of  its 
existence,  soon  fell  into  decay.  They  have  left  here  a  splen- 
did convent,  containing  their  church,  with  the  tombs  of  many 
of  the  soldier-monks. 

The  great  sight  of  Alcantara  is  the  bridge,  which,  I  think,  is 
the  most  remarkable  in  the  world.  It  bestrides  a  gorge  with 
walls  of  solid  rock,  through  which  rolls  the  lordly  Tagus ;  and 
the  river  expands  into  a  lake  above  it.  It  is  very  deep,  and  is 
said  to  rise  in  a  freshet  to  the  height  of  a  hundred  and 
seventy  feet.  There  are  six  arches,  the  two  central  ones  hav- 
ing a  span  of  a  hundred  and  ten  feet;  and  it  is  two  hundred 
and  ten  feet  from  the  parapet  to  the  water  in  the  ordinary 
stage  of  the  latter.  The  architect  has  given  his  name  to 
posterity  in  the  inscription  near  the  entrance :  — 

"PONTKM    PERPKTUI    MAXSTTRrM    TN    SErTTT,A 
FECIT    D1VIXA    XOliIL.18    AUTE    LACElt." 


IX. 


organization  of  military  orders,  it  is  well  known, 
dates  from  the  time  when  not  only  Spain,  but  Europe 
also,  was  threatened  with  an  irruption  of  Moslems,  whose 
efforts  were  directed  towards  the  supplanting  of  the  cross  by  the 
crescent.  The  domination  of  Christianity  being  threatened, 
there  sprang  into  existence  the  Templars,  the  Hospitallers, 
the  orders  of  Santiago,  of  Calatrava,  of  Alcantara,  and  others, 
which,  with  true  military  foresight,  carried  the  war  into  Asia, 
there  to  fight  the  battle  to  the  end,  their  vows  compelling 
them  never  to  make  peace  or  truce  with  the  infidel.  The  cru- 
saders, who  are  generally  but  erroneously  thought  to  have 
been  barbarians,  fanatics,  or  enthusiasts,  gave  to  the  European 
peoples  the  much-required  ascendency  over  the  hordes  of  Islam. 
They  stimulated  the  military  spirit  and  strengthened  it,  united 
Christians  fraternally,  and  made  of  them  a  homogeneous  and 
compact  brotherhood.  They  developed  the  dormant  senti- 
ments of  the  human  mind,  improved  the  condition  of  the  serfs, 
and  slowly  but  surely  undermined  the  feudal  system.  They 
created  navies  (witness  the  knights  of  St.  John),  encouraged 
commerce  and  manufactures,  and  gave  society  a  powerful 
impulse  in  the  direction  of  enlightenment. 

For  themselves,  the  military  orders  renounced  all  those 
things  which  command  the  exertions  of  mankind,  being  vowed 
to  celibacy,  poverty,  and  obedience,  many  of  them  condemning 
themselves  to  perpetual  mendicity.  They  also  spread  them- 

69 


60  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

selves  everywhere,  laboring  to  convert  souls  to  Christ,  and 
devoting  their  most  strenuous  efforts  to  release  the  host  of 
captives  held  by  the  Mussulmans. 

Centuries  afterwards,  the  existence  of  the  Church  was  again 
threatened  by  the  schism  of  Luther :  and,  the  ancient  orders 
having  faUen  into  decay,  a  brilliant  Spanish  knight,  laying 
aside  his  carnal  arms,  betook  himself  to  a  preparatory  course 
of  prayer,  seclusion,  and  fasting ;  after  which  he  founded  the 
order  of  Jesus. 

At  this  juncture  fleshly  arms  were  unavailing  to  help  the 
Church  :  the  age  required  her  defenders  to  put  on  the  armor  of 
learning  and  astuteness.  The  mere  mention  of  the  name 
of  the  Jesuits  suffices  to  invoke  vague  fears  in  the  minds  of 
many,  —  a  sentiment  of  indefinable  dread,  as  of  an  irruption 
of  savage  Indians,  like  those  who  threatened  society  in  the 
early  days  of  our  republic.  We  are  as  alarmed  at  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  school  or  college  of  this  order  as  if  it  were  to  be 
made  the  means  of  our  enslavement.  Shutting  our  eyes  to  the 
vast  and  increasing  corruption  of  the  whole  machinery  of  our 
government,  the  open  bribery,  the  lack  of  education,  and  the 
predominance  of  ruffianism,  in  our  governing  classes,  we  cry 
out  against  the  dangers  of  priestcraft  with  furious  animosity. 

Men  do  not  despise  the  Jesuits:  they  fear  them.  It  may  be 
seen  immediately,  that  he  who  attacks  them  believes  himself 
opposed  to  no  insignificant  adversaries.  In  his  heart  he  be- 
lieves that  every  thing  relating  to  the  Jesuits  is  a  grave  matter, 
.  and  that  the  least  indulgence  of  them  is  dangerous,  the  least 
negligence  fatal. 

The  spirit  of  the  age  is  essentially  one  of  scientific  and 
literary  progress ;  and,  knowing  this,  the  Jesuits  act  accord- 
ingly. 

For  this  reason  so  many  learned  and  eminent  men  are  found 
among  them.  Their  knowledge  and  influence  are  always  ex- 
ercisecl  in  extending  the  beneficen,t  teachings  of  the  Church, 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  61 

in  pursuance  of  which  they  have  already  encompassed  the 
globe ;  and  having  preached  the  gospel  everywhere  in  person, 
and  not  by  the  distribution  of  books,  they  return  to  add  their 
valuable  treasures  of  experience  to  the  common  fund  of  science 
and  education.  These  are  the  crimes  for  which  they  cheerfully 
endure  obloquy,  persecution,  and  death. 

At  the  establishment  of  the  military  orders,  the  world  cried 
out,  "What  an  unnatural  alliance ! — the  ecclesiastical  character 
combined  with  that  of  the  soldier!  How  incompatible  !"  But 
it  was  soon  seen  that  those  institutions  were  in  conformity 
with  the  natural  order  of  things  at  that  period.  It  was  a 
strong  remedy  for  immense  evils,  which  threatened  anarchy, 
and  retarded  civilization.  And  so  with  the  foundation  of 
the  order  of  Jesus.  Men  could  not  successfully  combat  their 
arguments,  or  vanquish  them  in  the  field  of  controversy :  so 
they  cried  out  against  their  influence  over  the  mind. 

And  still  the  most  prejudiced  cannot  deny  that  these  orders 
of  which  I  have  spoken  all  acted  with  utter  self-abnegation, 
and  that  through  their  efforts  much  good  was  effected,  while 
in  their  institution  and  action  we  plainly  see  the  finger  of 
God  directing  them. 

Returning  from  this  little  digression,  we  will  resume  our 
itinerary. 

After  leaving  Alcantara,  we  were  ferried  over  the  Tagus, 
and  took  the  road  to  Placencia,  passing  through  Coria,  famous 
for  its  Pelasgian  walls  thirty  feet  in  thickness,  and  a  remark- 
able tower  of  the  middle  ages,  a  fine  example  of  Gothic  con- 
struction, with  corner  bartizans  and  machicolated  summit. 

We  entered  Placencia  to  the  sound  of  the  cathedral-bells 
sweetly  singing  the  Angelus,  and  rode  at  once  to  the  posada, 
which  we  found  very  comfortable.  We  were  served  with  an 
excellent  supper,  including  a  dish  of  the  delicate  trout  of  the 
•v,.  vicinity,  famous  for  their  size  and  flavor,  and  with  the  fine 
wine  of  the  country.  The  attendance  of  the  most  beautiful 

6 


62  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

young  woman  I  had  yet  seen  in  Spain  gave  a  zest  to  our 
repast. 

She  was  the  moza  of  the  posada :  she  had  large,  liquid  black 
eyes,  regular  and  pearly  teeth,  a  brilliant  complexion,  perfect 
figure,  and  an  abundant  glossy  black  chevelure. 

Even  the  usually  demure  Juanito  was  carried  away  by  the 
exquisite  loveliness  of  this  Estremenian  maid,  and  acknowl- 
edged, that,  even  in  his  own  province  of  Andalusia,  he  had 
never  seen  such  a  vision  of  beauty ;  "  Although,"  he  added 
deprecatingly,  "Que  lastima  falta  el  meneo  Andaluz ! " 
("  What  a  pity  she  should  want  the  graceful  carriage  of  an 
Andalusian ! ") 

In  the  morning,  leaving  Juanito  to  enjoy  the  society  of  the 
fair  maid  of  the  inn,  I  sallied  forth  with  a  person  I  picked  up, 
who  had  nothing  better  to  do,  —  there  are  always  plenty  such 
in  Spain,  and  really  intelligent  ones  too,  —  to  view  the  sights 
of  Placencia. 

The  old  town  is  indeed  "  pleasant ; "  for  even  at  this  time, 
after  travelling  in  all  parts  of  the  wide  world,  both  before  and 
since  my  visit  to  it,  never  have  I  beheld  such  varied  changes 
of  view,  and  all  charming.  It  is  girdled  by  the  silver  Xerte  ; 
and  the  twin-valleys  of  the  Valle  and  La  Vera  are  perfect 
gems  of  landscape.  The  artist  will  find  here  all  scenic  acces- 
sories that  he  could  wish.  The  river,  the  rocks,  and  the  dis- 
tant mountains  of  the  Sierra  de  Bejar  and  de  la  Vera ;  the 
ancient  houses,  domes,  and  steeples  of  the  town ;  the  "  flanking 
walls  that  round  it  sweep ; "  city,  castle,  aqueduct  in  ruins,  and 
picturesque  figures  to  embellish  the  foreground  in  appropriate 
costume,  —  are  all  to  be  found  in  perfection.  Let  me  add  that 
the  climate  is  mild  and  salubrious,  and  the  sky  of  the  true 
ultramarine  tint ;  and  he  would  be  hard  to  please  indeed 
who  could  fail  to  find  here  subjects  for  his  pencil.  The 
scenery  far  exceeds  that  of  the  famed  Valley  of  the  Arno  in 
its  variety  and  richness. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  63 

This  part  of  Estremadura  is  fertile,  the  land  producing 
abundant  cereal  crops,  —  vegetables,  the  vine,  and  the  olive. 
Its  grazing-grounds  furnish  rich  pastures  for  cattle.  There  is 
good  shooting  in  the  neighborhood,  and  the  mountain-streams 
abound  in  trout.  No  wonder  Charles  V.  selected  it  as  the 
place  of  his  retirement,  familiar  though  he  was  with  every 
part  of  Europe.  I  ascended  to  the  roof  of  the  cathedral,  and 
stood  entranced  by  the  magnificent  and  smiling  panorama  of 
which  it  is  the  centre ;  and  again  climbed  to  it  on  the  morn- 
ing of  my  departure  to  carry  away  with  me  the  freshest  pos- 
sible memory  of  a  spot  so  lovely.  Thirty  years  have  elapsed 
since  that  last  look,  and  in  the  interval  I  have  seen  many  no- 
ble prospects ;  but  I  reflect  upon  fair  Placencia  as  surpassing 
them  all. 

It  is  eight  leagues  from  Placencia  to  Yuste, — the  retreat  of 
Charles  V., — which  I  intended  to  traverse  rapidly ;  but  was 
delayed  by  involuntary  halts  to  contemplate  the  ever-recur- 
ring and  varying  prospects  on  the  way. 

We  passed  and  exchanged  frequent  salutations  with  parties 
of  women  and  girls,  who  walked,  balancing  baskets  on  their 
heads.  They  were  carrying  provisions  to  their  male  relatives, 
the  vine-dressers,  who  were  busily  engaged  in  harvesting  the 
grape-crop  in  the  vineyards  of  the  Valley  of  the  Vera.  Mer- 
rily they  tripped  along,  clad  in  their  picturesque  costume,  with 
stockingless,  sandalled  feet,  beguiling  their  way  with  songs 
and  laughter.  It  seemed  like  a  scene  in  a  comic  opera. 

Arriving  shortly  after  noon  at  the  farm  of  Magdalena,  in 
sight  of  the  old  Convent  of  San  Geronimo  (the  emperor's  cele- 
brated retreat),  we  lunched  there  on  our  own  fare ;  after  which 
we  ascended  to  the  monastery.  I  was  so  lucky  as  to  secure 
as  cicerone  here  Father  Alonso  Caballero,  a  venerable  priest, 
who  took  holy  orders,  as  he  told  me,  in  October,  1778,  and  who 
showed  me  all  the  interesting  historical  places  of  the  convent- 
ual remains,  which  are  much  dilapidated. 


64  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

The  convent  is  entered  by  a  gateway ;  near  which  stands  a 
patriarchal  walnut-tree  called  the  nogal  grande,  under  which 
the  august  recluse  has  doubtless  often  mused.  The  church 
and  the  chambers  occupied  by  the  self-dethroned  emperor  are 
still  intact.  From  the  former  a  door  communicates  with  his 
bedroom ;  and  the  chamber  has  a  window  which  commands  a 
view  of  the  altar,  so  that  the  bed-ridden  monarch  could  wit- 
ness the  elevation  of  the  sacred  elements  in  the  mass.  Here 
also  hung  the  celebrated  Gloria  of  Titian,  as  we  are  told, 
which  accompanied  the  emperor  in  his  journeys,  and  upon 
which  his  last  gaze  was  devoutly  fixed. 

Charles  desired  that  this  picture  should  be  hung  wherever 
his  body  rested  after  death;  and  his  son,  Philip  II.,  trans- 
ferred it  to  the  Escorial.  Here  is  the  cabinet  of  the  emperor, 
and  several  other  rooms  with  fireplaces  in  them,  —  a  domestic 
luxury  rarely  seen  in  Spanish  houses,  —  the  brasero  being 
mostly  used.  The  windows  of  these  rooms  command  fine 
views ;  and  they  communicate  by  a  cloister  with  the  private 
garden,  in  which  still  may  be  seen  the  antique  sun-dial  of 
which  we  read  in  history.  The  emperor  did  not  long  enjoy 
the  pleasant  retirement  he  had  promised  himself  here ;  for  he 
died  in  about  a  year  after  taking  possession. 

In  reviewing  the  splendid  career  of  this  monarch, — if  I 
may  be  permitted  to  express  an  opinion,  —  I  should  say  that 
his  history  has  yet  to  be  written,  so  unjust,  querulous,  and 
fault-finding  have  been  those  who  have  hitherto  undertaken 
the  work.  This  is  especially  true  of  those  writers  who  are  ac- 
cepted authorities  in  this  country ;  for  in  considering  his  mo- 
tives and  actions  during  the  wars  he  waged,  —  chiefly  religious 
wars,  — they  do  not  seem  to  take  into  the  account  the  customs, 
manners,  and  sentiments  of  the  period.  In  laying  down  his 
imperial  power,  Charles  has  given  us  the  evidence  of  his  great- 
ness, even  had  he  not  been  born  to  a  throne;  for  the  step  was 
caused  by  no  morbid  misanthropy  or  disgust  with  the  world  in 


KEEL   AND  SADDLE.  65 

which  he  had  played  so  important  a  part.  His  retirement 
was  due  to  sheer  weariness  of  worldly  matters,  and  a  desire 
for  absolute  repose  and  reconcilement  with  Heaven,  before 
whose  tribunal  he  knew  he  must  soon  appear  to  render  an  ac- 
count of  his  stewardship.  He  wished  to  finish  his  reign  of 
sovereign  power,  during  which  he  had  overrun  civilized  Europe 
with  his  hardy  Spanish  veterans,  by  making  expiation  for  his 
sins  and  misdeeds  before  it  was  too  late.  He  set  about  this 
immediately  upon  arriving  at  Yuste,  and,  as  the  event  proved, 
not  a  moment  too  soon  for  his  salvation. 

By  the  kind  permission  of  the  good  prior,  I  slept  in  the 
bed-chamber  of  the  mighty  dead,  the  darkness  of  which  was 
somewhat  relieved  by  the  solitary  altar-lamp  shining  through 
the  window,  undisturbed  by  any  visions  of  its  former  occupant. 
In  the  early  morning  I  attended  the  first  mass,  being  one  in  a 
small  congregation  consisting  of  two  or  three  friars,  a  couple 
of  poor  women,  and  a  beggar.  At  the  termination  of  the  ser- 
vice, I  bowed  a  long  farewell  to  the  altar  upon  which  had  been 
fixed  the  last  dying  gaze  of  the  great  Charles  V.  Then, 
mounting  our  beasts,  we  slowly  recommenced  our  wayfaring 
eastward,  and  soon  bade  adieu  to  Estreuiadura,  and  entered 
the  kingdom  of  Toledo. 

0» 


X. 


OUR  next  halt  was  at  Talavera,  situated  on  the  Tagus,  in 
the  midst  of  a  beautiful  and  fertile  vega,  or  plain,  and 
famous  as  the  scene  of  the  battle  which  raised  Sir  Arthur 
Wellesley  to  the  peerage.  As  this  battle  is  so  well  described 
in  Napier's  excellent  "History  of  the  Peninsular  War,"  I 
merely  refer  the  reader  to  it,  as  giving  a  trustworthy  account 
of  the  success  of  a  campaign  which  seemed  to  be  already  lost 
by  Wellington,  but  in  which  Fortune,  proverbially  fickle  in 
war,  deserted  the  French  eagles,  to  perch  on  his  victorious 
standards. 

At  Talavera  I  reluctantly  discharged  my  mozo,  Juanito, 
who  was  long  enough  away  from  his  relatives,  and  who,  as 
he  told  me,  quiero  a  descanzarme  ("wished  to  rest  himself"). 
I  then  sold  my  animals,  and  proceeded  by  diligence  to  Madrid, 
stopping  a  couple  of,  days  at  Toledo  by  the  way. 

I  shall  not  describe  the  capital  city  of  Spain,  as  it  has  been 
already  "  done  "  so  often  by  travellers  and  tourists ;  and  will 
merely  say  that  there  are  many  other  cities  of  the  Peninsula 
decidedly  preferable  to  it  on  every  account.  It  is  notoriously 
an  unhealthy  place,  the  climate  being  subject  to  extreme 
variations  of  heat  and  cold ;  and  even  its  native  inhabitants 
have  to  go  about  embozado  (covering  the  mouth  with  the 
cloak). 

The   country  around  Madrid  is  desolate  and  inhospitable, 
and  its  situation  as  the  geographical  centre  of  Spain  is  a  dis- 
66 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  67 

advantage ;  for  all  supplies  coining  seaward  must  be  trans- 
ported at  immense  expense,  which  makes  it  the  dearest 
capital  in  Europe.  The  wealth  of  the  Spanish  capital  in  art- 
treasures  is  inestimable :  the  museo  contains  pictures,  even 
to  name  which  makes  the  eyes  of  the  connoisseur  glisten 
with  delight.  Here  is  that  celebrated  canvas  of  Velasquez, 
called  familiarly  "  Las  Lanzas,"  a  representation  of  the  sur- 
render of  Breda,  in  which  is  produced  the  curious  effect  of 
an  actual  glitter  of  the  lances  of  the  guard,  so  magical  are  the 
lights  and  shadows.  Here  also  is  that  picture  of  Raphael, 
known  as  the  "  Pearl,"  sold  by  Cromwell  to  Philip  IV.  for 
two  thousand  pounds,  and  which  the  present  British  Govern- 
ment would  be  too  happy  to  repurchase  at  fifty  times  that 
amount ;  the  Pasmo  de  Sicilia,  the  virgin  of  the  fish  ;  and 
Titian's  Charles  V.,  said  to  be  the  finest  equestrian  portrait  in 
the  world.  The  emperor  is  arrayed  in  the  suit  of  armor  still 
to  be  seen  in  the  royal  armory. 

The  collection  of  arms  and  armor  in  the  royal  palace  is  un- 
paralleled ;  and,  in  viewing  it,  one  is  carried  back  at  once  to 
the  heroic  age  of  Spain.  These  swords  and  lances  were 
wielded  by  her  noblest  champions ;  these  helmets  covered  the 
heads  of  her  wisest  warriors;  and  beneath  these  corselets  beat 
the  hearts  of  those  forever  famous  in  history,  and  embalmed 
in  poetry.  The  silent  but  eloquent  records  are  for  the  most 
part  genuine ;  and  the  flaunting,  moth-eaten  banners  on  the 
walls  were  actually  taken  from  the  enemies  of  Spain,  either 
Moslem  or  Christian. 

As  to  society,  there  are  few  dinner-parties  except  in  the 
foreign  diplomatic  circle ;  for  Spaniards  seldom  entertain  in 
that  manner  anywhere,  but  en  revanche  there  is  an  institu- 
tion of  a  national  character  well  worthy  of  imitation.  I 
refer  to  the  tertulia,  which,  as  in  other  Spanish  cities,  is  held 
every  evening  somewhere.  It  is  simply  a  meeting,  by  tacit 
understanding,  among  persons  of  the  same  social  circle  at 


(jg  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

each  other's  houses  in  rotation.  The  lady  of  the  house  is 
the  supreme  autocrat  of  the  evening  ;  even  its  master  consid- 
ering himself  merely  a  guest  for  the  time  being.  Having 
assembled  at  a  rather  early  hour,  the  ladies  amuse  them- 
selves with  cards,  conversation,  games,  or  music,  as  they 
please  ;  and,  the  gentlemen  arriving  later  in  the  evening,  these 
amusements  are  succeeded  by  quadrilles,  waltzes,  and  contra- 
danzas.  One  of  these  latter  is  known  in  America  as  the 
German ;  but,  years  before  its  introduction  here,  I  have  often 
seen  it  danced  in  Spain  at  tertulias  under  its  true  name, 
—  the  contradanza  EspanoL  No  entertainment  is  given 
at  the  tertulia,  the  rule  being  rigidly  enforced,  un  vaso  de 
agua  y  buen  venida  ("  a  glass  of  water  and  welcome  ").  Thus 
many  who  move  in  the  best  society,  who  may  indeed  possess 
fine  houses,  but  who  cannot  afford  to  provide  expensive 
entertainments,  are  not  therefore  "tabooed"  from  social 
enjoyment.  This  plan  also  saves  many  heart-burnings,  Mrs. 
B.  not  being  able  to  triumph  over  Mrs.  C.  in  the  elegance  and 
richness  of  her  viands. 

While  awaiting  the  orders  of  the  American  minister  I  had 
ample  time  for  seeing  all  the  sights  of  Madrid,  and  to  take 
part  in  the  amusements  of  the  capital.  I  also  visited  Cordova 
and  other  places  of  interest  in  the  South.  Granada  I  had 
already  seen ;  but,  as  they  are  so  well  described  by  others,  do 
not  deem  it  necessary  to  go  into  details  of  my  observations. 

As  the  time  of  my  departure  drew  near,  and  as  it  was  more 
desirable  than  ever  to  travel  on  horseback  on  account  of  the 
civil  war  then  raging  in  the  Peninsula  (the  diligence,  in 
addition  to  its  other  inconveniences,  being  alternately  robbed 
by  Christino  guerrillas  and  Carlist  bands),  I  frequented  the 
Puerta  del  Sol  daily  in  order  to  secure  attendants  for  my 
journey.  While  watching  one  day  the  empleomaniacos 
(office-seekers)  and  others  who  are  perpetually  engaged  in 
polishing  the  pavement  of  this  well-known  rendezvous  of  the 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  69 

Madrilefios,  chance  threw  in  my  way  the  very  man  I  wanted. 
Absorbed  in  my  contemplations,  I  was  saved  from  contact 
with  a  donkey  laden  with  firewood  by  a  robust  person  who 
swung  the  little  animal  clear  of  me  by  his  "  narrative  "  in  a 
nonchalant  style,  chaffing  his  driver  at  the  same  time  in 
terms  any  thing  but  complimentary.  I  accosted  this  person 
for  the  purpose  of  thanking  him  for  the  service  he  had 
rendered  me,  excusing  myself  for  my  abstraction. 

All  Spaniards,  high  and  low,  have  a  grave,  high-bred  air; 
and  my  unknown  friend  was  no  exception  to  the  rule.  I  saw 
at  the  first  glance  that  he  was  of  a  class  very  popular  in 
Spain,  although  not  of  the  highest  respectability.  He  was 
evidently  one  of  the  aficion,  or  what  we  should  call  the 
"  fancy ;  "  in  short,  a  toreador  (bull-fighter).  He  seemed 
about  forty.  His  round  bullet-head,  bald  on  the  forehead  and 
temples,  surmounted  by  the  Andalusian  montera ;  his  mutton- 
chop  whiskers  on  a  face  otherwise  cleanly  shaved ;  his  club- 
cue,  tied  with  a  black  ribbon ;  broad  shoulders ;  tapering 
waist ;  and  long  and  sinewy  arms,  shown  to  advantage  by  the 
majo  costume;  together  with  an  indescribable  jaunty  air,  —  all 
proclaimed  the  aficionado.  There  was  a  roguish  twinkle  in 
his  one  eye ;  and  I  observed  that  he  had  a  halting  gait,  the 
left  leg  being  bent  under  him,  and  shorter  than  its  companion. 

Having  frequently  seen  their  exhibitions  in  the  arena,  I 
had  acquired  a  strong  sympathy  with  this  class  of  people, 
inspired  by  the  very  manly  and  dashing  qualities  they  display 
in  pitting  their  skill  and  agility  against  the  mere  brute  force 
of  the  toro  (bull).  In  none  of  our  modern  games  can  be 
witnessed  a  greater  display  of  virile  courage,  nerve,  and 
dexterity,  than  in  the  Spanish  bull-fight.  Deprecate  it  as  we 
may,  it  is  a  nobler  test  than  the  disgraceful  "  P.  R."  tolerated 
among  us.  To  see  a  young,  graceful,  elegantly-attired  man, 
armed  only  with  a  slim,  shining  sword,  facing  a  huge,  fero- 
cious brute  of  twenty  times  his  strength,  awaiting  his  onset 


70  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

with  a  keen,  determined  glance,  relying  only  on  his  eye  and 
agile  muscle,  yet  confident  in  his  ability  to  slay  his  powerful 
adversary,  is  a  truly  thrilling  spectacle.  And  when  the  hull, 
confiding  in  his  strength,  lowers  his  stately  head,  levels  his 
long  sharp  horns,  and  rushes  upon  the  man  as  if  to  sweep 
him  out  of  existence  in  a  moment,  the  toreador,  stepping 
lightly  aside,  masks  the  furious  animal  with  his  capo, ;  while  in 
the  same  instant  the  keen  weapon,  quick  as  the  levin  bolt, 
pierces  the  spinal  process  at  the  nervous  centre,  and  the  bull 
falls  headlong,  to  die  in  a  few  minutes. 

I  soon  found  that  my  new  acquaintance  was  accustomed  to 
travel ;  having  already,  in  the  practice  of  his  calling,  visited 
every  part  of  the  kingdom,  even  so  far  as  remote  Galicia. 

By  his  references  I  also  learned  that  he  was  a  man  of 
courage  and  tact,  and  as  honest  and  truthful  as  could  be 
expected.  He  was,  too,  versed  in  cookery  and  in  foraging, 
—  no  mean  accomplishments  in  Spain.  He  had  recently 
been  severely  hurt  in  an  encounter  with  an  enraged  bull 
while  essaying  some  foolhardy  exploit ;  and  his  lameness  thus 
occasioned  disabled  him  from  appearing  in  the  cuadrilla.  He 
was  therefore  open  to  an  engagement,  which  I  soon  concluded 
with  him.  The  name  of  my  squire  was  Manuel  Blasco  y 
Gusman,  a  native  of  Triana,  a  suburb  of  Seville. 

I  was  amused  by  hearing  the  name  of  Gusman,  one  of 
the  noblest  lineages  of  Spain;  but  found  that  this  was  no 
uncommon  instance  of  a  lofty  patronymic  borne  by  a  person 
of  humble  station.  The  great  lords  of  ancient  days  often 
gave  their  names  to  their  slaves  upon  manumitting  them  ;  and 
some  of  these  latter,  becoming  famous,  were  ennobled  in  their 
turn :  which  complication  has  led  to  such  confusion  in  names, 
that  some  travellers  have  asserted  that  all  Spaniards  are  of 
noble  blood. 

Our  preparations  having  been  completed,  El  Tuerto  ("  the 
one-eyed  ")  and  myself,  followed  by  a  mozo  with  a  pack-mule, 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  71 

rode  out  of  Madrid  by  the  fine  road  connecting  the  city  with 
the  Escorial,  which  runs  for  some  distance  along  the  Manza- 
nares.  The  noble  bridge  across  that  stream,  with  its  tall 
bridge  house  and  stone  statues,  would  command  admiration 
if  it  only  bestrode  a  river;  for  the  muddy  gutter  which  creeps 
beneath  its  high  arches  seems  ashamed  of  its  own  insignifi- 
cance. The  country  is  barren,  and  the  population  sparse  and 
poor,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  capital ;  and  we  were  glad 
to  see  at  the  fifth  league  the  palace  of  the  Escorial  rising  in 
dreary,  solitary  state  by  the  side  of  the  lofty  sierra. 

By  invitation  of  an  officer  I  had  known  in  Madrid,  I  spent 
the  rest  of  the  day  and  night  in  this  magnificent  monument 
of  the  Spanish  kings,  which  contains  a  royal  palace,  a  mon- 
astery with  a  superb  church,  the  remains  of  a  fine  library,  and 
the  royal  mausoleum.  But  I  will  not  attempt  a  description 
of  the  Escorial ;  for  I  experienced  no  other  sentiment  than  that 
of  oppression  amid  its  gloomy  splendors.  It  is  seldom  used 
by  the  court,  and  remains  a  monument  of  misspent  millions, 
which,  used  in  almost  any  other  way,  might  have  unspeakably 
benefited  the  nation. 

We  resumed  our  journey  at  early  dawn,  taking  the  road 
which  ascends  circuitously  the  steep  and  rugged  sides  of  the 
Guadarrama  range,  and  arriving  before  noon  at  San  Ildefonso 
and  La  Granja.  This  chateau  en  Espagne  is  called  the 
"  castle  in  the  air,"  standing  nearly  four  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea-level,  and  is  a  truly  noble  royal  residence,  amid 
magnificent  alpine  scenery,  rocks,  forests,  and  waterfalls,  sur- 
rounding it  in  picturesque  profusion ;  while  above  all  towers 
the  lofty  peak  of  Peiialard  to  the  height  of  eight  thousand  feet. 

It  was  here  that  the  imbecile  Ferdinand  VII.  in  1832 
signed  the  obnoxious  decree  revoking  the  repeal  of  the  Salic 
law  ;  which,  however,  remained  but  a  short  time  in  force,  when 
he  again  repealed  it,  and  declared  Isabel  II.  his  successor ; 
which  measure  caused,  ultimately,  the  civil  war  now  raging. 


72  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

*••'"'  "  *  > 

The  artificial  accessories  of  this  royal  retreat,  including  the 
irrigation  of  the  gardens,  cascades,  canals,  and  fish-ponds,  are 
wonderfully  complete.  There  is  a  model  farm  in  a  sunny 
nook  called  La  Quinta  de  Quitapesares  ("  The  Farm  of  away 
with  Melancholy");  and  here  the  modern  Dido — Queen 
Christina  — first  met  her  Eneas,  — Munoz.  From  La  Granja 
we  descended  the  mountain  by  easy  grades ;  and  Manuel  Blasco 
enlivened  our  wayfaring  by  his  version  of  the  story  of  Dona 
Christina,  her  palace  intrigues  and  bold  strokes  of  policy  with 
silly  old  Ferdinand  VII.,  his  brother  Don  Carlos,  and  the 
soldier  Munoz.  His  being  also  the  popular  version,  I  shall 
give  it  hereafter. 

Before  he  had  finished  we  arrived  in  the  plain,  and  saw 
before  us  the  crumbling  walls  of  Segovia,  and  the  pointed  roofs 
of  the  towers  of  its  curious  alcazar,  called  by  Le  Sage,  in 
"  Gil  Bias,"  a  tower ;  though  there  are  several  included  in  the 
edifice. 

Having  refreshed  and  restored  ourselves,  we  took  our  way 
to  the  old  castle,  which  I  was  curious  to  inspect.  It  exhibits 
both  Gothic  and  Moorish  characteristics,  and  rests  upon  a 
Roman  foundation.  Its  keep  is  tall,  square,  and  massive,  with 
turrets  at  the  angles,  dating  back  to  the  twelfth  century,  and 
is  replete  with  historical  souvenirs. 

From  its  lofty  walls  the  worthy  and  magnificent  Isabel  the 
Catholic  was  proclaimed  Queen  of  Castile  ;  and  from  its  gate- 
way she  issued  alone,  on  horseback,  for  the  purpose  of  quelling 
a  mob,  which  she  awed  into  subjection  by  her  majestic  appear- 
ance and  strong  will. 

Here  Ripperda,  the  daring  minister  of  Charles  V.,  was  con- 
fined ;  and  here  came  Charles  I.  of  England,  a  suitor  for  the 
fair  hand  which  he  failed  to  obtain;  and  here,  too,  Gil  Bias 
was  confined,  as  we  are  told  in  his  veracious  autobiography. 

Beside  this  picturesque  and  venerable  relic  of  the  past 
glories  of  Castile  there  is  a  chapel  of  the  Templars,  a  Geron- 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  73 

imite  convent,  a  curious  little  church  built  on  the  model 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  the  ancient  mint,  which  in  former 
times  used  the  water-power  of  the  Eresma,  —  a  brawling  little 
brook  running  through  the  town :  it  is  probably  the  oldest 
mint  in  Europe.  The  Roman  aqueduct,  which  was  in  use  up 
to  1433,  when  it  was  repaired  by  Isabel  the  Catholic,  is  also 
interesting,  especially  to  an  engineer. 


XL 

AT  Segovia  I  met  with  Col.  Eeyes,  an  artillery-officer, 
with  whom  I  had  acquaintance  ;  and  as  he  was  conduct- 
ing several  batteries  and  some  recruits  to  the  army  of  Espartero, 
and  politely  invited  me  to  accompany  him  northwards,  I  ac- 
cepted the  offer,  rather  to  the  discontent  of  my  squire  El 
Tuerto,  who  was  a  Carlist  in  politics,  although  he  warily  con- 
cealed his  opinions.  We  accordingly  set  forth  together ;  and 
passing  by  Medina  del  Campo  and  Simancas,  in  the  castle  of 
which  latter  place  Col.  Reyes  kindly  aided  me  in  inspecting 
the  interesting  archives  there  deposited,  arrived  on  the  fourth 
day  at  Valladolid. 

In  the  fifteenth  century  this  was  without  a  peer  among 
Spanish  cities.  Says  the  proverb,  "  Villa  por  villa,  Valladolid 
in  Castilla ;  "  but  now  it  is  sadly  on  the  wane.  Its  inhabit- 
ants boast  themselves  as  genuine  old  Castilians  still,  and  are 
grave  and  formal,  all  hidalgos,  and,  let  us  add,  terrible  bores. 
Its  very  stones  are  historical,  as  is  well  known. 

I  here  took  leave  of  my  kind  friend  Col.  Reyes,  who  passed 
through  without  stopping,  but  not  until  he  had  introduced 
me  to  the  governor  and  some  other  valuable  acquaintances. 
Having  seen  the  various  sights  of  the  old  capital  of  Castile, 
I  prepared  to  prosecute  my  journey,  and  held  a  council  with 
Blasco  on  the  subject  of  our  route  to  the  north. 

The  man  of  the  single  eye  preferred  the  road  via  Lerma, 
with  which  he  was  familiar ;  "  And  besides,"  said  he,  "  we  shall 

74 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  75 

not  in  that  case  have  to  travel  with  chapelgorris  (Christine 
militia)  and  other  gente  sin  verguenza  (low  fellows),  but 
shall  have  the  road  to  ourselves."  He  also  urged  that  the 
main  road  to  Burgos  was  infested  with  highwaymen  and 
rateros  (foot-pads)  ;  adding  with  a  lofty  air,  "  I,  sir,  who 
address  you,  am  accustomed  to  the  society  of  cabatteros  (gen- 
tlemen) and  toreadores  valientes  (valiant  bull-fighters),  and, 
rather  than  travel  with  such  persons  as  we  have  been  with  for 
the  past  week,  would  much  prefer  to  be  alone  with  your  worship 
and  Pedro  the  mozo." 

These  and  other  cogent  reasons  were  urged  with  such  force 
by  El  Tuerto,  that  I  accepted  his  view  of  the  case,  although 
with  some  suspicion  that  he  had  a  private  purpose  to  serve 
by  diverging  from  the  usually-travelled  road. 

On  the  dawn  of  the  day  appointed,  I  arose,  performed  my 
toilet,  broke  my  fast,  and  awaited  the  appearance  of  Blasco 
with  the  beasts  ;  but  he  did  not  arrive.  At  last  Pedro  came, 
and  said  that  my  squire  had  been  arrested  on  the  evening 
before,  and  was  now  in  prison  awaiting  trial  for  his  life  by 
a  military  commission.  His  alleged  crime  was  an  aggravated 
assault  on  a  sergeant  of  artillery.  In  Spain,  summary  execu- 
tion so  often  follows  an  arrest  in  times  like  the  present,  that 
I  was  seriously  alarmed,  and  immediately  went  to  visit  poor 
Blasco  at  the  carcel  militar,  expecting  to  find  him  in  the 
depths  of  despair.  On  the  contrary,  he  was  neither  penitent, 
nor  in  the  least  alarmed ;  carelessly  puflfing  his  cigarette,  and 
laughing  at  the  suggestion  that  he  was  in  peril.  He  regretted 
extremely  that  he  should  have  caused  me  the  least  inconve- 
nience, but  expressed  no  apprehension  for  himself,  declaring 
that  the  commanding  general  would  set  him  at  liberty  imme- 
diately on  my  application  to  that  effect.  "  For,"  said  he,  "  you 
know,  teniente  mio  (my  lieutenant),  that  we  are  attached  to 
the  honorable  American  legation  near  su  mayestad  catolica, 
and  so  are  exempted  from  all  ordinary  interference  while  travel- 
ling on  service." 


76  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

Blasco  was  right  in  his  conclusions  ;  for  my  application  to 
the  military  governor  was  successful,  and  the  order  for  his  lib- 
eration given  immediately. 

This  little  episode,  as  frequently  happens  in  like  cases,  was 
brought  about  by  the  universal  casus  belli,  —  a  woman.  My 
equire  was  a  devoted  ladies'  man,  as  I  had  already  observed ; 
and,  on  the  evening  in  question,  was  engaged  in  the  kitchen  of 
the  Fonda  up  to  a  late  hour,  entertaining  the  cook.  The 
sergeant  of  artillery  entered,  and  joined  in  the  conversation, 
doubtless,  as  M.  de  Trop.  The  seance  continued  peaceably 
enough  until  an  argument  arose  between  the  two  gentlemen 
concerning  the  merits  of  their  respective  provinces,  the  ser- 
geant being  a  Galician. 

After  disparaging  Andalusia  and  her  sons  at  some  length, 
the  sergeant  became  personal,  and  drew  forth  a  bitter  retort 
upon  the  Spanish  Boeotia  (Galicia)  from  El  Tuerto,  who,  an- 
swering the  reflections  on  his  province  and  the  contemp- 
tuous allusion  of  the  sergeant  to  his  single  eye  at  one  blow, 
with  characteristic  wit  repeated  the  proverb,  "  En  la  tierra  de 
los  ciegos,  el  tuerto  es  rey"  ("In  the  land  of  the  blind,  the 
one-eyed  is  king"). 

The  soldier  rejoined  by  applying  to  Blasco  a  name  which 
signifies  a  bull  which  shrinks  from  encountering  his  enemies 
in  the  arena,  —  un  blando.  To  call  a  man  by  such  a  name  in 
the  presence  of  a  lady  was  to  inflict  an  unbearable  insult.  The 
aficionado  rose  from  his  seat,  moved  towards  his  rival,  and 
addressed  him:  "Know,  friend  sergeant,  that  I  am  not  a 
blando,  but  that  I  am  duro  chocante,  camicero  y  pegajoso  " 
(a  bull  which  kills  horses,  upsets  the  bull-fighters,  and  clears 
the  arena),  in  the  slang  of  the  plaza  de  toros,  at  the  same  time 
giving  the  soldier  a  sound  box  on  the  ear. 

The  latter  sprang  up,  and  drew  his  sword  ;  but  the  one-eyed 
man,  quick  as  lightning,  disarmed  and  overthrew  him,  placing 
his  foot  upon  his  neck.  The  cook  screamed  murder.  Servants, 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  77 

soldiers,  and  outsiders  generally,  hurried  to  the  scene,  but  stood 
shrinking  before  El  Tuerto,  who  faced  them,  his  foot  on  his 
foe,  his  one  eye  glittering  with  rage,  and  his  sabre  describing 
the  moulinet  round  his  head. 

At  last  the  patrol  appeared,  commanded  by  an  officer :  but 
even  to  him  Blasco  refused  to  surrender  save  on  terms  of 
honorable  capitulation ;  these  being,  that  his  opponent  should 
be  placed  in  arrest,  while  he  himself  should  be  put  in  the 
military  prison,  instead  of  the  calabozo,  the  latter  being  the 
place  of  incarceration  of  vulgar  criminals.  His  conditions 
being  allowed,  he  gracefully  yielded  his  sword  to  the  officer. 

This  weighty  matter  having  been  brought  to  a  satisfactory 
conclusion,  our  little  cavalcade  set  forth,  contrary  to  our  usual 
custom,  in  the  afternoon ;  and  that  night  we  slept  at  the  vil- 
lage of  Olivares,  at  the  house  of  some  one  whom  I  took  to  be 
an  intimate  friend  of  Blasco,  judging  from  the  hearty  accolade 
between  them  upon  meeting,  —  a  welcome  also  warmly  con- 
firmed by  the  friend's  wife,  with  whom  my  companion's  rela- 
tions must  have  been  exceedingly  friendly ;  for  he  retired  with 
her  to  the  kitchen,  and,  by  their  joint  efforts,  an  excellent 
supper  was  soon  provided.  Next  morning  we  took  the  road, 
and  arrived  before  noon  at  Aranda  on  the  Duero.  Here  my 
guide  turned  aside  from  the  camino  real  running  from  Ma- 
drid to  Burgos,  and  led  us  through  a  most  romantic  country,  in 
which  each  step  revealed  an  ever-changing  prospect,  to  Penar- 
anda  del  Duero,  which  we  reached  about  two,  P.M. 

Having  rested  at  the  humble  posada  of  the  little  village,  I 
strolled  forth  to  inspect  a  ruined  castle  I  had  observed 
perched  upon  a  bold  hill,  the  base  of  which  was  surrounded  by 
dilapidated,  Prout-like  houses,  about  which  lounged  beggars  in 
Murillo-like  rags. 

"  This,"  said  Blasco,  "  is  Penaranda  de  la  perra,  from  a 
tradition  which  says  that  the  Moors  once  held  the  castle  obsti- 
nately,  being   besieged   by   the   Christians  with   unavailing 
7* 


78  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

patience,  until  one  day  some  of  the  besiegers  saw  a  bitch 
(perra)  move  out  of  a  hole,  which  was  a  secret  passage  into 
the  castle,  and  which  they  marked  well.  That  night  a  forlorn 
hope  entered  the  stronghold  by  this  passage  ;  and,  the  assault 
being  given  at  the  same  time,  the  fortress  was  taken,  and  its 
garrison  put  to  the  sword.  The  castle  is  the  casa  solar,  or 
family  seat,  of  the  Zunigas,  counts  of  Miranda." 

Ourselves  and  our  beasts  having  been  refreshed,  we  mounted, 
and  rode  leisurely  northward  through  a  fine  country.  Having 
a  long  ride  before  us,  and  being  inclined  to  conversation,  I 
dropped  alongside  of  my  squire,  and  offered  him  an  excellent 
puro  of  Havana,  which  always  put  him  in  a  cheerful  mood.  The 
Spaniards,  generally,  retain  many  of  the  Oriental  customs  and 
manners,  and,  among  these,  have  a  great  weakness  for  stories, 
both  as  narrators  and  listeners.  This  is  especially  true  of  the 
Andalusians,  who,  born  in  the  land  of  the  Moors,  and  nearer 
the  sun  than  others  of  their  countrymen,  partake  in  a  greater 
degree  of  the  temperament  of  their  former  Moslem  masters. 
These  cosas  de  Espana  are  often  mentioned  by  foreign  writers ; 
and  all  the  world  knows  that  these  propensities  have  brought 
upon  the  Andalusians  the  satire  of  their  neighbors,  the 
French:  indeed,  but  for  them,  we  should  never  have  had 
the  wonderful  exploits  of  Don  Quixote,  as  detailed  for  the 
world's  amusement  by  the  immortal  Cervantes. 

Blasco  was  somewhat  given  to  story-telling :  and,  having 
gently  urged  him  to  exercise  his  power  in  this  direction,  I  was 
not  surprised  that  the  dreamy  air  of  the  autumnal  weather 
seemed  to  stimulate  his  faculties,  as  he  withdrew  his  cigar 
from  his  lips,  and  answered  me,  "  It  always  saddens  me, 
seiior  mio,  to  contemplate  such  ruins  as  those  we  saw  to-day, 
even  for  the  fortieth  time  ;  and  I  cannot  help  figuring  to  my- 
self the  persons  who  once  occupied  them,  who  wept,  or  were 
merry,  and  who,  perchance,  thought  the  same  thoughts  that 
we  are  thinking,  or  suffered  the  same  griefs  and  enjoyed  the 
same  pleasures  that  are  ours. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  79 

"  The  place  we  have  just  left  behind  has  its  traditions  of  a 
past  generation  ;  and  I  shall  be  happy  to  relate  to  your  wor- 
ship, if  you  have  the  patience  to  listen  to  a  story  of  the 
country,  a  tale  of  events  which  happened  in  the  very  neigh- 
borhood." 

I  gladly  assented  to  the  proposition  of  my  worthy  squire ; 
and  Manuel  Blasco,  signing  to  Pedro  to  approach  nearer  in 
order  to  give  him  what  he  knew  would  be  a  gratification,  be- 
gan his  story.  It  is  impossible  for  me  to  give  the  reader  an 
idea  of  the  air  and  gesticulation  of  the  narrator,  or  to  convey 
to  the  ear  his  sonorous  tones  as  he  rolled  out  the  magniloquent 
Castilian  sentences  of  his  romance ;  but  I  will  endeavor,  in 
the  following  chapter,  to  give  his  story  an  English  transla- 
tion. 


XII. 

"  "Ti  T~ANY  years  ago,  when  Moor  and  Christian  were  still 
_1_V_1_  contending  for  the  possession  of  the  Peninsula,  the 
town  and  castle  of  Penaranda  were  held  in  fief  by  Baltazar 
de  Zuniga,  Count  of  Miranda.  You  may  yet  see  his  totnb 
at  the  colegiata  in  the  village,  and  that  of  his  wife,  with 
others  of  that  ancient  family. 

"  Count  Baltazar  was  a  dissipated  young  man,  and  passed  his 
time  mostly  in  hunting  and  chivalric  employments,  varied  by 
frequent  carousals  with  his  riotous  and  debauched  companions, 
making  love  to  all  the  pretty  women  of  the  neighborhood,  and 
availing  himself  to  the  letter  of  his  feudal  derechos  de  senor 
(seignorial  rights).  After  succeeding  to  the  titles  and  estates, 
he  began  the  burning  of  the  candle  at  both  ends ;  and  his 
course  of  profligacy  at  last  alienated  from  him  all  his  respect- 
able friends.  The  only  ones  who  remained  to  him  were  the 
drunkards  and  gamblers,  whose  society  he  seemed  to  prefer. 

"As  might  be  expected,  he  finally  squandered  all  the  ready 
money  left  him  by  his  father,  and  all  he  could  borrow  on  his 
personal  property  ;  but  the  fief  of  Penaranda,  being  a  mayo- 
razzo  (entailed  estate),  he  could  not  alienate. 

"  His  creditors,  the  Jews,  held  the  count  in  great  dread  ;  for 
when  they  came  up  to  the  castle  to  dun  him  for  the  payment 
of  their  dues,  loaned  on  usurious  terms,  he  worried  them  griev- 
ously with  his  boon  companions,  and  sometimes  kicked  them 
down  the  superb  staircase  you  were  to-day  admiring  into 
80 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  81 

the  court -yard,  whereby  their  bones  were  often  seriously 
damaged. 

"  I  pointed  out  to  your  worship,  as  we  passed  it,  the  ancient 
Convent  of  San  Domingo  de  Silos,  the  tutelar  of  which  worked 
many  miracles  in  his  lifetime,  and  delivered  so  many  captives 
from  slavery  in  Africa,  that,  in  gratitude,  they  performed  pil- 
grimages thither  to  hang  up  their  chains  at  the  gates.  The 
abbot  was  not  free  from  the  popular  contempt  for  the  Jews,  and 
upheld  his  neighbor  the  count  in  this  treatment,  who,  he  de- 
clared, was  an  example  of  feudal  and  seignorial  excellence  in 
his  just  scorn  of  the  Hebrews ;  and  he  counselled  Don  Baltazar 
to  go  on  with  the  good  work.  He  further  told  the  count,  that, 
in  order  to  carry  out  this  work,  he  ought  to  take  the  cross 
without  delay,  and  proceed  to  Granada,  where  our  sovereign 
lord  and  lady,  Ferdinand  and  Isabel,  were  prosecuting  a  holy 
war.  There,  while  slaying  infidels,  he  would  undoubtedly, 
at  the  same  time,  acquire  great  store  of  treasure,  wherewith, 
returning  to  his  native  heritage,  he  might  enjoy  ana  vida 
descansada  (a  lifelong  rest). 

"Don  Baltazar,  convinced  of  the  excellence  of  the  worthy 
prelate's  advice,  both  spiritual  and  worldly,  immediately  assem- 
bled his  vassals,  put  on  his  armor,  and  departed  for  the  land  of 
the  infidel,  to  the  great  joy  of  all  his  neighbors  and  most  of 
his  friends.  Arriving  at  his  destination,  he  set  to  work  vig- 
orously, slaying  Paynims,  sacking  towns  and  villages,  and 
conducting  himself  in  all  wajrs  like  a  valiant  Christian  knight. 

"  In  his  new  vocation,  which  was  very  agreeable  to  God,  the 
king,  and  himself,  Baltazar  gained  great  renown  as  a  good 
servant  of  the  Church  and  the  State,  after  the  fashions  of  the 
times.  He  also  amused  himself  much  in  that  distant  country ; 
oftener  giving  a  golden  ducat  to  a  pretty  girl  than  a  silver 
penny  to  a  beggar. 

"  Several  years  passed  by,  and  people  had  almost  ceased  talk- 
ing about  the  count  and  his  mad  pranks,  when  he  suddenly 


82  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

re-appeared  in  Penaranda  with  a  numerous  following  of  vassals 
and  foreign  slaves,  bearing  great  treasures  of  gold  and  precious 
stones,  the  spoils  of  war.  Those  who  had  come  back  without 
any  thing  save  wounds  and  holy  relics  were  consumed  with 
envy  at  the  count's  good  luck.  But,  you  know,  this  is  an 
envious  world.  The  very  first  meritorious  act  of  the  count 
was  to  add  liberally  to  the  wealth  and  possessions  of  the  Con- 
vent of  San  Domingo ;  to  atone,  as  he  avowed,  for  the  sins  of 
his  early  life.  It  has  also  come  down  to  us,  that,  from  a  prof- 
ligate and  graceless  youth,  the  count  grew  to  be  a  good  and  wise 
man,  and  was  completely  reconciled  to  God  and  the  Church. 

"  The  king  made  him  a  commander  of  Santiago,  and  captain- 
general  of  the  district ;  and  he  conducted  himself  with  such 
discretion  in  his  high  office,  that  he  was  soon  greatly  beloved. 
Instead  of  being  choleric,  as  in  his  youth,  he  became  gentle 
in  his  deportment ;  and  the  change  confirmed  the  saying,  that 
'gray  hairs  bring  wisdom.'  The  only  thing  that  seemed  to 
ruffle  his  temper  was  disrespectful  mention  of  God  or  holy 
things  :  any  one  guilty  of  such  an  offence  he  would  drive 
ignominiously  from  his  presence,  the  old  Adam  re-appearing  as 
in  the  days  of  his  hot  youth. 

"He  repaired  and  added  to  the  castle,  and  furnished  it  anew 
in  a  royal  manner,  astonishing  the  neighbors  with  its  Sara- 
cenic splendor.  He  greatly  ameliorated  the  condition  of  his 
serfs,  established  mills  on  his  domains,  and  increased  his 
flocks  and  herds.  By  stimulating  agriculture,  and  otherwise 
improving  his  seignorial  fiefs,  he  soon  augumented  their  value 
and  population  ;  and  at  any  time  could  have  summoned  to  his 
banner  a  thousand  fighting-men  from  his  own  domains.  In 
such  good  works  did  the  Count  of  Miranda  grow  oMoipon  his 
estates,  governing  his  vassals  paternally  and  benevolently,  and 
administering  impartial  justice  as  their  lord  and  suzerain. 

"Sometimes,  however,  he  put  in  execution  his  right  to  hang 
incorrigible  criminals,  when  justly  convicted  before  his  judg- 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  83 

ment  seat ;  thus  vindicating  the  majesty  of  the  law  and  his 
feudal  privileges.  He  was  especially  rigid  with  all  robbers  and 
marauders,  saying  that  they  were  to  be  regarded  as  wicked 
beasts  of  prey;  and  summarily  consigning  them  to  the  gallows, 
which  stood  before  the  castle-gates.  Justice  having  been  dealt 
upon  them,  he  permitted  their  bodies  to  be  buried  in  consecrated 
ground,  declaring  that  they  were  sufficiently  punished  by  the 
loss  of  life.  He  continued  to  persecute  the  Jews,  it  is  true, 
but  only  when  they  were  bloated  with  ill-gotten  wealth:  and 
until  they  had  acquired  it  by  usury,  and  waxed  fat,  he  let  them 
severely  alone  ;  then  he  pounced  upon  and  despoiled  them  for 
the  profit  of  the  church  and  the  king,  reserving  a  small  share 
for  himself.  This,  with  grim  wit,  he  styled  tax-gathering. 

"  Thus  this  bluff  and  hearty  lord  acquired  the  esteem  of  every 
one  in  his  district,  rich  and  poor,  great  and  small,  by  his  pro- 
tection of  life  and  property.  The  consciousness  of  duty  per- 
formed gave  cheeriness  to  his  visage  ;  and  the  Abbot  of  San 
Domingo  coming  to  visit  him  one  day,  and  remarking  this, 
accosted  the  count  with,  '  Ha,  ha,  my  good  lord !  you  are 
merry:  you  must  have  had  some  one  hanged  to-day.' 

"  When,  attended  by  his  train,  mounted  on  the  strong  white 
hackney  he  brought  from  the  land  of  the  infidel,  he  passed 
through  the  village,  the  children  would  run  fearlessly  by  the 
side  of  the  cavalcade,  and  shout,  '  Ah,  ha !  this  is  court  day ; 
here  is  the  Senor  Coude :  buenos  dias,  Senor  Conde ! '  And 
the  old  count  would  smile  graciously,  and  say  to  them  gayly, 
'  Amuse  yourselves  well,  my  children.'  And  they,  '  Ah !  si, 
si,  Senor  Conde.'  Thus  every  thing  seemed  to  prosper  with  the 
count,  who  was  now  an  old  man  with  a  venerable  white  beard. 

"  In  those  days,  besides  the  marauding  bands,  the  curse  of 
the  period,  who  avoided  the  count's  jurisdiction,  there  roamed 
about  vagabond  gitanos,  or  Egyptians,  as  they  do  now  in 
Spain,  who  are  not  of  our  blessed  faith,  mocking  at  it  when 
they  can  do  so  with  impunity  ;  and  one  of  these  bands  came 


84  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

to  Penaranda  on  the  Eve  of  St.  John.  They  encamped  on  the 
plaza,  and  were  seen  by  some  of  the  villagers  scoffing  at  the 
statue  of  our  Blessed  Lady ;  one  of  them,  a  very  pretty  young 
woman,  dancing  and  posturing  in  very  abbreviated  garments. 
For  this  sacrilege  it  was  agreed  by  the  authorities  that  she 
should  be  burned  as  a  wicked  spawn  of  the  Devil,  —  a  fate  not 
uncommonly  meted  out  to  these  heathens  in  those  days. 

"  But  the  old  count  came  to  the  rescue,  and  by  his  logic 
proved  to  the  people  that  it  would  be  a  much  more  agreeable 
thing  to  our  Blessed  Lady  to  rescue  this  poor  lost  soul  from 
the  claws  of  Satan,  and  to  convert  her  to  the  true  faith,  as  the 
fagot  would  only  consume  her  body,  without  burning  the  devil 
who  inhabited  it,  and  her  soul  would  be  lost  forever. 

"  The  matter  having  been  referred  to  the  archbishop,  the 
count's  reasoning  was  found  to  be  sound,  his  conclusions  wise, 
and  even  canonical,  and  in  conformity  with  Christian  charity 
and  the  holy  evangel.  But  the  ladies  of  the  town  and  other 
respectable  persons  loudly  proclaimed,  that,  by  the  change  of 
programme,  they  would  be  deprived  of  a  gran  funcion  ;  also 
urging  that  the  proposed  conversion  of  the  gitano  would  be 
merely  nominal  and  insincere.  Perhaps  they  had  reason ; 
for  the  girl,  deprived  of  her  liberty  and  the  free  air  and  light 
to  wh.ich  she  had  been  accustomed,  was  as  impatient  of  duress 
as  a  young  kid,  and  passed  her  time  in  weeping,  refusing  food, 
and  bemoaning  her  hard  fate  continually.  '  So,'  said  the  gos- 
sips, 'she  will  pretend  to  be  converted,  if  only  to  recover  her 
liberty.' 

^  To  this  the  count  replied,  that,  should  the  unfortunate 
Stranger  wish  to  embrace  our  religion,  he  would  give  them  a 
much  more  splendid  ceremony  than  the  auto  dafe  they  antici- 
pated, making  it  the  occasion  for  even  royal  festivities ;  and 
that  he  himself  would  stand  godfather  to  the  new  convert. 

"  The  Morisca  did  not  hesitate  between  the  fagot  and  bap- 
so  she  was  placed  in  a  convent  near  by,  the  sisterhood 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  85 

of  which  undertook  to  prepare  her  for  her  new  destiny.  Here, 
in  due  season,  she  took  the  vows  of  holiness,  and  was  baptized 
and  confirmed ;  while  at  the  first  ceremony  there  was  a  great 
feast,  with  dancing  and  revelry,  in  honor  of  the  Church  and  the 
new  convert,  at  the  count's  expense.  The  promise  of  the 
latter  was  thus  nobly  redeemed ;  the  festivities  being  indeed 
of  royal  magnificence,  and  even  commended  by  the  party  origi- 
nally in  favor  of  burning. 

"  Now,  at  the  baptismal  feast,  the  count,  acting  as  godfather, 
had  for  comadre  (godmother)  a  very  beautiful  young  lady,  the 
daughter  of  one  of  his  oldest  and  most  valued  friends,  an  an- 
cient comrade  in  the  Crusade,  the  Lord  of  Aranda. 

"  Your  worship  well  knows  how  sacred  and  intimate  with  us 
in  Spain  is  the  relation  between  compadre  and  comadre,  and 
how  that  connection  confers  peculiar  privileges.  The  Lord  of 
Aranda,  having  assumed  the  cross  at  the  same  time  with  the 
count,  was  taken  prisoner,  and  was  still  held  captive  for  lack 
of  means  to  pay  the  heavy  ransom  demanded,  which  was  the 
greater  in  that  he  was  a  most  doughty  and  valorous  knight. 
His  wife,  the  Lady  of  Aranda,  had  pledged  all  the  revenues 
of  her  fief  with  the  Jews,  hoping  to  accumulate  the  necessary 
sum,  and  lived  with  her  daughter  in  humble  lodgings  in  the 
village,  with  scarce  a  blanket  to  her  bed,  but  proud  as  the 
Queen  of  Sheba,  and  brave  as  a  lioness  in  the  good  cause  she 
had  undertaken. 

"  Seeing  her  ill-concealed  distress,  the  old  count  bethought 
himself  of  acquiring  the  right  to  serve  this  admirable  lady  by 
inducing  her  daughter  to  become  his  comadre  at  the  baptism 
of  the  Egyptian ;  for  those  old  nobles  were  very  punctilious. 
The  worthy  Count  Baltazar  had  another  object  in  view;  and 
at  the  wedding  clasped  a  heavy  gold  chain  round  the  neck  of 
his  fair  comadre,  to  which  he  would  have  been  but  too  happy 
to  add  his  broad  domains,  his  good  sword,  his  white  beard, 
and  his  white  hackney,  so  well  known  in  the  country  round. 
8 


XIII. 


Count  of  Miranda  had  of  late  years  perceived  that 
JL  he  actually  required  a  wife  to  assist  him  in  ruling  over 
his  manorial  possessions  ;  and  it  saddened  him  to  think  of  his 
approaching  senility,  while  his  desires  governed  him  tyran- 
nically as  do  those  of  all  old  men.  So,  during  the  festivi- 
ties, he  thought  of  his  wounds,  and  of  the  eighty  years  that 
had  passed  over  his  head,  and  of  the  feebleness  that  pre- 
vented him  from  joining  in  the  dance,  in  which  the  young 
Lady  of  Aranda  floated  with  the  grace  of  Psyche.  The  count 
also  reflected,  that,  if  he  was  ever  to  enter  into  the  state  of 
matrimony,  he  had  no  time  to  lose  ;  and,  to  shorten  a  long 
story,  he  proposed  to  the  mother  of  the  young  lady,  was 
accepted,  and  the  marriage  followed  in  as  short  a  time  as 
it  could  be  accomplished  by  the  rules  of  the  Church. 

"  The  lovely  Inez  de  Aranda  was  only  eighteen  at  the  time 
of  her  union  with  the  count,  beautiful  as  a  vision,  graceful 
as  an  Andalusian,  as  full  of  life  and  gayety  as  a  young 
mountain-kid,  and  blessed  with  a  physical  organization  that 
defied  all  bodily  fatigue.  She  would  run  all  day  long  in 
chase  of  butterflies,  or  romping  with  her  young  companions  ; 
and  then  dance  all  night,  if  permitted,  without  the  least  sign 
of  weariness.  With  all  her  gayety  and  high  spirits,  she  had 
been  most  carefully  brought  up  by  her  mother;  and  never 
had  an  unmaidenly  or  impure  thought  been  permitted  to 
enter  that  snowy  bosom.  She  had  not  the  remotest  idea  of 
86 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  87 

the  passion  of  love,  both  her  mind  and  hody  being  virgin  to 
every  coarse  sentiment ;  and  she  needed  only  wings  to  make 
her  fit  for  a  denizen  of  paradise. 

"  Such  was  the  fair  young  creature  who  suddenly  quitted  her 
humble  abode  to  become  the  Countess  of  Miranda.  Lowly 
and  innocent  as  she  was,  she  did  not  escape  the  ill-will  of  all 
the  young  ladies  of  the  district.  They  envied  her  for  the 
long  blonde  tresses,  of  which  she  had  made  a  net  to  catch  her 
superannuated  lover ;  for  the  robe  of  rich  stuff  trimmed  with 
gold,  a  la  antique  ;  the  magnificent  jewels  presented  by  him  ; 
and  even  the  great  golden  chain  of  the  Saracen  emir,  which 
now  bound  her  irrevocably  to  the  old  count. 

"  The  nuptials  were  celebrated  in  a  manner  becoming  the 
lordly  house  of  Zuniga,  the  old  nobleman  being  attired  in  a 
gorgeous  wedding-suit.  But  the  contrast  between  her  bloom 
and  his  wrinkles,  his  tottering  gait  and  her  agile  and  graceful 
movements,  was  too  palpable  not  to  be  noticed  and  com- 
mented upon.  At  the  sound  of  the  marriage-bells  ringing  a 
joyous  peal,  the  gay  procession,  and  all  the  pomps  and  vani- 
ties of  the  ill-assorted  wedding,  the  ladies  before  mentioned 
were  seized  with  sudden  desires  for  crops  of  slain  Moors,  a 
deluge  of  rich  old  noblemen,  and  even  a  repetition  of  Egyp- 
tian baptisms. 

"  Immediately  after  the  marriage,  the  Lady  of  Aranda  re- 
ceived from  her  son-in-law  a  notable  sum  of  money;  with 
which  she  set  out  for  Granada  to  ransom  her  husband  from 
captivity,  escorted  to  the  frontier  by  the  armed  vassals  of  Mi- 
randa. She  took  leave  of  her  daughter,  giving  her  into  the 
charge  of  the  count  with  a  recommendation  of  implicit  obe- 
dience to  his  will,  entreating  him  at  the  same  time  to  guard 
her  well. 

"I  may  as  well  say  here,  that  she  succeeded  in  her  mission, 
and  returned  in  due  time  with  her  lord,  who  had  contracted 
the  leprosy  in  his  imprisonment :  and,  as  lepers  in  those  days 


88  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

were  secluded  in  order  to  avoid  contagion,  his  wife,  faithful 
unto  death,  accompanied  him  into  his  retirement  in  a  distant 
district ;  where  I  shall  leave  them. 

"  The  nuptial  rejoicings  lasted  for  three  days,  to  the  great 
delectation  of  every  one ;  and,  on  the  fourth,  the  count  car- 
ried his  bride  in  great  pomp  to  the  castle,  in  which  the 
marriage-couch  had  been  solemnly  blessed  by  his  friend  the 
abbot. 

"  Coolly  reflecting  on  the  step  he  had  taken,  the  intoxication 
which  prompted  him  to  it  having  passed  away,  the  poor  old 
count  began  to  perceive  that  he  had  not  exactly  done  the 
proper  thing  in  allying  his  senility  to  so  much  youth  and 
vigor.  He  accordingly  attempted  to  supply  his  shortcomings 
by  all  the  means  in  his  power,  and  to  supplement  them  by 
extraordinary  indulgences.  He  gave  up  to  the  countess  the 
keys  of  all  his  treasures  and  stores,  turning  over  to  her  also 
the  full  control  of  his  domains  and  hereditaments ;  and  she, 
poor  thing !  wholly  inexperienced  in  the  affairs  of  life,  and 
innocent  of  heart,  was  in  an  ecstasy  of  delight  at  the  gal- 
lantry of  her  goodman.  The  fair  Inez,  thus  suddenly  placed 
in  possession  of  every  thing  heart  could  desire,  and  gifted,  as 
we  have  said,  with  high  animal  spirits,  betook  herself  to 
field-sports,  and  was  soon  engrossed  in  all  the  mysteries  of 
hunting  and  falconry. 

"She  chased  the  deer  and  the  roe  on  plain,  valley,  and 
mountain-side,  mounted  on  the  famous  white  hackney  presented 
her  by  the  count ;  and  was  never  so  happy  as  when  flying  her 
falcons  and  attending  to  their  training.  The  poor  old  man  at 
first  attended  her  to  the  field,  but  was  soon  compelled  to  give 
up  that  pleasure  in  consequence  of  his  increasing  infirmities, 
after  having  been  several  times  unhorsed  in  the  vain  attempt 
to  renew  the  sports  of  his  youth.  Then,  in  the  evenings  at 
home,  she  would  be  seized  with  a  desire  for  dancing,  and 
would  force  the  ancient  castellan  to  accompany  her ;  but  he, 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  89 

loaded  with  his  warm  and  heavy  clothing,  soon  wearied  of 
the  violent  exercise.  At  last  the  count  was  compelled  to 
abstain  from  these  saltatory  entertainments  altogether,  and 
content  himself  with  holding  the  candle  for  her  to  dance. 

"  Now,  when  the  count  had  ceased  to  accompany  his  wife  on 
her  hunting  and  falcon-flying  expeditions,  he  had  delegated  a 
page  to  perform  those  duties  for  which  he  was  too  enfeebled ; 
aud  Dona  Inez  was  not  slow  to  perceive  the  immense  difference 
between  the  eighty  years  of  her  husband  and  the  twenty- 
three  of  this  young  gentleman.  Although  not  of  noble 
birth,  the  gallant  was  a  skilful  hunter  and  falconer,  as  well  as 
an  accomplished  cavalier,  sitting  his  horse  upright  as  a  dart 
beside  her  rein,  as  they  flew  together  over  hill  and  dale,  chas- 
ing the  deer,  or  following  the  lofty  flight  of  her  falcon.  The 
contrast  and  the  preference  of  Inez  could  not  but  be  apparent 
to  the  count,  who  for  the  first  time  felt  the  pang  of  jealousy  : 
so  he  dismissed  Enrique  from  the  post  of  lady's  page,  and 
sent  him  to  display  his  accomplishments  as  a  horseman 
among  the  ganado  mayor  (horned  cattle)  of  a  distant  estate. 
He  then  replaced  Enrique  by  a  mere  boy  of  his  own  lineage, 
of  comely  appearance. 

"  The  countess  resented  the  exile  of  her  favorite  with  all 
the  malevolence  of  the  female  sex.  It  now  was,  '  My  dear 
count,  I  want  this ; '  '  My  dear  count,  I  want  that ; ' 
'  Come,  husband,  let  us  do  this ; '  '  Come,  my  lord,  let  us  go 
to  this  place.'  Vamos,  count,  here,  there,  and  everywhere, 
until  the  poor  man  was  more  worn  by  her  fantastic  longings 
than  he  ever  had  been  by  any  experiences  in  his  life,  although 
he  persisted  in  discouraging  her  outdoor  amusements. 

"Inez,  meanwhile,  feeling  the  want  of  something  to  do, 
employed  herself  with  giving  reading-lessons  to  her  page ; 
and  this  exercise  usually  took  place  while  the  old  count  took 
his  siesta  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  At  that  hour,  the  huge 
antique  chair  in  which  the  old  lord  usually  sat  was  unoccupied ; 
8« 


90  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

and,  naturally,  the  countess  filled  it,  while  the  page  sat  upon 
a  footstool  near  by  to  receive  his  lessons.  The  page  proved 
an  apt  scholar,  I  ween;  for,  after  a  time,  he  watched  anx- 
iously for  the  hour  when  his  beautiful  mistress  seated  herself 
in  the  great  seignorial  throne  for  her  task,  while  the  old  count 
loudly  snored  on  a  neighboring  sofa. 

"Damiano  de  Zuniga,  the  page,  as  beseemed  a  youth  of  gen- 
tle blood  and  knightly  qualities,  was  exceedingly  devout  and 
loyal  in  the  observance  of  his  religious  duties  ;  and,  some 
weeks  after  he  had  begun  to  receive  lessons  from  his  fair  mis- 
tress, he  resorted,  as  was  his  wont,  to  the  abbey,  to  confess 
himself  to  his  spiritual  adviser.  What  passed  between  them 
was  under  the  seal  of  confession ;  but  Damiano  retired  from 
the  interview  pale  and  distressed,  and  immediately  sought 
the  presence  of  the  count. 

"The  old  warrior  was  seated  at  the  entrance  of  the  castle  on 
a  stone  bench,  watching  his  armorer,  who  furbished  the  har- 
ness, whose  weight  the  ancient  knight  could  no  longer  bear, 
but  which  he  insisted  upon  keeping  polished  as  brightly  as  a 
mirror.  He  contemplated  these  arms  with  much  pleasure,  as 
they  reminded  him  of  many  a  stoutly-contested  field  and  gal- 
lant tourney;  their  hacks  and  dints  being  silent  records  of  his 
doughty  feats  of  arms. 

"  Damiano  approached,  and  bent  the  knee  to  the  count,  as 
his  suzerain ;  at  which  the  old  lord  was  somewhat  surprised. 
'My  lord  the  count,'  said  the  page,  'send  these  people 
away ;  for  I  have  something  for  your  private  ear  much  con- 
cerning you  and  myself.'  The  servitors,  having  retired  out  of 
ear-shot,  stood  respectfully  watching  the  grim  old  warrior 
and  the  youthful  page,  who  stood  in  a  humble  attitude  before 
him,  his  fine  eyes  cast  down,  his  head  bared ;  and  seemed  to 
communicate  something  to  the  count  which  moved  the  very 
depths  of  the  old  man's  soul,  for  he  suddenly  turned  pale  as 
a  ghost. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  91 

"Instantly,  however,  he  recovered  his  self-possession,  and 
with  it,  apparently,  all  his  youthful  strength ;  for  he  seized 
from  among  the  arms  that  lay  there  a  heavy  steel  mace  with 
which  he  had  struck  down  many  a  Paynim. 

"  He  brandished  the  mighty  weapon  aloft  as  if  it  had  been 
a  mere  straw ;  then  stayed  it  for  an  instant  over  the  head  of 
the  boy,  who  retained  his  attitude  of  humility,  but  raised  his 
eyes  fearlessly  to  those  of  his  master.  His  firm  bearing 
doubtless  saved  his  life  :  for,  casting  his  weapon  far  from  him, 
the  old  man  uttered  a  passionate  exclamation  ;  and,  by  his 
gesture,  the  wondering  servitors  saw  that  he  commanded  the 
page  to  leave  him.  This  the  boy  did,  withdrawing  sorrowfully 
and  slowly,  retiring  down  the  steep  descent  leading  to  Pena- 
randa. 

"  The  count  proceeded  in  the  contrary  direction,  taking  the 
path  to  the  gardens,  in  which  the  countess  was  then  walking. 
The  servitors  cautiously  followed,  and  overheard  the  angry  old 
man  accost  her  with  dreadful  imprecations ;  telling  her  the 
truth  was  known,  and  she  must  prepare  to  die,  and  that  he 
had  already  killed  Damiano. 

"  The  shock  of  the  announcement  threw  the  fair  dame  into 
a  dead  faint.  Her  women  rushed  to  the  rescue,  and  carried 
her  into  the  castle. 

"The  count  then  raved,  and  tore  his  beard,  accusing  him- 
self of  killing  his  wife  by  his  cruelty,  and  despatched  mes- 
sengers in  every  direction  to  seek  the  page,  in  order  to  show 
her  he  was  alive  ;  but  the  boy  was  nowhere  to  be  found.  He 
was  last  seen  by  a  peasant,  from  whom  he  borrowed  a  horse, 
which  he  mounted  and  rode  off,  telling  the  countryman  he 
was  going  to  the  land  of  the  infidel  to  take  the  cross  in  pur- 
suance of  a  vow,  to  accomplish  a  penance  laid  upon  him. 

"  The  countess  learning  all  this,  and  that  her  loved  Damiano 
had  left  the  country,  probably  for  ever,  subsided  into  a  state 
of  melancholy,  from  which  it  was  impossible  to  rouse  her. 


92  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

Her  lamentations  filled  the  castle ;  and  the  old  count,  now 
sensible  of  his  many  faults  and  crimes,  tried  every  means  of 
assuaging  the  grief  of  his  wife  in  a  parental  manner.  Noth- 
ing he  could  do,  however,  would  console  the  countess  for  the 
loss  of  the  petit  page  d' 'amour ;  and  her  radiant  charms  soon 
paled  under  the  shadow  of  her  grief. 

"  In  those  times,  the  secrets  of  the  inner  life  of  the  nohility 
were  seldom  known  beyond  the  walls  of  their  castle :  so  that  all 
these  circumstances  I  have  related  did  not  come  out  until  long 
after  they  happened,  when  the  actors  in  them  had  all  passed 
away. 

"  Thus  it  was  that  the  true  history  I  am  recounting  to  your 
worship  was  preserved  by  the  gossips,  and  handed  down  by 
them  to  our  times,  long  after  the  deaths  of  the  fair  Inez  and 
her  child." 

"  Child ! "  said  I :  "  what  child  ?     Was  there  a  child  ?  " 

Just  at  this  moment  the  slanting  rays  of  the  setting  sun 
fell  upon  walls  and  towers,  and  the  single-eyed  story-teller 
informed  me  we  were  about  entering  Lerma. 

This  is  a  fine  old  town,  situated  upon  the  little  River  Arlanza, 
in  a  lovely  country,  abounding,  I  was  told,  in  game  both  finny 
and  feathered,  but  little  frequented  by  travellers.  It  conferred 
the  ducal  title  upon  the  celebrated  cardinal  minister  of  Philip 
II.,  and  contains  a  splendid  palace  built  by  him.  We  spent 
one  day  here,  in  order  to  make  some  repairs  in  our  travelling 
equipments ;  and  I  improved  the  opportunity  to  inspect  the 
palace  and  other  mementoes  under  the  guidance  of  an  excel- 
lent cicerone  provided  for  me  by  Blasco.  That  worthy  was 
absorbed  in  his  visits  to  his  old  friends  during  our  stay,  but 
was  punctual  in  starting  on  the  following  morning ;  and  at 
noon  we  stopped  for  lunch  at  the  small  hamlet  of  Madrigalejo. 
When  we  were  fairly  on  the  road  again,  Blasco  signified  that 
he  felt  like  talking,  and  resumed  his  story :  — 

"  Yes,  your  worship,  there  was  a  child.  It  arrived  in  the  due 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  93 

course  of  time,  much  to  the  delight  of  the  mother;  and  the 
circumstances  of  its  birth  were  unknown  to  all  outside  the 
castle.  The  count  had  provided  for  that ;  for  in  those  times 
inconsiderate  scandal  might  compromise  the  life  of  an  offender: 
so  the  old  man  received  all  the  credit  of  its  paternity. 

"  To  any  one,  however,  familiar  with  the  fine  ingenuous  fea- 
tures of  the  page  Damiano,  the  similarity  to  those  of  the 
beautiful  and  lusty  infant  was  too  apparent  to  be  denied ;  and 
the  old  cuckold  must  have  felt  very  strangely  at  the  likeness. 

"  So  the  news  went  through  all  the  country-side  that  the 
Count  of  Miranda  had  still  vigor  enough  to  leave  a  son  and 
heir  to  the  name,  titles,  and  estates  of  the  Zunigas. 

"  Inez  conducted  herself  with  the  strictest  propriety.  Not  a 
word  was  breathed  abroad  to  her  discredit ;  and  all  her  time 
was  occupied  with  the  care  of  her  child.  The  poor,  decrepit 
old  count  seeing  the  boy  daily  and  hourly,  and  witnessing  the 
love  of  the  mother  and  the  gambols  of  the  innocent  little 
being,  from  sheer  force  of  habit  ended  by  loving  him  also, 
and  would  have  resented  any  wrong  done  to  him  as  earnestly 
as  if  he  had  been  his  own  child. 

"Inez,  considering  herself  now  more  than  ever  bound  to 
Damiano,  continued  to  humor  the  old  man ;  and,  after  the 
custom  of  those  ladies  who  hoodwink  their  lords,  rendered  him 
so  consented,  that  he  lived  altogether  in  the  bosom  of  his 
family.  One  day,  however,  he  was  sitting  in  his  great  chair, 
his  wife  and  the  child  playing  together  near  him,  when  he  sud- 
denly fell  back,  exclaiming,  '  Ah  !  Inez,  my  love,  my  Inesilla  ! 
it  grows  dark !  I  can't  see  thee ! '  and,  saying  it  was  night 
very  early,  he  slept  the  sleep  of  the  just. 

"The  great  and  powerful  lord  was  gathered  to  his  fathers; 
and  Inez  mourned  for  him  as  for  a  parent,  fell  into  melan- 
choly, and  would  not  listen  to  a  proposition  of  a  second  mar- 
riage, although  her  friends  strongly  urged  it.  She  was  in  the 
prime  of  her  youth,  and  an  excellent  parti ;  but  she  devoted 


94  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

herself  to  her  child  in  her  widowhood.  This  seclusion  and 
celibacy  greatly  astonished  people ;  for  it  was  not  known  that 
she  had  a  heart-spouse,  and  that  she  was  a  widow  in  senti- 
ment as  in  fact :  for  she  had  heard  nothing  from  Damiano 
since  he  had  taken  the  cross,  except  a  vague  rumor  that  he 
had  heen  killed,  which  caused  her  many  sleepless  nights. 
The  countess  thus  lived  for  fourteen  years  in  the  memories 
of  a  few  weeks  of  love  and  happiness,  and  her  son  had  attained 
the  age  of  some  months  less,  when  she  received  one  day  a 
small  party  of  visitors  come  to  the  castle  to  pass  the  day. 
Seated  in  the  old  count's  great  chair,  her  favorite  seat,  she 
was  conversing  with  her  guests,  when  the  young  count,  her 
son,  came  running  into  the  hall,  blooming  as  a  rose.  He  was 
more  like  the  page  than  ever,  resembling  his  putative  father  in 
nothing  except  the  name  he  bore.  He  threw  himself  on  his 
mother's  neck,  exclaiming,  '0  dear  mother,  here  are  stran- 
gers !  I  have  just  seen  a  pilgrim  in  the  court-yard  who 
kindly  embraced  me.'  — '  Ha ! '  said  the  countess,  turning  to 
the  boy's  attendant,  'have  I  not  forbidden  you  to  allow  my 
son  to  speak  to  strangers  ?  Go !  I  discharge  you  from  my  ser- 
vice ! '  — '  Alas,  sweet  lady  ! '  said  the  servant,  '  the  holy  pil- 
grim wished  the  dear  young  count  no  harm  ;  for  he  kissed  him, 
weeping  bitterly  all  the  while.'  —  'He  wept,'  said  she:  'ah, 
it  is  his  father!'  And,  with  these  words,  she  leaned  back 
her  head  in  the  great  chair  fraught  with  so  many  memories, 
and  the  color  deserted  her  cheeks. 

"The  guests  all  pressed  about  her,  thinking  she  had  fainted, 
and  applied  all  the  usual  restoratives ;  but  the  heart  of  the 
poor  lady  had  ceased  to  beat  forever.  No  one  could  ever  learn 
whether  her  death  was  caused  by  sudden  joy  at  the  unex- 
pected return  of  her  lover,  or  by  fear  that  he  had  a  second 
time  left  her. 

"At  the  funeral  ceremonies  of  the  Countess  Inez,  which  were 
marked  with  all  the  pomp  observed  when  a  member  of  the 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  95 

house  of  Zuniga  is  taken  away,  a  pilgrim  was  present,  who, 
though  still  young  in  years,  hore  the  traces  of  much  hardship 
and  sorrow,  and  who,  when  the  fair  body  of  Inez  was  entombed, 
suddenly  left  the  place.  This  was  Don  Damiano  de  Zuniga, 
who,  driven  to  despair  by  the  death  of  his  sweet  mistress, 
completely  lost  heart,  and,  seeking  for  his  woes  the  consolations 
of  religion,  became  a  monk  in  the  Monastery  of  Santo  Domingo 
de  Silos." 

As  my  friend  Manuel  Blasco  ended  his  story,  the  twilight 
deepened ;  for  the  close  of  the  autumnal  day  and  the  end  of  our 
long  ride  approached  together :  but  I  had  no  time  for  musing 
on  the  loves  of  the  fair  Inez  and  the  gallant  young  page,  as 
we  saw  before  us  the  lights  of  a  large  town,  and  soon,  clatter- 
ing over  an  ancient  bridge,  entered  the  famous  old  city  of 
Burgos. 


XIV. 

BURGOS,  like  Venice  or  Prague,  still  seems  in  the  condi- 
tion of  centuries  ago ;  and  we  feel  in  her  streets  that  we 
should  not  be  surprised  at  meeting  her  citizens  walking  abroad 
in  jerkin  and  trunk-hose,  or  a  procession  of  mail-clad  knights 
on  horseback.  It  was  the  cradle  of  the  Castilian  monarchy. 
It  rose :  but  its  decay  followed  soon  after  its  efflorescence ;  for, 
the  Castilian  kings  having  removed  their  court  from  it  in  the 
fourteenth  century,  its  prosperity  was  destroyed ;  it  gradually 
declined,  and  the  French  invasion  by  Napoleon  completed  its 
dilapidation. 

The  venerable  old  town  has  a  noble  seat,  rising  grandly  on 
the  banks  of  the  Arlanza,  with  its  dominating  castle,  and  the 
graceful  spires  of  its  unrivalled  cathedral  proudly  announcing 
the  city  to  the  approaching  traveller.  This  wonderful  temple  is 
well  known  to  all  admirers  of  mediaeval  architecture  as  among 
the  finest  specimens  of  florid  Gothic  in  the  world.  It  is,  indeed, 
a  "  poem  in  stone ; "  and  its  western  facade  is  probably  the 
finest  of  its  kind  in  Europe.  It  would  require  a  volume  to 
record  all  the  wonders  of  this  noble  fane.  The  three  aisles, 
the  octagonal  dome  rising  two  hundred  feet  from  the  pave- 
ment, enriched  with  carvings  called  the  work  of  the  angels, 
the  sculpture  and  paintings,  the  carvings  of  the  choir  and 
stalls,  and  the  magnificent  high  altar,  fill  one  with  delight 
and  religious  fervor.  Although  its  adornments  are  profuse; 
there  is  nothing  meretricious  or  overloaded  in  their  general 
effect. 

96 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  97 

Besides  the  cathedral,  there  is  the  castle,  beautiful  in  its 
decay,  and  rich  in  historic  reminiscences,  several  palaces  of  the 
ancient  aristocracy,  and  a  fine  promenade  on  the  banks  of  the 
river.  In  the  neighborhood  is  the  Convent  of  Santa  Maria  la 
Real,  called  "  Las  Huelgas  "  ("  The  Delights  "),  with  its  chapel, 
in  which  were  once  crowned  the  Spanish  kings ;  and  the  tomb 
of  the  Cid. 

Being  so  near,  I  felt  that  I  must  pay  the  homage  of  a  visit 
to  the  last  resting-place  of  this  famous  warrior ;  and  accord- 
ingly set  forth,  accompanied  by  a  friend  whose  acquaintance 
I  had  made  in  Burgos,  and  who,  besides  being  an  intelligent 
and  learned  cicerone,  was  an  enthusiastic  admirer  of  the 
great  Spanish  hero.  We  first  directed  our  course  to  the  Car- 
thusian Convent  of  Miraflores,  where  there  is  a  royal  mauso- 
leum erected  by  the  magnificent  Isabel  with  filial  piety  to  the 
memory  of  her  parents.  The  eye  can  hardly  take  in  all  its  won- 
drous glories.  It  is  sculptured  all  over  with  costumed  figures, 
Animals,  birds,  and  foliage,  cherubs,  apostles,  saints,  and  angels, 
delicately  carved  in  Oriental  alabaster,  and  illuminated  by 
painted  glass  of  gorgeous  tints.  As  said  my  good  friend, 
"Faltan  ojos  para  mirarlos"  ("One  wants  eyes  to  see  them 
all"). 

Continuing  our  route  to  San  Pedro  de  Cardena,  we  alighted 
in  front  of  the  noble  gateway,  above  which  the  Cid,  mounted 
on  Bavieca,  rides  down  the  hostile  Moors.  No  one  was  ever 
allowed  to  mount  the  noble  steed  after  the  death  of  her  mas- 
ter; and  here  she  lies  buried.  The  tomb  of  the  Cid  bears 
the  following  epitaph,  composed,  it  is  said,  by  Alonso  the  Wise, 
who  also  caused  the  tomb  to  be  built :  — 

"BELLIGER  INVICTIS  FAMOSUS  MARTE  TRIUMPHIS 
CLAUDITUR  HOC  TUMULO  MAGNUS  DIDACHI  RODKRICUS." 

Here  are  also  the  tombs  of  his  wife  Ximena,  and  their  two 
o 


98  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

daughters,  Maria  Sol  and  Elvira,  queens  of  Aragon  and  Na- 
varre. His  only  son  was  killed  at  the  battle  of  Consuegra, 
with  others  of  his  faithful  followers,  including  Alvar  Fafiez 
Minaya,  his  cousin,  whom  the  Cid  was  wont  to  call  his  right 
arm. 

Having  passed  several  most  agreeable  days  in  Burgos  and 
its  vicinity,  our  little  party  set  forth,  intending  to  make  our 
next  halt  at  Logrono ;  sleeping  one  night  on  the  road  at  a 
hospitable  estate  of  another  friend  of  Blasco,  —  a  retired 
aficionado,  who,  having  given  us  an  excellent  breakfast, 
after  many  affectionate  accolades  to  my  squire,  sent  us  on 
our  way  with  vayan  ustedes  con  Dios.  We  saw  a  cloud  of 
dust  ahead ;  and  found  that  it  proceeded  from  a  column  of 
troops,  of  which  we  soon  overtook  the  rear-guard.  They  were 
Carlist  infantry.  We  were  not  permitted  to  precede  this 
guard,  the  officer  in  command  saying  he  was  compelled  by  his 
orders  to  prevent  any  one  from  doing  so ;  and  were  forced  to 
linger  along  in  their  rear  among  the  usual  camp-followers, 
almost  stifled  by  the  dust.  Blasco  was  instantly  engaged  in 
animated  conversation  with  our  new  acquaintances,  with  whose 
party,  as  I  have  already  said,  he  was  in  active  sympathy.  For 
my  part,  seeing  a  lady  in  the  crowd  riding  a  fine  horse,  and 
attended  by  a  couple  of  servants,  I  entered  into  conversation 
with  her.  She  proved  to  be  the  wife  of  the  lieutenant-colonel 
commanding  a  Basque  regiment,  the  second  in  command  of 
the  force  before  us ;  and  she  informed  me  that  she  ahvays 
accompanied  her  husband  on  the  march,  and  even  undor  fire. 
As  she  was  extremely  affable,  like  all  her  countrywomen,  I 
was  soon  on  excellent  terms  with  Dona  Florencia  Soler;  and 
we  exchanged  information  about  acquaintances  in  Madrid. 

About  noon  the  column  halted,  and  the  lady  improved  the 
opportunity  to  introduce  me  to  her  husband.  From  him  and 
others  we  then  ascertained  that  the  Carlist  force  of  about  nine 
hundred  was  commanded  by  colonel,  the  Count  of  Leso ;  and 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  90 

I  learned  also  that  its  destination  was  Logrono,  which  town 
they  expected  to  surprise  and  capture  with  some  persons  of 
importance.  They  had  made  a  forced  march  from  Bilbao  for 
that  purpose.  The  Carlist  troops,  whom  I  now  saw  for  the 
first  time,  appeared  to  be  young,  sturdy,  active  fellows,  appar- 
ently possessing  more  of  the  true  military  spirit  than  the 
queen's  soldiers.  They  were  in  the  usual  dress  of  the  Basque 
peasants,  and  wore  the  national  red  beret.  The  Count  do  Leso 
was  very  polite  to  me,  regretting  that  my  journey  should  have 
been  delayed,  but  telling  me,  that,  so  soon  as  Logrono  was  in 
sight,  we  would  be  at  liberty  to  go  wherever  we  pleased.  In 
less  than  twenty  minutes  the  little  Biscayans  were  again  on 
the  road,  tripping  gayly  along  with  the  elastic  step  of  the 
mountaineer,  so  different  from  the  lounging  gait  of  the  Chris- 
tines. The  lengthening  shadows  soon  fell  upon  the  walls 
of  Logrono,  and  the  column  halted :  the  line  of  battle  was 
promptly  formed,  the  skirmishers  trotted  briskly  to  the  front, 
and  the  whole  force  advanced  at  the  double-quick  to  the  attack, 
under  cover  of  their  rifles,  shouting  gayly ;  while  their  bugles 
sounded  the  charge.  A  grand  guard  stationed  in  the  suburbs 
was  driven  in,  and  we  could  see  the  Carlists  hotly  engaged 
with  the  enemy ;  then  lost  sight  of  them  as  they  entered  the 
town,  as  it  appeared  to  us,  pell-mell  with  the  Christines.  Blas- 
co,  Pedro,  and  myself  witnessed  the  combat  from  a  slight  ele- 
vation ;  and  my  squire  soon  told  me  that  the  sharp  rattle  of 
musketry,  now  incessantly  heard,  came  from  the  direction  of 
the  plaza,  the  possession  of  which  seemed  to  be  hotly  con- 
tested. Dona  Florencia  had  left  us ;  and  the  one-eyed  man 
said  she  had  joined  her  husband  in  the  fight.  The  fire  at 
length  became  scattering,  and  receded  beyond  the  town ;  and 
Blasco  said  we  might  enter  it.  We  did  so,  passing  in  the 
streets  some  corpses  and  wounded  men,  but  none  of  the  in- 
habitants: all  were,  I  was  told,  shut  up  in  their  houses.  We 
proceeded  immediately  to  the  plaza,  where  we  found  the  Car- 


100  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

list  colonel  and  his  staff  surrounded  by  a  number  of  citizens, 
some  of  whom  were  municipal  officers ;  and  with  these  he  was 
alternately  threatening,  expostulating,  and  promising,  with 
some  volubility,  after  his  victory. 

The  fight  had  evidently  been  a  stubborn  one  at  this  point; 
and  women  (among  whom  I  saw  the  religious  habit)  were  be- 
wailing the  loss  of  some  friend,  or  assisting  wounded  persons 
to  a  place  of  security  and  rest.  After  mildly  congratulating 
the  Carlist  colonel,  I  retired  to  the  inn  on  the  plaza ;  while 
Pedro  took  our  animals  to  the  stable  in  the  rear,  and  Blasco 
was  going  and  coming  with  news  in  the  evening  in  a  great 
state  of  excitement. 

He  informed  me  that  several  persons,  whose  names  I  had 
never  before  heard,  but  whom  he  appeared  to  think  of  conse- 
quence, had  been  taken  prisoners ;  that  the  Carlist  chief  had 
ordered  the  alcalde  to  provide  wine  and  provisions  for  his 
soldiers,  and  had  laid  a  contribution  upon  the  town,  to  be 
forthcoming  at  an  early  hour  the  next  morning ;  and  that 
Dona  Florencia  was  with  her  husband,  who  had  command  of 
the  guard  posted  at  the  bridge  which  crosses  the  Ebro  on  the 
farther  side  of  the  town,  and  by  which  the  discomfited  Chris- 
tines had  retreated. 

Wearied  by  the  excitement  of  the  day,  I  lay  down  on  the  bed 
without  quitting  any  but  my  upper  garments,  and  was  soon  fast 
asleep ;  for  silence  prevailed  in  the  town,  and  only  the  occa- 
sional barking  of  a  dog,  or  the  alerto  of  some  vigilant  sentinel, 
was  distinctly  heard  through  my  open  window,  which  looked 
directly  into  the  plaza.  I  must  have  slept  soundly ;  for  I  was 
awakened  by  a  terrible  noise  of  shouting  and  swearing  in  the 
plaza,  mingled  with  military  commands  and  the  sound  of  fire- 
arms. I  rose,  and  for  a  moment  stood  gazing  at  the  indistinct 
masses  of  men  below,  and  the  usual  tumult  of  a  heady  fight. 
A  taper  was  burning  in  my  apartment;  and  I  was  admonished 
by  several  bullets  singing  through  the  window  to  extinguish 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  101 

it ;  which  I  did,  retiring  to  a  safer  position ;  but  not  before  I 
saw  that  the  red  berets  were  getting  the  worst  of  it,  —  proba- 
bly overpowered  by  superior  numbers. 

The  dawn  soon  appeared,  and  with  it  my  mozo,  Pedro,  who 
came  to  seek  protection  from  both  parties  ;  and,  my  valise  being 
at  hand,  I  put  on  my  uniform,  and  awaited  the  issue  of  events. 

The  noise  of  the  battle  now  receded  westward  in  the  direc- 
tion by  which  we  had  come  to  Logrono ;  and  the  plaza  was 
deserted,  save  by  the  fresh  crop  of  dead  and  wounded  that  had 
been  harvested  since  the  evening  before.  Looking  forth,  we 
saw  a  mounted  party  enter  it,  at  the  head  of  which  rode  one 
whose  appearance  and  bearing  proclaimed  him  a  leader  of 
men.  He  was  (the  innkeeper,  who  had  ascended  to  my  room, 
informed  me)  the  renowned  guerillero,  Martin  Zurbano. 

Soon  a  sergeant  of  cavalry  came  to  the  inn,  stationed  sen- 
tries at  the  door,  and  summoned  all  its  inmates  to  the  presence 
of  his  chief;  and  we  all  issued  into  the  plaza,  following  him  as 
directed. 

The  guerilla  leader  took  my  passport;  upon  reading  which 
—  that  is,  if  he  could  have  done  so  upside-down  —  he  cour- 
teously addressed  me,  and  said,  that,  as  a  foreign  officer,  I  was 
exempt  from  further  interference  ;  then,  turning  to  the  inn- 
keeper, he  roundly  abused  him,  and  afterwards  minutely  ques- 
tioned him  as  to  the  occurrences  of  the  previous  evening. 

Returning  to  the  inn,  I  went  up  to  my  room,  accompanied 
by  Pedro,  to  view  what  was  going  on  in  the  plaza.  Blasco 
had  not  made  his  appearance ;  and  I  began  to  fear  that  he  had 
gone  off  with  the  Carlists.  While  speculating  as  to  what  I 
should  do  in  case  the  one-eyed  man  did  not  soon  appear,  I  was 
attracted  by  an  unusual  stir  in  the  square  below,  and  saw, 
with  horror,  my  acquaintances  of  the  day  before,  —  Lieut-Col. 
Rafael  Soler,  and  his  wife  Dona  Florencia,  dragged  out  by  sol- 
diers, and  placed  before  the  horse  of  the  truculent  chief  by 
whom  I  had  just  been  examined. 
9* 


102  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

The  sight  of  my  agreeable  and  gentle  companion  of  yester- 
day's ride  confronted  with  one  whom  common  report  declared 
to  be  as  savage  and  remorseless  as  the  Pyrenean  wolf  struck 
a  chill  to  my  heart ;  but  it  was  speedily  followed  by  a  desire 
to  save  her  from  the  fearful  fate  that  no  doubt  awaited  her. 
I  knew  how  cruel  and  vindictive  were  the  combatants  on  both 
sides  in  this  terrible  civil  war,  in  which  each  party  massacred 
prisoners,  and  seldom  granted  quarter.  I  hastily  descended  to 
the  door,  and  attempted  to  open  it:  but  the  clatter  of  the 
muskets  of  the  two  sentinels,  and  their  crossed  bayonets,  ad- 
monished me  that  I  was  a  prisoner  within  the  posada ;  and 
I  could  only  return  to  my  post  of  observation. 

I  now  saw  that  the  poor  colonel  was  wounded,  a  bloody  ban- 
dage encircling  his  head  ;  and  was  told  he  had  also  a  bullet- 
wound  in  the  chest,  —  probably  a  mortal  one  :  and  I  do  not 
believe  that  his  devoted  wife  wished  to  survive  him.  There 
they  were,  confronted  by  and  hopelessly  in  the  power  of  the 
fierce  guerilla,  who  regarded  them  with  a  look  in  which  I 
could  discern  no  gleam  of  mercy;  while  the  unhappy  pair 
returned  his  gaze  with  a  proud  look  of  courage  as  undaunted 
as  his  own. 

After  a  short  colloquy,  consisting  of  abuse  from  Zurbano, 
and  defiance  from  the  officer, — the  wife  seeming  perfectly 
calm  and  resigned,  —  the  guerilla  impatiently  waved  his  hand, 
and  I  caught  the  words,  "  Cuatro  tiros  pasalos,  por  las  armas  ! " 
("  Take  two  files,  and  shoot  them  ! ")  The  pair  were  dragged 
away.  I  could  look  no  longer,  and  withdrew ;  but  in  less  than 
two  minutes  the  quick,  short  commands  to  a  squad,  the  answer- 
ing clank  of  muskets,  and  the  sharp  report  of  half  a  dozen 
pieces,  told  me  that  another  cruel  and  bloody  scene  had  been 
enacted  in  the  sad  drama  then  in  progress  in  distracted  Spain. 

In  the  Peninsula,  war  assumes  a  personal  character,  and 
becomes  the  expression  of  petty  hates  and  revenges  rather 
than  .a  general  contest  for  great  principles.  Life  is  little  val- 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  103 

ued :  the  prevailing  indifference  to  it,  or  fatalism,  the  Span- 
iard seems  to  hold  in  common  with  the  Moslem.  All  know  that 
they  owe  a  death  to  Nature,  and  believe  that  no  forethought 
or  precaution  can  retard  or  prevent  it  when  the  fatal  hour 
arrives.  Life  is  daily  staked,  and  all  parties  conclude  to  stand 
the  hazard  of  the  die ;  those  who  win  exacting  the  whole  pound 
of  flesh,  and  those  who  lose  paying  the  forfeit  as  a  matter  of 
course.  To  heg  for  or  to  grant  a  pardon  would  be  alike  de- 
grading, as  strength  is  estimated  by  the  blows  struck,  and 
not  by  those  withheld.  And  thus  it  is  in  all  civil  wars,  which 
are  notoriously  more  rancorous  and  vindictive  than  hostilities 
between  rival  nations. 

Martin  Zurbano  was  a  native  of  the  neighborhood  of  Lo- 
grono.  He  early  espoused  the  queen's  cause,  and  fought 
bravely  in  the  war.  His  forces  occupied  that  town  when 
attacked  by  the  Carlists,  and  retreated  at  first ;  but,  with  his 
accustomed  tenacity  and  energy,  he  returned  with  re-enforce- 
ments during  the  night,  and  retook  the  place.  He  was  a  fair 
type  of  the  Spanish  guerilla.  He  committed  many  horrible 
crimes  in  the  progress  of  the  war  and  afterwards,  the  story  of 
which  has  been  told  by  French  and  English  writers.  After 
years  of  guerilla  warfare,  he  received  the  reward  of  his  crimes, 
by  a  providential  retribution,  on  the  very  spot  where  the  Car- 
list  colonel  and  his  wife  were  executed,  —  the  plaza  of  Lo- 
grono,  —  in  which  place  his  brother  and  his  two  sons  had  been 
already  shot. 

The  next  morning  I  had  the  melancholy  satisfaction  of 
assisting  at  the  burial,  in  consecrated  ground,  of  the  ill-fated 
Solers ;  and  made  arrangements  with  the  euro,  for  prayers  for 
their  repose.  Every  thing  had  become  quiet  in  the  town, 
Zurbano  having  gone  in  pursuit  of  the  retreating  Carlists; 
and  Blasco  mysteriously  re-appeared  at  the  posada,  telling  me 
that  he  was  well  known  to  the  Christino  chief,  and  that  he  had 
kept  himself  secluded  in  fear  of  being  recognized.  He  ad- 


104  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

jured  me  by  all  I  held  sacred  to  leave  Logrono  immediately ; 
for,  should  Zurbano  return  and  find  him  (Blasco),  the  guerilla 
would  not  fail  to  visit  him  with  his  vengeance,  "in  spite  of 
the  fact,"  said  he,  "  that  your  worship  is  the  ambassador  to  the 
King  of  France,  and  I  your  major-domo,  and,  as  such,  justly 
partaking  of  the  sanctity  of  the  diplomatic  character." 

I  gladly  assented  to  his  prayer;  for  I  longed  to  leave  a 
place  in  which  I  had  seen  nothing  but  deeds  of  blood,  and 
to  get  upon  the  road,  hoping  that,  when  again  in  the  saddle, 
exercise  and  variety  would  dispel  the  gloomy  memories  of 
Logrono.  Our  beasts  were  quite  rested,  and  had  been  well  fed 
and  groomed,  thanks  to  Pedro :  so  we  started  at  a  gallop 
from  the  door  of  the  inn,  and  were  soon  in  the  open  country. 
Guided  by  Blasco,  we  took  roads  leading  to  the  mountains, 
stopping  only  at  insignificant  hamlets ;  and,  without  meeting 
any  more  of  the  bands  of  the  two  contending  parties,  we 
arrived  in  due  time  at  Pamplona. 

I  remained  for  a  few  days  in  the  country  of  the  Pyrenees ; 
visited  the  pass  of  Roncesvalles,  the  breach  of  Rolando,  and 
other  places  of  interest ;  then,  crossing  the  frontier,  I  went 
through  Bayonne  to  Paris,  taking  Blasco  with  me,  Pedro  hav- 
ing been  sent  to  the  care  of  a  friend  of  Blasco  at  Moncada,  in 
Catalonia,  with  our  beasts,  there  to  await  our  return  to  Spain. 

During  our  stay  in  Paris,  nothing  worthy  of  record  took 
place.  I  may  mention,  however,  that  my  Spanish  guide, 
Manuel  Blasco,  found  but  little  to  admire  in  France,  —  not 
even  the  ladies :  the  practice  of  the  nil  admirari  philosophy 
somewhat  surprised  me  in  so  devoted  a  squire  of  dames. 

He  was  always  busy,  however ;  but,  our  pursuits  not  being 
always  congenial,  I  saw  but  little  of  him,  until  one  day  he 
came  to  tell  me  that  he  was  about  to  "assist"  at  a  grand  ex- 
hibition given  by  the  officers  of  the  garrison  of  Paris,  and  at 
which  all  the  best  swordsmen,  professors,  and  amateurs  were 
expected.  I  attended  on  the  evening  appointed,  and  was  much 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  105 

pleased  with  the  skill  in  all  sorts  of  what  the  French  call 
armes  blanches.  Towards  the  close  of  the  seance  Blasco  ap- 
peared, dressed  in  a  magnificent  Andalusian  or  majo  costume, 
all  silk  and  embroidery,  that  he  had  obtained  from  the  Span- 
ish embassy,  and  in  which  I  could  hardly  recognize  my  quon- 
dam guide.  He  gave  a  fine  display  of  skill  with  his  national 
weapon,  the  sword,  successfully  encountering  some  first-rate 
swordsmen;  also  defending  himself  against  the  lance  and  the 
bayonet,  and  against  great  odds ;  finishing  by  dividing  in  twain 
the  carcass  of  a  sheep  at  one  blow  of  his  toledana.  He  was 
decidedly  the  hero  of  the  exhibition. 

Of  all  the  distinguished  persons  I  saw  at  this  visit  in  the 
capital  of  France,  I  have  preserved  to  this  time  the  most*  agree- 
able remembrance  of  one  who  considered  himself  the  most 
humble  among  them,  —  the  poet  Be'ranger,  the  Robert  Burns 
of  France. 

By  appointment,  I  proceeded  at  ten,  A.M.,  to  the  small  two- 
story  house,  No.  21  Rue  Vineuse,  Passy ;  and  was  ushered  up 
stairs  to  a  landing  on  the  second  story,  where  the  maid  opened 
a  door,  and  I  found  myself  in  the  presence  of  the  author  of  the 
"Redingote  Grise,"  "Le  Violon  BriseY'  "Le  Vieux  Sergent," 
"  Les  Etoiles  qui  filent,"  &c.  A  little  man,  not  more  than 
five  feet  five  inches  in  height,  but  solidly  built,  with  an  intel- 
lectual head,  and  silky  white  hair,  arose  from  an  easy-chair,  — 
the  only  one  in  the  room,  —  and  forced  me  to  take  it.  He  had 
handsome  features,  clear  black  eyes,  and  an  expression  of 
open-hearted  benevolence.  He  wore  a  rather  shabby  dressing- 
gown,  and  on  his  head  a  little  calotte.  I  felt  at  once  relieved 
from  all  constraint  in  his  presence.  Nothing  could  be  more 
humble  than  his  surroundings.  The  little  room  was  darkened, 
which  led  me  to  suppose  that  his  eyes  were  weak;  but  it  was 
quite  airy.  A  small  bed,  with  plain  check  curtains,  occupied 
one  end  of  it;  a  writing-table  with  a  portable  desk,  a  few 
books,  and  only  two  chairs,  —  voila  tout  I 


106  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

No  pomp  of  literary  display  was  needed  to  give  interest  to 
the  first  song-writer  of  France  or  his  humble  dwelling. 

"  They  will  tell  of  all  his  glory  round  the  hearth  for  many  a  day." 

Unversed  as  I  was  in  literature,  I  dashed  at  once  upon 
something  I  was  familiar  with,  and  mentioned  Walter  Scott. 
Beranger,  I  found,  did  not  esteem  the  "  Wizard  of  the  North  " 
a  great  or  a  correct  writer.  He  said  he  had  detected  many 
blunders  in  his  works,  especially  in  "  Quentin  Durward,'*  in 
which  the  life  and  character  of  Louis  XI.  had  been  misrepre- 
sented. He  admitted,  however,  that  his  works  contained  many 
grand  pictures  of  splendid  and  interesting  groups;  remarking, 
that,  in  the  novels,  the  interest  of  the  reader  attaches  itself 
naturally  to  some  other  individual  rather  than  to  the  hero  or 
heroine.  He  instanced  "Ivanhoe,"  in  which  Rebecca  is  the 
centre  of  interest.  This  he  considered  a  defect.  With  Scott's 
poetry  he  said  he  was  not  familiar,  as  he  did  not  understand 
the  English  tongue. 

After  a  conversation  of  half  an  hour,  I  rose  to  take  leave ; 
and  the  poet  accompanied  me  to  the  stairway,  and  kindly 
shook  hands  at  parting. 

Beranger  was  at  that  time  really  a  power  in  France.  His 
chansons  had  an  immense  circulation,  and  doubtless  had  a' 
mighty  influence  in  bringing  about  the  revolution  of  1830. 
The  cJiansonnier  did  not  view  the  government  of  Louis 
Philippe  with  approbation,  and  refused  every  thing  like  favor 
at  its  hands ;  which  conduct  increased  his  popularity  with  the 
masses.  His  retirement  and  preference  of  the  peaceful  enjoy- 
ment of  his  chimney-corner  (coin  de  feu)  did  not  proceed 
from  a  cynical  or  misanthropic  affectation,  but  was  from  the 
genuine  desire  for  repose  after  a  busy  and  lately  not  unre- 
warded life. 

At  the  funeral  of  Lafitte  the  banker,  which  was  attended 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  107 

by  the  king  and  the  princes,  the  royal  coaches  passed  un- 
noticed :  but,  when  Beranger's  carriage  appeared,  it  was  wel- 
comed with  a  burst  of  acclamation,  and  hundreds  strove  for 
the  honor  of  drawing  him  in  triumph;  but  he,  with  difficulty, 
persuaded  them  to  desist. 

The  service  upon  which  I  had  been  sent  having  been  per- 
formed, we  returned  to  Spain  by  the  way  of  Perpinan,  joined 
Pedro  and  our  animals  at  Moucada,  and  continued  our  journey 
to  Madrid  by  way  of  Valencia,  Murcia,  and  Granada. 

In  the  latter  city  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  famous 
torero  Pepe  (Joseph)  Montes,  the  preux  chevalier  of  the 
arena.  This  worthy  was  performing,  or,  as  we  should  say, 
"starring,"  in  the  provinces;  and  Blasco  informed  me  we 
might  perhaps  never  again  see  such  sport  as  would  now  be 
afforded  us  in  the  plaza  de  toros  of  Granada.  Conducted  by 
my  squire,  I  entered  the  sombra,  or  shaded  seats,  in  which 
were  gathered  representatives  of  the  aristocracy,  including  the 
officials,  two-thirds  of  those  present  being  beautiful  ladies ; 
while  below  us  raged,  roared,  and  gesticulated  the  "  great 
unwashed"  of  Granada. 

Montes,  adoptive  father,  it  was  afterwards  said,  of  the  no 
less  celebrated  Lola,  was  a  man  of  wealth,  and  then  about 
forty  years  of  age,  a  little  above  the  ordinary  height,  of  grave 
aspect  and  demeanor,  lithe  as  a  serpent  in  his  movements, 
and  of  a  pale  olive  complexion.  He  was  a  native  of  Chicland, 
a  suburb  of  Cadiz.  His  eyes  had  the  look  of  alertness  I  have 
seen  in  men,  who,  like  him,  often  owe  their  lives  to  their 
instant  perception  of  danger.  No  doubt  the  immense  success 
of  this  Andalusian  hero,  the  Bayard  of  his  heroic  profession, 
was  due  rather  to  his  coolness  and  consummate  knowledge  of 
his  art  than  to  muscular  strength.  Blasco  told  me,  that,  as 
soon  as  Montes  saw  a  bull,  he  could  form  an  accurate  judgment 
of  the  animal's  character,  —  whether  its  attack  would  be 
straightforward  or  strategetic,  whether  its  sight  was  good  or  bad, 


108  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

% 

and  whether  it  would  be  cautious  or  impetuous  in  its  charge. 
Thanks  to  this  sort  of  intuitive  perception,  he  was  always 
ready  to  meet  the  beast  with  an  appropriate  defence.  Never- 
theless, as  he  often  pushed  his  temerity  to  foolhardiness  in  a 
spirit  of  bravado,  he  has  had  countless  hair-breadth  escapes  in 
the  arena,  and  bore  many  scars  of  his  victorious  conflicts,  hav- 
ing on  several  occasions  been  carried  grievously  wounded  from 
the  ring. 

On  the  first  day  I  saw  him  his  costume  was  magnificent,  — 
silk  and  velvet,  embroidered  richly  with  gold  in  the  most 
elaborate  style  of  the  majo  dress  of  Andalusian  dandies. 
Unlike  most  matadores,  Pepe  Montes  did  not  content  himself 
with  simply  killing  the  bull  when  the  signal  was  given  by  the 
presiding  officer.  He  superintended  and  directed  the  combat, 
going  to  the  assistance  of  those  toreros  who  were  in  danger, 
many  of  whom  owed  him  their  lives.  Consequently,  his 
cuadrilla  were  devoted  to  him,  knowing  he  would  never  desert 
them ;  and  he  has  often  extricated  picadores  and  banderilleros 
from  the  horns  of  the  savage  bull.  He  has  been  known  to 
colear,  or  seize  by  the  tail,  an  enraged  bull,  which,  having 
disembowelled  the  horse,  was  seeking  the  death  of  the  rider, 
sheltered  by  the  body  of  the  prostrate  animal ;  and,  while  he 
turned  swiftly  the  enraged  beast  three  or  four  times,  the  man 
had  time  to  escape  amid  the  frantic  applause  of  the  spectators. 
I  saw  him  once  plant  himself  firmly  in  front  of  an  enraged 
bull,  and  fix  his  eyes  upon  him,  standing  with  crossed  arms, 
while  the  animal  stopped  suddenly  in  his  charge,  and  seemed 
subjugated  by  that  keen  and  unshrinking  gaze.  Then  came 
a  torrent  of  wild  applause,  shouts,  vociferations,  screams  of 
delight,  from  the  fifteen  thousand  spectators,  who  stamped 
and  danced  upon  their  benches  in  wild  excitement.  All  the 
ladies  waved  their  kerchiefs,  and  every  hat  was  thrown 
aloft ;  while  Montes,  the  only  cool,  collected  person  in  the 
vast  multitude,  enjoyed  his  triumph  silently,  slightly  bowing 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  109 

with  the  air  of  a  man  who  felt  himself  capable  of  much 
greater  things. 

0  ye  silvery-toned  singers,  ye  fairy-footed  dancers,  all  ye 
who  flatter  yourselves  that  you  have  excited  popular  enthusi- 
asm !  you  have  never  heard  Montes  applauded  by  a  crowded 
circus.  Sometimes  he  would  be  encored  ;  and  a  pretty  girl 
near  me  called  out  to  him,  "  Vamos,  Senor  Montes !  vamos, 
Pepito !  —  you,  who  are  so  gallant,  do  something  for  the  sake  of 
a  lady,  — una  cosita"  (a  small  matter).  Then  Montes  leaped 
lightly  over  the  head  of  the  bull :  turning  quickly,  he  shook 
his  red  cloak  in  the  animal's  face,  and,  by  a  rapid  movement, 
enveloped  himself  in  it  with  folds  of  most  graceful  drapery. 
Thus  he  invited  the  charge,  which  he  avoided  by  stepping 
nimbly  aside. 

On  the  second  day  of  the  bull-fight  at  Granada,  Montes 
received,  in  spite  of  his  popularity,  a  rather  rough  proof  of  the 
impartiality  of  a  Spanish  public,  and  of  the  extent  to  which 
it  pushes  its  love  of  fair  play  towards  beasts  as  well  as  men. 

A  magnificent  black  bull  of  the  Sierra  Morena,  whose  graz- 
ing ground  was  in  sight  from  the  arena,  was  turned  into  the 
plaza  de  toros,  entering  with  a  dashing,  defiant  mien.  There 
was  a  murmur  of  admiration  among  the  connoisseurs.  Here 
were  all  the  points  to  be  desired  in  a  fighting  bull :  his  horns 
were  long,  thin,  and  sharp ;  his  legs  small  and  nervous.  His 
broad  chest,  heavy  dewlap,  and  mighty  shoulder,  united  to  a 
symmetrical  form,  indicated  vast  strength.  His  fixed,  star- 
ing eyes  and  gallant  bearing  gave  promise  of  unyielding 
courage. 

He  rushed  upon  the  picador  nearest  him ;  and  over  went 
horse  and  man,  —  the  former  dead  ere  he  measured  his  length 
in  the  arena :  then  fell  another  horse ;  and  the  men  had  just 
time  to  save  themselves  by  leaping  over  the  barrier.  In  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  this  bull  killed  seven  horses.  The  chulos 
were  frightened,  and  kept  near  the  barricades,  shaking  their 

10 


HO  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

muletas  at  a  respectful  distance,  jumping  over  the  barricades 
when  he  approached  them.  Montes  himself  appeared  discon- 
certed, and  once  placed  his  foot  upon  the  ledge  as  if  to  follow 
them.  The  spectators  shouted  with  delight,  and  paid  the  bull 
the  most  flattering  compliments.  Presently  a  new  exploit  of 
master  toro  elevated  their  enthusiasm  to  the  highest  pitch. 

Another  venturous  picador  cantered  towards  the  bull,  and, 
lowering  his  lance,  pricked  him  in  the  shoulder.  The  latter 
bowed  his  stately  head,  thrust  it  under  the  horse,  and  with  a 
mighty  effort  lifted  both  horse  and  rider,  and  placed  his  fore- 
feet on  the  ledge ;  then  by  a  second  lift  he  threw  both  horse  and 
man  clear  over  the  barrier  into  the  corridor  surrounding  the 
arena.  This  unheard-of  feat  drew  down  thunderous  bravos. 

The  bull  was  now  master  of  the  field  of  battle,  and  paraded 
the  arena  in  triumph,  amusing  himself  with  tossing  the  dead 
horses.  The  stable  was  empty :  there  were  no  more  horses. 
The  chulos  and  banderilleros  sat  upon  the  barriers,  not 
daring  to  approach  the  bull,  and  harassed  him  with  their 
barbed  darts.  Impatient  at  the  inaction,  the  people  shouted, 
"  Las  banderillas,  las  banderillas  !  —  Fuego  al  alcalde !  "  de- 
nouncing the  alcalde  because  he  did  not  order  them  to  attack 
the  conqueror.  At  last  a  bander illero  advanced,  and  planted  his 
little  barbed  weapon  in  the  neck  of  the  bull,  and  ran  away  quick- 
ly, pursued  by  the  animal.  In  leaping  the  barricade  his  arm 
was  grazed,  and  the  sleeve  of  his  gay  jacket  torn  by  the  horn 
of  the  bull.  The  spectators  again  applauded  "  Viva,  viva,  bravo 
toro ! "  but,  in  spite  of  the  applause,  the  alcalde  gave  the  signal 
to  despatch  the  bull. 

Blasco  informed  me  this  was  against  the  laws  of  tauroma- 
chy, which  require  that  the  bull  shall  receive  four  pairs  of 
banderillas  before  he  is  left  to  the  sword  of  the  matador. 

Montes  now  came  forward  amid  the  hooting  of  the  vast 
assembly,  who  were  not  well  pleased  that  so  valorous  an  ani- 
mal should  be  despatched  without  further  baiting. 


KEEL   AND  SADDLE.  Ill 

Instead  of  advancing,  as  was  his  wont,  into  the  middle  of 
the  arena,  the  'matador  placed  himself  within  twenty  paces 
of  the  barrier,  in  order  to  be  near  a  refuge  in  case  of  accident. 
He  was  pale,  and  did  not  indulge  in  the  little  coquetries  of 
courage,  or  dalliance  with  danger,,  which  have  procured  him 
the  admiration  of  Spain  as  a  finished  knight  of  the  bull-ring. 
Taking  his  stand  firmly,  he  slowly  unfolded  the  scarlet  muleta, 
and  levelled  his  Toledan  blade,  shaking  the  former  at  the  en- 
raged beast.  The  great  black  bull,  in  his  turn,  lowered  his 
mighty  horns,  and  rushed  upon  the  man.  For  a  brief  instant 
the  dust  obscured  the  pair :  then  the  bull  was  seen  prostrate 
at  the  feet  of  the  man,  dead,  as  if  struck  by  a  thunderbolt. 
Moutes  stood  proudly  erect  over  his  foe,  holding  his  sword,  its 
glittering  sheen  now  dimmed  with  blood. 

The  keen  weapon,  directed  by  the  firm  hand  and  wrist  of 
iron,  and  guided  by  the  unerring  eye  of  the  matador,  had  en- 
tered the  forehead  and  pierced  the  brain,  —  a  thrust  forbidden 
by  tauromachian  rules.  The  matador  should  pass  his  arm 
between  the  horns  of  the  beast,  and  stab  him  in  the  nape  of 
the  neck,  severing  the  nerves  concentrated  in  the  medulla  ob- 
lonyata.  It  is  the  most  dangerous  thrust  for  the  man,  but 
gives  the  bull  a  chance  for  his  life. 

Blasco  instantly  detected  the  foul  stroke  ;  and,  while  he  was 
explaining  it  to  me,  a  storm  of  indignation  arose  from  the 
multitude,  who  had  also  discovered  it.  A  hurricane  of  abuse 
and  hisses  was  poured  out  upon  the  matador.  Butcher,  thief, 
brigand,  assassin,  executioner,  were  the  mildest  of  the  compli- 
mentary epithets  hurled  at  him.  "  To  the  galleys  with  Mon- 
tes  !  "  "  To  the  fire  with  Montes  !  "  "  To  the  dogs  with  him  !  " 
were  some  of  the  amiable  .ejaculations  of  the  assembly.  Not 
content  with  mere  words  of  vituperation,  some  excited  persons 
threw  into  the  ring  fans,  hats,  sticks,  water-jars,  and  every 
other  available  missile. 

Montes  bit  his  lips  with  rage  until  they  bled ;  and  his  pale 


112  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

visage  was  fairly  green  with  fury.  He  affected,  however,  to  be 
unmoved,  and  leaned  gracefully  upon  the  sword,  which  he  had 
cleansed  from  blood  with  the  sand  of  the  arena. 

Such  is  popularity.  The  day  before  no  one  would  have 
thought  it  possible  that  Montes,  the  Bayard  of  the  ring,  the 
consummate  torero,  would  have  been  thus  severely  punished 
for  the  infraction  of  a  rule  rendered  doubly  necessary  by  the 
agility,  vigor,  and  extraordinary  fury  of  the  animal  with  which 
he  had  to  contend.  Another  bull  was  killed  after  this  one,  but 
was  despatched  by  another  matador,  almost  unnoticed,  amid 
the  continued  indignation  of  the  spectators. 

The  fight  over,  I  wished  to  be  introduced  to  the  famous 
torero  ;  and  Blasco,  who  knew  him  well,  went  with  me  to  the 
Fonda  for  the  purpose ;  but  Moutes  had  left.  Angry  and  half 
'ashamed,  he  had  hastily  got  into  a  calesin  with  his  cuadrilla, 
and  left  the  city,  shaking  the  dust  from  his  feet,  and  swearing 
that  he  never  would  again  return  to  Granada. 

From  Madrid  I  returned  to  Gibraltar,  having  accomplished 
the  mission  I  was  ordered  to  perform,  and  rejoined  my  ship. 


XV. 

DURING  my  tour  in  the  Iberian  Peninsula,  I  was  pro- 
foundly impressed  by  its  loveliness  and  romantic  char- 
acter, even  while  conscious  of  its  abasement  and  degeneration ; 
and  I  have,  both  before  and  since  that  time,  witnessed  the  prog- 
ress of  a  similar  state  of  things  in  the  colonies  of  which  Spain 
and  Portugal  are  the  mothers  and  progenitors.  As  I  have 
seen  with  my  own  eyes  how  the  policy  of  both  her  and  their 
rulers  has  checked  all  progress,  and  engendered  the  same  fatal 
decay  in  parent  and  offspring,  I  may  be  excused  for  saying  a 
few  words  on  that  subject. 

The  causes  of  the  ruin  of  Spain  are,  indeed,  countless :  and 
its  history  will  always  be  one  of  the  most  instructive  ;  for  in  it 
may  be  found  every  principle  of  policy  and  every  form  of  ad- 
ministration by  which  a  country  should  not  be  governed. 

Throughout  the  country,  and  particularly  in  Estremadura^ 
there  are  dreary  wastes,  cut  up  by  barrancas,  called  despob- 
lados  (unpeopled  districts)  ;  and  these  are  the  fruits  of  the 
exterminating  policy  pursued  by  the  rulers  who  succeeded 
Charles  V.  When  we  reflect  that  their  desolation  is  the  con- 
sequence, not  of  invasion  or  conquest,  but  of  monstrous  mis- 
government,  and  contempt  for  all  sound  principles  of  human 
policy,  we  are  filled  with  wonder  and  commiseration. 

History  tell  us,  that,  from  ten  millions  in  the  time  of  Philip 
II.,  the  population  of  Spain  decreased  to  about  six  millions 
in  that  of  Charles  II.,  with  a  continuing  depletive  flow ;  and 

10*  113 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

that  the  Cortes  told  the  latter  monarch  in  an  address,  that  the 
nation  could  not  prolong  its  existence  for  another  half-century 
unless  the  progress  of  the  evils  that  afflicted  it  was  arrested. 

Spain  had  already  lost  three  millions  of  her  most  industrious 
inhabitants  in  previous  reigns  by  the  expulsion  of  the  Moors, 
which  was  characterized  by  Richelieu  as  the  most  stupendous 
blunder  ever  achieved  by  any  government,  which  transformed 
an  earthly  paradise  into  a  sterile  desert. 

Then  came  the  emigration  to  America,  which  carried  off 
several  millions  more  to  gather  the  riches  of  Mexico  and  Peru. 

All  these  drains  upon  the  population  caused  a  general  neg- 
lect of  agriculture  and  the  mechanic  arts,  and,  ultimately, 
beggary  and  famine.  The  writers  of  those  times  relate  the 
most  painful  stories  of  the  sufferings  and  death  from  hunger 
of  even  the  highest  and  richest  people,  the  royal  table  being 
scantily  supplied,  and  the  Court  often  going  hungry.  The 
army  and  navy  were  in  a  deplorable  condition.  Their  offi- 
cers were  frequently  seen  begging  in  the  streets  with  that  air 
of  proud  dignity  characteristic  of  and  inseparable  from  the 
Spaniard.  The  nation  that  sent  forth  the  Armada  for  the  con- 
quest of  England  now  owned  but  a  score  of  paltry,  rotting 
hulks  at  Cadiz  and  Carthagena.  Philip  IV.  could  raise  only 
about  fifteen  thousand  troops  for  the  invasion  of  Portugal ;  and 
consequently  that  country  was  lost  to  the  Spanish  crown. 

We  cease  to  wonder  at  the  decadence  of  this  great  and 
haughty  people,  who  once  rivalled  imperial  Rome,  when  we 
examine  some  of  the  processes  of  which  it  was  the  result. 
One  of  these  was  the  barbarous  expedient  of  the  Duke  of 
Lerma,  of  debasing  the  coinage,  under  Philip  III.  Silver  and 
gold  coin  vanished :  prices  rose,  and  large  sums  were  paid  in  the 
debased  coin,  which  was  made  a  legal  tender  by  royal  edict ; 
and  the  barter,  the  badge  of  barbarism,  re-appeared.  Not 
a  third  of  the  king's  revenues  ever  came  into  his  coffers,  owing 
to  the  corrupt  system  of  farming  them  to  dishonest  officials. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  115 

The  imprudent  sovereigns  we  have  referred  to,  aided  by 
the  prejudices  of  their  proud  and  insolent  subjects, — still  to 
be  seen  in  the  Espanolismo  of  the  present  day,  —  completely 
extinguished  the  commerce,  agriculture,  and  industry  of  the 
country.  The  tourist  in  Spain  sees  hardly  a  tree ;  and,  asking 
for  the  reason,  is  told  that  Spaniards  hate  trees.  But  this  is 
not  the  true  reason  for  the  arboreal  destitution.  This  is  a 
consequence  of  legislation,  —  the  enactment  of  laws  against 
the  enclosure  of  fields.  These  laws,  known  as  the  laws  of  the 
mesta,  protected  the  grazing  interests  at  the  expense  of  all 
others  ;  and  were  enacted  by  the  influence  of  the  nobility  and 
the  great  landed  proprietors  in  order  to  make  the  kingdom  an 
immense  grazing-ground  for  their  numerous  herds  of  merino 
sheep  and  horned  cattle,  under  the  pretext  that  these  animals 
constituted  the  real  wealth  of  the  country.  This  policy,  so 
ruinous  to  small  land-holders  and  tenants,  was  persisted  in  to 
the  last,  and  exists  even  now  in  some  parts  of  the  New  World. 
But,  not  satisfied  with  these  restrictions  upon  agriculture, 
Philip  II.  passed  a  law  that  punished  with  fourteen  years' 
exile  the  farmer  who  made  bread  of  wheat  of  his  own  raising, 
or  who  sold  it  in  the  market. 

Operating  in  harmony  with  these  incredibly  foolish  laws,  the 
mayorazgos  (entails),  and  the  statutes  of  mortmain,  aided  in 
the  almost  total  extinction  of  agriculture.  The  natural  result 
was,  that  Spain  was  supplied  with  grain  from  other  countries ; 
and,  having  no  manufactures  to  exchange  for  breadstuff's,  was 
annually  drained  of  specie  to  the  amount  of  more  than  thirty 
million  of  dollars. 

Industrial  pursuits  fared  as  badly  as  agriculture.  Every 
Spaniard  wished  to  be  noble  ;  and  their  monarchs,  fearing  the 
rebellious  spirits  of  mechanics,  invented  the  Alcabala  ;  which 
was  a  tax  laid  upon  every  article  manufactured  and  sold,  and 
which  bore  so  heavily  on  some  handicraftsmen,  that  it  was 
cheaper  for  them  to  remain  idle  than  to  work.  The  natural 


116  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

consequence  was,  that  industry  of  all  kinds  perished  in  the 
country ;  almost  the  only  manufacture  left  being  that  of  Toledo 
swords,  which  escaped  destruction  owing  to  a  prejudice  in  favor 
of  its  supposed  noblity.  Even  the  manufacture  of  the  famous 
Segovian  cloths,  and  Cordovan  and  Galician  leather,  ceased 
entirely,  and  it  became  disreputable  to  engage  in  it ;  while  the 
laboring-classes  were  regarded  as  pariahs,  and  stigmatized  as 
pecheros.  Moreover,  to  induce  the  Spaniards  to  become  en- 
nobled, the  nobility  were  exempted  from  taxation ;  and  this 
privilege  augmented  their  haughtiness,  and  intensified  their 
contempt  for  all  business.  It  was  considered  beneath  the 
dignity  of  a  Spaniard  to  bargain,  or  to  receive  back  change  for 
gold  in  the  purchase  of  the  merest  trifle ;  while  interest  for 
money  loaned  was  accounted  Judaism  and  the  sum  of  all 
baseness. 

Such  ideas  prevailing  among  the  Spaniards,  all  lucrative  oc- 
cupations naturally  fell  into  the  hands  of  Jews  and  foreigners, 
who  flocked  into  the  Peninsula  from  every  part  of  Europe  to 
work  for  the  Spaniards,  who  would  not  work  for  themselves. 
These  remained  long  enough  only  to  accumulate  a  competency, 
with  which  they  hurried  home,  where  they  were  not  subjected 
to  the  universal  contempt  with  which  all  Spaniards  regarded 
them.  All  the  wealth  of  the  New  World,  millions  upon  mil- 
lions, thus  passed  through  the  country,  scarcely  a  dollar 
remaining  in  it ;  and  year  by  year  the  Spaniards  grew  poorer 
and  poorer.  The  proceeds  of  the  grinding  taxation  of  their 
European  provinces,  —  Naples,  Sicily,  and  Lombardy,  — with 
the  bullion  from  both  the  Indies,  rolled  into  Spain  in  a  golden 
current,  which  traversed  without  enriching  it ;  and,  like  a  worn- 
out  profligate,  she  swallowed  every  thing,  but  digested  noth- 
ing. There  was  one  long  holiday  in  the  Peninsula ;  but  though 
revelry,  feasting,  and  idleness  were  the  order  of  the  day,  the 
real  national  prosperity  was  gone  forever. 

The  court,  in  those  unthrifty  times,  scornfully  ignored  every 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  117 

axiom  of  political  economy  suggested  to  common  sense  by  the 
stream  of  wealth  poured  into  the  country. 

In  former  years,  when  the  kings  of  Castile  were  elected  by 
the  barons,  they  told  the  sovereign  at  his  coronation  that  they 
who  sanctioned  it  were  his  equals,  and,  united,  his  superiors  ; 
and  that  they  conferred  upon  him  the  regal  power,  and  prom- 
ised to  obey  him,  provided  he  continued  to  respect  their  rights  ; 
and,  if  he  did  not,  then  not,  "  Y,  si  no!  no!  "  But  now  the  sove- 
reign was  worshipped  by  his  unworthy  subjects,  men  like  him- 
self, with  a  slavishness  hardly  less  base  than  the  reverence 
paid  to  the  grand  lama ;  and  the  once  chivalrous  house  of 
Burgundy  had  degenerated  so  fearfully,  that  it  was  remarked 
by  a  contemporaneous  historian  that  Charles  V.  was  a  warrior 
and  a  king,  Philip  II.  a  king  only,  Philip  III.  and  Philip  IV. 
not  even  kings,  while  Charles  II.  was  not  even  a  man. 

The  latter  imbecile  sovereign  was  a  mere  human  machine, 
whose  every  step,  word,  and  action  were  regulated  by  an  un- 
changeable system  of  etiquette,  which  set  at  naught  volition ; 
and  whose  appearance,  as  one  may  still  see  in  his  portrait  in 
Madrid,  was  that  of  hopeless  idiocy,  which  was  his  real  char- 
acter. His  costume,  also  strictly  regulated  by  etiquette,  con- 
sisting of  a  rigid  black  velvet  dress,  with  the  huge  golilla  (ruff) 
encircling  his  neck,  —  painfully  suggestive  of  the  head  of  John 
the  Baptist  in  a  charger,  —  strengthens  his  resemblance  to  an 
automaton.  The  irrational  and  impious  system  of  king-worship 
was  immensely  popular ;  and  the  Spaniards  even  committed 
the  impiety  of  speaking  of  las  dos  majestades  (the  two  majes- 
ties), coupling  the  sacred  host  with  their  earthly  sovereign, 
and  thus  adding  sacrilege  to  their  other  national  sins.  In 
their  most  violent  revolts  the  Spaniards  never  thought  of  depos- 
ing the  king ;  always  shouting  "  Viva  el  rey  absolute ! "  whether 
he  was  a  tyrant,  a  knave,  or  an  idiot.  Finally  their  manners 
grew  intolerable ;  political  bigotry  and  fanaticism  ruled  the 
kingdom  j  and  irreligion  was  so  universal,  that  assignations  were 


118  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

usually  made  in  churches,  even  at  the  hour  of  the  holy  sacri- 
fice !  Crime  remained  unpunished,  or  was  condoned ;  and  the 
proverbial  delays  of  the  law  were  prolonged  tenfold. 

At  the  time  of  my  tour,  Ferdinand  VII.  had  been  dead 
ahout  three  years  :  his  infant  daughter,  Isabel  II.  was  the  titu- 
lar queen ;  and  her  mother,  Maria  Christina  of  Naples,  third 
wife  of  Ferdinand,  was  regent  of  the  kingdom.  The  old  king 
had  reigned  with  absolute  power  for  more  than  twenty  years 
over  a  population  of  twelve  millions  of  Spaniards,  who,  almost 
unanimously,  had  hailed  his  accession  to  the  throne  of  the 
Bourbons,  loudly  clamoring  for  the  ancient  regime  of  despot- 
ism. The  vox  populi  being  in  full  harmony  with  the  secret 
wishes  of  the  king,  with  the  concurrence  of  the  army  and  the 
armada  (navy)  he  issued  a  decree  annulling  every  act  of  the 
Cortes  passed  during  his  captivity  in  France,  —  which  acts  were 
exceedingly  liberal,  —  and  restoring  the  absolute  monarchy. 
This  measure  was  received  with  immense  enthusiasm.  The  sight 
of  a  whole  nation  thus  debasing  itself,  and  eagerly  riveting 
chains  upon  its  own  limbs,  is  melancholy  indeed ;  but  the  fact 
is  beyond  dispute.  This  cowardly  weakness  was  particularly 
lamentable  in  this  instance ;  for  Ferdinand  VII.  was  a  weak 
man,  depraved  in  heart  and  corrupt  in  life,  with  scarcely  a 
redeeming  quality.  His  first  wife  was  his  cousin,  Maria  of 
Naples,  —  a  lovely,  gentle,  and  affectionate  princess  :  but  her 
brutal  husband  blighted  her  life ;  and  she  perished,  as  there  is 
every  reason  to  believe,  by  poison  administered  by  his  hand. 
He  then  sought  a  wife  among  Napoleon's  family;  but  the 
emperor  thought  he  could  not  recommend  for  a  husband  a  man 
who  had  attempted  the  life  of  both  his  parents,  and  had  mur- 
dered his  wife :  so  the  offer  was  declined ;  and,  eight  years  after- 
wards, Ferdinand  married  his  niece,  Maria  of  Portugal.  At 
the  same  time,  his  brother,  Don  Carlos,  wedded  a  princess  of 
the  same  royal  house.  Ferdinand  hated  his  brother,  and  de- 
sired to  shut  him  out  from  the  succession.  In  less  than  one 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  119 

year,  the  queen  died  childless ;  and,  a  few  months  afterwards, 
the  king,  anxious  to  secure  an  heir,  took  another  bride,  —  Maria 
Amelia  of  Saxony.  Meantime  insurrections,  executions,  im- 
prisonment, and  misery  afflicted  poor  Spain. 

For  ten  years  the  queen  endured  her  husband,  and  then 
sank  childless  into  the  grave,  leaving  Ferdinand,  a  worn-out 
debauche  of  forty-five,  imbecile  in  mind  and  body,  but  still 
haunted  by  the  thought  that  the  sceptre  would  pass  into  the 
hands  of  the  hated  Carlos.  His  last  bride  was  Maria  Christina 
of  Naples,  a  frivolous  girl  of  twenty,  without  conscience  or 
moral  scruples,  but  gifted  with  a  considerable  amount  of 
shrewdness,  which  fitted  her  admirably  for  the  palace  intrigues 
in  which  she  became  so  famous. 

Almost  her  first  act  after  marriage  was  to  take  as  her  lover 
one  Munoz,  a  private  soldier  in  the  king's  life-guard,  —  a  young, 
handsome,  and  vigorous  man,  but  of  the  lowest  extraction, 
manners,  and  deportment.  She  lavished  wealth  and  titles 
upon  this  person,  creating  him  Duke  of  Rianzares ;  and  with 
her  friends  exulted  in  the  probable  success  of  their  scheme  to 
secure  an  heir  to  the  throne,  and  thus  to  defeat  the  preten- 
sions of  Carlos.  There  was  only  one  drawback  to  this  little 
game ;  which  was,  that,  should  the  offspring  of  the  queen  prove 
a  female,  Carlos  would  be  still  the  next  in  succession,  under 
the  Salic  law,  which  had  prevailed  in  Spain  for  a  hundred  and 
fifty  years. 

While  all  the  kingdom  anxiously  awaited  the  issue  of  the 
accouchement  of  the  queen,  the  Carlist  party  were  dismayed  by 
the  promulgation  of  a  decree  by  the  king,  revoking  the  Salic 
law,  and  transmitting  the  crown  to  females  in  default  of  male 
heirs. 

On  the  10th  October,  1830,  a  daughter — afterwards  Isabel  II. 
—  was  born  ;  and,  a  formidable  insurrection  having  broken  out 
in  Madrid,  the  king  repealed  his  obnoxious  decree,  but  again 
re-affirmed  it  after  the  crisis  had  passed.  There  is  no  doubt 


120  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

that  the  queen  procured,  by  her  influence  over  the  miserable 
old  monarch,  the  execution  of  these  several  decrees,  and  even 
guided  his  hand  in  signing  them  ;  for  Ferdinand  was  a  con- 
firmed invalid,  and  lived  secluded  in  his  palace,  entirely  under 
his  wife's  influence.  She  thus  secured  a  party  in  her  favor, 
which  she  used  every  means  to  strengthen ;  and  finally  the  old 
king,  exhausted  by  his  excesses  and  sickness,  delegated  the 
regal  authority  to  his  wife  as  a  reward  for  her  wifely  care. 

The  two  parties  of  Christina  and  Carlos  now  secretly  pre- 
pared to  appeal  to  arms :  but  their  preparations  were  suspend- 
ed upon  the  announcement  that  the  queen  was  again  about 
to  become  a  mother;  for,  should  the  issue  be  a  son,  Carlos 
would  have  no  claim.  After  a  few  months  of  hopes,  fears,  and 
doubts  on  all  sides,  the  queen  gave  birth  to  another  daughter,  — 
the  infanta  Luisa.  Finally  the  old  king  was  called  away,  and 
died  Sept.  29, 1833.  His  death-bed  was  the  scene  of  quarrels, 
reproaches,  and  even  blows,  among  his  affectionate  relations, 
who  departed  with  malevolence  in  their  hearts  to  summon 
their  adherents  on  either  side ;  and  the  civil  war,  so  long  de- 
ferred, at  last  broke  out. 

I  frequently  saw  the  queen-regent  and  her  two  daughters, 
and  can  vouch  for  their  fine  appearance ;  but,  that  they  had 
much  Bourbon  blood  in  their  veins,  I  presume  no  one  in  Ma- 
drid could  be  found  so  credulous  as  to  maintain,  expecting  to  be 
believed.  The  well-known  fact  that  Dona  Christina  continued 
to  increase  her  family  after  the  death  of  Ferdinand  VII.,  and 
profited  by  her  position  to  acquire  the  means  of  supporting 
them  all  handsomely,  may  be  of  interest  to  those  who  ardently 
admire  royal  institutions. 

Even  from  the  foregoing  meagre  statement,  it  must  appear 
that  no  nation  in  history  was  ever  so  entirely  abandoned  to  the 
adoration  of  senseless  eccentricities  as  was  Spain.  She  appears 
to  be  isolated  from  the  rest  of  the  world  in  thought  and  feel- 
ing, and  has  been  governed  by  passions  and  vices  apparently 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  121 

most  incompatible.  In  no  other  country  has  the  monarchical 
principle  of  government  obtained  so  much  discredit.  For  four 
centuries  the  Spanish  crown  has  never  been  worn  by  an  en- 
lightened sovereign  devoted  to  the  interests  of  his  people, 
or  deserving  any  better  fate  than  historical  ignominy ;  yet 
Spaniards  have  continued  to  believe  in  their  rulers,  to  fight  for 
them,  to  die  for  them,  and  even  to  prostitute  their  country  for 
their  interests. 

What  will  be  the  end  ?  The  answer  is,  that  Spaniards  have 
always  been  fanatics  in  politics,  and  "Espanolismo"  has  ever 
been  their  test  of  truth.  An  abandonment  of  that  false  stan- 
dard must  precede  the  disinthralment  of  Spain,  political  and 
intellectual.  Until  then,  liberty  will  be  unknown  to  her,  and 
progress  impossible. 

11 


XVI. 

ABOUT  a  year  after  my  Spanish  tour,  —  which  interval 
had  been  spent  in  cruising  in  the  Mediterranean,  — 
the  ship  arrived  in  the  harbor  of  Algiers ;  and  I  had  a  short 
leave  to  visit  the  interior  of  that  French  colony.  A  British 
admiral  compares  the  city  of  Algiers  to  an  old  main-topsail 
spread  out  on  a  hillside  to  dry :  not  an  inapt  likeness  to  one 
looking  from  the  anchorage.  Its  white  walls,  and  cross-streets 
in  parallel  lines,  certainly  resemble  the  reef-bands.  The  Arabs 
more  poetically  compare  the  city  to  a  diamond  set  in  emerald 
and  sapphire, — alluding  to  the  green  hills  and  the  blue  sea 
around  it.  Here,  as  elsewhere,  Nature  is  more  truthfully 
depicted  by  barbarian  poetry  than  by  civilized  prose. 

The  clear  skies  in  its  calm  atmosphere  reflect  a  dazzling 
light,  and  the  sharp  outlines  of  the  mountains  cut  the  horizon 
distinctly  in  the  transparent  distance ;  while  the  gentle  sound 
of  the  sea-breeze  and  the  scent  of  the  sweetly-perfumed  land 
transport  the  vision  of  the  imagination  far  into  the  depths  of 
remote  Atlas.  On  landing,  these  charms  measurably  fade  ;  and 
the  city  hardly  answers  the  promise  of  first  sight  from  the 
sea.  In  the  Moorish  quarters  especially,  the  narrow  streets 
and  peculiar  architecture  of  the  houses,  built  with  reference 
to  the  Mussulman's  ideas  of  seclusion  and  jealousy,  make  the 
city  an  inextricable  labyrinth,  full  of  oddity  and  mystery. 
These  streets  are  rough  to  mount,  and  rougher  to  descend, 
many  of  them  being  "  impasses."  We  are  agreeably  surprised 
122 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  123 

upon  entering  some  of  these  houses,  as  all  their  comfort  and 
elegance  are  reserved  for  the  interior,  wherein  are  freshness, 
coolness,  and  rich  furniture.  An  inside  gallery  runs  around 
a  court  filled  with  beautiful  fountains,  and  adorned  with 
flowers,  upon  which  open  all  the  apartments  of  the  mansion ; 
and  a  fine  terrace  forms  the  roof,  from  which  the  eye  ranges 
over  the  sea  and  the  lofty  mountains  of  the  Jujura.  The 
French  authorities  had  occupied  some  of  these  palaces  of  the 
old  Algerines  as  government  offices  and  quarters ;  and  in 
several  of  them  I  was  hospitably  received.  Abd-el-Kader  was 
then  still  at  large,  and  at  war  with  the  French,  who  indeed 
were  masters  only  of  the  seaboard,  and  of  the  interior  so  far 
as  the  city  of  Blidah,  which  had  succumbed  not  long  before 
to  their  arms. 

Although  Algiers  is  chiefly  known  to  us  by  tradition  as  the 
capital  city  of  piracy,  and  though  Shakspeare  makes  it  the 
birthplace  of  Sycorax,  the  mother  of  the  imp  Caliban,  still, 
seen  in  the  lovely  month  of  March,  one  must  imagine  it  to  be 
peopled  by  the  most  amiable  of  corsairs  and  sorceresses.  The 
skies  have  all  the  smiling  sweetness  of  Italy ;  and  the  climate 
is  so  delightful,  that  even  the  galley-slaves,  as  we  are  told, 
when  liberated,  pined  to  return  to  the  scene  of  their  captivity. 

After  a  few  hasty  preparations  for  my  trip,  I  mounted  one 
of  the  stair-like  streets  leading  to  the  casbah,  which  formerly 
was  the  citadel  of  the  dey,  and  is  now  a  French  fortress  and 
depot.  I  occasionally  paused  to  view  the  strange  sights,  —  the 
veiled  and  spectral  forms  of  the  Moorish  women,  and  wild- 
looking,  coifed  Arabs  in  their  flowing  white  bornouses,  with 
here  and  there  a  Turk  or  a  Frank.  I  heard  the  gay  notes  of 
an  infantry  bugle  ;  and  soon  a  company  of  French  soldiers 
passed  by  on  their  way  to  relieve  some  post  or  guard  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  city.  The  French  foot-soldier  has  a  martial 
and  forcible  aspect,  which  always  commands  my  attention  and 
admiration,  mixed,  I  confess,  with  a  little  envy.  Their  elastic 


124  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

step,  confident  air,  and  determined  bearing,  give  one  the  as- 
surance that  those  active  feet  will  follow  the  path  in  which 
they  may  enter  to  the  end. 

Having  arrived  at  the  casbah,  I  was  politely  received  by  the 
old  major  in  command  of  the  depot,  to  whom  I  was  accredited 
by  superior  authority,  and  introduced  to  the  captain  of  the 
foreign  legion,  who  was  to  command  the  detachment  detailed 
as  convoy  which  I  had  received  permission  to  accompany. 
Capt.  Senneval  invited  me  to  dine  at  the  mess ;  and  I  met  at 
their  hospitable  board  several  military  men  of  the  different 
corps  then  in  the  colony.  Their  conversation  was  general, 
frank,  and  open,  relating  principally  to  the  war  in  progress ; 
and  I  heard  of  acts  of  brilliant  valor,  and  even  of  eccentric 
hardihood,  spoken  of  without  boasting  or  military  pedantry. 
These  African  heroes  told  only  of  what  they  had  seen,  not 
what  they  had  done ;  and  I  was  convinced  of  the  truth  of 
their  stories  by  the  simplicity  of  the  narrators. 

There  were  about  a  dozen  officers  at  the  table,  which  was 
plentifully  supplied,  and  handsomely  decorated  with  flowers ; 
the  waiters  being  fine-looking  Maltese  women,  under  the  man- 
agement of  an  old  steward ;  also  a  Maltese,  who,  as  I  was  in- 
formed, had  been  a  pirate.  Among  these  officers  I  saw  repre- 
sentatives of  nearly  every  nation  in  Europe.  The  old  major 
had  cast  off  his  shabby  blouse,  and  the  blue  spectacles  he  wore 
in  his  bureau,  and  appeared  in  all  the  glory  of  the  epaulets 
of  his  rank,  cross  of  the  legion,  and  pantalons  garance,  which 
he  wore  with  the  ease  and  grace  of  an  old  soldier. 

The  officers,  I  was  told,  were  of  two  classes;  those  who 
served  with  the  legion  as  etrangers,  —  free  lances,  who  had 
taken  service  under  the  French  flag,  having  left  their  native 
lands  under  untoward  circumstances,  —  and  of  French  volun- 
teers sent  to  serve  in  that  corps  to  attain  promotion.  To  the 
latter  class  belonged  Capt.  Senneval  and  a  regular  vieux  mous- 
tache near  whom  I  sat,  and  who  rejoiced  in  the  nom  de  guerre 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  125 

of  Capt.  Eylau,  —  so  called  from  a  habit  he  had  of  talking  con- 
linually  about  that  great  battle,  in  which  he  served  as  a 
drummer-boy ;  his  present  rank  being  that  of  captain  of 
"  zephyrs,"  as  they  are  called  in  the  African  battalions. 

Coffee  and  cigars  having  ended  the  meal,  I  rose  from  table, 
and  entertained  myself  for  a  while  with  the  new  and  strange 
sights  around  me. 

At  that  time  Blidah,  now  only  a  few  hours  of  peaceful 
travel  by  railway  from  Algiers,  was  a  garrisoned  post  in  an 
enemy's  country,  surrounded  by  tribes  of  stealthy,  wandering 
Kabyles ;  and  our  expedition  was  sent  to  convoy  stores  for 
the  use  of  the  garrison.  It  was  composed  of  two  companies 
of  infantry,  —  one  of  zephyrs,  and  one  of  the  foreign  legion, 
and  a  squadron  of  spahis,  —  native  cavalry ;  the  whole  under 
command  of  Capt.  Senneval. 

Although  this  officer  was  quite  a  young  man,  his  commis- 
sion was  older  than  that  of  Capt.  Eylau ;  which  gave  him  the 
command. 

Our  little  column  —  with  the  exception  of  the  cavalry  — 
started  at  early  daybreak  in  order  to  arrive  at  a  certain 
bivouac  not  very  far  from  Blidah  at  an  early  hour,  provided 
we  were  not  interrupted  by  the  Kabyles.  This  was  not  im- 
probable, for  stores  were  much  coveted  by  them,  especially 
ammunition ;  and  there  were  always  spies  in  Algiers  to  give 
intelligence  of  any  important  movement.  It  was  rumored 
that  the  emir  himself  was  known  to  be  far  from  the  plain,  or 
table-land,  of  Algiers :  and  the  quiet  attitude  of  the  neighbor- 
ing tribes  confirmed  that  opinion  ;  for  they  were  very  uneasy 
when  their  great  chief  was  near  or  among  them. 

In  hope  of  a  quiet  march,  Capt.  Senneval  had  directed  the 
troop  of  spahis  not  to  mount  and  follow  our  column  until  the 
infantry  and  wagons  had  been  two  hours  on  the  road ;  know- 
ing that  it  is  very  fatiguing  to  cavalry  to  regulate  its  march 
by  that  of  infantry,  and  vice  versa.  After  quitting  Algiers, 
11* 


126  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

we  rode  leisurely  across  a  level  plain  by  a  well-worn  road 
through  a  country  in  which  we  saw  a  few  Moorish  houses 
surrounded  by  high  walls,  all  having  the  same  mute  and 
lugubrious  appearance.  Soon  even  these  disappeared ;  and 
only  a  few  fig,  aloe,  and  dwarf-palm  trees  were  to  be  seen. 
The  country  was  known  to  be  inhabited  by  the  wild  tribes ; 
but  we  saw  not  a  human  creature,  nor  even  a  domestic 
animal. 

The  way  was  so  monotonous,  that  I  began  to  yawn  from 
weariness ;  when  suddenly  Capt.  Senneval,  who  rode  near  me, 
in  the  centre  of  the  column,  put  spurs  to  his  horse,  and  dashed 
to  its  head.  Looking  for  the  cause  of  his  movement,  I  saw  a 
light-blue  smoke  curling  up  in  the  cool  mountain-air  far 
ahead.  It  was  evident  that  this  aerial  spectre,  clearly  drawn 
upon  the  deep  blue  of  the  sky,  was  a  signal  of  some  sort ;  for 
the  officers  knew  that  there  were  no  villages  or  lodges,  even 
of  the  temporary  sort  called  "  gourbis,"  in  that  direction. 
Old  Eylau  was  called  to  the  front,  and  a  rapid  conference 
ensued,  a  party  of  eclaireurs  being  detailed  to  scour  the  coun- 
try in  the  advance  ;  and  we  proceeded  about  a  league  farther. 

The  sun  was  now  getting  powerful ;  and  the  soldiers  marched 
along  with  their  great-coats  open,  their  muskets  en  ban- 
douliere,  and  long  walking-sticks  in  their  hands,  —  a  peculiarity 
of  African  troops,  who  use  them  also  as  tent-poles.  As  the 
sun  became  hotter,  the  road-song  —  chanson  de  route  —  died 
away;  and  no  sounds  were  heard  save  the  tinkling  of  the 
mess-pans  and  accoutrements  of  the  troops,  slung  to  the  goat- 
skin knapsacks,  in  which  the  French  soldier  carries  his  whole 
worldly  wealth. 

Suddenly  arriving  at  a  place  where  the  ground  was  some- 
what broken,  we  heard  shots  from  the  eclaireurs.  The  aide- 
major  of  the  command  halted,  and  closed  up  the  wagons  ;  the 
bugles  sounded  the  "  rally,"  which  brought  in  the  skirmishers 
to  the  main  body ;  and  the  troops  deployed  from  column  to 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  127 

line  of  battle.  The  enemy  was  in  force  in  our  front,  at  no 
great  distance,  determined  to  dispute  our  progress ;  their  main 
body  being  masked  by  a  cloud  of  Arab  horsemen  galloping 
swiftly  about,  their  white  bornouses  floating  in  the  air,  shout- 
ing, and  firing  their  long  Turkish  guns,  or  brandishing  them 
at  arm's  length.  Behind  them  were  the  dark  masses  of 
Kabyle  infantry. 

Capt.  Senneval  approached ;  and  I  saw,  by  his  intrepid 
air  and  bearing,  that  our  safety  was  in  good  hands.  The 
soldiers  of  the  legion  betrayed  at  once  all  their  national 
characteristics.  The  Spaniard  was  disdainfully  grave ;  the 
eyes  of  the  Pole  grew  bright,  and  his  color  heightened ; 
while  all  the  mustaches,  brown,  red,  or  black,  bristled  up 
at  the  very  idea  of  a  fight,  giving  me,  a  neutral  spectator, 
the  agreeable  assurance  that  I  was  under  excellent  protec- 
tion. The  "  zephyrs "  entered  into  the  spirit  of  the  thing 
with  the  customary  gayety  of  the  gamins  of  Paris,  from 
which  class  their  ranks  were  mainly  recruited,  and  with  the 
laughing  philosophy  in  the  hour  of  danger  for  which  they  are 
distinguished.  These  enfants  perdus  are  generally  well  com- 
manded ;  and  their  officers,  being  taken  from  the  regiments  of 
the  line,  show  their  soldiers  an  example  of  intrepidity,  allied  to 
habits  of  discipline,  which  proves  to  them  that  all  the  military 
virtues  may  be  united.  The  officers  identify  themselves  with 
their  soldiers  in  action,  decide  rapidly,  and  act  quickly. 

Just  such  an  officer  was  Capt.  Balment,  commonly  called 
Eylau,  who  had  spent  his  whole  life  under  the  French  colors. 

The  wagons  and  ambulances  of  the  convoy  were  massed  in 
the  rear  of  the  line  of  battle,  and  the  action  was  becoming 
warm  ;  when  I  saw  an  old  non-commissioned  officer  brought  to 
the  rear  for  treatment,  and  I  addressed  him.  He  was  already 
in  the  hands  of  the  surgeon,  and  submitted  himself  with  cool 
imperturbability.  Withdrawing  his  pipe  for  a  moment  from  his 
mouth,  "  Ah !  "  said  he,  "  they  have  among  them  some  proini- 


128  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

nent  officer  of  Abd-el-Kader,  if  not  the  emir  himself.  I  see  it 
by  the  boldness  with  which  their  cavalry  attack  our  line. 
They  are  sustained  by  a  strong  force  of  infantry." 

The  situation  was,  indeed,  becoming  serious  ;  and  I  began  to 
repent  having  wished  to  see  something  of  the  country  beyond 
the  walls  of  Algiers.  Men  were  falling ;  and  a  soldier  in  front 
of  me  was  killed  by  a  bullet,  slightly  spattering  me  with 
blood  and  brain.  A  band  of  the  Kabyles,  led  by  a  chief  of 
large  stature,  advanced  towards  our  line  at  the  charge,  direct- 
ing themselves  upon  the  "  zephyr  "  company  commanded  by 
Eylau.  The  captain  drew  his  sabre,  sheathed  till  now,  took 
his  brule  gueule  from  his  mouth,  and  placed  himself  in  front 
of  his  covering  sergeant,  on  the  right  of  his  company.  The 
enemy,  howling  and  gesticulating,  charged  the  "  zephyrs ; "  but 
they  endured  the  shock  steadily,  receiving  the  horsemen  on 
their  sabre  bayonets,  many  of  which  were  impurpled.  Then 
Capt.  Eylau,  passing  from  defence  to  attack,  threw  his  com- 
pany—  dressed  as  if  on  parade  —  upon  the  Kabyles.  I  saw 
his  sabre  plunged  into  the  body  of  the  tall  chief,  who  fell  like 
lead  ;  and,  quick  as  lightning,  a  zephyr,  rummaging  among  his 
white  vestments,  drew  forth  his  watch,  and  secured  his  arms. 
So  skilfully  was  this  done,  that  I  thought  the  dexterity  of  the 
gamin  must  have  been  acquired  in  a  different  field. 

Eylau  was  triumphant,  driving  the  enemy  far  from  the 
wagons ;  but  they  outnumbered  us,  and,  despite  the  well-sus- 
tained fire  of  the  French  troops,  re-enforced  their  front  line, 
and  renewed  the  action,  as  if  determined  on  victory.  I  saw  in 
the  faces  of  Capt.  Senneval  and  others  that  the  crisis  had 
arrived,  and  that  they  were  wishing  for  any,  even  the  smallest 
re-enforcement,  when  a  movement  took  place  in  the  enemy's 
line  :  their  fire  became  hesitating,  and  then  ceased.  They 
broke,  and  ran ;  and  we  knew  that  they  were  charged  in  flank 
by  French  cavalry. 

We  saw  the  red  bornouses  and  white  turbans  of  the  spahis, 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  129 

their  flashing  sahres  above  their  heads,  dashing  upon  the 
Kabyles,  whose  rout  was  completed  by  a  charge  of  our 
infantry ;  and  the  field  was  won.  The  squadron  of  spahis  had 
left  Algiers,  as  ordered,  two  hours  after  our  departure,  and 
were  leisurely  following  our  trail,  when,  hearing  the  din  of 
battle,  they  had  galloped  up  just  in  time  to  decide  the  combat. 
The  enemy  were  now  in  full  retreat,  pursued  by  the  spahis, 
who  mercilessly  cut  them  down  as  they  ran. 

Our  tired  and  exhausted  soldiers  were  then  marched  to  a 
pleasant  bivouac  near  by ;  and,  with  the  readiness  peculiar  to 
Frenchmen,  the  whole  force  was  soon  under  shelter  from  the 
burning  sun.  Fires  were  kindled,  and  cooking  began;  while 
the  soldiers  divested  themselves  of  their  arms  and  accoutre- 
ments, and  lay  around  in  groups  under  the  trees,  or  near  the 
water.  Soon  the  spahis  were  seen  returning  from  the  pursuit 
in  a  cool,  sauntering  manner,  contrasting  strongly  with  their 
former  impetuosity,  and  unlike  the  eager,  talkative  Gaul. 
They  sat  solemn  and  straight  upon  their  saddles,  silent  and 
almost  motionless,  many  of  them  being  Mussulmans.  Every 
spahi  bore  some  spoil  of  war,  —  Kabyle  "  flissos,"  yatagans, 
guns,  pistols,  and  trinkets  of  different  kinds. 

These  doughty  cavaliers  were  headed  by  their  officer, — 
a  slender,  blonde  young  man,  who  was  evidently  one  of  the 
jeunesse  doree,  although  attired  in  the  costume  of  an  Oriental 
Frenchman.  The  Vicomte  de  Bertrand  could  never  have  been 
mistaken  for  a  Turk,  notwithstanding  his  dress ;  for  his  air, 
actions,  and  gestures  instantly  betrayed  his  nationality.  On 
his  head  was  a  snowy  turban  of  irreproachable  twist,  rolled 
around  a  "  checia,"  placed  far  back  on  his  head,  like  those  of 
the  "  Turcos  ;  "  and  his  blonde  mustache  hung  down  from  the 
corners  of  his  mouth,  of  a  shape  and  length  equally  forbidden 
to  true  believers.  Although  his  garments  were  of  the  regu- 
lation color  of  the  spahi  uniform,  his  red  vest  was  embroi- 
dered with  gold  in  fantastic  designs  unknown  to  the 


130  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

ordonnance ;  and  his  light-blue  trousers  terminated  in  red 
morocco  boots,  that  would  not  have  been  out  of  place  at 
Franconi's.  He  bestrode  a  fine  sorrel-horse,  lithe  and  slender 
like  himself,  showily  caparisoned  a  la  Turque,  and  which 
seemed  to  partake  of  his  rider's  disposition,  as  the  pair  ad- 
vanced towards  the  bivouac  curvetting  and  prancing,  horse 
and  rider  on  excellent  terms  with  each  other.  Notwithstand- 
ing his  dramatic  and  exaggerated  Orientalism,  I  was  informed 
that  the  vicomte  was  an  excellent  officer,  and  a  man  of 
brilliant  and  generous  qualities  ;  which  report  I  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  verifying  before  we  parted. 

I  strolled  towards  the  spahis,  who  were  now  mingling  with 
their  comrades ;  when  suddenly  I  heard  a  salutation  in  Spanish 
in  a  well-remembered  voice,  "  Ah  !  mi  teniente  que  alegria  de 
verle  !  "  and,  could  it  be  —  yes,  it  certainly  was  —  my  old 
friend  and  trusty  squire  here  in  Africa,  —  Manuel  Blasco  y 
Gusman  ? 

Blasco  was  mounted  upon  a  spirited  Arab,  a  red  bornouse 
hanging  from  his  shoulders  instead  of  the  capa  parda,  on  his 
head  the  spahi  turban  in  place  of  his  montera,  and  from  the 
pommel  of  his  saddle  there  dangled  by  the  mahomet — a 
long  lock  of  hair  left  by  all  Osmanlees  to  hoist  them  into 
paradise  —  a  grisly  human  head.  We  had  much  to  say  to 
each  other  at  this  unexpected  meeting ;  for  Blasco  was  as  gar- 
rulous and  declamatory  as  ever.  We  rested  all  night  at  this 
bivouac  without  further  adventure,  and  next  day  arrived  at 
Blidah. 

This  city  was  celebrated  under  the  Turkish  rule  as  a 
sojourn  of  pleasure,  and  known  as  the  "voluptuous."  It 
always  had  a  large  population,  and  is  famed  for  the  excellence 
of  its  oranges  and  lemons.  It  was  taken  by  the  French  army 
under  Marshal  Clausel  in  1830.  The  foot  hills  of  the  Atlas 
range  approach  its  walls  quite  nearly;  and  it  overlooks  the 
fertile  plain  of  the  Metidja,  and  commands  the  passes  of  those 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  131 

mountains.  The  surrounding  country  is  remarkable  for  the 
beauty  of  its  landscapes,  the  richness  of  its  soil,  the  salubrity 
of  its  atmosphere,  and  the  abundance  of  its  waters. 

The  city  is  charmingly  ensconced  in  a  perfumed  forest  of 
oranges,  limes,  mulberry,  figs,  jujubes,  dates,  and  other  African 
trees.  These  rich  groves  are  watered  by  the  Oned  Kebir,  the 
sources  of  which  are  not  far  from  the  city.  I  was  the  guest 
of  the  colonel  commanding  the  garrison,  and  his  amiable  lady, 
in  a  luxurious  palace  which  had  once  belonged  to  a  rich 
Moslem.  I  made  some  excursions  in  the  neighborhood  in 
company  with  the  French  officers,  so  far  as  was  prudent  on 
account  of  the  lurking  Kabyles. 

After  several  days  passed  in  a  most  agreeable  manner,  I 
returned  to  Algiers  and  to  the  ship  under  the  protection  of 
the  spahis,  gratefully  acknowledging  the  hospitality  of  my 
friends.  I  left  Manuel  Blasco  in  Algiers ;  that  worthy  inform- 
ing me  that  he  had  decided  to  take  up  his  residence  in  that 
city  after  the  termination  of  his  enlistment,  or  even  before 
that  time  if  he  could  obtain  his  discharge.  I  rather  doubted 
his  purpose,  until  he  introduced  me  to  a  portly  Mahonese 
lady,  who  kept  a  hotel  and  baths,  and  appeared  to  possess  a 
fair  portion  of  this  world's  goods  and  a  fine  run  of  custom. 
She  was  a  widow  whom  he  had  won  by  his  blandishments,  and 
who  —  I  afterwards  heard — consented  to  marry  him;  and 
Blasco  became  very  popular  in  his  capacity  of  landlord. 


XVII. 

A  FTER  returning  from  the  Mediterranean,  I  was  almost 
-£A_  immediately  ordered  to  join  the  squadron  of  Com.  George 
C.  Read,  and  with  it  made  a  cruise  of  circumnavigation. 

Stopping  at  Madeira  and  the  cape  on  our  outward  voyage, 
we  entered  the  Mozambique  Channel,  and  anchored  at  Zanzi- 
bar, then  under  the  government  of  the  imam,  Syeed  Syeed 
bin  Sultan  of  Muscat. 

This  prince  was  a  Mussulman  of  the  strictest  sect ;  and, 
although  more  liberal  than  most  Eastern  despots,  had  attained 
supreme  power  by  the  usual  stages  of  crime,  among  which 
were  the  murders  of  several  of  his  nearest  relatives.  Having 
gained  the  object  of  his  ambition,  he  adopted  a  conciliatory 
domestic  policy,  and  was  tolerant,  even  generous,  to  foreigners; 
so  that,  in  time,  he  became  the  most  popular  of  Asiatic  rulers. 
He  also  greatly  extended  his  dominions,  and  added  to  the 
hereditary  possessions  of  his  house  nearly  the  whole  coast  of 
Africa,  from  Cape  Guardafui  south  to  the  Portuguese  settle- 
ments, with  which  nation  he  was  thus  brought  into  collision. 
The  imam  was  at  Zanzibar  on  our  arrival,  and  received  us  hos- 
pitably, insisting  on  furnishing  the  whole  crew  with  provisions 
during  our  stay. 

Visiting  the  imam  at  his  palace  at  Mtony,  we  found  him  a 
handsome  middle-aged  man,  of  fine  personal  appearance,  evi- 
dently a  full-blooded  Arab,  with  the  slender  form,  clear  olive 
skin,  regular  and  handsome  features,  and  small  delicate  ex- 

132 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  133 

tremities,  of  that  race.  In  his  deportment  he  was  a  perfectly 
well-bred  gentleman ;  and  his  manners  far  surpassed  in  courtesy 
and  grace  the  most  refined  European  standard. 

His  son,  who  was  present  at  the  interview,  was  of  the  same 
type  as  his  father.  Among  others  of  his  suite  was  a  tall, 
stalwart  negro,  conspicuous  by  his  costly  dress,  and  who  was 
acting  then  as  vizier,  being  a  man  of  uncommon  intellect  for 
one  of  his  race,  in  spite,  as  it  seemed,  of  the  cruelty  which 
had  deprived  him  of  his  manhood;  for  he  was  a  eunuch. 
Having  turned  Mussulman  while  a  slave  of  the  imam, 
he  had  been  manumitted  in  conformity  with  the  laws  of  the 
Wahabee  sect  of  Glam,  which  forbid  the  enslavement  of  a 
believer  in  the  Prophet.  I  was  told  a  singular  story  of  this 
eunuch ;  and,  as  it  illustrates  the  peculiar  military  policy  of 
the  prince,  I  will  repeat  it. 

Ahmed  had  been  from  boyhood  the  personal  attendant  of 
Syeed.  He  became  attached  to  his  master,  served  him  with 
affectionate  fidelity,  and  was  his  chief  agent  in  the  accomplish- 
ment of  the  crimes  by  which  that  prince  mounted  to  his 
throne. 

When  the  imam  began  his  wars  for  conquest,  he  coveted 
possession  of  the  town  of  Momtas,  on  the  mainland  of  Africa, 
not  far  from  Zanzibar.  He  accordingly  blockaded  that  sea- 
port with  his  fleet,  having  a  land  force  on  board  his  ships ;  but 
the  Portuguese  had  no  idea  of  surrendering  as  long  as  they 
could  hold  the  castle.  This  castle  is  situated  upon  an  island 
in  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  commands  the  entrance,  and  is  the 
key  to  the  place. 

The  troops  of  the  imam,  as  is  customary  in  Arabia,  con- 
sisted of  his  own  black  slaves,  naked,  and  armed  with  a  long 
straight  sword,  and  a  small  target,  or  buckler,  of  rhinoceros- 
hide,  in  the  use  of  which  they  are  very  skilful. 

Finding  the  garrison  obstinate  in  spite  of  his  blockade,  the 
imam  hit  upon  an  original  and  ingenious  expedient  to  gain 

12 


134  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

the  castle.  Taking  advantage  of  a  dark  night,  he  manned  all 
his  boats,  and  put  into  them  five  hundred  picked  men  com- 
manded by  Ahmed. 

Rowing  in  close  to  the  beach  with  muffled  oars,  this  forlorn 
hope  was  landed  on  the  island  as  near  the  walls  as  possible ; 
and  then  the  imam  addressed  them  in  low  tones. 

After  appealing  to  their  courage  and  fidelity,  he  threw  his 
blood-red  flag  to  the  intrepid  eunuch  in  command  of  the  storm- 
ing party,  and  said,  "  I  am  determined  to  possess  that  castle 
by  to-morrow  morning ;  and  I  command  you  to  hoist  that  flag 
upon  its  highest  tower  before  the  dawn.  Should  you  remain 
where  you  now  are,  the  enemy  will  probably  exterminate  you 
at  dawn ;  but  should  he  foolishly  spare  you,  and  I  do  not  see 
my  flag  flying  from  the  castle  at  daylight,  I  shall  then  open  the 
fire  of  my  ships,  not  upon  the  walls  of  the  fort,  but  upon  you." 
The  imam  then  coolly  left  the  bewildered  negroes  to  their 
kismet  (fate),  and  regained  his  ship.  How  many  of  the 
devoted  band  were  slain,  I  know  not ;  but,  when  the  first  gray 
light  of  approaching  day  fell  upon  the  walls  of  the  Castle  of 
Momtas,  it  revealed  that  red  flag  streaming  from  its  battle- 
ments :  the  garrison  had  passed  under  the  edge  of  the  sword, 
and  the  town  and  its  dependencies  capitulated  to  the  imam, 
who  anchored  his  ships  in  the  harbor,  and  took  possession. 

Our  cruise  extended  to  the  Eed  Sea,  Muscat,  the  ports  of 
the  Persian  Gulf,  and  Surat ;  and  we  finally  anchored  in  the 
harbor  of  Bombay,  where  the  squadron  rendezvoused. 

The  war  with  Cabul  broke  out  about  this  time ;  and  a  large 
army,  destined  to  act  against  that  country,  was  united  from 
the  three  presidencies  of  British  India  at  Bombay  under  the 
command  of  Lord  Keane.  The  subsequent  operations  and 
disastrous  defeat  of  a  part  of  this  army  have  been  told  by 
Lady  Florence  Sale,  wife  of  Sir  Robert  Sale,  who  was  in  the 
campaign  with  her  husband,  and  taken  prisoner  by  the  emir, 
Dost  Mahomet. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  135 

The  presence  of  so  many  officers  made  Bombay  quite  a  gay 
city  while  we  lay  there ;  and,  shortly  before  we  sailed,  I  wit- 
nessed the  march  of  the  army,  —  a  most  curious  military 
spectacle. 

The  host  of  fifty  thousand  combatants  was  encamped  on  the 
wide  glacis  of  the  walled  and  fortified  city,  which  extends  in  a 
semicircular  form  about  one  and  a  half  miles  towards  the 
populous  surrounding  suburbs. 

In  the  centre  of  this  fine  esplanade  we  were  stationed  near 
the  statue  of  Lord  Cornwallis,  which  commands  a  view  of  the 
whole  area. 

The  troops  had  all  gathered  at  their  respective  camps,  and 
the  regimental  parades  were  succeeded  by  a  rest  in  place  ; 
when,  at  the  sound  of  the  sunset-gun  from  the  fortress,  every 
tent  was  struck,  disappearing  as  if  by  the  wand  of  an 
enchanter. 

At  the  same  time  the  band  struck  up  the  fine  old  English 

air,  — 

"Don't  you  hear  your  general  say, 
Strike  your  tents,  and  march  away  1"  — 

and  the  leading  regiment,  followed  by  all  the  other  corps  in 
column  of  companies,  took  up  the  march,  which,  in  India,  is 
nearly  always  at  night,  in  order  to  avoid  the  heat. 

First  came  several  regiments  of  European  infantry,  all 
stalwart,  well-drilled  men,  evidently  superior  in  physique  to 
the  natives ;  then  some  fine  field-batteries,  escorted  by  the 
British  regular  light-cavalry,  hussars,  and  lancers  ;  then  more 
batteries  of  native  artillery,  followed  by  several  thousand  native 
irregulars,  mounted  on  Persian  horses,  and  presenting  a  some- 
what mediaeval  appearance,  being  clad  in  shirts  of  glittering 
mail,  with  steel  helms  and  shields,  armed  with  matchlocks, 
javelins,  and  even  bows  and  arrows. 

These  troops  were  more  picturesque  than  efficient,  I  should 
suppose:  for  there  was  little  uniformity  among  them;  each 


136  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

man  owning  his  horse,  as  I  was  told,  and  furnishing  his  own 
arms. 

After  these  came  the  Sepoy  infantry,  twenty  thousand  strong, 
—  a  noble-looking  body  of  men.  The  siege-train,  escorted  by 
native  cavalry,  closed  the  long  procession  of  regular  troops. 

Then  followed  a  crowd  of  people  unknown  to  European 
armies,  but  who  in  India  greatly  outnumber  the  regular  sol- 
diers,—  the  camp-followers;  a  cosmopolitan  throng  of  men 
and  women,  in  all  the  varied  costumes  of  the  East,  —  Euro- 
peans, Persians,  Mahometans,  Gentoos,  Parsees,  on  horseback 
and  on  foot,  in  vehicles  of  all  sorts,  drawn  by  horses,  bullocks, 
asses,  and  mules,  —  some  borne  in  palanquins,  some  riding 
bullocks,  and  a  few  on  camels,  mingled  with  the  syces  (grooms) 
of  the  officers,  with  their  beautiful  led  horses ;  while  at  inter- 
vals in  the  long  array  might  be  seen  the  stately  movement 
of  the  colossal  elephant. 

This  motley  crowd  were  all  talking  and  hallooing  amid  the 
rout  and  dust,  in  strange  contrast  to  the  silence  of  the  disci- 
plined masses  that  preceded  them. 

Having  visited  the  celebrated  cave-temples,  and  seen  the 
other  objects  of  curiosity  in  this  part  of  India,  we  sailed,  and, 
after  touching  at  Goa,  arrived  at  Colombo,  in  Ceylon.  While 
at  this  port  we  heard  of  several  acts  of  piracy  committed  by 
the  Malays  of  Sumatra,  and  sailed  for  that  island  to  punish 
them.  To  detail  all  the  events  that  took  place  during  our 
stay  here  would  hardly  interest  the  general  reader,  so  long  a 
time  has  elapsed  since  their  occurrence.  I  will  therefore 
content  myself  with  saying  that  we  remained  about  three 
months  on  the  coast  of  Sumatra,  engaged  alternately  in  threat- 
ening, negotiating,  and  fighting  the  Malays.  One  town, 
Muckie,  we  entirely  destroyed,  as  an  example  to  the  rest,  — 
pour  encourager  les  autres,  —  some  of  its  people  having  taken 
the  American  bark  "  Eclipse  "  of  Salem,  murdered  the  captain 
and  others,  and  plundered  the  vessel  of  a  large  sum.  Expo- 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  137 

sure  and  hardship  on  the  Sumatrian  coast  introduced  the 
cholera  and  dysentery  among  our  crews.  The  squadron  was 
compelled  to  quit  the  coast ;  and  March,  1839,  saw  us  at  anchor 
at  Singapore. 

From  Singapore  we  went  to  China,  and  remained  there  for 
some  months,  engaged  in  attending  to  American  interests ; 
and  then  sailed  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  we  arrived  in 
due  season,  after  having  experienced  a  terrible  typhoon  in  the 
China  Sea  while  passing  through  the  Bashu  Passage  into  the 
great  Southern  Ocean. 

After  visiting  several  of  the  most  prominent  island-groups 
of  this  ocean  more  or  less  frequented  hy  navigators,  we  hove  to 
off  the  tiny  island  known  as  Pitcairn's.  This  mere  point  in 
the  great  Pacific  Ocean  is  well  known  as  the  home  of  the 
descendants  of  the  mutineers  of  "The  Bounty,"  —  children  of 
Englishmen  by  Tahitian  women,  and  immortalized  by  Byron 
in  the  beautiful  poem  "  The  Island." 

After  the  mutiny,  and  the  arrival  of  Capt.  Bligh  in  England, 
—  before  which  he  endured  incredible  hardships,  and  crossed  the 
broad  Pacific  in  the  launch  of  "  The  Bounty,"  in  which  he  and 
his  officers  were  set  adrift,  —  the  British  Government  sought 
assiduously  but  vainly  to  discover  the  refuge  of  the  mutineers. 
They  were  found  at  last,  accidentally,  by  an  American  whale- 
ship,  upon  Pitcairn's  Island,  which  had  always  been  supposed 
to  be  uninhabited.  The  ringleaders  of  the  mutiny  having 
nearly  all  died,  and  time  having  weakened  the  government's 
resolution  to  inflict  vengeance  upon  the  poor  remnant,  the 
king  took  the  islanders  under  his  protection  ;  and,  Pitcairn's 
being  considered  too  small  for  its  increased  population,  the 
inhabitants  were  removed  to  Norfolk  Island.  But  they  were 
so  unhappy  in  their  new  abode,  that  they  were  soon  remanded 
to  their  original  and  native  home,  in  which,  for  more  than  forty 
years,  they  had  been  secluded  from  the  rest  of  the  world,  and 
ignorant  of  any  other  of  that  world's  empires. 
12* 


138  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

There  were  originally  five  couples  of  English  and  Tahitians  ; 
and  from  these  had  descended  the  population  of  the  island  — 
three  hundred  and  more  —  at  the  time  of  our  visit.  The  widow 
of  Fletcher  Christian,  the  ringleader  of  the  mutiny  of  "  The 
Bounty,"  was  still  living.  There  were  also  three  Englishmen 
landed  on  the  island  since  its  rediscovery  with  their  children 
by  island  wives. 

Although  the  increase  had  been  great  in  the  population  of 
the  little  islet,  —  for  it  is  no  more  than  an  islet,  and  one  can 
row  all  round  it  in  a  boat  in  three  or  four  hours,  —  there  were 
yet  no  persons  among  them  over  fifty  ;  which  was  considered  a 
great  age,  and  about  the  usual  limit  of  human  life,  as  I  dis- 
covered in  conversing  with  the  people.  The  increase  of  the 
population,  then,  was  due,  not  to  longevity  but  to  their  prac- 
tice of  early  marriage,  and  consequent  fruitfulness. 

What  evidence  of  a  general  law  are  we  to  deduce  from  this 
state  of  things  ? 

Christian  and  his  companions,  with  their  Tahitian  wives, 
landed  at  Pitcairn's  in  1789 ;  and  in  1840  there  were  but  ten 
survivors  of  the  first  generation,  the  children  of  the  mutineers, 
although  these  islanders  came  into  the  world  under  circum- 
stances apparently  favorable  to  longevity.  Why  this  pre- 
mature decay  ?  Not  hereditary  disposition;  for  the  Tahitians 
are  a  long-lived  race,  and  there  never  were  epidemics  on  the 
island.  Neither  could  they  complain  of  too  monotonous  or 
insufficient  nourishment ;  for  the  land  was  very  productive.  I 
can  truly  say,  I  never  beheld  a  more  athletic  and  admirably- 
formed  people,  or  one  seemingly  more  free  from  any  signs  of 
physical  inferiority.  It  could  not  arise  from  intermarriage, 
the  effect  of  which  would  be  visible  in  mental  and  physical 
degeneration  as  well  as  abridgment  of  life.  On  the  other 
hand,  we  know,  that  in  some  countries,  —  the  Alps  and  Norway, 
for  example,  —  cousins  constantly  marry  each  other  for  long- 
continued  generations,  from  necessity ;  and  nowhere  can  bo 
seen  more  robust  or  long-lived  people. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  139 

There  must  be  some  other  cause ;  and  this  I  find  in  their 
isolated  condition. 

A  state  of  monotonous  peace  and  contentment,  preserved  by 
careful  vigilance  or  absence  of  temptation,  is  not  the  normal 
state  of  man,  nor  one  in  which  his  energies  have  the  healthy 
play  which  insures  durability  of  constitution.  The  average 
man  of  our  modern  civilization,  even  in  the  United  States, 
—  where  his  labors  are  greater,  perhaps,  than  in  any  other 
country,  with  his  burden  of  cares  and  passions,  his  wasting 
exertions  amid  earnest  competitions,  —  has  no  cause  to  believe 
in  a  general  shortening  of  the  span  of  life  allotted  to  him. 
Neither  is  a  savage  liable  to  this  complaint ;  for,  should  he 
escape  the  casualties  of  quarrels  and  war  and  epidemics,  he  is 
likely  to  live  long. 

The  wild  tension  of  his  energies  and  passions,  the  sharp 
spur  given  to  his  faculties  by  their  constant  exercise  in  the 
service  of  the  instinct  of  self  preservation,  all  tend  to  maintain 
the  vigor  of  his  powers,  and  to  counterbalance  the  effects  of 
habitual  sloth  and  frequent  excesses.  But,  when  the  constitu- 
tion lacks  one  or  the  other  of  these  stimuli,  there  seems  to  be 
a  tendency  to  early  decay.  It  is  not  intellectual  exercise  that 
is  wanting,  or  that  given  by  education ;  neither  is  it  bodily 
exercise,  —  for  Pitcairners  have  enough  of  both,  —  but  it  is  the 
exercise  of  other  mixed  powers  implanted  within  us,  — the  pas- 
sions of  hope  and  fear,  the  desire  of  achievement,  and  the 
triumph  of  success.  The  mere  animal  enjoyment  of  life,  for  a 
while,  may  be  a  substitute  for  these  in  early  youth  ;  but  it 
cannot  outlast  natural  growth ;  and,  in  the  mechanical  pro- 
longation of  it  which  follows,  the  faculties  seem  to  wane  in  a 
gentle  decline.  This  is  not  a  wild  conclusion  from  an  insulated 
and  peculiar  case  ;  for  the  same  phenomena  may  be  witnessed 
elsewhere,  as  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  the  Tonga,  the  Navi- 
gator, and  Samoan  groups,  and,  in  fact,  in  most  of  the  Pacific 
islands. 


140  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

At  the  termination  of  this  cruise  I  remained  but  a  few 
months  on  shore,  and,  having  been  ordered  to  the  corvette 
"  St.  Louis,"  sailed  for  the  old  cruis ing-ground  in  the  West 
Indies. 

We  were  among  the  Windward  Islands,  westward  from  St. 
Thomas,  one  day,  when  I  had  charge  of  the  deck  under  a  clear, 
pleasant  sky ;  and,  as  the  regular  trade-wind  of  the  tropics 
was  blowing,  the  ship  was  running  along  free,  under  all 
sail,  when  the  lookout  cried  from  the  masthead,  "  Breakers 
ahead!"  I  knew  by  the  reckoning  that  we  were  several 
hundred  miles  distant  from  land,  but  immediately  shortened 
sail ;  while  the  captain,  officers,  and  crew,  startled  by  the  cry, 
came  running  on  deck. 

Then  occurred  a  remarkable  event.  The  ship  headed 
westerly,  with  the  wind,  which  had  died  almost  to  a  calm,  on 
the  starboard  quarter.  On  the  lee-beam  the  ocean  seemed 
much  agitated  ;  and  soon  a  huge  "  comber  "  appeared,  extend- 
ing to  the  horizon  on  either  end,  and  apparently  over  thirty 
feet  in  height  above  the  sea-level.  All  hands  were  called ;  and 
we  wore  ship  to  the  southward,  and  brought  by  the  wind  on 
the  port  tack,  while  carpenters  were  battening  down  the 
hatches  fore  and  aft. 

As  the  ship  came  by  the  wind,  it  suddenly  fell  calm  ;  but 
she  now  headed  the  great  wave,  which  rushed  onwards  with  a 
terrible  roar  and  irresistible  momentum.  It  struck  her ;  and 
her  bows  were  raised  high  in  the  air,  almost  bringing  her 
deck  perpendicular,  and  throwing  every  man  off  his  feet  who 
had  not  secured  himself  to  something  in  anticipation  of  the 
expected  shock. 

She  was  one  of  the  deep-waisted  class  of  slopps-of-war, 
with  heavy  bulwarks  full  seven  feet  from  the  deck  to  the 
hammock-nettings,  —  of  all  vessels  the  worst  to  be  boarded 
by  a  heavy  sea.  Fortunately,  the  ports  were  all  out ;  which 
proved  our  salvation.  For  about  two  minutes,  I  suppose,  — 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  141 

it  seemed  a  much  longer  time,  —  the  ship,  her  crew,  and 
every  thing  about  the  deck,  were  completely  submerged.  At 
my  post  on  the  poop  I  felt  the  good  ship  tremble  through  all 
her  timbers  under  the  weight  of  water  on  her  deck,  and 
clung  to  the  mizzen-rigging,  in  which  I  had  lashed  myself. 
She  then  came  up  slowly  to  the  surface,  the  water  pouring 
from  her  port-holes  in  torrents;  while  the  great  wave,  or 
bore,  was  seen  and  heard  far  beyond  her,  steadily  moving 
with  great  velocity  on  its  mysterious  course.  Three  other 
waves  followed  the  first,  but  greatly  diminished  in  size  and 
volume ;  then  the  surface  of  the  ocean  resumed  its  natural 
appearance,  and  the  trade-winds  again  set  in.  The  ship  sus- 
tained little  harm;  and,  although  a  few  men  were  badly 
bruised,  there  was  no  serious  damage  to  life  or  limb.  A  great 
many  articles  were  washed  overboard,  however ;  and,  for 
months  after,  every  thing  lost  was  laid  to  the  great  sea 
bore. 

It  is  my  belief,  that  had  this  disaster  occurred  at  night, 
or  had  the  ship  received  the  shock  anywhere  but  on  her 
bows,  she  must  have  gone  down,  and  left  not  a  soul  to  tell 
the  tale  of  how  or  when  she  disappeared,  as  has  happened  to 
many  others,  —  "The  Hornet  "  and  "Albany,"  for  instance, 
whose  fate  remains  a  mystery  to  this  day. 

These  sudden  and  mysterious  disappearances  are  not  very 
uncommon.  I  well  remember  that  of  the  British  sloop-of- 
war,  "Clio,"  in  the  Grecian  Archipelago.  She  sailed  from 
the  Gulf  of  Salamis,  bound  to  Malta,  but  never  reached  her 
destined  port.  Some  days  after  her  departure,  a  violent  ex- 
plosion was  seen  and  heard  from  the  Island  of  Milo  —  which 
is  the  residence  of  the  Archipelago  pilots  —  in  the  midst  of 
a  terrible  squall  of  thunder  and  lightning.  The  experienced 
men  who  saw  this  declared  that  the  explosion  was  not 
caused  by  the  elements ;  and,  as  the  ship  was  to  have 
touched  at  Milo  in  order  to  land  her  Archipelago  pilot,  it 


142  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

was  concluded  that  an  electric  flash  must  have  fired  her  maga- 
zine, in  an  instant  sending  ship,  crew,  Greek  pilot,  and  all, 
into  eternity. 

These  "  bores  "  —  which,  happily,  are  seldom  encountered  — 
are,  I  believe,  attributed  to  volcanic  disturbance  of  the  ocean- 
bed  ;  an  opinion  I  think  erroneous.  They  are  due,  I  believe, 
like  earthquakes,  to  the  subtle  and  omnipresent  electric  fluid 
which  pervades  all  Nature,  and  even  the  whole  stellar  sys- 
tem ;  the  sun  being  now  well  ascertained  to  be  in  electric 
communication  and  sympathy  with  the  earth.  But  to  enter 
upon  this  subject  would  be  not  only  out  of  place  here,  but 
would  render  my  little  memoranda  of  service  too  diffuse  and 
voluminous. 


XVIII. 

IN  1845  I  sailed  from  the  Chesapeake  in  a  corvette  des- 
tined to  re-enforce  our  squadron  in  the  Pacific,  and  arrived 
in  due  season  at  Mazatlan,  in  which  port  we  found  the  fleet 
assembled  under  the  command  of  Com.  Sloat.  My  ship 
was  shortly  after  ordered  to  the  coast  of  California,  then 
an  insignificant  Mexican  province,  in  which  but  little  interest 
was  taken  by  the  world,  and  the  population  of  which  was  but 
a  few  thousand. 

As  the  details  of  my  experience  in  California,  during  that 
cruise,  have  already  been  published  in  "A  Tour  of  Duty  in 
California,"  printed  in  1849,  I  will  only  advert  here  to  such 
events  as  are  necessary  to  preserve  the  continuity  of  my  nar- 
rative, and,  resuming  the  thread  of  my  story  at  the  end  of 
that  book,  pass  to  those  of  succeeding  years  in  the  order 
they  occurred ;  thus  furnishing  a  sequel  to  that  little  volume. 

The  14th  of  June,  1846,  must  be  regarded  as  a  memorable 
day  in  the  history  of  California ;  for  then  her  "  manifest  des- 
tiny" became  apparent,  impelling  her  to  "gravitate  "  towards 
the  Union.  The  movement  was  inaugurated  at  the  little  town 
of  Sonoma,  the  scene  of  the  ancient  mission  of  San  Francisco 
Solano ;  the  Mexican  flag  having  been  struck,  and  what  was 
known  as  the  "  bear-flag "  substituted  for  it ;  while  a  pro- 
visional government  was  established,  countenanced,  and  au- 
thorized by  Fremont,  under  instructions  from  Washington. 
Soon  afterwards  the  whole  United-States  squadron  arrived 

143 


144  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

at  Monterey;  and  on  the  7th  of  July,  1846,  Com.  Sloat 
issued  his  proclamation,  taking  formal  possession  of  the 
Californias  in  the  name  of  the  United  States,  landing  his 
forces  at  the  same  time,  and  hoisting  the  American  flag.  By 
previous  arrangement,  the  flag  was  also  raised,  and  the  proc- 
lamation read  and  promulgated,  at  Yerba  Buena,  now  San 
Francisco,  and  other  principal  localities.  In  command  of  a 
party  from  the  ship,  I  had  the  honor  to  hoist  the  flag  at  So- 
noma; and,  in  less  than  a  week,  all  Upper  California  was 
in  our  possession. 

It  is  a  significant  fact,  that  only  the  day  after  taking  pos- 
session, and  even  before  the  excitement  of  that  event  had 
subsided,  her  Majesty's  ship  "  Corn wallis,"  Admiral  Sir  Mi- 
chael Seymour,  arrived  at  Monterey  with  orders  like  Com. 
Sloat's,  —  to  take  possession  of  the  country  as  security  for 
British  holders  of  Mexican  bonds.  Admiral  Seymour's  or- 
ders, however,  were  conditional;  and  seeing  the  stars  and 
stripes  at  the  flagstaff  on  shore,  and  learning  what  had  taken 
place,  he  soon  sailed  away. 

Alta  California,  thus  seized  in  consequence  of  the  war 
between  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  was  held  until  the 
new  year ;  when  a  revolt  broke  out  at  the  Pueblo  do  los 
Angeles,  and  Lieut.  Gillespie  of  the  marines,  commanding  the 
garrison,  was  forced  to  retreat  to  San  Pedro,  where  he  em- 
barked. 

In  a  subsequent  attempt  to  recover  the  Pueblo  by  Capt. 
Mervine  of  the  frigate  "Savannah,"  his  force  was  repulsed; 
whereupon  Com.  Stockton  —  who  had  succeeded  Sloat  — 
assembled  all  the  naval  force  at  San  Diego,  while  Fremont 
marched  by  land,  to  attempt  its  recapture,  it  being  regarded 
as  the  capital  of  Upper  California. 

The  squadron  made  their  rendezvous  at  San  Diego;  and 
Stockton  immediately  set  about  preparing  a  force  to  march 
upon  the  Pueblo,  while  Fremont  was  approaching  the  same 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  145 

point  from  the  north.  Just  at  this  time,  Brig. -Gen.  Stephen 
W.  Kearney  arrived  in  California  by  the  overland  route  from 
Sante  Fe.  He  was  attacked  by  a  party  of  Californians  under 
Andres  Pico  at  San  Bernardino:  several  of  the  officers  and 
soldiers  of  his  escort  were  killed  and  wounded,  and  his  baggage 
and  a  field-piece  fell  into  the  enemy's  hands.  Kit  Carson, 
who  was  with  the  general,  brought  the  news  of  his  arrival  to 
San  Diego ;  and  he  was  safely  brought  into  our  garrison  by  a 
party  sent  for  the  purpose. 

Com.  Stockton,  having  completed  his  preparations,  set  forth 
towards  the  Pueblo  at  the  head  of  four  hundred  seamen,  sixty 
dismounted  dragoons  of  Kearneyrs  escort,  fifty  California 
volunteers,  and  a  light  battery.  He  first  encountered  the 
enemy  —  about  five  hundred  cavalry,  with  artillery  —  at  the 
ford  of  the  River  San  Gabriel,  not  far  from  the  Angelic  capital, 
on  the  8th  of  January,  and  celebrated  the  day  by  a  spirited 
little  fight.  Having  forced  the  passage  of  the  San  Gabriel, 
our  little  column  debouched  upon  the  "Mesa,"  a  table-land 
some  four  leagues  in  extent,  through  which  runs  the  road 
from  San  Diego  to  the  Pueblo  de  los  Angeles.  As  we  came 
in  sight  of  its  white  walls  in  the  afternoon,  we  saw  a  long  pro- 
cession of  horsemen  issuing  from  the  town,  and  directing  their 
march  towards  us.  It  soon  became  evident  they  meant  to 
oppose  our  progress ;  and  our  jolly  tars  were  in  high  spirits  as 
they  formed  in  square,  the  artillery  at  the  angles,  to  receive 
them.  The  ground  was  a  perfectly  level,  treeless  plain,  and 
thus  admirably  fitted  for  the  evolutions  of  both  infantry  and 
cavalry.  The  enemy's  cavaliers  were  about  two  thousand 
strong,  principally  rancheros,  and  the  best  horsemen,  probably, 
in  the  world.  They  were  dressed  in  the  Mexican  costume,  in 
gay  scrapes  of  all  colors,  and  divided  into  bands,  or  squadrons, 
each  of  which  had  some  kind  of  music,  —  trumpets,  bugles, 
and  even  guitars  and  fiddles.  They  were  armed  with  the 
escopeta  (a  clumsy  carbine),  a  few  with  pistols  and  rifles,  and 
13 


146  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

some  with  sabres  and  machetes  ;  but  by  far  the  larger  part 
had  only  a  short  lance,  with  a  long  blade,  that  could  be  used 
with  one  hand.  Many  flags  streamed  over  the  column ;  some 
troopers  having  gayly-colored  handkerchiefs  fixed  to  their 
lances,  which,  fluttering  in  the  breeze,  gave  a  festal  aspect  to 
the  concourse.  Confidently  approaching  our  little  force,  they 
sent  their  led  horses  to  the  rear  under  charge  of  their 
vaqueros,  and  began  their  dispositions  for  an  assured  victory, 
forming  in  two  columns  with  a  squadron  front,  opposed  to  two 
faces  of  our  square. 

Meanwhile  our  men  stood  firm,  as  it  had  been  thought  best 
to  withhold  our  fire  until  the  charge  was  made.  Orders 
were  issued  to  wait  until  the  enemy  came  within  pistol-shot ; 
but  our  sailors,  seeing  a  tumultuous,  noisy  crowd  of  men 
and  horses  rushing  upon  them  with  cries  and  waving  flags, 
opened  fire  at  half-musket  range  rather  prematurely.  Our 
cartridges,  being  an  ounce  ball  and  three  buck-shot,  proved 
very  destructive.  Men  and  horses  tumbled  over  in  consider- 
able numbers,  and  the  six-pound  field-guns  completed  their 
discomfiture.  They  retired,  however,  in  tolerable  order,  carry- 
ing off  the  wounded,  —  those  who  had  lost  their  horses  hanging 
by  the  stirrups  of  the  more  fortunate,  —  and  again  formed  for 
another  charge.  Three  times  they  essayed  to  shake  our  square ; 
but,  being  steadily  met  with  the  same  withering  fire,  they  at 
last  desisted,  and  rode  off  towards  the  mountains,  leaving  open 
to  us  the  road  to  their  capital,  which  we  entered  on  the  same 
evening. 

The  force  which  attacked  us  on  this  occasion  consisted  of 
native  Californians,  superior  to  Mexicans  in  physical  power 
and  military  spirit,  and  far  better  horsemen;  while  all  the  con- 
ditions of  the  action  were  favorable  for  cavalry  in  attacking 
infantry.  These  men  were  not  only  finely  mounted  on  well- 
trained  horses,  but  had  also  remounts  on  the  field.  Yet  not 
one  of  them  got  within  twenty  yards  of  our  square,  in  the  face 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  147 

of  that  steady  rolling  file-firing ;  nor  was  a  single  bayonet  or 
lance,  on  either  side,  reddened  with  the  blood  of  horse  or  man. 
It  was  a  fair  test  of  the  respective  merits  of  fiery  and  chival- 
rous cavalry  opposed  to  steady  and  disciplined  infantry ;  and 
the  former  was,  as  sportsmen  say,  "  nowhere." 

Their  leader,  Flores,  attacked  our  sailor  battalion  in  prefer- 
ence to  the  volunteer  force  of  Fremont,  which  had  the  prestige 
of  long  frontier  experience,  which  had  habituated  them  to 
Indian  warfare,  and  made  them  unerring  marksmen.  I  think 
he  committed  a  serious  blunder;  and  that,  had  he  engaged 
Fremont's  force,  —  which  had  no  knowledge  of  infantry  drill 
or  discipline,  and  no  bayonets,  —  he  must  have  been  suc- 
cessful. 

This  affair  ended  the  struggle  for  the  possession  of  Upper 
California ;  and  our  squadron  sailed  soon  after  for  the  coast  of 
Mexico,  where  part  of  it  was  employed  in  blockading  Mazatlan 
and  San  Bias,  while  my  ship  was  sent  with  the  frigate 
"Congress"  to  Guaymas.  We  summoned  that  town  to  sur- 
render; but,  receiving  a  defiant  answer,  opened  our  batteries 
the  next  morning,  and  soon  reduced  it  to  a  heap  of  ruins. 
Meanwhile  Mazatlan  was  taken  possession  of,  and  also  the 
important  town  of  San  Jose :  at  Cape  San  Lucas  and  La  Paz 
the  American  flag  was  hoisted,  and  the  province  of  Lower 
California  occupied. 

The  operations  in  the  Pacific  thus  resulted  in  giving  us 
full  possession  of  both  the  Californias,  and  military  occupation 
of  two  of  the  enemy's  most  important  seaports. 

My  ship  now  started  on  her  long  and  tedious  voyage  home 
by  way  of  Cape  Horn,  touching  at  Valparaiso.  It  was  an 
uneventful  voyage,  and  ended  with  our  arrival  at  Boston  in 
June,  1848. 

To  the  inmates  of  a  cruising-ship,  months,  and  even  years, 
seem  a  short  period  in  the  retrospect,  so  few  incidents  occur 
by  which  to  mark  the  time.  One  day  is  like  another;  aud, 


148  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

while  the  dim  vista  of  the  future  stretches  vast  before  us,  we 
wonder  at  the  nothingness  of  the  past  as  the  sands  of  the 
present  drop  unnoticed  away.  Thousands  of  miles  are  trav- 
ersed, marked  by  scarcely  a  change  in  our  habits  of  thought 
or  action.  We  are  conscious  of  no  novelty  save  the  variations 
of  climate,  by  which  we  are.  alternately  "scorched  in  the 
tropics,  and  frozen  at  the  pole." 

After  making  Boston  light  with  a  southerly  breeze,  we 
were  all  thinking  of  a  speedy  arrival  in  harbor,  and  an  early 
meeting  with  friends,  when  —  presto!  the  wind  changed,  and 
flung  a  cloud  over  our  bright  anticipations.  At  midnight  a 
north-east  gale  roared  in  fury ;  and 

"A  heavy  sea  ran  mountains  high, 
And  drenched  the  toiling  crew : 
I  thought  of  home,  I  heaved  a  sigh ; 
Our  good  ship  —  she  heaves  to" 

I  cannot  conclude  this  account  of  my  first  visit  to  California 
without  recording  my  impressions  of  one  spot,  whose  features  will 
ever  linger  pleasantly  in  my  memory.  I  have  seen  most  parts 
of  the  habitable  world ;  and,  as  I  now  recall  their  respective 
beauties  and  advantages,  I  am  forced  to  the  conclusion,  that  in 
climate,  fertility,  and  healthful  conditions,  three  regions  have 
been  specially  favored  by  Nature,  —  the  Valley  of  Mexico, 
Eastern  Syria,  and  Southern  Alta  California.  At  first  thought, 
it  may  seem  strange  that  the  claims  of  this  last-named  region 
have  had  so  feeble  recognition ;  but  it  should  be  remembered, 
that,  thus  far,  California  enterprise  has  demanded  immediate 
results  and  has  ignored  all  opportunities,  however  promising, 
that  did  not  offer  them.  The  resources  of  Southern  Alta 
California  have  been  lost  sight  of  in  the  hot  search  for  instant 
profit.  This  feverish  haste  in  the  race  for  wealth  is  now  sub- 
siding ;  and  the  eyes  of  practical  calculating  wisdom  have 
been  turned  to  this  hitherto-neglected  section  of  the  State. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  149 

Although  the  picture  of  San  Diego,  seen  as  I  sailed  into  its 
harbor  (the  finest,  except  that  of  San  Francisco,  in  California)  ? 
is  still  vivid  in  my  memory,  I  shall  not  attempt  to  reproduce 
it,  or  to  give  any  detailed  account  of  a  place  which  has  heen 
so  accurately  described  by  Mr.  Dana  in  "  Two  Years  before  the 
Mast ; "  but  the  statement  of  a  few  facts  touching  the  situation 
and  material  advantages  of  San  Diego,  toward  which  emigra- 
tion is  now  tending  in  considerable  volume,  may  be  of  service 
to  those  who  seek  information  about  it  as  a  field  of  commercial 
operations. 

San  Diego  is  the  seaport  of  Southern  California.  "  It  stands," 
in  the  language  of  Rev.  Walter  Colton,  in  his  book  published 
in  1850,  "on  the  border-line  of  Alta  California,  and  opens 
upon  a  land-locked  bay  of  surpassing  beauty.  The  climate  is 
soft  and  mild  the  year  round,  the  sky  brilliant,  and  the  atmos- 
phere free  of  those  mists  which  the  cold  currents  throw  on  the 
northern  coast :  the  sea-breeze  cools  the  heat  of  summer ;  and 
the  great  ocean  herself  modulates  into  the  same  temperature 
the  rough  airs  of  winter.  .  .  .  Before  the  eyes  that  fall  on 
these  pages  are  under  death's  shadow,  San  Diego  will  have 
become  the  queen  of  the  south  in  California,  encircled  with 
vineyards  and  fields  of  golden  grain,  and  gathering  into  her 
bosom  the  flowing  commerce  of  the  Colorado  and  Gila." 

This  prophecy  has  not  yet  been  verified ;  but  the  realization 
of  the  visions  is  only  delayed.  At  the  present  time  San 
Diego  contains  thirty  five  hundred  inhabitants,  twenty  to 
thirty  stores,  a  fine  flouring-mill,  several  churches,  free  schools, 
&c.  Its  population  is  unlike  that  of  most  California  cities, 
being  permanent,  and  possessing,  in  a  remarkable  degree,  the 
culture  of  the  Eastern  States.  The  city  is  the  natural  commer- 
cial centre  of  a  vast  extent  of  country  fertile  and  rich  in  min- 
erals, including  all  Southern  California,  Southern  Nevada, 
Arizona,  New  Mexico,  and  Northern  Mexico.  On  the  comple- 
tion of  the  Transcontinental  Railway,  —  which  is  to  be  built  via, 

18* 


150  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

Marshall,  Tex.,  —  San  Diego,  which  will  be  its  coast  terminus, 
will  become  an  important  point  of  trans-shipment  in  the  trade 
with  China  and  Japan,  and  will  compete  not  unsuccessfully 
with  San  Francisco  for  the  commerce  of  the  Orient.  It  is  well 
known  to  mariners  that  vessels  plying  between  Oriental  ports 
and  San  Francisco  invariably  pass  down  the  California  coast 
till  they  reach  or  pass  the  thirty-second  parallel,  in  order  to 
avail  themselves  of  the  trade-winds.  This  practice  virtually 
places  San  Diego  between  San  Francisco  and  the  Orient,  and 
gives  her  an  advantage  over  any  northern  port  of  several  hun- 
dred miles  of  travel. 

In  view  of  the  unquestionable  superiority  of  San  Diego  in 
geographical  situation,  agricultural  and  commercial  resources, 
and  climatic  charms,  and  especially  of  the  tide  of  emigration 
now  tending  thither,  there  is  little  hazard  in  adopting  Mr. 
Colton's  prediction,  with  a  reasonable  extension  of  the  limits 
he  fixed  for  its  verification. 


XIX. 

A  FEW  months  after  my  arrival  in  the  United  States  I 
received  orders  from  the  navy  department  to  proceed 
to  California  as  government  agent,  for  the  protection  of  live- 
oak  and  other  naval  timber  on  the  public  lands  in  that 
Territory ;  and  sailed  in  a  merchant-vessel  for  my  destination 
via  the  Isthmus  of  Panama.  Since  my  return  home,  gold  had 
been  discovered  at  Sutter's  Fort  on  the  Sacramento,  and  the 
tide  of  emigration  had  set  in  towards  the  new  "  Dorado,"  that, 
less  than  one  year  ago,  had  come  under  the  rule  of  the  United 
States. 

Landing  at  Chagres,  I  found  that  ancient  and  dilapidated 
seaport  crowded  with  adventurers  from  New  Orleans  of  all 
races  and  nations,  insanely  eager  to  reach  the  land  of  gold,  in 
which  they  expected  to  reap  an  easy  harvest.  Since  the  time 
of  Morgan  and  his  bold  buccaneers,  the  little  seaport  had  never 
contained  such  a  shaggy,  unkempt,  and  reckless  crowd  of  dare- 
devils as  now  occupied  it.  Every  available  "bungay,"  ba- 
teau, skiff,  and  canoe  had  been  secured  for  the  navigation  of 
the  river  to  Cruces ;  and  the  boatmen  were  rejoicing  in  the 
sudden  advance  in  the  price  of  their  services.  Being  able  — 
unlike  most  of  these  emigrants  —  to  speak  Spanish,  I  soon 
procured  the  aid  of  two  river-men,  and  a  fine  canoe  with  a 
toldo  (awning),  large  enough  for  two  persons  to  sleep  under; 
and,  having  put  our  luggage  into  her,  prepared  chocolate  with  a 
spirit-lamp  of  our  own.  En  passant,  let  me  recommend  choco- 

151 


152  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

late  prepared  in  the  Spanish  fashion,  whenever  it  can  be  had 
at  any  price,  as  the  best  provant  for  all  weary  travellers.  It 
contains  within  the  smallest  compass  more  nourishment  than 
any  other  comestible.  It  restores  the  losses  of  the  body,  cor- 
rects the  lassitude  common  to  wayfarers,  is  agreeable  to  the 
palate,  never  palls,  and  is  easily  digested.  It  is  also  highly 
sedative  in  its  effects. 

Our  boatmen,  with  the  propensity  to  procrastinate  charac- 
teristic of  their  race  and  calling,  left  us  on  some  slight  excuse 
to  return  to  the  pulperias  (grog-shops)  of  Chagres,  having 
received  an  instalment  of  their  promised  compensation.  Hav- 
ing finished  our  frugal  meal,  we  lit  our  pipes,  and  were  con- 
templating the  dark  river  and  the  distant  lights  of  the  town 
(for  it  was  now  nightfall),  when  we  were  hailed  from  a  canoe 
near  our  own.  The  speaker  was  a  fellow-passenger  from  New 
York,  bound  to  California,  with  a  corps  of  butchers  and  meat- 
packers  to  exploit  that  peculiar  industry,  and  well  known  as 
"Baron"  Steinbergen.  The  baron  was  a  jovial,  handsome 
man,  tall,  stout,  with  a  Rubens  head  and  complexion.  He 
spoke  not  a  word  of  Spanish,  and  was  consequently  at  the 
mercy  of  his  boatmen. 

These  fellows  had  fitted  him  to  a  hair's-breadth  with  a  little 
dug-out,  which  might  have  served  him  admirably  for  a  coffin, 
but  which  was  not  roomy  enough  for  a  boat,  and  in  which  he 
dared  not  turn  himself  over  for  fear  of  a  capsize.  Having 
thus  secured  him,  the  rascals  had  decamped,  taking  with  them 
their  paddles,  —  an  unnecessary  precaution ;  for  the  poor  man 
could  have  made  no  use  of  them,  nor  even  bestir  himself  suffi- 
ciently to  get  up  the  anchor  by  which  the  boat  was  moored. 

We  lost  no  time  in  relieving  our  friend  from  his  uncomforta- 
ble position;  hauling  his  craft  alongside  our  own,  and  refresh- 
ing his  inner  man.  About  midnight,  our  boatmen  and  the 
baron's  returned,  our  friend  unwillingly  took  possession  of  his 
fairy  skiff,  and  we  began  our  voyage  up  the  dismal  Chagres 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  153 

River.  After  two  days  and  nights  on  this  sluggish  stream, 
amid  almost  incessant  rain,  the  nights  made  hideous  hy  the 
drinking  and  gambling  of  our  black  crews,  we  at  last  reached 
Gorgona.  Here  the  villains,  landing  our  baggage,  left  us  in 
the  lurch,  having  been  bribed  by  a  party  who  came  along  just 
then  to  carry  them  to  Cruces.  In  this  miserable  village  I  was 
compelled  to  remain  a  whole  week,  while  the  advancing  wave 
of  emigration  swept  by  it  in  every  description  of  floating  craft ; 
several  vessels  having  arrived  at  Chagres  since  our  departure, 
crowded  with  passengers. 

Eager,  excited,  and  with  minds  intent  upon  prospective 
nuggets,  these  poor  fellows  deemed  no  exertion  too  arduous,  no 
expense  too  great,  as  the  price  of  their  speedy  arrival  in  the 
gold  regions.  Most  of  them,  unused  to  hardship,  instead  of 
wealth  found  disease  and  death  (as  I  afterwards  learned)  in 
El  Dorado. 

Every  horse  and  mule  in  Gorgona  had  been  employed  to 
carry  men  or  baggage  to  Panama ;  and,  unable  to  get  away,  I 
amused  myself  in  shooting  some  of  the  game  that  abounded 
in  the  neighborhood.  Many  a  duck  of  brilliant  plumage, 
snowy  ibis,  gorgeous  flamingo,  chattering  parrot,  and  fat 
chichalaka  (tropical  pheasant),  went  down  before  my  gun : 
but  I  paid  dearly  for  my  sport ;  for  I  awoke  one  morning  with 
a  pain  in  the  back,  a  furred  tongue,  and  aching  head,  and 
knew  at  once  that  the  insidious  isthmus  fever  was  upon  me. 
I  instantly  determined  to  start  for  Panama  before  the  disease 
had  wholly  overpowered  me ;  for  to  be  sick  at  Gorgona,  with- 
out friends,  medicines,  or  doctors,  was  certain  death.  So  I  sal- 
lied forth,  took  the  road  on  foot,  and,  by  great  good  luck,  met 
an  anriero  returning,  with  two  pack-mules,  which  I  secured  at 
once. 

We  left  Gorgona  at  mid-day,  taking  the  rough  bridle-path, 
which  was  a  difficult  scramble  for  the  whole  distance.  The 
journey  seemed  to  me  a  real  Inferno,  —  the  dark  road  through 


154  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

a  dense  tropical  forest,  the  snakes,  and  monkeys  gibbering  at 
me  from  the  gnarled  trees  and  lianas.  That  night  I  spent  in 
the  hut  of  a  poor  woman  on  the  edge  of  a  prairie ;  and  the 
next  day,  being  unable  to  sit  upon  my  saddle,  her  two  sons 
carried  me  in  a  rude  litter  to  Panama.  This  poor  woman 
knew  that  I  had  a  large  sum  of  money  in  gold,  which  she 
carefully  guarded  until  all  was  ready,  when  she  put  it  under 
my  head,  and,  telling  her  sons  to  carry  me  gently,  bade  me 
God  speed.  This  is  not  the  only  time,  when,  in  countries 
called  uncivilized,  my  life  has  been  saved  and  my  property 
secured  by  the  influence  of  poor  women :  and  I  have  there- 
fore gratefully  put  this  fact  on  record ;  for,  under  the  like  cir- 
cumstances in  my  own  country,  I  should  have  been  murdered 
without  hesitation  or  remorse.  I  will  add,  that  these  disinter- 
ested poor  women  have  invariably  been  pious  Catholics. 

At  Panama  I  fortunately  encountered  in  the  streets  an  ac- 
quaintance, Don  Diego  Feria ;  and  in  the  fine  airy  mansion  of 
this  good  Samaritan  I  went  through  the  various  stages  of  the 
calentura  of  the  isthmus,  attended  by  the  surgeon  of  a  British 
ship-of-war. 

At  last  "The  California,"  the  first  steamer  of  the  line, 
arrived,  and  we  who  had  tickets  repaired  on  board.  She  was 
loaded  to  the  guards  with  passengers,  and  sailed,  leaving  hun- 
dreds unable  to  get  away.  These  last  groped  their  way  up  the 
coast  in  all  kinds  of  vessels ;  one  party  of  seven  persons  actu- 
ally starting  for  San  Francisco  in  a  half-decked  launch,  and 
arriving  at  their  destination  in  a  hundred  and  thirty  days, 
after  encountering  incredible  hardships  and  dangers. 

We  passed  through  the  Golden  Gate  on  the  28th  February, 
1849 ;  and,  landing,  I  saw  with  astonishment  the  great  change 
that  had  come  over  San  Francisco.  The  little  idle  place  I  had 
left,  with  its  three  or  four  houses  and  some  twenty-five  inhab- 
itants, was  now,  by  the  potent  power  of  gold,  metamorphosed 
into  a  canvas  city  of  several  thousand  people  :  the  beach,  where 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  155 

only  the  year  before  I  had  shot  snipe  and  curlew,  was  thronged 
with  immigrants  from  every  part  of  the  world ;  and  the  har- 
bor, formerly  only  visited  once  a  year  by  a  trader  in  hides  or 
an  occasional  whaler,  was  now  crowded  with  merchantmen  from 
every  seaport  in  Europe,  the  United  States,  and  South  Amer- 
ica. Their  cargoes  had  been  landed  and  covered  with  sails,  or 
were  still  on  board  in  charge  of  the  officers,  the  crews  having 
deserted  and  gone  to  the  mines.  Lots  were  staked  off,  and 
had  already  reached  fabulous  sums ;  and  the  thoroughfares 
were  filled  with  a  rough,  armed,  and  unshorn  crowd  of  fellows, 
who  had  returned  with  nuggets  and  dust  from  the  "  placer." 

As  I  passed  through  a  street  between  some  shanties,  I  was 
hailed  by  an  old  shipmate  of  "  The  Portsmouth  "  sloop-of-war, 
who  had  been  discharged  on  the  coast  before  the  ship  sailed 
for  home.  With  a  beard  that  reached  his  waist,  a  sunburnt 
visage,  and  long  hair  over  his  shoulders,  a  red  shirt,  buckskin 
unmentionables,  and  a  revolver  stuck  in  his  waistband,  the 
trig,  neat  man-o'war's-man  was  not  easily  recognizable.  Jack 
was  now  a  millionnaire  in  his  own  estimation,  and  therefore  on 
terms  of  complete  social  equality  with  his  former  officer.  He 
turned  up  the  corner  of  a  sail  that  covered  a  lot  of  elegant 
furniture,  piled  in  the  street,  the  "venture"  of  some  Eu- 
ropean merchant ;  hauled  out  an  elegant  fauteuil  of  crimson 
velvet,  respectfully  forcing  me  into  it ;  and  then  crossed  over 
to  a  shanty,  whence  he  returned,  bringing  a  whole  basket  of 
champagne.  He  then  beheaded  bottle  after  bottle,  draining 
each  in  succession  ;  in  which  agreeable  employment  he  was 
politely  aided,  upon  invitation,  by  some  thirty  thirsty  bystand- 
ers. Then,  in  the  excess  of  his  delight  at  meeting  me,  which 
he  said  no  words  could  express,  he  successively  demolished 
the  bottles,  the  glasses,  and  the  superb  chair,  by  way  of  vent- 
ing his  superfluous  enthusiasm.  Jack  then  drew  forth  a  long 
buckskin  purse  filled  with  dust,  and  magnanimously  paid  the 


156  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

shot ;  and  we  left  the  scene  of  his  strange  triumph  under  a 
salute  of  three  cheers  from  his  invited  guests. 

This  was  but  one  of  the  rare  sights  of  those  days  in  San 
Francisco.  A  few  shrewd  fellows  who  landed  from  "  The 
California"  without  a  dime,  as  they  confessed  to  me  on  board 
before  leaving,  became  rich  in  twenty-four  hours  by  purchas- 
ing town-lots  or  goods,  and  selling  immediately  to  others  at 
an  advance  before  consummating  the  first  bargain.  Every 
business  negotiation  was  conducted  on  a  cash  basis  of  gold- 
dust,  no  credit  being  allowed  or  demanded ;  and  thus  the 
game  of  speculation  went  on  without  promissory-notes,  books, 
or  banks.  Coined  money  was  at  a  premium  of  fifty  per  cent ; 
and  loans  of  dust,  by  weight,  at  ten  per  cent  per  month  on 
good  security.  To  give  an  adequate  idea  of  the  state  of 
society,  the  wonderful  vicissitudes  of  individuals,  the  tragical 
and  the  amusing  incidents  that  frequently  occurred,  is  a  task 
to  which  my  powers  of  description  are  unequal. 

Gen.  P.  F.  Smith  of  the  United-States  army  came  out  with 
us  to  take  command  of  the  military  department  of  the  Pacific, 
accompanied  by  some  staff-officers,  and  Mrs.  Smith,  who  had  a 
quite  engaging  Irish  maid.  Only  two  days  after  they  had 
landed,  I  called  on  Mrs.  Smith,  and  found  her  in  despair,  her 
maid,  her  chief  dependence  and  only  domestic,  having  left 
her  service. 

I  expressed  my  regret  that  the  promise  of  high  wages  should 
have  induced  the  girl  to  abandon  her  allegiance  to  so  deserv- 
ing a  lady. 

"  But,  my  dear  sir,"  said  Mrs.  Smith,  "  it  is  not  a  question 
of  wages  that  has  separated  us.  Mary  is  engaged  to  be 
married  to  a  gentleman  of  large  fortune ;  and  the  ceremony 
will  be  performed  as  soon  as  permitted  by  the  rules  of  the 
church. 

There  was  nothing  more  to  be  said. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  157 

Like  the  rest,  I  felt  the  necessity  of  being  a  laborer  in  this 
vineyard,  in  which  none  were  idle,  and,  with  Baron  Stein- 
bergen  and  his  "  retainers,"  started  for  San  Rafael,  where  we 
proposed  to  inaugurate  measures  for  supplying  provisions  to 
the  hungry  crowd  suddenly  thrown  upon  these  shores,  instead 
of  following  the  diggers  to  the  mines. 

14 


XX. 


IK  October,  1846,  while  in  command  of  the  military  post  of 
Sonoma,  I  purchased  the  estate  of  San  Geronimo,  consist- 
ing  of   two   square  leagues  (dos   sitios  de   ganada   mayor), 
about  five  miles  from  the  old  mission  of  San  Rafael,  in  what 
is  now  called  Marin  County. 

The  Canada  (hollow,  or  vale)  of  San  Geronimo  is  one  of 
the  loveliest  valleys  in  California,  shut  in  by  lofty  hills,  the 
sides  of  which  are  covered  with  red-wood  forests,  and  pines  of 
several  kinds,  and  interspersed  with  many  flowering  trees  and 
shrubs  peculiar  to  the  country.  Through  it  flows  a  copious 
stream,  fed  by  the  mountain-brooks  ;  and  the  soil  in  the  bottom- 
lands is  so  prolific,  that  a  hundred  bushels  of  wheat  to  the 
acre  can  be  raised  with  the  rudest  cultivation,  and  other  crops 
in  corresponding  abundance. 

While  hunting  elk  in  that  neighborhood,  I  had  come  upon 
this  beautiful  valley,  and  determined  to  possess  it,  if  possible  ; 
and  in  due  time  I  acquired  the  property,  and  stocked  it  with 
horned  cattle  and  mares  in  the  usual  fashion  of  making  a 
settlement  in  California. 

In  my  absence  the  cattle  had  increased  to  about  five  hun- 
dred head  of  animals  of  all  kinds,  which  roamed  at  will  in  a 
state  of  nature  over  my  domain,  the  mayor-domo  engaged 
to  take  charge  of  them  having  left  the  place,  and  gone  off  to 
the  bonanza  (corruption  of  abundancia),  a  few  months  before 
my  arrival. 

168 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  159 

I  laid  in  a  stock  of  tools,  farming-utensils,  &c.,  and  arrived 
at  the  mission  of  San  Rafael,  where  I  was  hospitably  received 
by  my  old  friend  —  mentioned  in  the  "  Tour  of  Duty  "  — 
Don  Timoteo  Murphy.  Here  we  sojourned  for  several  weeks ; 
but,  finding  it  impossible  to  engage  in  any  regular  pursuit  in 
consequence  of  the  unsettled  state  of  the  country,  I  concluded 
to  follow  the  current  setting  towards  the  "  placer."  A  party 
was  formed  of  my  neighbors  the  rancheros,  who,  with  their 
Indian  servants  and  vaqueros,  made  a  company  of  some  thirty 
persons.  We  had  a  caballada  (herd  of  horses)  of  a  hundred 
head,  and  drove  with  us  over  two  hundred  head  of  beef  cattle, 
collected  from  the  herds  that  ranged  over  our  lands,  whch  we 
intended  to  sell  in  the  mining  country. 

The  cattle,  being  perfectly  wild,  were  always  driven  on  the 
full  run,  so  that  a  day's  drive  was  quite  wearisome  ;  the  cattle 
seizing  every  opportunity  to  escape,  bolting  suddenly  from  the 
column  in  order  to  return  to  their  acarencias  (grazing- 
grounds).  At  the  end  of  each  day's  march,  or  run,  we  were 
all  too  happy  to  rest,  to  wash  if  possible,  and  to  cook  and 
eat  our  suppers  of  beef,  often  without  bread  or  salt;  such- 
was  the  scarcity  of  articles  usually  considered  necessaries,  but 
which  we  should  have  ranked  among  luxuries.  Before  dawn  we 
were  astir,  after  passing  the  night  on  the  hard  ground,  with 
nothing  between  us  and  it  save  our  saddle-leathers,  the  saddle- 
trees being  our  pillows,  and  serapes  (blankets)  our  only  cover- 
ing :  then,  after  a  hurried  breakfast  of  beef,  we  collected 
the  scattered  herd,  and  began  another  day's  hot  and  dusty 
ride. 

Good  pasture-fed  California  beef  broiled  on  the  coals  of  a 
wood-fire,  with  plenty  of  spring-water,  was  our  diet ;  and 
very  good  fare  it  was.  My  health  was  never  better,  my  physi- 
cal powers  never  greater,  than  when  I  was  a  ranchero  in  that 
glorious  country.  Constant  exercise,  and  sleeping  in  the  open 
air,  —  no  hardship  in  that  pure,  dry  atmosphere,  —  hardened 


160  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

my  body,  invigorated  my  constitution,  and  induced  an  eleva- 
tion of  spirits,  and  confidence  in  my  ability  to  endure  pri- 
vation, that  I  have  never*  felt  before  or  since.  I  would 
recommend  such  a  course  of  training  to  an  invalid  as  better 
than  all  the  nostrums  of  the  faculty. 

Arriving  at  the  dry  diggings,  our  party  separated ;  and  for 
two  months  we  "prospected"  in  the  vicinity,  changing  our 
ground  as  we  saw  a  chance  to  dig,  trade  cattle,  swap  horses,  or 
to  barter  our  little  stock  of  goods  for  "  dust."  I  also  made  a 
trip  in  a  dug-out  to  San  Francisco  on  account  of  partners  and 
self,  and  returned  in  a  larger  boat  to  our  camp  on  Feather 
River,  laden  with  dry-goods,  groceries,  crockery,  and  hardware. 
We  sold  all  oft7  at  enormous  prices,  —  butcher-knives  fetching 
twenty  dollars  apiece,  common  iron  spoons  five  dollars,  and 
ordinary  wash-bowls  and  meaner  vessels  fifteen  dollars.  La- 
bor was  so  high  in  the  diggings,  that  it  was  difficult  to  com- 
pute its  value.  Some  Mexicans,  encamped  near  us,  paid  their 
camp-keeper  a  hundred  dollars  per  day  for  his  services  and 
for  cooking ;  and,  even  at  that  price,  they  were  most  unwillingly 
.rendered.  These  fellows  averaged  much  more  than  that  sum 
daily  in  digging  and  picking  up  nuggets,  or  occasionally  wash- 
ing the  dirt  of  the  gulches. 

I  sold  all  the  flour  I  brought  up,  which  came  from  Chili,  in 
bags  of  four  arrobas  (twenty-five  pounds  to  the  arroba),  at 
a  hundred  dollars  the  sack.  Several  dozens  of  common 
calico  shirts,  bought  for  the  use  of  our  company,  were  snapped 
at  twenty  dollars  each,  unwashed,  after  my  partners  had  worn 
them  for  a  week  ;  and  a  digger  taking  a  fancy  to  my  Mexican 
spurs,  worth  about  three  dollars,  did  not  think  them  dear  at 
twenty-five.  Gold  was  then  found  everywhere, — on  the  sur- 
face, in  the  clefts  and  hollows  of  rocks,  in  the  brooks,  and  upon 
and  beneath  the  soil. 

All  nations  were  represented  in  the  Sacramento  dry  dig- 
gings; but  the  luckiest  miners  were  always  the  Mexicans 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE,  161 

and  South- Americans.  They  possesed  all  the  qualities  which 
insure  success,  —  skill  in  prospecting,  quick  eyes  for  gold- 
bearing  formations,  rapidity  in  extracting  or  washing  the 
auriferous  earth,  and  great  industry  and  patience,  —  although 
lazy,  and  indeed  useless  in  other  employments.  Honesty  per- 
vaded the  little  community ;  for  the  Botany-bay  men  had  not 
yet  arrived  in  California. 

After  a  stay  of  several  weeks,  we  returned  to  our  homes, 
bearing  with  us  the  fruits  of  our  industry ;  and  I  set  to  work 
at  San  Geronimo  with  about  a  score  of  Indians ;  and  having 
scratched  up  with  the  rude  ploughs  of  the  country  about 
fifteen  acres  of  ground,  and  enclosed  it  with  a  brush  fence,  I 
set  out  for  San  Francisco  to  procure  seed  for  planting. 

Many  vessels  had  arrived  since  my  last  visit ;  and  the  cry 
was,  "  Still  they  come."  Their  crews  would  scarcely  wait  long 
enough  to  furl  sails  after  their  arrival,  so  impatient  were  they 
to  leave  for  the  diggings.  Most  of  these  ships  had  brought 
over  emigrants  from  Europe,  in  a  sorry  plight  after  their  long 
voyage.  Among  them  were  young  and  energetic  men,  some 
hopeful,  others  sad  and  despairing ;  old  men  and  women,  who 
had  followed  those  they  loved  to  this  distant  land,  only  to  lay 
•their  bones  in  it ;  mothers,  accompanying  their  children  to  an 
unknown  destiny ;  and  all  expecting  to  reap  in  California  the 
harvest  denied  to  them  at  home.  Let  Europeans  say  what 
they  please  of  our  country :  to  a  great  part  of  their  popu- 
lation it  is  a  paradise.  In  Europe  all  cannot  have  bread 
and  work.  Their  governments  and  social  constitutions  leave 
them  to  suffer  in  silence ;  and  their  more  fortunate  fellows 
give  them  nothing  but  advice,  —  to  be  resigned.  They  are 
like  pegs  driven  into  the  ground,  and  must  be  content  to 
occupy  the  same  places  in  the  social  organization  from  birth 
till  death.  Of  course  all  do  not  find  America  the  land  of 
promise  they  expected ;  but  they  may  have  land  and  liberty, 
and  that  is  all  the  Almighty  gave  Adam  and  Eve.  It  is 
H* 


162  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

then,  for  them,  a  paradise.  The  emigrant  comes  to  America, 
and  is  received  with  an  affectation  of  generosity :  but  it  can- 
not be  denied,  that,  in  giving  this  welcome,  we  obey  our  own 
interest  quite  as  much  as  the  dictates  of  charity;  and  our 
reception  of  him  is  not  unmixed  with  ostentation. 

After  all,  we  are  parvenus ;  good,  without  being  tender  or 
polished.  We  distribute  to  the  emigrant  tools  and  seeds  ;  ap- 
portion to  him,  with  a  significant  gesture,  a  portion  of  the 
soil ;  and  go  about  our  affairs,  saying  to  him  in  effect,  "  Here 
you  are;  fix  yourself;  I  am  busy."  Thus  those  who  receive 
this  curt  hospitality  are  not  oppressed  with  a  load  of  obliga- 
tion :  they  work,  take  root,  and  are  soon  occupied  in  conquer- 
ing a  position  for  themselves,  and  seeking  rights  denied  them 
elsewhere.  They  are  not  mendicants  gratefully  obliged,  but 
poor  men  who  become  citizens. 

Among  the  ships  in  the  harbor,  I  found  an  old  friend  of 
other  days  in  command  of  a  brig  from  Honolulu,  sitting  in 
solitary  state  in  his  cabin,  his  crew  having  left  him.  From 
him  I  obtained  a  few  barrels  of  potatoes  which  he  had  among 
his  stores,  — poor  and  small,  it  is  true,  but  the  only  ones  to  be 
had ;  and,  with  this  prize  seed,  I  returned  to  San  Geronimo, 
where  I  planted  the  precious  seed  in  the  enclosure. 

I  then  left  the  place  in  charge  of  my  Indian  servants, 
and  addressed  myself  to  the  duties  of  my  office  as  timber- 
inspector. 

In  the  intervals  of  these  duties  I  piloted  several  vessels  up 
the  Sacramento  River,  among  which  was  a  bark  from  Peru, 
with  a  company  of  miners  on  board,  organized  at  an  immense 
expense,  and  with  whom  I  remained  for  several  weeks. 

While  these  Peruvians  were  working  in  the  diggings,  I 
observed  that  they  consumed  much  less  provisions  than  other 
miners,  while  doing  the  same  amount  of  work,  or  even  more  ; 
and  that  they  also  seemed  better  able  to  endure  exposure  to 
the  heat  of  the  sun  and  the  dews  of  night.  Asking  their 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  163 

director,  a  German,  the  reason  of  this,  I  was  told  that  it  was 
owing  to  the  use  of  "  coca,"  an  herb  indigenous  to  Peru. 
They  had  brought  the  coca  with  them,  —  dried,  olive-shaped 
leaves,  of  a  dark-green  color,  and  packed  in  sacks  of  matting 
of  about  an  arroba  (twenty-five  pounds)  each.  Each  miner 
had  a  small  leather  pouch  for  coca,  and  a  small  gourd  filled 
with  pulverized  lime.  Three  or  four  times  daily  they  sus- 
pended their  labors  to  masticate  coca  in  the  following  manner:  — 

First  they  selected  the  leaves,  and  carefully  removed  the 
stalks,  which  they  threw  away.  They  then  rolled  the  leaves 
into  a  small  ball,  or  quid,  called  an  acullico,  which  they  placed 
in  the  mouth ;  and  thrusting  a  little  stick  into  the  gourd  of 
lime,  its  end  being  moistened,  they  drew  it  out,  and  punched 
the  acullico  repeatedly  with  it.  The  lime  soon  mixed  with 
the  coca  in  the  process  of  mastication,  and  caused  an  abundant 
flow  of  saliva,  which  was  partly  expectorated,  and  partly  swal- 
lowed. The  strength  of  the  quid  having  been  exhausted,  it 
was  thrown  away,  and  a  fresh  one  substituted.  The  coca  is 
prepared  and  used  like  the  betel-nut  of  the  Malays ;  but,  unlike 
it,  it  does  not  stain  the  teeth  black.  I  found,  upon  trial,  that 
coca  has  a  pleasant,  aromatic  flavor  something  like  tea-leaves ; 
but  my  lips  and  gums  were  somewhat  cauterized  by  the 
lime.  The  average  consumption  by  these  miners  was  said  to 
be  from  one  to  one  ounce  and  a  half  daily. 

When  excessively  used,  coca  is  said  to  cause  a  bad  breath, 
to  color  the  gums,  and  to  make  the  lips  pallid.  Sugar  is  some- 
times used  with  the  acullico.  The  inveterate  coquero  (coca- 
eater)  finds  it  difficult  to  abandon  the  habit  when  once  acquired, 
and  returns  to  it  frequently  after  successive  discontinuances 
like  the  confirmed  opium-eater.  Thus  parties  of  coqueros 
often  meet  clandestinely  in  Peru  to  enjoy  their  peculiar  dissi- 
pation. Coca  is  raised  and  cured  in  the  mountainous  districts  of 
Peru  on  the  flanks  of  the  Cordillera,  whence  it  is  sent  to  other 
parts  of  the  country.  It  is  prophylactic,  and  slightly  aperient ; 


164  KEEL  AND  SADDLE, 

and  an  infusion  of  its  leaves  makes  an  agreeable  and  strength- 
ening drink.  The  price  in  Lima  is  about  an  ounce  (sixteen 
dollars)  the  arroba. 

The  moderate  coquero  goes  through  much  toil  with  apparent 
ease,  and,  as  I  have  already  said,  consumes  much  less  food 
than  those  who  do  not  use  coca.  I  have  been  told  wonderful 
things  by  military  officers  serving  in  Peru,  —  of  long  marches 
made  by  the  soldiers  of  that  country  using  coca  on  quarter 
rations.  No  doubt  this  plant,  so  little  known  to  other  nations, 
is  one  of  Nature's  inestimable  blessings ;  for,  like  others  of  her 
gifts,  it  is  not  detrimental  except  when  abused.  It  supports 
the  bodily  strength,  prevents  muscular  waste,  and  is  said  to 
make  one  gay  in  spirits  and  long-winded. 

My  attention  was  drawn  to  one  of  the  miners  mentioned 
above,  named  Pedro  Beltran.  I  knew  this  man  to  labor  hard 
at  "panning"  dirt  for  a  whole  week  on  one  scanty  meal 
of  flour-cakes  daily ;  and  he  slept  only  two  or  three  hours  at 
night.  He  need  not  have  worked  so  hard ;  but  he  told  me 
that  he  came  to  the  bonanza  to  get  money,  and  in  the  short- 
est possible  time.  He  made,  that  week,  a  little  over  eleven 
hundred  dollars,  half  of  which  went  to  the  company  by  the 
terms  of  his  contract.  The  week  after,  he  accompanied  the 
director  and  myself  on  foot  on  a  prospecting  tour  lasting  three 
days,  easily  keeping  up  with  our  horses,  although  we  travelled 
at  least  thirty  miles  a  day.  He  returned,  seemingly  not  at 
all  fatigued  by  his  long  march,  and  resumed  his  labors. 

I  left  him  in  the  diggings  working  hard  as  ever  "on  his 
own  hook ; "  for  this  company,  like  all  the  rest,  soon  broke  up, 
and  Pedro  went  vigorously  to  washing  gold-earth,  stopping 
only  for  his  chaccar  (quid,  or  chew).  He  was  sixty  years  old, 
and  told  me  he  had  never  been  ill  in  his  life.  He  was  married, 
and  his  wife  had  reared  a  family  of  eight  sons  and  five  daugh- 
ters. 


XXI. 

MY  crops  turned  out  beyond  my  most  sanguine  expecta- 
tions ;  and  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  reaping  a  splendid 
harvest,  which  was  disposed  of  at  high  prices.  Agriculture, 
even  the  grazing  interest,  at  that  time  the  leading  one  of  Cali- 
fornia, had  been  entirely  lost  sight  of,  the  whole  population 
having  been  busily  engaged  in  securing  the  dazzling  dust  and 
nuggets  ;  and  food  of  all  kinds  was  held  at  enormous  prices. 

Every  article  of  breadstuff's  was  brought  from  abroad,  while 
the  emigration  of  1849  probably  amounted  to  a  hundred 
thousand  persons.  The  small  seed-potatoes,  not  larger  than  a 
walnut,  which  I  planted,  produced  at  least  twenty-fold ;  and  the 
improvement  in  quality  over  the  seed  was  really  wonderful. 
The  virgin  soil,  of  pure  vegetable  humus,  so  nourished  and 
stimulated  their  growth,  that  I  had  several  hundred  bushels 
of  potatoes  in  the  crop,  each  of  which  weighed  ten  pounds 
avoirdupois,  or  over ;  and  the  average  of  the  rest  would  not 
fall  below  a  pound.  The  sale  of  this  crop  at  one  real 
(twelve  and  a  half  cents)  per  pound,  which  was  the  market 
price,  fully  repaid  the  expense  and  trouble  of  planting. 

San  Francisco  had  become  a  city  of  some  forty  thousand 
people,  and  was  the  business  centre  of  the  rising  State.  With 
the  increase  of  population,  the  irregular  placer-mining  became 
obsolete,  or  practised  by  those  only  for  whom  its  adventurous 
character  had  a  peculiar  charm  ;  while  rude  machinery,  dams, 

165 


166  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

conduits,  canals,  and  sluice-ways,  began  to  be  constructed  in 
the  mining  regions. 

Certain  branches  of  industry,  indispensable  to  the  new  state 
of  things  and  to  the  development  of  the  country,  were  ex- 
ploited ;  and  saw-mills,  lime  and  brick  kilns,  and  stone-quar- 
ries, were  established  at  favorable  points ;  while  witb  the 
acquisition  of  wealth  came  the  desire  of  enjoyment  and  com- 
fort :  fine  houses  were  built,  and  mechanics  of  all  kinds  found 
employment  at  high  wages.  The  bonanza,  no  longer  absorbed 
all  the  laborers,  many  of  whom,  indeed,  from  choice,  abandoned 
the  search  for  gold,  tired  of  the  exposures,  hardships,  and  self- 
denial  which  attended  it. 

The  proverbial  adaptation  of  the  Yankee  to  every  condition 
of  life  was  illustrated  on  every  side  ;  but  foreigners  were  not 
behind  him  in  bettering  their  fortunes  in  the  new  cities 
springing  up  all  over  the  country.  Meanwhile,  keeping  pace 
with  the  emigration  from  beyond  the  seas,  a  hardy  though 
rude  population  flocked  into  California  from  our  Western 
States,  and,  spreading  themselves  over  the  country  in  the 
rural  districts,  settled  down  on  "  squatted "  or  purchased 
farms,  and  set  manfully  to  work  to  plough  and  sow. 

The  industrious  and  orderly,  however,  did  not  constitute  the 
only  addition  to  the  population  ;  for,  following  the  law  of  civili- 
zation, in  their  train  came  those  who  seem  born  only  to  prey 
upon  their  fellows  :  and  as  "  where  the  carcass  is,  there  will 
the  eagles  be  gathered,"  New  York  sent  out  its  "roughs," 
and  Australia  its  "  ticket-of-leave  men ; "  and  desperadoes  of 
all  kinds,  finding  a  congenial  field  for  their  operations,  effected 
a  regular  organization,  with  ramifications  all  over  the  State.  A 
little  later  the  people  were  aroused  from  their  apathetic  toler- 
ance of  these  villains,  who  corrupted  the  very  source  and  foun- 
tains of  justice  ;  and  that  sharp  cure,  the  vigilance  committees, 
took  them  in  charge  with  excellent  results.  The  original  sim- 
plicity of  California,  as  it  was  when  we  took  military  posses- 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  167 

sion,  its  patriarchal  institutions  and  benevolent  customs,  as  I 
have  endeavored  to  portray  them  in  the  "  Tour  of  Duty,"  had 
all  vanished  forever. 

At  the  end  of  the  rainy  season,  and  the  advent  of  the  de- 
lightful California  spring,  my  little  party  of  neighbors  again 
visited  the  mining  regions,  finding  every  thing  changed  in  the 
operations,  which  were  now  carried  on  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  water-courses.  What  I  saw  was  hardly  calculated  to  give 
one  an  elevated  idea  of  human  nature.  These  scenes  were  at 
once  curious  and  sad  to  a  thoughtful  student  of  human  nature. 
I  had  been  among  tribes  of  barbarians,  and  on  the  islands  of 
the  Pacific  peopled  with  naked  savages  ;  but  here  I  found  that 
man  is  more  of  a  savage  when  he  has  once  lived  in  a  civilized 
condition,  and  retrogresses,  than  when  born  in  barbarism.  The 
denizens  of  the  mining  region  were  indeed  clothed,  poorly 
enough  to  be  sure,  but  with  some  regard  to  decency ;  but, 
morally,  they  were  utterly  naked.  The  robes  of  hypocrisy 
which  clothe  humanity  elsewhere  were  thrown  aside,  and  nei- 
ther virtue  nor  modesty  had  any  respect.  "  These  seekers  after 
gold,"  thought  I,  "  are  in  a  hurry :  they  have  no  time  to  lose,  and, 
casting  off  all  restraint,  return  to  natural  brutality.  California 
is  to  them  a  sort  of  chrysalis,  from  which  they  expect  to  emerge 
furnished  with  new  and  gorgeous  wings.  It  is  a  neutral  ground ; 
and  they  arrive  here  from  an  obscure  past,  in  order  to  wrest  from 
it  the  elements  of  a  purifying  future." 

"  Auri  sacra  fames,"  I  said,  passing  near  a  group  earnestly 
engaged  with  tin  pan  and  "  long  torn  "  washing  the  auriferous 
dirt.  A  young  man  looked  up  from  his  pan  knowingly,  but 
without  quitting  his  occupation.  "  Sir,"  said  he,  with  a  touch 
of  irony  in  his  tone,  "  you  will  gain  little  here  by  selling  quo- 
tations. Had  it  been  possible  to  live  by  such  a  trade,  I  should 
not  now  be  here  ;  for  I  have  studied  the  '  humanities,'  carried 
off  prizes,  and  learned  by  rote  all  that  has  been  said  against 
money-getting.  Had  I  time,  I  would  answer  you  with  Seneca} 


168  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

but  we  will  adjourn  that  pleasure  until  we  meet  in  New  York. 
In  reply  to  your  three  words  of  Virgil,  I  will  answer  you 
with  Ovid,  '  Effodiuntur  opes,  irritamenta  malorum : '  I  will 
then  lie  back  in  my  chair,  and  cry  with  Catullus,  '  Me  mea 
paupertas  ; '  with  Horace,  '  Aurea  mediocritas  ; '  and  with 
Juvenal,  '  Obscena  pecunia.'  Now,  my  dear  sir,  I  am  too 
poor  to  console  myself  with  such  trifles.  'Non  in  pane  solo 
vivit  homo,'  says  the  Scripture  in  our  vulgate.  And  it  is 
true :  dry  bread  is  insipid.  The  meagre  fortune  I  possessed 
did  not  permit  me  to  add  to  my  daily  crust  the  good  wines  and 
succulent  meats  I  coveted,  as  many  horses  as  I  liked  to  use, 
and  the  sum  of  love  necessary  to  my  existence :  so  I  came 
here  courageously  to  increase  my  resources.  Should  Fortune 
not  smile  upon  me,  I  will  step  into  some  druggist's  shop,  and 
choose  among  the  infernal  distillations  of  death  a  remedy  for 
all  ills." 

"  My  dear  sir,"  said  I,  "  my  little  remark,  or  quotation,  was 
made  without  allusion  to  yourself  or  any  individual ;  and  I  am 
sorry  to  have  offended  you." 

"  Oh  !  no  offence,  sir,  in  the  least,"  he  returned  :  "  your  ex- 
clamation produced  a  slight  irritation ;  that  is  all." 

A  shade  of  melancholy  here  passed  over  the  young  man's 
face,  replacing  the  feverish  gayety  with  which  he  had  just 
spoken. 

"  Here,"  said  he,  offering  me  a  small  nugget :  "  put  that  on 
your  vest-chain.  When  you  look  at  it,  you  will  call  to  mind  a 
poor  devil  you  met  in  the  placer,  who  knew  Latin,  and  who 
was  unhappy.  After  all,"  said  the  young  man  cheerfully, 
"  Juvenal  is  the  only  one  who  has  the  right  expression,  — 
'  Obscena  pecunia.' " 

Being  interested  in  the  youth,  and  inclined  to  serve  him,  I 
proposed  to  him,  on  leaving  the  placer,  that  he  should  accom- 
pany me. 

"  Thanks,"  said  he.     "  But  what  would  you  do  with  me  ? 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  169 

You  cannot  give  me  twenty  thousand  a  year,  can  you?  I 
will  not  accept  a  humble  position  :  and  I  have  only  one  card 
left  to  play ;  that  is  myself.  I  will  wait  for  the  smiles  of  For- 
tune. For  those  I  brave  fevers,  Indian  arrows,  Yankee  bowie- 
knives,  cholera,  and  wild  beasts.  Apparently  you  have  enough 
and  to  spare ;  and  you  had  better  leave  this.  You  excite  jeal- 
ousy and  anger  among  us ;  you  are  independent  and  happy ; 
your  presence  here  is  a  reflection  upon  us  all ;  and  it  will  be  an 
act  of  charity  on  your  part  to  disappear.  Curiosity  is  abuse 
for  the  prisoners  one  visits  in  a  jail ;  and  we  are  the  convicts, 
sent  here  by  an  unknown  code.  We  undergo  our  punishment 
in  this  limbo,  from  which  few  escape  alive.  Depart,  then  !  Is 
it  such  a  fine  spectacle  to  see  men  dispute  each  other's  right  to 
a  few  square  yards  of  soil  impregnated  with  yellow  dust  ?  to 
see  them  murder  each  other  for  a  look  ?  to  refuse  the  water 
that  cleanses,  the  adieu  which  consoles,  the  tomb  even,  which, 
perchance,  is  denied  them  after  death  ?  Here  the  corpses  are 
left  to  rot  on  the  surface.  Digging  is  to  take  out  gold;  but  to 
dig  a  grave  would  seem  sacrilege.  We  dig,  we  play,  we  die. 
The  expense  of  supporting  life  follows  the  same  progression  as 
other  expenses.  A  poor  laborer  may  earn  here  twenty  dollars 
a  day ;  and  the  pulsations  of  our  arteries  are  multiplied  in 
unison.  Time  passes  not  for  us  as  for  you.  You  are  more 
than  a  stranger  to  us  :  in  fact,  you  are  a  monster. 

"  Go,  then,  sir  !  Were  you  a  doctor,  now,  you  might  serve  us ; 
for  any  chance  barber  coming  this  way  visits  the  sick  at  an 
ounce  of  gold  a  visit.  Even  then  he  wearies  out  Nature 
by  his  treatment.  Ah,  sir  !  you  have,  somewhere,  a  patri- 
mony, a  family :  go  and  find  them  again.  I  will  not  advise 
you  to  keep  your  fortune  ;  for,  should  I  find  one,  I  shall  prob- 
ably spend  it  all  in  a  few  years.  I  merely  say  that  you  had 
better  return  to  civilized  lands  ;  to  a  happy  country,  in  which 
men  are  still  men ;  where  the  heart  may  complain  of  suffering, 
and  where  all  you  have  to  combat  is  civilized  egotism. 

15 


170  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

Adieu!"  said  my  philosopher  with  a  smile,  "^Eternumque 
vale." 

Returning  to  our  ranches  with  a  fair  share  of  profits  in  the 
autumn,  we  began  the  usual  routine  of  work,  holding  a  heiva- 
dura  (branding  cattle)  every  week  in  succession  on  the 
different  ranches  in  accordance  with  the  custom,  and  with  the 
not  as  yet  obsolete  laws  of  the  mesta.  Crops  of  vegetables 
were  not  as  remunerative  as  the  year  before,  so  many  culti- 
vators having  entered  the  field,  tempted  by  the  high  prices ; 
and  the  business  was  overdone. 

I  built  a  new  house  on  my  place,  and  projected  other  im- 
provements ;  and  my  neighbors,  stimulated  at  last  to  enterprise 
in  that  direction,  began  to  bestir  themselves.  But  we  were 
all  annoyed  by  the  incursions  of  the  "  Gentiles,"  —  as  the  wild 
Indians  are  called  in  contradistinction  to  the  "  Christians,"  or 
tame  Indians,  —  who  came  stealthily  upon  our  lands  to  steal 
horses.  The  rogues  always  selected  these  animals,  as  they 
could  run  them  in  a  single  night  beyond  all  possible  successful 
pursuit. 

At  last,  in  self-defence,  we  organized  an  expedition  to  sup- 
press these  frays,  and  at  the  same  time  to  indemnify  ourselves, 
by  securing  some  of  these  "  Gentiles,"  intending  to  keep  them 
as  hostages,  and  to  use  them,  meanwhile,  as  laborers.  A  coun- 
cil of  rancheros  was  accordingly  summoned  at  the  "  Baulinas," 
—  a  rancho  on  the  sea-coast  belonging  to  Don  Juan  Briones,  — 
at  which  I  assisted  with  several  others ;  and  a  plan  of  operation 
was  formed. 


XXII. 


rancheros,  each  with  five  to  ten  Indian  vaqueros, 
JLJ  assembled  at  the  rendezvous  at  the  appointed  time  with 
a  caballada  of  some  fifty  excellent  horses.  The  tame  or  Chris- 
tian Indians  enter  into  the  spirit  of  these  razzias  with  great 
zest,  and  take  keen  delight  in  entrapping  their  wild  relatives. 
At  the  try  sting-place  Don  Jose  Annenteros  was  unanimously 
chosen  leader  of  our  party,  whom  we  were  to  ohey  until  the 
termination  of  the  expedition.  He  was  the  major-domo  of 
the  ranchero  Kafael  Garcia,  and  noted  as  the  best  rider,  the  most 
skilful  riatero  (thrower  of  the  lasso),  and  the  most  accom- 
plished in  all  the  sports  of  the  campo :  he  had  also  the  advan- 
tage of  experience  in  similar  expeditions.  At  the  rendezvous 
we  began  preparations  for  the  expedition  by  a  grand  feast  on 
the  supplies  brought  or  sent  there  by  the  provident  wives  of 
the  raucheros,  consuming  all  our  stores  in  one  night ;  and  then, 
like  Herman  Cortes  after  he  had  burnt  his  ships,  we  were  ready 
to  push  into  the  wild  regions  before  us,  unencumbered  with 
whiskey  or  other  groceries,  and  depending  solely  on  the  rifle 
or  the  riata,  for  our  subsistence.  We  carried  with  us  a  few 
trinkets  for  trading. 

At  daylight  we  rose  from  the  ground,  and,  taking  a  northerly 
route,  set  forth  into  the  wilderness  at  full  gallop,  the  caballada 
in  advance,  with  all  the  vaqueros.  headed  by  Armenteros.  En- 
camping in  the  woods  north  of  Bodega  the  first  night,  we  re- 
sumed the  march  at  early  dawn,  and  rode  all  day  through  a 

171 


172  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

beautiful  and  fertile  country,  more  like  a  gentleman's  park 
than  a  primeval  forest.  The  trees  were  superb,  the  Palo  Colo- 
rado (red  wood),  a  kind  of  cedar;  Wellingtonia  ffiyantea, 
coeval  possibly  with  the  Deluge ;  the  pinabete  (a  pine  of  great 
size,  hard  and  tough  as  oak) ;  the  madron,  an  orange-colored 
wood,  laurels,  and  bays,  mixed  with  live-oak,  alamos,  and  ala- 
mitos  (poplars)  ;  while  the  red  berries  of  the  mansanito,  gleam- 
ing in  the  undergrowth,  formed  a  picture  of  arboreal  splendor 
nowhere  else  to  be  seen. 

Now  we  ascended  the  spur  of  some  mountain-range  command- 
ing a  view  of  the  sea  on  our  left ;  then  plunged  into  a  dense 
forest;  and  anon  crossed  a  broad  and  smiling  savanna,  enam- 
elled with  beautiful  flowers  of  every  hue  and  delightful  per- 
fume, romero  (rosemary)  being  in  great  abundance.  There 
shone  the  lily  of  the  valley,  poppies,  and  tulips  of  every  tint,  the 
aromatic  anise-seed,  the  butterfly-flower,  which  is  indigenous, 
dancing  on  its  long  stem,  an  almost  perfect  counterpart  of  the 
insect  from  which  it  takes  its  name ;  here  the  humble  canchala- 
gua,  a  febrifuge,  and  the  yerba  del  tos,  a  specific  for  pulmon- 
ary and  catarrh  al  complaints. 

We  killed  a  deer  in  the  afternoon ;  and,  while  selecting  a 
place  for  a  bivouac,  Armenteros  lassoed  a  bear,  on  the  savory 
paws  of  which,  a  bonne  bouche  with  hunters,  we  supped 
heartily. 

We  were  now  in  the  Gentile  country :  so  the  next  morning 
a  place  of  security  for  our  caballada,  abounding  in  grass  and 
water,  was  selected  on  a  point  of  land  projecting  into  the  sea ; 
and  old  Juan  Briones,  with  two  vaqueros,  left  to  guard  the 
neck  which  connected  it  with  the  mainland.  The  rest  of  our 
party  continued  their  route. 

Don  Pepe,  as  Senor  Armenteros  was  called,  was  now  in  his 
element,  and  recounted  many  anecdotes  of  former  raids.  He 
*ed  our  small  but  well-armed  and  mounted  party  in  an  easterly 
direction  until  about  noon,  when  we  halted  in  a  dense  wood ; 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  173 

and  he  set  out  with  one  man,  my  Antonio,  whom  he  selected 
for  his  intelligence  and  courage,  to  seek  an  Indian  village  or 
rancheria.  Meanwhile  we  picketed  our  horses,  and  beguiled 
the  time  with  smoking  and  monte  (Spanish  game  of  cards). 

At  daylight  Don  Pepe  and  Antonio  returned  with  an  ally 
in  the  person  of  a  naked  Indian,  with  shaggy,  unkempt  hair, 
and  a  horrible  squint.  This  worthy  bore  a  wooden  bow  inge- 
niously strengthened  on  the  back  with  deer-sinews;  and  under 
his  arm,  as  the  Devil  in  the  song  is  said  to  have  carried  his  tail, 
he  carried  a  quiver  made  of  the  skin  of  a  cub  bear,  filled  with 
arrows  tipped  with  obsidian,  or  volcanic  glass,  which  abounds 
here. 

Don  Pepe  introduced  his  new  ally  as  an  old  acquaint- 
ance ;  and  we  returned  with  him  to  his  rancheria,  he  being, 
according  to  our  chief,  muy  bravo,  and  crafty  as  brave.  We 
found  the  rancheria  in  a  valley  near  the  sea,  which  was  not 
visible  from  our  bivouac,  but  which  we  could  distinctly  smell, 
in  a  most  ancient  and  fish-like  odor.  Not  wishing  to  share 
the  lodges  of  this  untutored  and  unsavory  race,  we  remained 
in  a  grove  on  the  outskirts  of  the  village ;  the  Indians  con- 
tributing to  our  frugal  evening  meal  some  excellent  salmon, 
and  melons  from  their  milpa  (garden). 

Next  morning  we  collected  a  few  beads  and  light  goods, 
and  invited  the  men  to  visit  our  camp :  ladies  are  not  allowed 
that  privilege  among  the  Gentiles. 

The  eyes  of  the  strabismic  unfortunate  grew  more  fixed 
to  the  tip  of  his  nose  than  ever  at  sight  of  our  wonder- 
ful treasures ;  and  I  feared  they  would  "  shoot  madly  from 
their  spheres,"  so  distended  were  they  in  admiration  of  the 
many-colored  beads,  great  needles,  awls,  mirrors,  and  knives 
displayed  in  our  camp.  Encouraged  by  the  cupidity  of  our 
visitors,  our  spokesman  began  cautiously  to  approach  the  sub- 
ject of  our  mission  into  their  country  ;  but  he  found  the  wary 
Gentiles  better  diplomatists  than  he  imagined. 
15* 


174  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

For  two  mortal  hours  the  keen  encounter  of  wits  endured. 
Don  Pepe  endeavored  to  induce  the  Indians  to  send  men 
from  their  rancheria  to  accompany  us  home,  promising  them 
good  cheer  in  plenty  and  a  generous  reward.  But  all  his  elo- 
quence was  in  vain :  so  we  broke  up  the  conference,  and  prepared 
to  pass  the  day  in  quiet  hy  ourselves,  consulting  about  future 
movements,  cleaning  our  arms,  and  recruiting  our  horses.  In 
the  afternoon  we  were  called  upon  by  our  cross-eyed  friend 
and  another  chief,  and  informed  that  we  should  have  their 
assistance  in  getting  all  the  help  we  wanted,  if  we  would  be 
guided  by  their  advice,  and  grant  their  exorbitant  demands. 
It  was  plain  that  a  council  had  been  held,  and  that  our  allies 
wanted  to  get  rid  of  us,  after  obtaining  certain  articles  they 
coveted,  especially  fish-hooks,  at  the  sight  of  which  in  the 
forenoon  they  had  greatly  marvelled,  never  before  having 
seen  steel  or  iron  hooks.  They  also  feared  that  we  should 
forcibly  compel  them  to  furnish  the  help  we  asked  for :  so, 
like  skilful  diplomatists,  they  resolved  to  divert  our  military 
prowess  from  themselves  to  their  enemies.  Accordingly  an 
harangue  was  addressed  to  Don  Pepe,  who  understood  the 
Indian  language,  abounding  in  gestures  and  gutturals  j  which 
he  was  desired  to  expound  to  us  in  good  Castilian. 

The  whole  story  was  to  the  effect  that  our  hosts  (as  they 
might  have  been  termed)  were  a  much-abused  and  long-suf- 
fering people,  honest  and  above  horse-stealing ;  while  a  neigh- 
boring community  some  ten  leagues  away  were  vile  oppressors 
and  bloody-minded  villains,  horse-thieves  by  profession,  whom 
it  would  be  both  just  and  creditable  to  capture  and  enslave,  in 
which  laudable  enterprise  they  would  cheerfully  aid  us. 
While  still  deliberating,  our  conference  was  suddenly  broken 
off  by  the  appearance  of  Juan  Briones  and  his  vaqueros,  who 
brought  the  astounding  intelligence  that  our  whole  caballada 
had  been  stampeded  and  carried  off  by  unknown  Indians. 
Briones  himself  and  a  vaquero  were  wounded  by  arrows ;  and 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  175 

the  other  boy  dragged  along  at  the  end  of  his  lasso  an  Indian 
pf  dogged  and  sullen  aspect. 

While  we  were  listening  to  the  story  of  Briones,  one  of  our 
servants  came  up,  and  told  us  that  every  Indian  in  the 
rancheria  hard  by  had  vanished.  As  these  Indians  instantly 
kill  and  eat  their  stolen  horses  on  reaching  a  place  of  secu- 
rity, our  indignation  was  at  once  aroused ;  and  we  prepared 
to  follow  the  trail,  and  rescue  our  caballada  of  over  forty 
fine,  well-trained  steeds,  amongst  which  were  many  especial 
pets  of  every  individual  of  our  party.  Rafael  Garcia  particu- 
larly lamented  a  gallant  pinto  (spotted  horse),  threatening  to 
cut  his  pedazos  (morsels)  out  of  the  ugly  maw  of  any  Gentile 
who  had  eaten  him ;  and  all  our  party  of  rancheros  imagined 
their  noble  steeds  cut,  slashed,  and  carbonadoed  to  make  a 
banquet  for  thieving  and  graceless  heathens. 

Luckily  Don  Pepe  had  secured  the  persons  of  the  two 
chiefs,  at  Briones'  first  intimation  of  our  loss,  before  they 
could  escape ;  and  instant  death  was  now  denounced  upon  them 
if  our  horses  were  not  recovered  by  the  morning's  light. 
Making  a  virtue  of  necessity,  these  worthies  communicated 
with  their  subordinates,  who  had  taken  refuge  in  the  inacces- 
sible undergrowth  hard  by,  and  collected  a  party  of  twenty 
braves  of  their  rancheria,  armed  with  clubs,  wooden  spears, 
and  bows  and  arrows.  The  big  chief  was  lashed  securely  to  a 
vaquero  of  our  party  as  a  hostage ;  and  the  whole  party 
started  for  the  hills. 

We  soon  struck  the  trail  of  our  horses  ;  and  it  was  so  broad 
and  plain,  that  we  pursued  it  at  full  speed,  our  Indian  allies 
stopping  occasionally  to  verify  it,  while  the  moon  shone 
in  unclouded  brilliancy  after  the  short  twilight  had  passed 
away.  Don  Pepe  rode  far  ahead  of  the  main  body  with  his 
vaqueros,  keeping  a  sharp  lookout  on  the  Indian  runners, 
who  out-travelled  our  horses,  and  seemed  to  enjoy  the  sport 
of  tracking  their  fellow-men  and  brothers  quite  as  well  as  we 


176  KEEL  AND  SADDLE, 

did.  I  have  often  observed  this  peculiarity  among  savages 
when  backed  by  whites. 

About  midnight  we  noticed  that  the  hoof-tracks  were 
quite  fresh  in  the  moist  ground,  ana  by  other  signs  we  knew 
we  were  not  far  in  the  rear  of  our  caballada  and  their  ab- 
ductors. We  now  relaxed  our  speed,  and  proceeded  cau- 
tiously, in  order  not  to  alarm  the  Indian  camp,  upon  which 
we  might  come  at  any  moment.  At  last  it  was  reported 
near  at  hand ;  and  we  dismounted,  leaving  our  horses  under 
charge  of  our  vaqueros,  while  we  silently  and  stealthily  ap- 
proached the  village  on  foot. 

The  little  rancheria  of  lodges  built  of  slender  sticks,  wat- 
tled with  grass  and  mud,  huddled  around  the  usual  temascal 
(sweat-house),  indispensable  in  every  place  of  the  kind,  lay  in 
the  gorge  of  a  canon  (gulley) ;  while  the  hills  rose  steep 
around  it  on  every  side,  save  that  by  which  we  approached. 

No  sound  broke  the  solemn  stillness  of  the  night,  and  the 
whole  scene  was  brightly  illuminated  by  the  moon  and  twinkling 
stars. 

These  Indians  had  no  domestic  animals  whatever,  not  even 
dogs;  which  lack  accounted  for  the  silence,  which  remained 
unbroken,  until,  on  a  nearer  approach,  we  heard  the  stamping 
of  our  captured  horses  from  a  rude  corral  near  the  sweat-house. 
Don  Pepe  instantly  formed  his  plan.  We  withdrew  again  to 
our  cover,  each  of  us  being  assigned  his  place.  The  plan  was 
explained  to  the  Indians,  the  main  body  of  whom,  led  by  Don 
Pepe,  making  a  detour  round  the  village,  climbed  the  hillside, 
and  took  up  a  position  at  the  head  of  the  canon  in  order  to 
cut  off  the  retreat  of  men  and  horses  to  the  hills.  The  rest 
of  us  were  to  attack  in  front  on  signal  from  our  leader,  and 
simultaneously  with  his  party. 

At  two  o'clock  the  moon  had  set,  and  the  village  was  but 
faintly  illuminated  by  the  stars  ;  when  a  group  of  Indians, 
asleep  until  then,  aroused  themselves  under  our  very  eyes  from 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  177 

their  first  nap,  and  gathered  around  a  fire,  whose  embers  they 
raked  into  activity,  and  began  cooking,  eating,  and  gambling, 
often  wrangling  with  each  other  as  they  tossed  the  bones. 
We  could  even  smell  the  savory  horsemeat  as  it  spluttered  on 
the  coals ;  and  Rafael  Garcia  felt  a  bitter  pang  at  the  reflec- 
tion that  it  might  be  a  part  of  his  inestimable  pinto,  for  which 
he  had  refused  five  hundred  dollars. 

We  waited  in  silence  for  an  hour  or  more,  until  the  first 
faint,  gray  streaks  of  dawn  appeared  in  the  east;  when  the 
Indians  of  the  rancheria  gradually  ceased  from  gambling,  and 
sank  again  in  sleep. 

The  gray  tints  now  became  ashes-of-rose  color,  and  the  radi- 
ance of  the  stars  was  slightly  dimmed,  when  from  the  head 
of  the  canon  came  the  cry  of  the  coyote  —  the  small  wolf  of 
the  country  —  thrice  repeated.  This  was  the  signal  for 
mounting  before  the  onset. 

We  all  bestrode  our  horses,  and  a  few  minutes  passed  in 
breathless  expectation  :  then,  from  the  same  quarter,  came  the 
old  Spanish  war-cry  "  Santiago  "  from  the  deep  chest  of  Don 
Pepe  Armenteros,  followed  by  the  shrill  war-whoop  of  our 
Indian  allies.  This  ancient  war-cry  is  still  used  l>y  the  de- 
scendants of  those  heroes  from  whose  lips  it  aroused  the  echoes 
of  many  a  bloody  field  in  bygone  ages.  It  was  the  signal  for 
the  charge  of  mail-clad  knights  against  Moor  and  Saracen, 
against  Mexican  and  Peruvian,  in  later  times ;  and  now  we 
heard  repeated  in  these  untrodden  wilds  the  battle-cry  of  the 
Cid,  of  Ferdinand  of  Aragon,  of  Gonsalvo  de  Cordova,  Don 
John  of  Austria,  Pizarro,  Cortes,  and  Almagro,  —  "  Santiago 
y  cierra  Espana  "  ("  Santiago  and  close  Spain  "). 

We  instantly  moved  up,  and,  intervening  between  the  fire 
and  the  corral,  stood  guard  to  prevent  the  horse-thieves  from 
stampeding  our  imprisoned  animals,  to  which  they  instinctively 
rushed  when  aroused  from  their  sleep.  The  Indian  horde,  thus 
meeting  our  levelled  fire-arms  and  lances,  faced  instantly  in  the 


178  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

opposite  direction,  but  were  intercepted  by  our  leader  and  his 
party,  and  turned  again  on  us,  using  war-clubs,  spears,  and 
bows,  while  a  crowd  of  squaws  in  their  rear  hurled  stones  and 
sticks  at  us  over  their  heads. 

The  'melee  became  general,  and  shot  after  shot  was  heard ; 
while  sabres,  lances,  and  fire-arms  met  the  ruder  Indian  weap- 
ons in  a  hand-to-hand  conflict.  Some  of  the  Indians,  diving 
under  the  bellies  of  our  horses,  succeeded  in  breaking  down  the 
corral ;  but  our  vaqueros  secured  the  breach  before  the  animals 
could  escape,  and  the  enterprise  was  not  renewed.  The  con- 
test ceased  at  last,  the  Indians  sulkily  retiring  out  of  harm's 
way  when  convinced  that  they  had  no  chance  of  success; 
and  their  head  men  sullenly  informed  us  that  they  wanted 
peace. 

It  was  granted  as  soon  as  asked  for :  our  object  was  at- 
tained ;  and  we  recovered  all  the  horses,  save  one  that  had  been 
devoured,  without  the  loss  of  a  man,  although  most  of  our 
party  were  badly  bruised  by  the  shillelahs  of  the  Indians,  and 
several  received  arrow  and  spear  wounds. 

Fortunately  these  horse  cannibals  had  selected  for  their 
feast  an  animal  more  fit  for  eating  than  for  his  other  quali- 
ties. 

We  now  prepared  to  inspect  and  adjudge  the  spolia  opima 
of  our  vanquished  foe ;  but  there  being  but  little  materiel,  and 
that  little  having  been  appropriated  by  our  Indian  allies  in 
their  way,  we  hesitated  not  to  seize  the  personnel  we  had 
legitimately  acquired,  according  to  the  notions  prevalent  at 
that  time  in  California.  The  prisoners  thus  pressed  into  our 
service  were  divided  equally  among  our  party,  submitting 
resignedly  and  even  joyfully  to  their  fate :  they  selected  those 
of  their  squaws  and  children  whom  they  wished  to  accompany 
them ;  and  we  all  left  for  home,  after  rewarding  our  Indian 
allies.  Arriving  at  our  respective  ranches,  our  captives  were 
soon  domiciled,  and  supplied  with  full  rations  of  beef;  and,  hav- 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  179 

ing  finished  their  task  of  making  adobes  (sun-dried  bricks)  for 
building-purposes,  they  were  permitted  to  depart,  laden  with 
good  shirts  and  blankets. 

Two  of  the  "  bucks  "  remained  with  me,  preferring  good  liv- 
ing and  kind  treatment  to  their  precarious,  half-starved  condi- 
tion in  their  native  wilds ;  and,  from  savage  and  graceless 
"  Gentiles,"  were  converted  into  decent  and  respectable  "  Chris- 
tianos." 

I  remained  at  San  Geronimo,  attending  to  my  duties  both 
public  and  private ;  but,  near  the  end  of  the  year  1849,  I  re- 
signed my  commission  as  lieutenant  in  the  United-States 
navy,  hopeless  of  promotion  after  twenty  years  of  service,  yet 
reluctant  to  abandon  my  profession. 


XXIII. 

AMONG  my  guests  at  San  Geronimo  during  this  rainy 
season  was  one  Sandy  (or  Alexander)  McGregor,  a 
Kentuckian  born  of  Scotch  parents ;  and,  large  as  has  been 
my  acquaintance  with  mankind,  really  the  most  remarkable 
man  I  ever  met,  albeit  utterly  unknown  to  fame. 

The  most  gifted  persons,  I  have  long  ago  ascertained,  are  by 
no  means  the  most  celebrated  or  notorious ;  and  I  have  known 
several  instances  of  those  in  the  humbler  walks  of  life,  of  the 
finest  natural  ability,  and  even  of  deep  erudition,  who  have 
never  aspired  to  rise  in  the  social  scale  by  means  of  their  tal- 
ents or  learning,  improbable  as  this  may  seem. 

Of  this  sort  was  Sandy  McGregor.  His  physique  instantly 
commanded  attention,  especially  his  high  frontal  bones,  rising 
almost  into  deformity,  crowned  with  red  hair  and  shaggy 
brows,  beneath  which  his  piercing  gray  eyes  seemed  to  glow 
with  real  fire.  He  was  slightly  above  the  medium  height, 
lank  and  raw-boned ;  and  his  sinewy  arms  were  as  long  as 
Scott  has  told  us  were  his  clansman  Rob  Roy's,  who  could  tie 
his  garters  below  the  knee  without  stooping.  He  was  a  good 
rider,  an  unerring  shot ;  and  his  muscular  strength  was  her- 
culean. 

His  character  was  as  remarkable  as  his  physical  organiza- 
tion. I  have  never  met  with  any  man  of  such  truly  heroic 
attributes  as  this  obscure  Kentuckian,  who  was  destined  to  go 
through  the  world  without  an  opportunity  of  displaying  them 
180 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  181 

on  a  stage  commensurate  with  their  importance.  His  courage 
was  of  the  lofty  kind  usually  found  among  Kentuckians; 
added  to  which  he  had  an  imperturbable  sang-froid  that  was 
equal  to  any  emergency,  not  only  in  situations  of  personal 
peril,  but  also  in  financial  or  business  operations  where  great 
daring  and  quick  calculation  were  essential  to  success. 

He  acted  promptly  and  decided  quickly,  like  most  frontiers- 
men accustomed  to  a  life  of  constant  danger ;  and  carried  his 
decisions  into  effect  with  a  power  of  will  as  fixed  and  inevita- 
ble as  the  fabled  Nemesis. 

This  man's  intellect  was  of  the  highest  order :  he  had  a  power 
of  combination  I  have  never  seen  equalled;  and  his  memory 
was  so  remarkable,  that  he  could  relate  even  the  most  minute 
transaction  of  his  life  with  perfect  distinctness. 

He  was  obstinate,  —  mulish  even;  and  his  opinions  once 
formed  were  unchangeable :  but  he  was  generous  to  a  fault ; 
and,  without  being  impulsive,  was  a  true  and  reliable  friend. 

In  this  sententiousness  he  had  reason ;  for  his  estimate  of 
men  and  their  acts  was  generally  as  correct  as  a  geometrical 
problem.  By  some  process  of  ratiocination  which  I  never 
could  comprehend,  and  of  which  he  himself  could  give  no 
lucid  explanation,  McGregor  could  at  once  resolve  the  most 
intricate  arithmetical  questions  that  might  be  proposed. 

With  all  his  wonderful  genius,  this  singular  being  had 
received  no  education,  being  entirely  ignorant  of  letters :  he 
could  not  write  a  line  of  intelligible  English,  or  even  sign  his 
own  name.  True,  he  did  make  certain  marks  with  a  pen  that 
looked  like  it,  as  he  was  sometimes  called  upon  to  authenticate  a 
document  by  his  signature ;  but  it  could  hardly  be  taken  for 
what  it  purported  to  be,  had  the  scrawl  not  been  attested  by 
an  intricate  rubrica  (flourish)  in  the  Spanish  manner. 

McGregor  was  a  man  of  wealth,  possessed  of  real  estate 
and  stock  of  different  kinds :  he  not  only  had  investments  in 
the  principal  cities  of  the  United  States,  but  had  also  dealings 
16 


182  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

with  bankers  in  the  European  commercial  centres;  and  his 
paper  was  good  in  all.  His  large  property  was  intrusted  to 
agents  of  his  own  selection,  who  were  accountable  to  him  alone, 
while  he  picked  up  amanuenses  wherever  he  might  be  for  his 
correspondence. 

The  parents  of  McGregor  died  of  the  cholera  in  1832 :  and 
he  had  not  a  relative  in  the  world,  as  he  told  me ;  for  he  was 
a  bachelor. 

He  had  left  his  home  at  eleven  years  of  age ;  since  when  he 
had  roamed  over  the  continent,  having  adopted  the  wild,  free, 
and  independent  life  of  a  trapper  and  fur-trader.  In  this 
capacity  he  passed  many  years  without  seeing  a  white  face, 
and  was  a  chief  in  some  Indian  tribes. 

Having  accumulated  a  pecuniary  nucleus  by  that  traffic,  he 
increased  his  capital  by  judicious  speculations.  Sandy  had 
been  converted  to  the  Catholic  faith  by  Father  De  Smets,  the 
celebrated  Jesuit  missionary  to  the  tribes  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains :  and  I  was  sometimes  astonished  to  hear  this  unlettered 
demi-savage  talk  about  the  abstruse  theological  discussions  he 
had  entered  into  with  learned  persons  of  other  denominations ; 
for,  whatever  he  attempted  to  learn,  he  mastered  thoroughly. 

With  all  these,  and  higher  qualities  I  need  not  describe, 
McGregor  had  his  failings.  He  could  hardly  be  called  intem- 
perate ;  for,  although  he  often  indulged  in  potations  "  pottle 
deep,"  I  never  knew  his  reason  to  be  clouded,  or  his  motions 
unsteady:  he  betrayed  his  "elevation"  only  by  'his  Scotch 
fondness  for  argument  on  such  occasions.  But  his  besetting 
sin  was  play.  He  was  the  most  inveterate  gamester  I  ever 
knew ;  and  I  have  known  many. 

All  games  of  chance  were  familiar  to  him :  but  poker,  brag, 
and  euchre  were  his  favorites ;  and  he  frequently  sat  at  these 
games  for  several  consecutive  days  and  nights,  his  adversaries 
relieving  each  other  when  exhausted ;  but  there  never  was  a  sign 
of  weariness  in  his  iron  frame  and  tenacious  spirit.  He  would 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  183 

play  for  any  amount,  great  or  small,  and  with  any  one  who 
would  play  with  him :  he  preferred  gentlemen,  if  he  could  have 
them,  and  high  stakes ;  but,  if  no  others  offered,  I  have  known 
him  to  sit  down  with  a  poor  Mexican  or  Indian,  and  play  for 
clacos. 

One  night,  when  I  was  sitting  with  McGregor,  a  neighbor 
came  to  my  house  with  the  intelligence  that  a  ship  had  been 
wrecked  at  the  Punta  de  los  Reyes,  a  bold  promontory  stretch- 
ing into  the  Pacific  about  four  or  five  leagues  from  San  Ge- 
ronimo,  and  that  the  whole  rural  population  was  in  motion  for 
the  scene  of  the  disaster.  At  daylight  we  also  started  with 
our  vaqueroS)  arriving  quite  early  at  the  rancho  of  Rafael 
Garcia,  which  was  the  only  inhabited  place  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  wreck. 

The  vessel  proved  to  be  a  large  bark  from  Bremen,  as  we 
were  informed  by  her  captain,  who  had  landed  safely  with  his 
crew  and  passengers ;  the  latter  having  immediately  left  for 
the  gold  diggings.  He  had  mistaken  the  mouth  of  the  Estero 
de  los  Tamales  for  the  harbor  of  San  Francisco ;  and,  attempt- 
ing to  enter  it,  his  vessel  had  struck  upon  a  reef,  and  almost 
immediately  broken  up.  The  shores  of  the  estuary  we're  cov- 
ered with  pipes,  hogsheads,  casks,  barrels,  and  boxes  of  mer- 
chandise of  every  description ;  the  ship  having  been  laden 
with  an  assorted  cargo  of  European  goods.  Many  residents 
of  the  surrounding  region  had  already  arrived,  and  were  help- 
ing themselves  to  these  articles,  to  which  their  "right  there 
was  none  to  dispute ; "  while  the  jolly  proprietor  of  the  soil 
dreamed  not  of  asserting  his  rights  of  "  flotsam  and  jetsam." 

There  were  cases  of  the  finest  wines  and  liquors,  sardines 
and  sweetmeats,  all  unknown  to  the  primitive  rancheros  :  and 
the  men  were  securing  these ;  while  the  women  were  breaking 
open  cases  of  silk  and  woollen  fabrics  of  delicate  texture  and 
gorgeous  dyes,  disdaining  the  commoner  cotton  prints,  which 
they  left  for  their  Indian  servants.  These  lighter  articles 


184  ..      KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

having  been  appropriated  galore,  the  multitude  turned  their 
attention  to  the  plethoric  casks  and  barrels  which  were  thump- 
ing in  the  surf,  as  if  they,  too,  were  desirous  of  being  assisted 
up  high  and  dry  on  the  beach,  to  share  the  fate  of  their  more 
buoyant  shipmates.  The  wind,  blowing  directly  into  the 
estuary,  drove  the  whole  cargo,  or  as  much  of  it  as  would  float, 
right  on  the  beach,  where  it  could  be  secured :  so  the  people 
had  only  to  help  themselves. 

The  lord  of  the  manor,  Don  Rafael,  and  his  hospitable  family, 
quickly  converted  the  occasion  into  one  of  festivity ;  and  the 
poor  rancho  resembled  the  mansion  of  Magnus  Troil  on  the 
night  of  the  ball.  The  long,  low,  one-storied  house,  with  its 
spreading  eaves,  was  profusely  illuminated  with  the  best  wax- 
candles  in  bronze  or  plated  candelabra  of  artistic  patterns, 
adorned  with  artificial  flowers  of  every  hue ;  while  the  rugged 
walls  were  concealed  with  framed  engravings :  and  beneath 
them  was  arrayed  elegant  furniture  in  buhl  and  marquetrie, 
on  which  stood  crowds  of  bottles,  from  which  the  company  re- 
galed themselves  with  unlimited  champagne,  and  the  delicate 
wines  of  the  Rhine  and  Burgundy,  and  toasted  old  Father 
Neptune  in  gratitude  for  his  beneficence. 

Instead  of  tortillas  —  the  national  griddle-cake  —  we  had 
soda,  wine,  and  captain's  biscuits;  and  pale  defoie  f/ras  took 
the  place  of  beefsteaks  broiled  on  the  coals,  —  called  came 
asado. 

The  rancheros,  who  had  brought  their  guitars  and  fiddles 
strapped  on  their  backs,  soon  struck  up  merry  tunes ;  and 
the  light-hearted  Spanish  girls  and  their  cavaliers  danced  the 
jarabe,  the  waltz,  and  other  national  dances,  all  night  long ; 
while  the  elders  sat  about  amusing  themselves  with  monte 
and  euchre. 

Fat  muttons  and  beeves  were  slaughtered  by  Don  Rafael ; 
and  the  cocina  was  alive  with  women  preparing  the  various 
dishes  affected  by  native  Californians,  seasoned  with  the  con- 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  185 

diments  saved  from  the  wreck.  Wearied  at  last,  I  went  forth 
to  enjoy  the  fresh  air,  and  found  myself  in  the  presence  of  a 
strange  scene.  Those  guests  who  were,  like  myself,  tired  of 
dancing,  or  were  desirous  of  sleep  from  other  reasons,  lay 
around  the  house  on  the  grass  under  the  trees  (no  hardship 
in  this  lovely  climate),  rolled  in  their  gay  scrapes ;  or  were 
lounging  in  groups,  smoking  the  eternal  cigarette. 

I  even  fancied  there  were  some  couples  improving  the  occa- 
sion to  enjoy  each  other's  society  while  their  parents  were 
absorbed  in  cards,  or  who  snored,  oblivious  of  their  children 
and  all  the  world  besides. 

The  next  morning  I  was  early  afoot,  but  found  all  the  guests 
already  risen,  and  awaiting  their  desayuna,  which  they  took 
alfresco,  there  being  no  room  within-doors,  nor  tables  enough 
to  hold  a  hundredth  part  of  the  company.  It  was  the  jolliest 
merienda  (picnic)  I  ever  attended,  and  was  kept  up  for  a 
whole  week. 

In  the  daytime  we  had  exhibitions  of  skill  with  the  lasso, 
the  game  of  colear,  —  in  which  a  party  on  horseback  chase  a 
wild  bull,  and  try  to  upset  him  by  his  tail,  —  cavaliers  trying 
to  unhorse  each  other ;  and  one  day  a  large  grisly  bear  was 
tied  to  a  fierce  bull  with  a  riata,  and  both  turned  into  a  corral 
to  fight.  The  bull  was  victorious,  —  viva  el  toro,  —  killing  the 
bear,  although  dreadfully  lacerated;  after  which  feat  he  was 
magnanimously  liberated  to  rejoin  his  harem  in  the  wild 
woods. 

The  captain  of  the  lost  bark  made  a  trip  to  San  Francisco 
and  returned  before  the  festivities  were  over;  and  the  novel 
spectacle  pleased  him  much ;  although,  poor  man,  he  told  us  he 
had  lost  his  little  all,  and  would  have  to  begin  life  anew,  with 
the  disadvantage  of  this  misfortune  upon  him.  Still,  he  said, 
he  was  in  a  country  where,  above  all  others,  there  were  oppor- 
tunities to  retrieve  his  losses. 

Before  he  left  us,  he  accompanied  McGregor  and  myself  to 
•  16* 


186  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

the  wreck  in  a  canoe.  The  ship  had  drifted  or  been  forced 
over  the  reef  into  still  water  under  its  lee.  The  captain  told 
us  that  in  the  run,  under  the  floor  of  the  cabin,  was  a  little 
iron  safe,  containing  a  small  sum  of  money,  some  valuable 
articles,  and  a  lot  of  papers;  which  last  he  was  exceedingly 
desirous  to  recover.  He  said  that  if  we  could  get  these  papers 
for  him,  even  if  wet,  we  were  welcome  to  the  remainder  of  the 
contents  of  the  safe,  which  would  well  repay  us  for  our  trouble ; 
and  having  received  his  address,  and  promising  to  mention 
the  subject  to  no  other  parties,  we  separated. 

We  could  do  nothing  at  the  time  of  our  visit  to  recover  this 
safe,  as  the  quarter-deck  was  several  fathoms  under  the  surface 
of  the  water,  and  operating  from  a  rickety  canoe  was  impos- 
sible. The  great  fandango  having  come  to  an  end  at  last,  the 
merry  party  separated,  returning  to  their  homes  with  their 
valuable  acquisitions,  and  with  the  consciousness  of  a  well- 
spent  holiday,  whose  pleasures  no  untoward  circumstance  had 
occurred  to  mar. 

McGregor  and  I  returned  to  San-  Geronimo,  and  set  about 
concocting  a  plan  to  recover  the  captain's  iron  safe.  Our 
preparations  being  completed,  we  set  out  for  the  estuary,  but 
avoided  the  house  of  Garcia,  preferring  to  keep  our  business  to 
ourselves.  We  encamped  in  a  well-sheltered  and  concealed 
nook  on  a  beach  between  two  headlands,  and  came  prepared 
to  spend  a  week  if  necessary.  Our  first  step  was  to  send  an 
Indian  boy  to  get  the  canoe  we  had  used  before,  and  which 
was  the  only  boat  in  the  Estero  de  los  Tamales.  Then  we 
made  a  raft,  under  my  directions,  of  the  empty  casks  and  drift- 
wood, of  which  there  was  plenty  in  the  neighborhood,  lashing 
its  -parts  securely  with  some  small  manila  cordage  I  had 
brought  with  me. 

This  raft  we  towed  off  to  the  wreck  at  slack-water  early  in 
the  morning  before  the  wind  had  risen,  and  brought  it  over 
the  quarter-deck  of  the  submerged  vessel.  I  had  secured  the 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  187 

services  of  a  native  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  who  was  a  skil- 
ful diver,  like  all  his  countrymen ;  and  from  the  raft  he  went 
down  upon  the  ship's  deck,  and,  after  considerable  exertion, 
succeeded  in  getting  the  companion-way  detached  from  its 
place  on  the  quarter-deck.  The  cabin  was  now  open  to  us. 
Our  diver  next  pried  off  the  scuttle  in  the  cabin-floor  leading 
to  the  run,  and,  finding  the  iron  safe  directly  beneath  it,  made 
ropes  fast  to  it ;  and  we  suspended  it  to  the  raft. 

We  then  towed  the  raft  back  to  the  beach,  and  soon  landed 
the  safe.  This  we  blew  open  with  gunpowder,  and  found  its 
valuable  contents  uninjured.  We  gave  the  captain  his  papers 
and  half  the  money:  the  other  half  and  the  jewelry  we  di- 
vided between  us. 

As  we  could  work  only  when  the  sea  was  calm,  our  opera- 
tions lasted  nearly  a  week ;  but  our  time  just  then  was  of  little 
account. 


XXIV. 

IN  the  month  of  September,  1851,  my  friend  McGregor 
and  myself  planned  a  voyage  from  San  Francisco  to  the 
coast  of  Mexico,  and  purchased  together  the  brigantine  "La 
Golondrina,"  a  clipper  of  two  hundred  tons  burthen,  built  in 
Ferrol,  Spain,  from  a  Baltimore  model.  She  had  a  Spanish 
register,  and,  consequently,  sailed  under  Spanish  colors.  Tak- 
ing command  of  this  little  vessel,  I  shipped  a  crew  of  twenty 
men,  and  fitted  her  for  sea.  Our  crew  was  as  cosmopolitan  as 
San  Francisco  itself.  My  chief  mate  was  a  Yankee  from 
Truro  on  Cape  Cod,  the  best  man  on  board ;  the  second  officer 
a  hardy  Dane ;  and  the  boatswain  was  my  old  shipmate  whom 
I  have  mentioned  as  receiving  me  with  such  lavish  hospitality 
when  I  landed  in  California  from  the  steamer.  The  crew 
consisted  of  four  Dutchmen  and  a  Finn,  two  Italians,  one 
Frenchman,  two  Spaniards,  and  five  Kanakas.  The  cook  was 
a  North-Carolina  darky  named  Job. 

Having  been  a  packet,  "The  Golendrina"  had  superior 
accommodations.  She  carried  two  twelve-pound  carronades, 
or  howitzers,  in  the  waist,  one  on  each  side,  and  a  long  nine- 
pound  pivot-gun  of  bronze  on  the  forecastle,  with  the  necessary 
ammunition  and  small-arms. 

Sandy  McGregor  knocked  two  berths  into  one  to  accommo- 
date his  long  legs  ;  and,  as  supercargo,  purchased,  and  stowed 
away  under  hatches,  a  notable  cargo  of  Chinese  goods  for  the 
market  to  which  we  were  bound.  We  made  a  good  run  down 

188 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  189 

the  coast,  and,  having  disposed  of  our  cargo  to  advantage,  took 
in  a  return  freight,  which  was  landed  in  due  season  at  San 
Francisco. 

The  business  proving  remunerative,  we  soon  started  on  a 
second  trip,  touching  at  Cape  St.  Lucas,  thence  to  La  Paz, 
Loreto,  and  Mulege,  ports  of  the  Sea  of  Cortes,  and  to 
Guaymas,  where  we  remained  for  some  weeks ;  then,  having 
finished  our  business,  we  continued  our  voyage  down  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  California.  The  tract  of  country 
lying  between  the  embouchures  of  the  Hiaqui  and  Mayo  Bivers 
is  peopled  with  a  race  of  fierce  and  intractable  Indians,  with 
whom  the  Spaniards  have  had  much  trouble  since  the  days  of 
Cortes,  who  gives  them  the  same  warlike  character  in  the 
account  of  his  voyage  of  discovery  to  this  sea,  which  bears  his 
name.  Their  territory,  however,  is  claimed,  under  certain 
grants,  by  some  Mexican  proprietors,  who  have  possession  in 
some  places,  the  inhabitants  of  which  pay  them  a  sort  of  feudal 
tribute.  Most  of  the  tribes  live  in  independent  communities, 
and  are  very  warlike.  Large  tracts  are  owned  and  peopled  in 
this  way  by  the  two  rival  families  of  Inigo  and  Gandara,  who 
keep  the  State  of  Sonora  in  constant  turmoil  with  their  con- 
flicting pretensions ;  being,  indeed,  the  Guelphs  and  Ghibellines 
of  the  country.  The  object  of  their  contentions  is,  as  usual 
in  like  cases,  political,  —  the  filling  of  the  offices,  and  conse- 
quent power  of  laying  imposts  and  taxes,  and  receipt  of  the 
customs. 

In  passing  this  part  of  the  coast  a  day  or  two  after  leaving 
Guaymas,  running  before  the  trade-wind,  we  espied  a  vessel 
ashore  on  the  beach ;  and,  feeling  our  way  with  the  lead,  stood 
in  as  close  as  was  prudent.  She  proved  to  be  a  polacca-brig 
high  and  dry  on  the  beach.  Her  bows  were  nearest  the  shore, 
her  .stern  being  seaward,  and  her  crew  were  crowded  together 
aft;  while  a  swarm  of  naked  Indians  on  the  beach  were  shoot- 
ing their  arrows  and  hurling  spears  at  them,  occasionally 


190  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

trying  to  board  over  the  bows.  As  soon  as  this  state  of  affairs 
was  understood,  I  ordered  the  anchor  let  go,  hoisted  out  and 
manned  the  launch  and  two  whale-boats,  putting  one  of  the 
carronades  into  the  former,  and,  with  nearly  my  whole  crew 
in  the  boats,  pulled  for  the  wreck.  Nearing  her,  I  saw  that 
boarding  would  be  dangerous  in  the  state  of  the  sea :  so,  con- 
sulting with  McGregor,  I  resolved  to  disperse  the  Indians 
first,  and  then  attempt  the  rescue  of  the  people  on  the  brig. 
The  Indians  were  frantic  at  the  prospect  of  a  rescue,  and 
redoubled  their  efforts  to  board;  so  that  the  crew  had  their 
hands  full  in  repelling  them. 

McGregor  and  the  second  mate,  with  eighteen  of  my  men, 
armed  with  muskets  and  bayonets,  in  the  two  whale-boats, 
now  landed  through  the  high  surf  that  was  running  on  the 
beach ;  while  I,  in  the  launch,  brought  the  gun  to  bear  upon 
the  Indian  rout,  having  let  go  my  grapnel  over  the  stern,  thus 
anchoring  the  launch  just  outside  the  surf.  As  soon  as  I  saw 
the  whale-boats  land,  I  fired  the  carronade,  loaded  with  grape, 
into  the  crowd ;  and  at  the  same  time  McGregor  charged  them 
with  the  bayonet,  after  a  volley.  The  Indian  mob  opened  and 
admitted  our  sailors,  closing  upon  their  rear ;  and  I  feared,  for 
a  moment,  that  they  must  be  surrounded  and  all  killed  or 
taken  prisoners  :  but  a  second  shot  from  my  carronade  caused 
the  Indians  to  waver;  and  I  saw  McGregor  and  his  men 
re-appear,  maintaining  an  effective  fire.  Sandy  himself  seemed 
to  clear  his  way  with  his  long  and  keen  sabre  wherever  he 
moved;  and  the  sheen  of  its  blade  was  dimmed  by  blood. 
Our  men  kept  together,  back  to  back,  in  two  small  groups,  as 
they  had  been  instructed,  like  what  is  called  a  Prussian  or 
light-infantry  square,  which  enabled  me  to  fire  an  occasional 
shot  at  the  Indians  without  hurting  my  own  fellows.  The 
Indians  at  last  were  convinced,  that,  with  their  inferior 
weapons,  they  could  not  successfully  oppose  us,  and  that  mere 
numbers  would  not  give  them  the  victory ;  for  they  had  not 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  191 

injured  a  single  man  of  our  force,  while  many  of  them  had  bit 
the  dust.  So  they  began  to  scatter,  retreating  a  short  dis- 
tance, apparently  to  hold  a  council. 

I  had  no  desire  to  see  the  combat  renewed,  and,  sending  a 
round  shot  at  the  enemy,  sounded  the  recall,  and  my  boats 
came  alongside  the  launch.  The  casualties  were  few:  four 
men  had  broken  heads,  and  three  had  spear  and  arrow 
wounds;  while  McGregor  reported  six  bodies  of  the  enemy 
left  on  the  field,  of  which  he  grimly  exhibited  the  scalps.  He 
had  acquired  the  Indian  habit  of  preserving  trophies  of  his 
victory.  He  said  that  they  had  carried  off  many  dead  and 
wounded  in  their  retreat,  and  would  not  trouble  us  again ;  in 
which  opinion  I  fully  agreed  with  him. 

We  now  turned  our  attention  to  the  crew  of  the  brig ; 
and  veering  a  line  to  them  from  the  windward,  out  of  the 
launch,  thus  established  communication.  We  then  brought 
them  one  by  one  —  seventeen  men  and  one  lady  —  aboard  the 
launch,  together  with  some  wearing  apparel  and  a  few  articles 
of  value,  returned  to  "The  Golondrina,"  and  gained  tfie  offing. 
We  lay  off  and  on  during  the  night,  and  stood  in  on  the  next 
morning,  at  the  solicitation  of  the  captain,  intending  to  recover 
some  of  the  lading  of  the  brig  if  it  were  possible.  She  had, 
however,  broken  in  two  during  the  night;  and  the  Indians 
swarmed  in  such  numbers  on  the  beach,  that  I  abandoned  the 
plan,  and  continued  our  voyage.  The  brig  was  "  The  Her-, 
mosa  Gaditana  "  of  Cadiz,  on  a  trading  voyage.  Her  passen- 
gers and  crew  were  profuse  in  their  expressions  of  gratitude  to 
us  for  saving  them  from  death,  which  assuredly  would  have 
been  their  fate  at  the  hands  of  the  savage  Hiaquis. 

Touching  at  Altata,  in  a  few  days  I  landed  them  all  safely 
at  Mazatlan ;  for  which  I  have  since  received  substantial 
acknowledgments  from  the  Spanish  Government  and  others. 

Vessels  arriving  at  Mexican  ports  with  merchandise  are 
commonly  admitted  to  discharge  their  cargoes  only  after  a 


192  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

tedious  negotiation  with  the  administrador  (collector),  and 
much  bargaining  with  the  underlings  of  the  customs  as  to  the 
scale  of  duties  to  he  paid,  which  leads  to  tiresome  delays;  and 
do  not  usually  anchor  in  the  port  until  the  negotiation  is  con- 
cluded. The  arancel  (tariff)  is  seldom  adhered  to,  or  even 
taken  as  a  guide  :  so  that  you  never  know  how  much  or  how 
little  duty  you  will  have  to  pay. 

This  state  of  things  produces  frightful  corruption  and 
bribery,  and  encourages  smuggling,  which  is  connived  at  by 
the  officials,  who  do  not  scruple  to  make  out  of  their  official 
positions  as  much  money  as  they  can. 

In  our  case,  finding  we  could  come  to  no  satisfactory  agree- 
ment with  the  resguardo  of  Mazatlan,  after  anchoring  I  sent 
McGregor  in  a  boat  to  San  Bias ;  whence  he  returned  in  a 
few  days  with  the  announcement  that  our  goods  would  be 
admitted  at  that  port  on  much  more  reasonable  terms  than  at 
Mazatlan.  San  Bias,  also,  had  the  advantage  of  proximity  to 
the  interior  lines'  of  travel  and  transportation.  "  The  Golon- 
drina "  was  always  ready  for  sea :  so  Sandy  and  myself  went 
ashore  to  the  counting-house  of  a  merchant  who  had  accepted 
the  draft  of  our  consignee  in  Guaymas  for  thirty  thousand 
dollars ;  which  amount  was  paid  in  golden  ounces,  and  taken 
charge  of  by  my  partner,  who  secured  it  round  his  waist  in  a 
handkerchief. 

The  Mexican  laws  are  very  severe  against  the  exportation 
of  bullion  under  any  circumstances;  and  it  is  necessary  to 
smuggle  it  out  of  the  country  at  great  risk,  heightened  by  the 
promise  to  informers  of  one-half  the  forfeited  amount.  The 
officials,  consequently,  have  sharp  eyes  for  smugglers.  Sandy 
determined  to  take  the  chances ;  and  together  we  walked  lei- 
surely down  to  the  quay,  past  the  custom-house,  with  its  loun- 
ging officials,  and  entered  our  whale-boat,  and  shoved  off. 
Whether  my  partner  had  put  on  too  bold  an  air  as  he  passed 
this  group,  marching  with  his  head  in  the  air  and  regarding 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  193 

them  defiantly,  or  whether  his  gait  betrayed  his  secret  burden, 
I  know  not ;  but  we  had  scarcely  got  a  boat's  length  from  the 
quay  when  an  inspector  came  running  down  from  the  custom- 
house, shouting  to  us  to  return.  The  guard,  loading  their 
pieces,  followed  him,  under  command  of  a  sergeant. 

My  partner  and  I  exchanged  glances  without  speaking,  and 
instantly  understood  that  we  must  keep  all  the  advantage  we 
had,  and  continue  our  course  to  the  vessel.  I  therefore  called 
upon  the  men  to  stretch  to  their  oars,  and  give  way  with  a 
will ;  and  the  light  whale-boat  flew  through  the  water.  We 
had  about  two  miles  to  row;  but,  when  we  had  made  about 
half  the  distance,  we  saw  the  captain  of  the  port's  gig  in  full 
chase,  and  rapidly  gaining  on  us.  "Now,"  said  I,  "Mac, 
throw  the  money  overboard ;  for,  if  it  is  found  on  us,  we  shall 
have  twenty  years  of  presidio."  —  "No,"  said  he  coolly: 
"wait." 

Not  knowing  what  his  plans  were,  but  confiding  in  his 
resources,  I  kept  silence.  Our  boat  ran  alongside  "  The  Go- 
londrina,"  and  we  went  up  the  side.  McGregor  went  forward ; 
while  I  remained  on  the  quarter-deck  to  receive  the  captain  of 
the  port,  who  soon  reached  the  vessel. 

In  the  expression  of  his  face  I  saw  at  once  that  he  knew  all 
about  the  money;  and  he  told  me  politely,  but  firmly,  that  he 
came  to  take  possession  of  the  vessel.  Though  strongly 
tempted  to  pitch  him  overboard,  I  restrained  myself,  and  stood 
quiet  while  he  summoned  from  his  boat  his  most  skilful  de- 
tectives, and  began  to  ransack  the  little  vessel.  They  were 
evidently  old  hands  at  the  business,  and  searched  everywhere 
for  two  mortal  hours ;  when  they  ceased.  The  bland  captain 
then  took  his  leave,  giving  me  to  understand  that  he  should 
return  soon  ;  and,  if  the  money  was  not  forthcoming,  he  should 
unship  the  rudder,  and  unbend  my  sails.  The  vessel  would  be 
libelled  in  the  court  of  admiralty ;  and,  meanwhile,  he  should 
leave  an  officer  on  board  until  he  returned. 
17 


194  KEEL   AND  SADDLE, 

Although  my  partner  was  present  during  our  conversation, 
his  conduct  was  an  enigma  to  me  ;  for  he  never  lost  his 
sang-froid,  and  did  nothing  but  smile  at  the  threats  of  the 
official  or  my  own  misgivings :  but  when  dinner  was  served 
in  the  cabin,  after  the  departure  of  the  port-captain,  his  com- 
posure was  accounted  for.  Honest  Job  brought  his  capacious 
iron  pot  into  the  pantry,  as  usual,  to  dip  up  the  meal,  and 
from  its  depths  fished  out  Sandy's  pongee  handkerchief,  con- 
taining the  gold  which  had  been  so  diligently  sought  for  by 
the  myrmidons  of  the -customs.  My  partner  then  told  me, 
that,  while  coming  alongside  in  the  boat,  he  had  caught  sight 
of  Job's  ebon  visage,  busy  near  his  galley-fire,  and,  by  a  gleam 
of  inspiration,  conceived  the  idea  of  hiding  his  treasure  by 
popping  it  into  the  cook's  kettle ;  which  he  lost  no  time  in  do- 
ing, telling  Job  to  continue  his  avocation  with  an  appearance 
of  indifference. 

Our  merriment  over  the  successful  result  of  his  ruse,  how- 
ever, was  suddenly  cut  short  by  the  darkening  of  the  cabin 
skylight ;  and,  looking  up,  we  saw  the  head  of  the  officer  whom 
Capt.  Horn  had  left  on  board  at  his  departure,  and  who  could 
not  restrain  a  Spanish  exclamation  at  sight  of  the  treasure  lying 
before  us. 

The  situation  now  called  for  prompt  measures.  The  angry 
inspector  was  quickly  bundled  into  a  boat,  and  transferred  to  a 
small  vessel  near  us;  our  anchor  was  tripped,  and  sail  made; 
and,  in  less  than  twenty  minutes,  we  were  gliding  towards  the 
entrance  of  the  harbor.  We  soon  gained  an  offing :  but,  as 
usual  in  this  latitude,  the  wind  fell  towards  night ;  and  the 
next  morning  the  high  peak  of  Creston,  marking  the  port, 
was  still  in  sight.  We  were  in  good  spirits,  however,  as  \ve 
had  outwitted  the  custom-house  officials,  and  at  sea  with  our 
ship  and  cargo  under  us.  Just  after  breakfast,  looking  toward 
Mazatlan,  we  saw  with  the  glass  two  large  balandras  (large 
launches)  and  a  man-of-war's  boat  coming  out  of  the  harbor; 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  195 

and,  as  they  approached  us,  we  saw  that  the  former,  besides 
their  usual  crews  at  the  oars,  were  crowded  with  Mexican  sol- 
diers, while  we  knew  at  once  that  the  man-of-war  boat  was 
from  the  British  frigate  "  Constance." 

We  had  no  alternative  but  to  prepare  for  action  immedi- 
ately; knowing  that,  if  we  yielded,  imprisonment  and  confis- 
cation of  ship  and  cargo  would  inevitably  follow  :  so  we  got  the 
long  nine  up  on  the  forecastle,  fixed  it  on  its  pivot,  cast  loose 
and  shotted  the  carronades,  and  laid  muskets,  pistols,  cutlasses, 
and  boarding-pikes  in  readiness  for  use;  while  the  men  col- 
lected at  their  quarters,  delighted  at  the  prospect  of  a  row  with 
the  "greasers." 

As  the  boats  came  nearer,  the  Spanish  flag  was  run  up  to 
the  peak ;  and  I  hailed  them  through  the  trumpet,  telling 
them  to  keep  off,  and  training  the  guns  upon  them,  with 
lighted  port-fires. 

The  English  boat  kept  farther  off  than  the  others  :  and  I 
concluded  she  would  take  no  part  in  the  combat,  if  one  en- 
sued ;  although  she  had  a  small  boat-gun  in  her  bow,  and  ten 
armed  and  red-coated  marines  in  her  stern-sheets.  It  is  the 
practice  of  British  ships  of  war  abroad  to  mix  up  with  the 
quarrels  of  others,  —  I  suppose,  under  instructions  from  home; 
and  they  seem  to  be  a  sort  of  self-constituted  ocean-police  for 
all  nations. 

Any  active  interference  with  my  vessel  would  have  come 
with  exceeding  i)l  grace  at  that  time ;  for  "  The  Constance  " 
was  well  known  to  be  full  of  contraband  bullion,  her  boats  hav- 
ing been  engaged  in  smuggling  plata  pina  (brute  silver)  ever 
since  the  ship  had  been  on  the  coast :  but  perhaps  the  captain 
thought  he  had  a  monopoly  of  the  business,  and  was  inclined 
to  use  his  force  and  the  prestige  of  the  British  navy  to  pre- 
vent others  from  sharing  it,  under  the  specious  pretext  of  vin- 
dicating the  Mexican  laws. 

My  hail  was  answered  by  Capt.  Horn,  from  one  of  the  ba- 


196  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

landras,  with  a  summons  to  surrender.  To  this  I  answered 
that  my  vessel  was  at  sea,  more  than  a  marine  league  from 
Creston,  and  consequently  out  of  the  Mexican  jurisdiction ; 
that  my  duty  compelled  me  to  maintain  my  maritime  rights 
and  those  of  other  interested  parties  ;  that  he  had  better  give 
up  the  idea  of  meddling  with  me  ;  and  finally,  to  cut  the  matter 
short,  that,  if  he  attempted  to  invade  my  vessel,  I  should  treat 
him  as  a  pirate.  As  this  speech  —  shouted  through  the  trum- 
pet in  Spanish,  ore  rotunda  —  concluded,  my  men  gave  a  loud 
and  defiant  cheer.  The  three  boats  then  drew  together,  ap- 
parently to  concert  a  plan  of  attack ;  and,  a  light  air  spring- 
ing up,  we  hauled  by  the  wind  on  the  starboard  tack,  hauled 
up  the  foresail,  and  braced  the  maintopsail  aback,  to  show  we 
did  not  fear  them, 'nor  wished  to  use  our  heels  —  which  we 
might  easily  have  done  —  to  escape. 

The  balandras  then  separated ;  one  pulling  ahead  of  the 
vessel  to  board  over  the  bows,  while  the  other  made  for  the 
starboard  gangway.  The  English  boat  remained  in  reserve, 
attempting  no  demonstration. 

Hans  Petersen,  the  second  mate,  stood  at  his  gun  in  the 
starboard  waist,  port-fire  in  hand;  and,  when  the  second  ba- 
landra  was  within  pistol-shot,  a  soldier  fired  his  piece  at  me, 
standing  on  the  poop,  the  ball  whistling  harmlessly  through 
the  mainsail.  Instantly  I  gave  the  order,  "  Fire ! "  Bang 
went  the  carronade  right  into  the  bows  of  the  boat !  The 
sea  was  freckled  with  grape  ;  and,  in  an  instant,  Horn  and  his 
whole  crew  were  struggling  in  the  water,  which  was  tinged 
with  blood.  The  other  balandra,  which  was  pulling  toward  the 
bows,  seeing  the  saucy  "  Golondrina "  coming  toward  her  with 
a  "bone  in  her  mouth,"  —  for  I  had  filled  away  with  the  inten- 
tion of  running  her  down,  —  rowed  across  our  course  to  avoid 
collision  ;  and  we  passed  on,  tacked,  and  came  towards  the  boats 
on  the  port  tack  again. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  197 

They  had  had  enough,  however;  for  the  cry  of  "Misericor- 
dia  "  was  raised  on  our  approach  :  and  leaving  them  to  assist 
the  sunken  boat,  and  rescue  her  crew,  I  wore  ship,  and  bore 
away  for  San  Bias. 
17* 


XXV. 

~T"T~rE  did  not  touch  at  San  Bias,  as  we  knew  the  report  of 
V  V  our  affair  at  Mazatlaii  would  soon  reach  there  ;  and, 
preferring  to  keep  out  of  the  way  for  some  time  until  the 
memory  of  it  had  blown  over,  we  kept  on  our  southerly  course 
for  a  few  days,  and  anchored  at  last  in  the  Bay  of  Manzanilla. 
Colima  is  the  most  secluded  of  all  the  Mexican  States ;  the 
roads  leading  to  it  being  exceedingly  rough,  and  its  capital  dif- 
ficult of  access  by  land  ;  while  its  commerce  is  very  insignifi- 
cant, although  the  harbor  of  Manzanilla  is  a  commodious  and 
excellent  one.  We  found  no  vessels  at  this  port,  nor  had  any 
visited  it  for  a  long  time  ;  so  that  our  advent  was  warmly  wel- 
comed. The  customs-people  were  exceedingly  accommodating  ; 
and  we  found  them  very  open  to  the  smallest  yratificacioncita 
in  expediting  our  little  comercio  with  the  towns  and  villages 
of  the  neighborhood.  We  were  soon  welcome  guests  every- 
where ;  and  the  little  contretemps  at  Mazatlan,  although  soon 
made  known  to  them,  with  its  attendant  loss  of  life,  proved 
rather  a  recommendation  than  a  disadvantage,  if  we  could 
judge  from  the  hospitality  with  which  we  were  everywhere 
received. 

In  company  with  a  party,  among  whom  was  a  European 
gentleman  of  scientific  attainments,  I  visited  that  great 
natural  curiosity,  the  volcanic  mountain  of  Colima,  which, 
were  Mexico  better  provided  with  accommodations  for  travel- 
lers, hundreds  would  visit.  Having  seen  the  most  gigantic 

198 


KEEL  AND   SADDLE.  199 

of  all  the  volcanoes,  Mouna  Loa,  and  those  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean, South  America,  and  the  East  Indies,  as  well  as  the 
Central- American  burning-mountains,  I  do  not  hesitate  to  say, 
that  to  a  geologist,  and  observer  of  natural  phenomena,  the 
volcano  of  Colima  surpasses  them  all  in  interest. 

The  city  of  Colima  itself  is  a  great  curiosity,  and  reminded 
me  a  little  of  Blidah  "  the  voluptuous,"  in  Algeria,  being 
situated  in  the  midst  of  a  dense  grove  of  waving  palm-trees. 
These  almost  conceal  the  one-story  adobe  houses.  The  people 
are  better  off  than  those  of  other  Mexican  towns,  fewer  "  leperos  " 
and  beggars  being  seen  among  them.  The  city  stands  in  a  fer- 
tile valley  thirty  leagues  from  Manzanilla,  its  nearest  seaport, 
and  twenty  leagues  from  the  original  crater  of  the  volcano.  The 
superior  prosperity  of  the  people  is  probably  owing  to  their 
separation  from  the  rest  of  the  world  by  deep  and  almost  im- 
passable barrancas.  This  region  produces  the  best  coffee  raised 
in  the  republic :  none  of  it  is  exported  beyond  the  city's  walls  ; 
and  it  commands  a  price  of  sixty  cents  to  a  dollar  a  pound. 
Wheat,  rice,  maize,  and  indigo  of  very  superior  quality,  are 
also  produced  in  the  vicinity.  The  climate  is  perfect,  and  the 
country  rich  in  metallic  deposits.  Although  twenty  leagues 
from  the  crater,  Colima  is  built  upon  the  lower  edge  of  the 
extended  slope  of  the  mountain,  and  may  be  said  to  be  in 
daily,  hourly,  danger  of  being  overwhelmed, — a  contingency 
that  would  impart  some  excitement  to  its  residents,  were  they 
not  Mexicans. 

Proceeding  on  horseback  towards  the  cone,  we  arrived  at  the 
little  town  of  Zapilon,  near  which  several  new  craters  had  been 
formed,  and  stopped  for  the  night.  After  dark  the  scene  was 
magnificent.  From  the  old  crater  at  the  summit  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  from  two  new  ones  in  sight,  vast  volumes  of  seething, 
hissing  crimson  matter  shot  upwards,  carrying  with  them  great 
stones,  which  dropped,  and  burst,  apparently,  with  a  tremen- 
dous noise ;  while  streams  of  liquid  lava  rolled  down  the  sides 
like  molten  iron  from  the  furnace. 


•200  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

Mount  Colima  is  a  porphyritic  mountain,  twelve  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea-level,  insulated  in  an  immense  plain,  and 
nearly  a  perfect  cone,  with  the  grand  crater  at  the  apex.  It 
stands  alone  in  its  solitude ;  and  its  aspect  is  barren,  terrible, 
and  threatening.  No  birds  or  other  living  things  make  their 
homes  on  its  adamantine  sides ;  nor  is  there  a  tree,  or  shrub 
even,  to  be  seen. 

We  did  not  undertake  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  ;  for  cer- 
tain death  would  have  followed  the  attempt.  Even  at  Zapilon 
we  were  closer  to  the  crater  than  was  quite  prudent ;  for  the 
town  was  overhung  by  an  enormous  avalanche  of  volcanic  mat- 
ter, which  threatened  to  overwhelm  it  at  any  moment. 

From  the  mountain  we  went  to  examine  the  great  barranca, 
which  may  be  considered  a  natural  fosse,  or  military  ditch, 
separating  this  stupendous  mountain-fortress  system  from  the 
rest  of  Mexico.  It  is  thirteen  miles  in  length,  and,  from  para- 
pet to  counterscarp,  three  miles  in  breadth  ;  the  sides  of  the 
fearful  gorge  being  nearly  perpendicular,  and  three  thousand 
five  hundred  feet  in  length.  It  is  one  of  the  great  wonders  of 
Mexico.  This  fearful  gorge  bears  evidence  that  it  was  torn  out 
of  the  solid  earth  at  some  remote  period  by  a  current  of  lava 
flowing  from  the  main  crater  of  the  mountain.  There  are  six 
other  barrancas  intervening  between  this  and  the  town  of 
Zapotlan,  which  is  the  frontier-town  of  the  neighboring  State 
of  Jalisco.  The  whole  region  is  subject  to  earthquake-shocks. 
The  lava,  both  old  and  new,  is  a  reddish-brown  basaltic  rock 
porphyry,  very  jagged  and  rough  when  cooled.  The  volcano  is 
seventy  miles  from  that  of  Jorullo,  which  suddenly  rose  from 
the  earth  on  the  night  of  Sept.  29,  1759,  amid  extraordinary 
convulsions  of  Nature  ;  thousands  of  acres  of  valuable  land 
having  been  devastated,  and  a  river  swallowed  up. 

This  narrow  strip,  extending  from  sea  to  sea,  has  always  been 
interesting  to  the  student  who  is  content  to  study  Nature's  opera- 
tions, instead  of  striving  to  invent  new  theories  about  them.  It 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  201 

is  well  known  that  a  connection  exists  between  the  volcanoes  I 
have  mentioned  and  those  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  extending 
as  far  east  as  that  of  Tuxtla.  During  the  past  century,  it  has 
heen  noticed,  that,  when  any  disturbance  takes  place  in  the  lat- 
ter, a  sympathetic  movement  manifests  itself  along  the  whole 
chain. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  region  are  convinced  of  this ;  and  they 
even  go  so  far  as  to  predict  that  the  shocks  periodically  felt  all 
the  way  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Colima,  from  east  to  west,  transverse- 
ly across  the  continent,  will  result  some  day  in  a  grand  cata- 
clysm, that  will  rend  the  continent  asunder,  so  that  the  waters 
of  the  Atlantic  will  mingle  with  those  of  the  Pacific  through 
the  gap. 

Having  disposed  of  a  large  portion  of  our  cargo  of  fine  silk- 
goods  at  Colima,  we  sailed  up  the  coast  again  to  San  Bias,  where, 
having  made  a  satisfactory  arrangement  with  the  resyuardo,  we 
landed  the  rest  of  our  goods.  McGregor  contracted  with  an 
arriero  for  mules,  and  accompanied  them  to  Tepic,  where  they 
were  stored  temporarily.  This  course  became  necessary  in  con- 
sequence of  our  selling  "  The  Golondrina  "  to  British  parties, 
who  arrived  at  San  Bias  at  the  same  time  with  ourselves. 

Australia  had  been  discovered  about  this  time  to  be  a  land  of 
gold ;  and  thither  these  parties  were  bound,  having  taken  the 
route  through  Mexico.  The  transfer  was  made  at  San  Jose, 
in  Lower  California ;  and,  returning  thence,  I  rejoined  my 
partner  at  Tepic.  It  was  now  the  last  of  October ;  and  we 
decided  to  carry  our  goods  to  the  great  annual  fair,  held  in 
November  at  the  town  of  San  Juan  de  los  Lagos,  which  is 
resorted  to  by  the  whole  mercantile  community  of  the  republic, 
and  is  the  chief  indigo  mart  of  the  country.  We  had  still  on 
hand  an  attractive  invoice,  chiefly  of  Chinese  goods,  which  were 
scarce  and  high  at  that  time,  although  a  drug  in  San  Francisco ; 
and  the  great  fair  presented  a  chance  for  high  prices  not  to  be 
missed. 


202  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

A  long  train  of  heavily-laden  mules  accordingly  issued  early 
one  morning  from  the  city  of  Tepic ;  and  in  its  rear  might  be 
seen  a  score  or  more  of  well-armed  Americans  and  Europeans, 
amongst  whom,  mounted  on  prancing  and  curvetting  steeds, 
gayly  caparisoned  in  Mexican  fashion,  rode  Sandy  McGregor 
and  the  reader's  humble  servant.  Passing  through  Istlan, 
Madalena,  and  Plan  de  Barrancas,  we  arrived  on  the  second 
day  at  Guadalajara.  From  this  gay  city,  the  second  in  impor- 
tance of  the  republic,  and  capital  of  the  State  of  Jalisco,  my 
partner  pushed  on  towards  San  Juan,  while  I  remained  for  a  few 
days  to  attend  to  some  business.  Having  finished  this,  I  fol- 
lowed him  in  company  with  a  Prussian  gentleman  and  his 
servant.  We  had  arrived  in  sight  of  the  lofty  towers  of  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  John,  the  loftiest  on  the  American  continent, 
when  in  the  early  morning  we  suddenly  became  aware  that 
farther  progress  was  prevented  by  a  barricade  across  the  road, 
made  of  a  cart  and  some  other  obstructions.  We  were,  then, 
in  presence  of  the  much-talked-of  salteadores  (foot-pads),  who 
infest  the  roads  to  intercept  those  bound  to  the  fair,  and  make 
them  pay  tribute. 

The  Prussian  was  an  old  cavalry  soldier ;  and  drawing  his 
sabre,  and  shouting  a  Spanish  ejaculation  I  dare  not  repeat,  he 
spurred  his  horse  toward  the  obstacle  in  front ;  and  I  had  no 
option  but  to  follow  him.  We  easily  leaped  the  tongue  of  the 
cart,  and  were  in  safety  on  the  other  side  of  the  barrier ;  but, 
in  our  ardor,  we  had  forgotten  our  valet,  who  followed  us  with 
our  valises  on  a  sumpter  mule,  and  who  was  immediately  seized 
by  the  robbers.  They  soon  "  went  through "  our  luggage  ; 
but  finding  little  of  value,  as  our  money  was  secured  on  our 
persons,  they  shouted  to  us  that  they  intended  to  kill  our  mozo 
unless  a  handsome  ransom  were  instantly  forthcoming.  After 
a  long  palaver  with  the  rascals,  —  who,  no  doubt,  were  rancheros 
of  the  neighborhood,  —  they  were  appeased  by  the  payment 
of  a  considerable  sum;  and  poor  Eusebio  was  permitted  to 
join  us. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  203 

We  found  San  Juan  crowded  to  repletion ;  while  the  sur- 
rounding hillsides  were  covered  with  tents  and  jacals  (huts 
made  of  matting  and  small  sticks),  and  seemed  a  populous 
suburb.  With  characteristic  foresight,  my  partner  had  con- 
structed a  temporary  lodging  of  this  kind,  in  which  our  goods 
were  stored;  and,  in  addition,  he  had  found  room  enough  to 
shelter  the  family  of  the  keeper  of  the  meson  (Mexican  tavern), 
who  had  turned  out  of  their  house  to  accommodate  lodgers. 

This  was  a  respectable  and  honest  family ;  and,  as  they 
became  interesting  in  connection  with  subsequent  events,  I 
may  be  pardoned  for  naming  them  particularly.  They  were 
Nicolas  Herrera,  his  wife  Francisca,  their  son  Martin,  and 
their  niece  Catalina  Vargas. 

The  morning  after  my  arrival  I  walked  forth  to  see  the  fair, 
and  was  well  repaid  for  the  trouble.  A  vast  amount  of  rich 
goods  from  every  part  of  the  world  was  attractively  displayed ; 
and  there  was  a  complete  museum  of  Mexican  manufactures, 
amongst  which  I  admired  most  the  magnificent  saddlery. 
Trade  seemed  very  lively ;  and  McGregor  informed  me  that 
the  fair  would  eclipse  any  of  its  predecessors  for  several  years, 
and  that  the  population  of  San  Juan,  ordinarily  but  five  thou- 
sand, was  augmented  to  near  two  hundred  thousand.  As  the 
mercantile  transactions  were  exclusively  carried  on  by  my 
partner,  I  had  little  to  do  save  to  amuse  myself  with  the  novel 
sights  of  the  great  fair,  of  which  I  wearied  in  about  a  week; 
and,  to  pass  the  time,  cultivated  the  society  of  the  Herreras. 
One  da}r,  when  sitting  smoking  with  the  head  of  the  family, 
his  hostler,  an  idiot  named  Pancho,  passed  by ;  and  I  made 
some  inquiries  concerning  him.  He  informed  me,  that,  some 
twenty  years  before,  a  poor  family  from  the  State  of  Guerrero 
had  received  his  hospitality  at  the  meson  ;  and,  on  the  morning 
after  their  departure,  an  infant  was  discovered  lying  upon  the 
litter  of  the  stable,  in  which  their  beasts  had  been  kept.  The 
wayfarers  were  of  a  despised  race,  the  pintos,  or  spotted 


204  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

people  of  that  State,  who  somewhat  resemble  the  lepers  of 
old,  or  the  pariahs  of  the  East.  In  Christian  charity,  the 
worthy  couple  had  the  child  baptized ;  and  Dona  Francisca 
gave  him  her  name  on  the  occasion.  (Pancho  is  the  nickname 
of  Francisco.)  The  infant  was  put  to  nurse,  and,  when  old 
enough,  ran  about  the  great  court  of  the  meson  amongst  the 
arrieros  and  their  mules  until  he  was  of  sufficient  stature  and 
strength  to  work,  when  he  became  a  useful  servant  in  the  inn. 
He  was  a  robust  youth,  with  a  rough  shock  of  reddish  hair, 
dull,  stupid  face,  and  lack-lustre  eyes,  the  frightfully  mottled 
skin  of  his  race,  a  rounded  back,  and  shambling  gait.  Pass- 
ing for  an  idiot,  he  only  answered  questions  by  awkward  ges- 
tures ;  but  could  imperfectly  articulate  a  few  words  when  he 
chose  to  do  so.  He  seemed  to  be  affected  by  neither  kindness 
nor  harshness,  and  nearly  insensible  to  both. 

After  a  week  or  two,  I  observed  that  there  was  one  object 
in  the  world  that  had  made  some  impression  on  his  obtuse 
intellect.  This  was  the  niece  Catalina,  or  Chapita  as  she  was 
usually  called,  an  orphan,  who  had  been  adopted  by  the  Iler- 
reras  as  their  daughter.  Whenever  she  approached,  Pancho, 
involuntarily  as  it  seemed,  expressed  the  pleasure  he  felt  in 
seeing  her  by  pantomimic  gestures.  Chapita,  who  was  very 
beautiful,  fascinated  others  besides  the  poor  stable-boy  ;  but 
the  admiration  of  those  was  deepened  by  a  sentiment  of  respect 
for  her  discretion  ;  and  I  once  heard  one  of  her  countrymen, 
accustomed  to  think  lightly  of  female  virtue,  say  of  her,  in  his 
figurative  language,  "  that  she  sowed  at  every  step  seeds  of 
love  which  were  destined  never  to  germinate."  Martin,  the 
son  of  the  house,  had  arrived  to  attend  the  fair  fronl  the 
presidio  of  Altar  in  Sonora,  where  he  owned  a  large  estate 
which  his  father  had  given  him. 

The  young  hacepdado,  a  tall,  slender  youth  of  fine  personal 
appearance,  set  off  by  his  handsome  national  dress,  was  an 
accomplished  cavalier,  and  an  adept  in  the  exercises  of  the 
campo  and  the  mesta. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  205 

I  could  not  help  musing  on  the  miserable  destiny  of  poor 
Pancho  whenever  I  saw  him  pass,  bereft  as  he  was  of  every 
tiling  that  solaces  the  lives  of  other  men  on  life's  journey. 
Poor  devil !  what  had  he  to  hope  or  live  for  ?  He  existed 
merely  by  that  instinct  of  self-preservation  with  which  Prov- 
i  lence  has  endowed  animals,  and  even  the  vegetable  king- 
dom ;  and  yet  in  the  breast  of  this  wretched  idiot  a  warm 
and  delightful  passion  had  grown  up,  which  cast  a  vivid  light 
over  his  vacant  intellect  and  hopeless  life. 

The  fair  of  San  Juan  drew  to  a  close  ;  the  extempore  habi- 
tations vanished  from  its  suburbs  ;  the  busy  crowd  dissolved  ; 
and  the  roads  were  filled  with  travellers  returning  to  their 
several  homes,  leaving  the  little  town  to  its  usual  stagnation. 
We  had  disposed  satisfactorily  of  our  merchandise,  and  shared 
the  profits ;  and  as  McGregor  was  desirous  of  visiting  the 
mining  country  near  the  city  of  Chihuahua,  in  which  he  had 
important  interests,  I  resolved  to  accompany  him. 

It  would  take  too  much  space  to  give  in  detail  the  story  of 
our  journey  northwards :  so  I  will  merely  say  that  our  route 
was  by  the  way  of  Parras  and  Mapimi.  The  season  was 
propitious ;  and  our  road  lay  through  grand  and  striking 
scenery,  but  for  a  part  of  the  way  was  infested  by  hostile 
Indians,  for  whom  we  were  compelled  to  keep  a  sharp  look- 
out. 

At  length,  after  twenty  days  of  dust,  heat,  and  drought, 
as  many  nights  among  fleas  and  other  vermin ;  after  many 
weary  leagues  ridden  with  our  hands  literally  upon  our 
weapons,  and  eyes  weary  with  watching ;  after  traversing  moun- 
tain-passes, fit  ambuscades  for  lurking  savages,  and  lined  with 
crosses,  which  indicated  the  fate  of  unfortunate  travellers ; 
after  starving  for  hours,  and  arriving  at  haciendas  only  to  find 
them  deserted,  —  we  at  last  came  in  sight  of  the  steeples  of 
the  Cathedral  of  Chihuahua. 

18 


XXVI. 

Bolson  de  Mapimi,  and  that  part  of  the  State  of 
_I_  Coahuila  which  contains  the  abandoned  mines  of  Santa 
Rosa,  constitute  what  is  probably  the  richest  silver-mining 
region  in  the  whole  world.  All  the  mines  of  this  section  of 
country  have  been  worked  for  many  years,  and  immense 
treasures  have  been  taken  from  them :  still  it  remains  almost 
a  terra  incognita.  This  is  because  the  whole  district  is  over- 
run by  the  Apaches.  The  mines  are  either  altogether  aban- 
doned, or  are  worked  only  spasmodically  by  companies  with 
insufficient  capital  to  organize  mining  on  a  scale  large  enough 
to  insure  a  certain  return  for  their  investment  within  a 
reasonable  time. 

But  it  will  be  asked,  "  Why  does  not  the  required  capital  flow 
in  this  direction  ?  "  I  answer,  that  I  have  heard  every  reason 
except  the  true  one  given  among  these  people,  who  do  not 
like  to  hear  unpalatable  truths  any  more  than  others.  The 
true  reason  is,  that  the  political  condition  of  the  nation  is  so 
bad,  that  no  confidence  can  be  felt  in  the  security  of  an  in- 
vestment in  any  one  thing  in  this  country  ;  and  until  another 
and  stronger  race  controls  the  government,  and  gives  protec- 
tion to  capital,  and  encouragement  to  enterprise,  the  riches  of 
the  country  will  remain  undeveloped.  The  miserable  popula- 
tion of  this  district  dig  out  silver  omy  for  their  present  wants, 
or  to  supply  that  craving  after  fortune  which  appears  to  enter 
into  the  nature  of  every  Mexican.  They  take  enough  silver 
206 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  207 

out  of  Nature's  strong  box  to  serve  for  a  few  nights'  gaming ; 
and,  when  that  is  lost,  return  to  get  a  little  more. 

Our  first  call  upon  the  argentiferous  deposits  was  made 
at  Santa  Eulalia,  about  thirteen  miles  from  Chihuahua,  which 
are  the  creme  de  la  creme  of  all  the  mines  of  this  richest  dis- 
trict in  Mexico,  the  very  mountains  being  of  silver.  The 
haciendas  of  San  Jose",  Santa  Rita,  and  La  Parcionera,  near 
the  Real  of  Santa  Eulalia,  are  worked  in  the  rudest  manner. 
Only  the  soft  clay  "  pockets  "  of  the  galleries  of  these  mines 
are  worked,  as  the  miners  can  scoop  out  the  rich  ore  with  — 
tell  it  not  at  the  Ecole  des  Mines  or  at  Freyburg  —  horn- 
spoons  ;  and  the  limestone,  which  is  not  difficult  of  reduction, 
will  yield  from  forty  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  ton. 
The  deeper  workings  prove  that  the  richest  ores  have  not  yet 
been  reached.  In  the  presence  of  all  this  great  wealth,  need- 
ing intelligence  and  capital  to  bring  it  to  the  surface,  the 
native  population  are  wretchedly  impoverished,  and  merely 
idle  away  the  time  between  the  cradle  and  the  grave,  craving 
nothing  but  their  bare  sustenance,  and  occasional  means  of 
diversion  of  the  most  pitiful  sort. 

The  prudent  capitalists,  even  those  reared  in  the  country, 
never  dream  of  investing  their  funds  in  mining  operations, 
for  the  reasons  I  have  just  stated ;  and  having  visited  the 
region,  and  examined  its  resources,  I  felt  less  inclined  than  ever 
before  to  enter  into  a  speculation  requiring,  to  protect  explora- 
tions, many  millions  of  associated  capital,  and  a  stable  form 
of  government  such  as  is  not  to  be  had  in  Mexico. 

While  in  this  wild  region,  I  halted  for  a  day  at  a  solitary 
hacienda,  which,  indeed,  was  like  all  of  them, — a  kind  of  walled 
and  fortified  dwelling,  —  to  wait  for  my  companion,  who  had 
gone  to  a  mine  not  far  off.  The  intendente  ("land  steward") 
of  this  place  informed  me  that  in  a  laguna  not  far  away  were 
plenty  of  wild  ducks  and  geese ;  and  I  resolved  to  try  to  make 
a  bag  of  some  of  them. 


208  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

He  said  it  was  well ;  but  that  I  must  keep  a  sharp  look-out 
for  Indians,  whose  war-parties  sometimes  raided  in  that  part 
of  the  country.  I  had  heard  so  much  talk  of  Indians  since 
leaving  San  Juan,  that  I  had  become  quite  incredulous  about 
them  :  so  I  strolled  forth  afoot  with  my  gun,  and  soon  reached 
the  laguna.  While  poking  about  in  the  rushes  to  get  a  shot 
at  some  ducks,  I  observed  in  the  soft  mud  the  hoof-marks  of 
horses,  ridden  by  somebody,  as  was  evident  by  the  order  in 
which  they  followed  each  other  in  two  parallel  lines.  I  hap- 
pened to  know  that  the  horses  of  the  hacienda  were  in 
another  direction,  guarded  in  a  valley ;  and,  calling  to  mind 
the  warning  of  the  old  intendente,  I  concluded  not  to  awake 
the  echoes  just  then  with  my  gun,  but  to  beat  a  hasty  retreat. 

It  was  two  or  three  miles  to  the  hacienda,  over  an  arid 
plain,  dotted  here  and  there  with  clumps  of  chaparral ;  and, 
luckily  for  me,  the  soil  was  what  is  called  in  Mexico  a  pedral, 
covered  with  stones  as  hard  as  flint,  and  leaving  no  trail  from 
horse  or  man.  A  smart  walk  brought  me  about  a  mile  from 
where  I  had  seen  the  hoof-rnarks;  and  although  I  kept  on, 
la  barbe  sur  Vepaule,  I  was  congratulating  myself  that  I 
should  soon  reach  a  place  of  security,  when  I  heard  in  my 
rear  the  sound  of  hoofs  echoing  from  the  flinty  ground. 
Instantly,  regardless  of  scratches,  I  took  cover  in  a  thick 
clump  of  bushes ;  having  previously  slipped  a  buckshot  car- 
tridge into  each  barrel  of  my  gun,  cocked  it,  and  silently 
awaited  events.  Scarcely  had  I  settled  myself  in  my  fortress 
when  the  leader  of  an  Apache  war-party  came  in  sight.* 
Having  no  mercy  to  hope  for  if  found,  I  covered  him  and 
each  succeeding  warrior  in  succession  as  they  passed  in  per- 
fect silence,  the  ground  hardly  reporting  the  tread  of  their 
unshodden  horses.  Each  brave  rode  a  travelling  palfrey, 
and  led  in  a  leash  by  his  side  his  gayly-bedecked  war-horse. 
All  were  perfectly  naked  except  the  breech-clout,  but  pro- 
fusely painted  in  the  Devil's  colors,  —  red  and  black.  They 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  209 

were  armed  alike  with  lances,  the  blades  of  which  had  once 
been  Toledo  swords,  decorated  with  feathers  like  the  round 
shields  they  bore,  and  bows  and  arrows.  They  sat  straight 
and  motionless  on  their  horses,  like  spectres ;  the  only  evidence 
of  animation  in  them  being  their  incessantly  rolling  eye-balls, 
which  keenly  examined  every  object  along  their  route.  I 
held  my  breath  as  the  ghost-like  band  passed  me  within  their 
spear's  length  in  Indian  file ;  and,  though  they  numbered  only 
eleven  warriors,  it  seemed  to  me  as  if  an  army  was  going  by. 

All  the  stories  about  the  unerring  sagacity  of  these  savages 
came  at  once  into  my  mind;  and  I  distinctly  recollect  how  I 
was  disturbed  by  a  solitary  vulture  that  hovered  above  me> 
from  whose  movements  I  feared  some  of  the  rascals  would  be 
led  to  suspect  my  presence.  So  fixed  was  my  attention,  that 
I  could  afterwards  have  told  every  minute  peculiarity  that  dis- 
tinguished one  individual  of  this  war-party  from  another :  and 
I  could  swear  that  the  foremost  Indian  wore  a  single  eagle's 
feather  in  his  scalp-lock,  while  each  of  the  rest  had  three ; 
why,  I  know  not. 

I  also  know  that  the  war-horse  of  the  last  youthful  brave 
was  an  elegant  and  graceful  pinto,  the  possession  of  which  I 
coveted  as  soon  as  I  saw  him. 

I  was  in  no  hurry- to  resume  my  route  after  the  Indians 
had  passed ;  nor  did  I  relax  my  vigilance  until  I  had  arrived 
at  the  gates  of  the  hacienda,  which  were  immediately  closed 
after  I  had  made  my  report,  and  all  the  garrison — six  men 
and  nine  women  with  four  babies  —  enclosed  in  the  patio. 
The  old  intendente  addressed  himself  immediately  to  his  de- 
fences :  but  the  mysterious  war-party  never  appeared ;  and,  as 
they  came  like  shadows,  so  they  departed. 

The  next  day  the  vaqueros  found  the  remains  of  a  bullock, 
on  which  the  savages  had  supped,  a  league  or  two  off;  and 
we  heard  that  a  man  had  been  killed,  some  houses  robbed,  and 
a  woman  carried  off  from  a  hacienda,  about  thirty  miles  from 

18* 


210  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

our  refuge,  by  a  party  answering  in  description  to  the  one  I 
had  seen. 

This  is  one  of  the  beauties  of  life  in  these  northern  districts 
for  which  I  have  little  admiration ;  and  these  raids  of  the 
Apaches  affect  property  to  such  a  degree,  that  the  extensive 
and  fertile  grazing  estate  of  which  I  have  spoken  could  have 
been  purchased  for  less  than  a  quarter  part  of  the  value  of  the 
horses  and  cattle  roaming  over  the  eight  sitios  de  gana  do 
mayor  (square  leagues,  or  about  thirty  thousand  acres). 

These  war-parties,  I  was  told,  are  undertaken  for  plunder, 
murder,  rape,  and  sometimes  abduction,  in  pursuance  of  a  vow, 
or  in  performance  of  a  penance  imposed  by  their  chief. 

While  on  a  war-party,  the  warriors  must  eat  but  one  meal  a 
day,  and  are  allowed  but  four  hours  of  sleep  in  the  twenty- 
four.  They  are  not  permitted  to  converse  with  each  other,  and 
are  obliged  to  perform  certain  diabolical  rites.  They  must  im- 
plicitly obey  the  orders  of  the  warrior  designated  to  command 
them,  who  may  put  them  to  death  if  he  pleases.  As  is  well 
known,  their  incursions  are  carried  far  into  Mexico,  spreading 
terror  everywhere ;  for  they  are  conducted  with  remorseless 
cruelty.  I  had  now  seen  one  of  these  famous  war-parties,  but 
had  no  desire  to  repeat  the  sight ;  although  I  drew  an  instruc- 
tive conclusion  from  this,  as  from  all  other  of  the  experiences  of 
life,  —  that  the  Apaches  and  other  wild  Indians  were  in  the 
possession  and  practice  of  some  sound  military  principles,  not 
confined,  as  I  had  fondly  imagined,  to  civilized  society,  and 
as  old  as  those  Greeks  and  Romans  of  whose  existence  they 
had  never  heard. 

At  Chihuahua,  McGregor  and  myself  separated,  —  he  to 
return  to  the  United  States  by  the  way  of  Texas,  while  I  took 
the  road  to  San  Juan  de  los  Lagos.  I  parted  from  him  with 
regret,  and  the  hope  of  again  seeing  him  :  for  our  connection 
had  been  a  pleasant  one  ;  and  through  all  its  vicissitudes  I  had 
ever  found  him  honest  and  loyal,  while  his  business  tact  and 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  211 

natural  talents  had  successfully  carried  us  through  difficulties 
that  might  otherwise  have  occasioned  failure.  In  our  jour- 
neys by  land,  the  place  of  leader  had  always  been  conceded 
to  him,  experienced  as  he  was  in  frontier-life ;  and  I  may  say, 
that,  more  than  once,  the  lives  and  fortunes  of  his  associates 
were  saved  by  his  cool  courage  and  unerring  judgment.  My 
wish  to  meet  again  was  never  realized ;  for,  two  years  after 
our  separation,  he  met  his  death  at  the  hand  of  an  assassin 
in  New  Mexico. 

I  shrink  from  recording  the  details  of  his  murder ;  for  it  was 
perpetrated  in  a  cowardly  manner  by  one  who  would  never 
have  dared  to  meet  him  face  to  face,  and  the  miscreant  went 
scathless  from  the  scene.  It  was  one  of  those  crimes  that  go 
unwhipt  of  justice  in  frontier  society,  to  its  eternal  disgrace. 

My  first  halt  was  at  the  city  of  Durango,  where  I  staid  a 
shprt  time,  awaiting  a  party,  who,  like  myself,  were  bound 
southward.  In  the  sierra,  not  far  from  this  city,  lives  a  singu- 
lar Indian  community,  who  still  reject  the  teachings  of  Chris- 
tianity, adhering  to  the  paganism  of  their  barbarous  ancestors. 
They  hold  themselves  proudly  aloof  from  familiar  social  inter- 
course and  intermarriage,  not  only  with  those  of  Spanish  or 
mixed  descent,  but  also  with  those  of  their  own  race  who  have 
adopted  the  religion  and  manners  of  their  conquerors,  and  who 
constitute  the  bulk  of  the  Mexican  proletarians.  These  inde- 
pendent communities  are  found  in  other  parts  of  Mexico,  and 
are  similar  in  customs  and  manners.  Representatives  of  them 
may  sometimes  be  seen  in  the  streets  of  the  towns,  distinguished 
by  their  long  plaited  hair,  and  the  Aztec  features  seen  in  the 
statuary  and  sculpture  of  that  ancient  people.  They  make 
baskets  and  other  articles  for  sale,  and  are  noted  for  the  manu- 
facture of  a  very  superior  kind  of  gayly  striped  woollen  blankets, 
so  finely  woven  that  they  hold  water.  In  the  secluded  village 
of  which  I  have  spoken,  I  saw  an  exhibition  of  natural  magic 
which  would  have  been  a  creditable  performance  at  any  seance 


212  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

of  the  most  celebrated  clairvoyants,  or  spiritists,  of  our  high 
civilization.  Spirits  were  summoned  from  the  vasty  deep ;  and, 
unlike  Hotspur's,  they  came,  communed  orally  with  us,  and 
did  other  tricks  identical  with  those  practised  by  the  charla- 
tans of  our  own  spiritual  circles.  At  one  of  these  seances, 
held  in  a  mud  hovel,  the  spirit  of  an  aged  chief  communicated 
to  the  assembly  some  facts  about  my  life,  of  which  I  am  cer- 
tain no  person  present  could  have  been  aware,  and  gave  other 
proofs  of  supernatural  power,  which  must  have  convinced  me, 
had  I  not  previously  possessed  convictions  that  could  not  be 
shaken. 

Returning  to  Durango,  I  related  what  I  had  seen  to  an 
intelligent  countryman  settled  there  as  a  physician.  He 
replied  that  the  Indians  of  the  sierra  were  commonly  believed 
by  the  people  of  the  country  to  be  not  only  idolaters,  but 
sorcerers ;  and  he  related  the  following  tale  by  way  of  illus- 
tration :  — 


XXVII. 

OME  years  since,  in  one  of  those  revolutions  which 
so  often  disturb  this  unhappy  country,  shortly  after 
my  arrival  here,  this  city  was  occupied  by  a  general  of 
some  notoriety,  whose  wars  had  been  only  of  a  partisan  and 
predatory  character.  He  was  of  a  cruel  and  vindictive  dis- 
position, like  most  of  his  type,  and  tyrannical  over  all  who 
fell  under  his  power.  For  some  fancied  peccadillo,  this  person 
imprisoned  a  small  party  of  the  Sierra  Indians  who  came  into 
the  town  on  a  bartering  expedition,  among  whom  were  a 
chief  and  his  daughter.  This  chief  was  of  the  sacerdotal 
caste,  who  are  believed  to  possess  supernatural  gifts  ;  and  the 
daughter  was  a  girl  of  remarkable  intelligence  and  beauty. 

"Don  Alvaro  Lopez,  although  an  old  man,  had  grown  gray 
in  a  career  of  war  and  rapine,  which  he  had  begun  as  a 
soldier  during  the  war  of  revolution  which  separated  Mexico 
from  Spain ;  and  since,  when  there  was  a  lack  of  employ- 
ment in  an  organized  force,  had  been  a  brigand.  He  was 
licentious  too ;  and,  seeing  the  beauty  of  the  girl,  resolved  to 
possess  her;  but,  in  accomplishing  his  wicked  purpose,  slew 
the  aged  chief,  her  father.  A  successful  rival  soon  after 
supplanted  Lopez,  who  was  driven  from  the  city,  escaping 
with  a  small  band  of  his  followers,  who  not  long  after  deserted 
him. 

"  His  successor,  no  longer  fearing  him,  knowing  that  he  had 
lost  his  power  and  influence,  and  feeling  himself  secure  from 

213 


214  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

further  interference,  permitted  Lopez  to  return  to  his  home  in 
this  city,  and  reside  under  surveillance.  Shortly  after,  Don 
Alvaro  fell  sick;  and  I  was  summoned  to  attend  him. 

"Meanwhile  the  girl  —  Bartola  as  she  was  called,  though 
that  was  not  her  real  name  —  remained  in  Durango,  as  she 
had  no  other  refuge ;  for  her  kinsfolk  would  have  destroyed 
her,  despoiled  of  her  chastity.  She  was  absorbed  in  grief  for 
the  death  of  her  father,  and  her  own  misfortunes,  and  lived 
upon  the  charity  of  those  who  pitied  her  sorrows;  such  hap- 
pily being  always  found  among  us.  She  occupied  a  poorjacal 
in  the  suburbs,  and  appeared  to  have  no  other  occupation  than 
to  brood  over  her  misery. 

"  She  would  occasionally  meet  Don  Alvaro  in  the  city,  and 
at  such  times  would  be  heard  to  mutter  some  sounds  in  her  dia- 
lect that  seemed  like  denunciations,  as  she  bent  fierce  glances 
upon  him  from  under  her  tattered  reboso.  As  to  my  patient, 
his  case  baffled  my  skill,  and  defied  my  remedies.  His  dis- 
order appeared  to  be  of  a  nervous  character,  accompanied  with 
chills  of  a  peculiar  kind.  Having  been  summoned  to  a 
neighboring  hacienda  to  attend  another  patient,  I  was  absent 
for  several  weeks ;  and,  when  I  returned,  I  found  Don  Alvaro 
looking  ten  years  older  than  when  I  had  seen  him  last,  wan, 
and  with  that  peculiarly  ashen-gray  hue  of  feature  which 
denotes  mortal  sickness ;  although  his  physical  strength 
nominally  herculean,  was  not  much  impaired. 

" '  It  seems  to  me,  doctor,'  said  he,  '  that,  when  my  parox- 
ysms come  on,  I  am  seized  with  emotions  of  fear  and  tre- 
mors, which  I  confess  I  never  before  in  my  life  experienced. 
I  cannot  say  there  is  any  reason  for  this  sentiment,  that  I  am 
aware  of;  but,  on  these  occasions,  another  personality  appears 
to  have  usurped  my  own,  and  I  am  no  longer  myself.  I 
suffer  without  apparent  cause :  my  faculties  are  on  the 
stretch  ;  but  I  cannot  perceive  any  tangible  thing  to  combat. 
Then  come  sharp  pains,  each  distinct  from  the  other,  repeated 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  215 

successively  as  if  by  a  sharp  weapon.  These  seem  to  pierce 
my  heart  and  the  very  marrow  of  my  hones  with  sudden 
pricks  or  pangs,  accompanied  by  a  benumbing  sensation,  and 
then  gradually  subside,  leaving  me  in  a  state  of  extreme 
weakness.  By  a  presentiment  I  cannot  describe  to  you,  I  can 
tell  the  approach  of  these  attacks,  which  soon  arrive,  and  I 
become  aware  of  a  persisting,  implacable  assault,  as  it  were, 
upon  my  person :  my  reason  gives  way ;  and  I  fall  a  prey  to 
terror  and  apprehension.  "  I  am  sure  some  one  hates  me,  and 
is  persecuting  me  by  virtue  of  some  evil  influence,  against 
which  I  am  powerless  to  defend  myself.  Ah,  doctor,'  cried 
the  unhappy  man  just  then,  '  it  is  coming !  Great  God!  what 
do  I  suffer  ! ' 

"Thfe  poor  devil  at  this  juncture  writhed  horribly  in  a 
fearful  nervous  paroxysm,  which  I  tried  in  vain  to  assuage. 

"  '  General,'  said  I  after  the  crisis  had  passed,  '  know  you 
of  any  bitter  enemy  who  has  reason  to  persecute  you ;  any 
one  whom  you  may  have  injured,  and  who  may  wish  for 
revenge;  any  one  you  have  slain?  ' 

" '  Oh  ! '  returned  Don  Alvaro,  ' "  los  muertos  son  muy  muer- 
tos  " '  (" The  dead  are  dead  indeed  ").  'No :  the  dead  do  not 
torment  me.  My  enemy  lives;  and  she  will  kill  me  yet.  It  is 
that  Indian  girl  whose  father  I  killed :  I  see  her  at  the  very 
moment  I  suffer,  —  see  her  distinctly,  with  her  clinched  fist 
extended  toward  me,  while  she  stands  in  an  attitude  and  with 
a  gesture  of  hatred,  directing  at  my  very  heart  the  unseen 
arrows  of  her  vengeance.' 

"After  some  further  conversation,  I  rose  and  left  the 
house.  The  case  is  unique  in  my  practice ;  which,  however, 
does  not  prove  that  such  cases  do  not  sometimes  exist,  and 
are  caused,  perhaps,  by  electric  or  magnetic  influences  directed 
against  the  patient.  But  I  am  stoutly  opposed  to  empiri- 
cism ;  and  the  whole  case  is  enveloped  in  such  deep  mystery, 
that  I  forbear  giving  a  positive  opinion,  from  —  I  shame  not 


216  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

to  say  it  —  sheer  ignorance  as  to  whether  the  patient  was 
afflicted  by  remorse  for  his  crimes,  or  the  determined  hatred 
of  some  enemy.  I  can  give  no  explanation  ;  but  relate  the 
facts  of  the  case,  leaving  you  to  draw  your  own  inferences. 

"After  leaving  the  house  of  Don  Alvaro,  I  walked  mus- 
ingly towards  the  suburbs,  and  unwittingly  took  the  direction 
of  Bartola's  lowly  abode.  Approaching  it,  I  saw  a  light 
burning  in  the  hovel;  and,  it  being  dark,  my  presence  was 
undiscovered.  I  resolved  to  ascertain  what  I  could  from  the 
girl  herself,  and  whether  there  was  any  ground  for  believing 
that  the  annoyance  proceeded  from  her,  as  asserted  by  Don 
Alvaro.  I  went  to  the  one  window,  and  looked  in.  Bartola 
was  on  her  knees  before  a  rude  stool,  the  only  piece  of  furni- 
ture besides  the  pallet  which  the  hut  contained;  propped 
upon  which  was  a  rough  statuette  of  clay  a  few  inches  long, 
in  the  lineaments  of  which  might  be  traced  a  grotesque 
resemblance  to  the  marked  features  of  Don  Alvaro  Lopez. 
Had  I  any  doubt  as  to  the  actual  existence  of  this  resem- 
blance, it  would  have  been  dispelled  by  the  poor  imitation  of 
a  uniform  that  clothed  the  figure,  bearing  the  insignia  of  the 
general's  rank.  In  the  region  of  the  heart  of  the  statuette  a 
long  needle  was  fixed.  Bartola  was  so  intent  upon  what  she 
was  doing,  that  she  did  not  see  or  hear  me,  and  sat  Indian- 
fashion  on  her  heels,  naked  but  for  her  petticoat  and  the 
reboso  around  her  head,  her  hair  dishevelled,  and  her  features 
pinched  and  haggard ;  while  the  perspiration  rolled  in  drops 
from  her  face  and  shoulders. 

"She  rocked  herself  to  and  fro,"  with  eyes  steadily  fixed 
upon  the  figure;  never  once  withdrawing  them  while  repeat- 
ing some  inarticulate  syllables  in  a  low  tone,  marvellously 
like  an  incantation.  Sometimes  she  raised  herself  erect,  and 
retreated  a  step  or  two ;  then  darted  towards  the  figure, 
regarding  it  with  an  intense  gaze,  and  sometimes  menacing  it 
with  outstretched  arm  and  clinched  hand.  At  last  she  seized 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  217 

the  needle,  and  stabbed  the  image :  at  the  same  moment  her 
limbs  seemed  to  stiffen,  and  she  fell  backwards,  with  a  long- 
drawn  sigh,  upon  the  floor. 

"  There  was  something  terrible  in  the  scene ;  and  I  felt  rooted 
to  the  spot.  As  she  fell,  I  recovered  my  equanimity ;  and, 
pushing  against  the  door  of  the  miserable  dwelling,  it 
yielded,  and  I  entered  its  only  room.  I  raised  the  prostrate 
form  of  the  girl,  who  was  too  exhausted  to  resist,  and  placed 
her  upon  the  poor  bed ;  applied  a  restorative  to  her  nostrils ; 
and  in  a  few  moments  she  opened  her  eyes,  and  gazed  at  me. 

" * Bartola,'  said  I,  'you  know  me?'  She  gave  a  sign  of 
recognition.  '  You  are  a  sorceress,  and  practise  the  black- 
art  !  You  especially  direct  your  evil  practices  against  the  life 
of  Don  Alvaro  Lopez.'  She  smiled  triumphantly. 

"  '  I  will  kill  him  ! '  said  she. 

"  '  Take  care ! '  I  said.  '  You  will  have  to  do  with  the 
laws  :  you  will  be  imprisoned  if  you  do  not  stop  your  evil 
practices.' 

" '  That  will  not  stop  them,'  she  said  proudly.  '  Meddle  not 
with  my  vengeance,  and  look  to  yourself ! ' 

"  '  But,  Bartola,  you  will  kill  yourself,  miserable  being  that 
you  are ! ' 

"  She  made  a  gesture  of  indifference.  '  Will  you  cease  your 
criminal  machinations  ? '  —  'No ! '  said  Bartola;  and  resolutely 
turned  her  face  to  the  wall,  vouchsafing  me  not  another  word. 

"  Finding  her  obdurate,  I  retired,  taking  with  me  the  clay 
figure,  which  I  destroyed.  The  next  morning  I  visited  my 
patient,  finding  him  easy  for  the  moment,  and  related  as  much 
of  my  interview  as  was  prudent  to  tell  him.  '  Ah,  doctor ! ' 
said  he,  '  I  suffered  last  evening  more  than  ever.  It  seemed 
to  me  as  if  I  was  repeatedly  stabbed  by  that  Indian  witch. 
What  infernal  power  has  enabled  her  to  torment  me  so  ? '  I 
told  him  I  would  do  my  best  to  deliver  him  from  her,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  the  military  governor.  I  stated  the  case  of  the  old 
19 


218  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

sinner,  and  received  permission  to  send  the  Indian  girl,  upon 
a  certificate  of  insanity,  to  a  village  twenty  leagues  from  here. 
I  thought,  that,  if  the  fatal  influence  she  exerted  was  mag- 
netic, it  would  be  stopped,  or  at  least  weakened,  hy  her  re- 
moval to  a  distance ;  and,  wishing  to  act  conscientiously 
towards  both  her  and  my  patient,  I  resolved  to  try  this  solu- 
tion of  the  case.  Thought  I,  'The  unfortunate  girl  is  not 
absolutely  mad ;  but  she  has  the  fatal  belief  that  she  possesses 
the  power  of  injuring  him ;  and  it  is  possible  that  her  hallu- 
cination may  be  dangerous  to  herself  as  well  as  to  him.' 

"  Bartola  was  accordingly  removed,  and  placed  in  charge  of 
a  person  selected  for  the  purpose ;  and  for  a  few  days  the  old 
reprobate  experienced  a  sensible  relief  from  his  sufferings.  In 
less  than  a  week,  however,  the  nervous  agitation  returned,  and 
wild  delirium  was  exhibited  during  the  paroxysms ;  and  I  was 
again  called  in.  At  the  same  time  came  a  messenger  from  the 
person  having  charge  of  Bartola,  who  informed  me  that  the 
nervous  crises  which  had  ceased  with  her  departure  hence  had 
again  set  in,  the  attacks  on  her  part  being  more  energetic, 
more  decidedly  hostile,  if  I  may  say  so,  than  before.  Never- 
theless, I  was  told,  each  time  they  occurred,  they  left  her 
much  weaker.  '  So,'  thought  I,  '  I  will  immediately  see  my 
patient,  and  counsel  him  to  resist  courageously  and  with  all 
his  force :  perhaps  the  one  who  remains  physically  the  stronger 
will  be  the  victor.  It  is  a  duel  a  la  mort  between  them.' 

"  I  found  the  old  brigand  with  a  terrified  expression  of  coun- 
tenance, and  nearly  speechless :  he  beat  the  air  with  his  hands, 
as  if  trying  to  parry  a  mortal  thrust;  he  gasped  in  agony,  and 
finally  expired  before  my  eyes  in  less  than  an  hour  after  I 
entered  the  room. 

"  I  returned  home ;  and  on  the  next  morning  the  same  mes- 
senger came  from  the  village  with  the  intelligence  that  Bar- 
tola,  too,  had  passed  away,  after  a  prolonged  crisis,  just  half  an 
Lour,  by  my  computation,  after  the  death  of  Alvaro  Lopez. 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  219 

"  Her  last  words  to  those  around  her  were,  in  Spanish,  "  Soy 
vengado ! "  ("  I  am  avenged ! ")  It  is  needless  to  say  to  you 
that  science  cannot  explain  this  act  of  mysterious  retribution, 
proceeding  not  from  the  action  of  justice,  according  to  our 
lights,  but  which,  it  is  evident,  is  permitted  by  the  inscrutable 
decree  of  a  higher  than  mortal  power." 


XXVIII. 

IN  less  than  three  months  from  the  time  of  my  departure,  I 
re-entered  the  little  town  of  San  Juan  do  los  Lagos,  and 
rode  directly  to  the  meson  kept  by  the  Herreras. 

The  gate  was  wide  open  :  a  crowd  of  gayly-attired  people  oc- 
cupied the  court;  while  from  within  came  the  tinkling  of  guitars 
and  the  small  Mexican  harp.  The  inn  was  en  fete.  Pancho 
alone,  in  his  ordinary  dress,  came  forth  from  the  stables  with 
his  usual  indifferent  manner  and  shambling  gait  to  take  our 
horses.  "  Ah,  Pancho !  "  said  I,  "  what  is  going  on  ?  Is  it  a 
wedding?"  The  idiot  grinned,  and  answered  me  by  a  for- 
ward butt  of  his  ugly  head.  "And  who  are  the  happy 
couple  ?  Any  of  the  family  ?  "  Second  grin,  and  butt  with  the 
head.  "  Is  it  La  Chapita  ?  "  Third  grin  and  butt. 

This  news  from  the  lugubriously  jolly  mortal  puzzled  me : 
for  I  could  not  see  why  Pancho  should  smile  at  the  idea  of 
Chapita's  marriage,  unless  he  was  to  be  the  bridegroom ;  and 
that  was  too  absurd  an  idea  to  be  entertained  for  an  instant. 

"  Perhaps,"  I  thought,  "  he  rejoices,  in  his  stupid  ignorance, 
because  she  whom  he  loves  is  about  to  be  made  happy ;  which, 
in  a  sensible  person,  would  be  prodigious  self-abnegation  in- 
deed." 

"  Tell  me,  Pancho,  who  is  to  be  the  bridegroom  ? "  The 
half-witted  youth  answered  me  by  pantomimic  gestures  simu- 
lating a  nurse  carrying  an  infant ;  then  bestrode  an  imaginary 
horse,  and  twirled  round  his  shock  pate  an  ideal  lasso  j  after 

220 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  221 

which  performance  he  burst  into  a  convulsive  fit  of  merriment, 
clinging  meanwhile  to  the  cantle  of  my  saddle. 

I  comprehended  at  once  that  Martin,  the  son  of  the  house, 
was  the  bridegroom ;  and  dismounted,  and  retired  to  my  cham- 
ber. A  little  later  I  went  to  the  apartments  of  the  innkeep- 
er's family,  paid  my  respects  to  the  affianced  pair,  and  received 
an  invitation  to  attend  the  wedding  festivities.  Tio  Nicolas 
and  Tia  Francisco  were  supremely  happy  at  the  prospect  of  the 
match  between  their  niece  and  son. 

The  lovely  maid  of  the  inn  was  radiant  in  her  bridal  dress, 
bestowing  tender  glances  upon  Martin  Herrera,  whose  slender 
and  graceful  form  was  displayed  to  great  advantage  in  his 
brand-new  costume  of  a  haciendado,  gorgeous  with  sky-blue 
velvet  facings,  rich  embroidery,  and  dangling  silver  buttons. 

I  will  spare  the  reader  an  account  of  the  excellence  of  the 
cookery  in  Mexican  fashion,  the  jests,  double  entendres,  songs, 
and  other  details  of  the  somewhat  gross  gayety  of  the  fete. 
Every  thing  went  "merry  as  a  marriage-bell,"  the  jollity 
of  the  occasion  ascending  in  crescendo  until  the  end  of  the 
feast  drew  near.  But  at  the  very  moment  when  Tio  Nicolas 
began  to  cut  the  bridal  cake,  announcing  its  conclusion,  the 
beautiful  head  of  the  bride  dropped  upon  the  table ;  her  arms 
fell  inertly  to  her  side ;  and  in  an  instant  she  was  in  a  profound 
and  deathlike  sleep.  This  was  the  signal  for  a  reproduction 
of  the  preceding  pleasantries,  mingled  with  "  Bravi "  and  clap- 
ping of  hands  from  the  guests. 

Singular  circumstance !  All  the  noise  did  not  awaken  the 
bride  from  her  trance!  Her  mother  and  several  matrons 
of  the  company  surrounded  the  fair  somnambula,  patted  her 
hands,  put  vinegar  and  burnt  feathers  under  her  nostrils,  inun- 
dated her  with  cold  water,  and  used  other  restoratives ;  but 
still  she  slept. 

Nature  appeared  to  exert  herself  to  resist  some  soporific 
influence,  and  to  throw  it  off;  for  there  was  an  occasional 

19* 


222  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

nervous  tremor:  but  she  again  relapsed  into  sleep.  These 
symptoms  of  reviving  became  fainter ;  and  the  bride  was  car- 
ried off  to  bed. 

The  wedding-feast  thus  interrupted,  the  tables  were  finally 
abandoned ;  and  the  guests  departed  from  the  meson,  in  which 
silence  now  reigned  in  place  of  the  recent  joy  and  merriment. 

The  bridegroom  staid  near  the  bride  as  long  as  the  least 
hope  of  returning  consciousness  remained ;  but,  when  she  was 
carried  off  by  the  women,  I  saw  him  wipe  away  a  tear :  then 
his  face  assumed  a  suspicious  and  wrathful  aspect,  and  he 
issued  forth  into  the  patio. 

Following  and  meeting  him  there,  he  politely  asked  me  if 
I  sought  any  one ;  and,  when  I  said  that  I  was  looking  for 
Pancho,  he  rejoined,  "  I  also  seek  him,"  and  disappeared  in 
the  direction  of  the  stables.  We  could  not  find  Pancho,  and 
re-entered  the  inn.  It  was  a  gloomy  night  at  the  meson  of 
San  Juan.  The  unaccountable  sleep  of  the  fair  maid  con- 
tinued in  spite  of  all  the  restoratives  lavished  on  her  by  tender- 
ness, aided  by  excellent  medical  skill. 

At  the  break  of  day  her  respiration  stopped,  the  heart  ceased 
to  beat,  and  lamentations  filled  the  house.  The  fair  bride  was 
dead !  I  attended  the  funeral  after  a  few  days,  during  which 
I  endeavored  ineffectually  to  console  poor  Martin  Herrera, 
whose  deep  grief  was  manifested  only  by  a  moody  silence. 

Pancho  had  disappeared ;  and  I  could  not  help  secretly 
connecting  his  absence  with  the  tragedy,  but  just  in  what 
'manner  I  could  not  understand.  On  the  evening  after  the 
obsequies,  the  mystery  was  partially  explained.  The  corpse 
of  La  Chapita  had  been  disinterred,  and  lay  near  the  empty 
grave  from  which  it  had  been  sacrilegiously  digged  in  the 
cemetery ;  while  at  a  distance  of  fifty  feet  near  the  wall  was 
found  the  dead  body  of  the  idiot  Pancho,  the  skull  cloven  by 
a  pick-axe  which  lay  near  it. 

The  gossips   all  hastened  to  the   cemetery  aa   the   news 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  223 

spread ;  and  my  informant  wished  to  enlarge  upon  the  hideous 
details  :  but,  cutting  short  her  ghastly  story,  I  bade  my  attend- 
ants prepare  to  leave  the  town,  as  I  had  already  finished  my 
business,  and  merely  hastened  my  journey.  We  mounted, 
starting  from  the  meson  at  a  gallop ;  and  in  less  than  two 
hours  lost  sight  of  the  sky-kissing  towers  of  San  Juan. 

The  tragedy  enacted  in  the  little  town  made  quite  a  noise 
in  the  country  for  a  time,  until  something  else  as  startling 
happened.  Every  one  had  his  theory  of  the  incidents  of  the 
catastrophe,  and  vigorously  defended  it.  The  prefect  of  the 
department,  aroused  to  action,  and  the  alcalde  of  San  Juan, 
with  other  hombres  buenos,  bothered  their  brains  for  several 
months  about  the  mystery,  without  arriving  at  any  reasonable 
solution.  At  last  it  was  given  up  as  insoluble,  and  denounced 
in  Mexican  fashion  as  a  contrivance  of  the  Devil,  and  decreed 
in  the  book  of  fate. 

From  Guanajuato  I  set  out  for  the  city  of  Mexico.  Arriving 
without  any  noteworthy  experience,  I  alighted  at  the  Hotel  de 
Iturbide,  the  proprietor  of  which,  at  that  time,  was  Don  Anselmo 
Zurntuza,  a  large  capitalist  and  well-known  citizen,  and  a 
gentleman  to  whose  memory  I  desire  to  pay  my  little  tribute 
of  respect. 

Hon.  Robert  F.  Letcher  filled  the  post  of  American  minis- 
ter at  that  time  in  Mexico ;  and  to  him  I  was  indebted  for  an 
introduction  to  the  society  of  the  capital,  in  which  he  was  much 
respected  and  beloved.  After  having  passed  several  years  among 
rude  and  uncultivated  persons  thrown  accidentally  together,  or 
with  people  of  primitive  simplicity,  with  an  occasional  alter- 
nated taste  of  barbarism,  the  change  to  a  refined  social  circle, 
in  which  were  many  persons  of  education  and  accomplishments, 
was  most  agreeable  ;  and  I  enjoyed  it  to  the  fullest  extent. 

Thanks  to  Mr.  Letcher,  I  soon  became  acquainted  with  the 
president  of  the  republic  as  well  as  other  official  persons. 
Don  Mariano  Arista,  at  that  time  incumbent  of  the  presideu- 


224  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

tial  chair,  is  well  known  as  a  general  and  civil  functionary,  and 
distinguished  for  the  mild  forbearance  of  his  rule,  —  a  trait 
insufficiently  appreciated  among  his  countrymen.  In  person 
he  was  tall  and  well-formed,  with  good  and  regular  features ; 
and,  in  hair  and  complexion,  what  Mexicans  call  a  guero 
(blonde). 

The  late  war  with  the  United  States  had  almost  utterly 
disorganized  the  Mexican  army,  and  the  artillery  especially 
had  suffered  from  neglect.  The  president,  aware  of  these 
deficiencies,  was  endeavoring  to  re-establish  the  national  forces 
on  an  improved  basis,  in  which  enterprise  he  pursued  a  liberal 
policy.  He  had  set  his  heart  upon  organizing  the  artillery, 
and  placing  it  in  a  state  of  efficiency  never  before  known  in 
Mexico ;  having  constantly  in  mind  the  splendid  field-batteries 
of  the  United  States,  which  had  contributed  so  much  to  our 
success  in  the  war. 

From  consultations  on  this  subject  with  the  president  (who 
sometimes  asked  my  advice)  grew  an  offer  from  him  of  a  mili- 
tary position  in  the  Mexican  army,  which  I  accepted ;  and  I 
became  a  member  of  his  staff,  with  the  rank  of  lieutenant- 
colonel.  I  was  immediately  charged  with  the  work  of  organ- 
izing and  drilling  four  light  batteries ;  giving,  at  the  same 
time,  instruction  to  a  class  of  officers  twice  a  week  in  pyro- 
techny,  dynamics,  and  the  science  of  projectiles,  illustrated  by 
target-practice,  and  work  in  the  laboratory. 

My  duties  were  rendered  the  more  agreeable  by  the  fact 
that  all  my  orders  and  instructions  came  directly  from  the 
president  as  commander-in-chief.  When  disengaged,  I  was 
expected  to  take  my  turn  of  duty  with  other  staff-officers  at 
the  national  palace ;  which  was  an  agreeable  relaxation  from 
more  onerous  labors,  and  carried  with  it  the  advantage  of 
free  quarters  and  personal  attendance  upon  my  genial  chief  on 
public  and  private  occasions.  My  horses  and  servants  were 
also  provided  for  at  the  public  expense  ;  and  I  had  the  satis- 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  225 

faction  of  soon  acquiring  the  confidence  of  the  first  man  in 
the  republic. 

In  February,  1852,  the  whole  of  the  plana  mayor  (general 
staff)  received  orders  to  accompany  the  president  on  a  journey  ; 
upon  which  we  started  at  the  appointed  time,  and,  after  a  brief 
stay  at  Queretaro,  proceeded  to  Guanajuato. 

In  this  great  mining  city  we  remained  about  a  week,  the 
president  being  much  occupied  in  inspecting  the  principal 
mint  of  the  nation ;  and  I  improved  the  opportunity  to 
examine  the  great  mines  and  haciendas  of  this  famous  district. 
On  the  Sunday  before  leaving  Guanajuato,  I  accompanied  my 
chief  to  high  mass  in  the  cathedral  with  the  rest  of  the  staff, 
and,  during  the  service,  recognized  among  the  ecclesiastics 
who  officiated  at  the  altar  a  well-remembered  face.  It  was 
that  of  Father  Ipolito,  who  filled  the  cure  of  San  Juan  de  los 
Lagos.  This  venerable  and  excellent  man  was  a  Frenchman 
of  high  character  and  learning,  who  had  once  exercised  the 
sacred  ministry  in  the  United  States,  and  was  universally  re- 
spected by  all  who  knew  him  in  both  countries.  After  the 
service  was  over,  I  accompanied  the  suite  to  the  door  of  the 
church;  then  returned,  and  entered  the  sacristy.  Father  Ipoli- 
to received  me  with  much  apparent  pleasure,  and  immediately 
acceded  to  my  request  for  an  interview  vuth  him  that  even- 
ing, making  an  appointment  which  we  were  both  exact  in 
keeping. 


XXIX. 

SINCE  the  affair  of  the  meson  of  San  Juan,  my  thoughts 
perpetually  recurred  to  the  sad  events  which  had  partly 
induced  me  to  leave  that  town  on  the  morning  of  the  dis- 
covery of  the  bodies  of  Chapita  and  the  idiot  Pancho  in  the 
cemetery. 

The  faces  of  the  actors  in  the  tragedy  frequently  came 
before  my  mind's  eye ;  and  I  felt  that  my  uneasiness  could 
not  be  removed  until  the  mysterious  veil,  that  hid  either  a 
horrible  crime  or  a  fearful  misfortune,  was  drawn  aside. 

One  evening,  how  or  a  propos  of  what  I  do  not  remember, 
an  idea  flashed  into  my  mind,  and  a  train  of  circumstances 
that  led  to  a  tragical  end  stretched  out  like  a  path  of  light 
before  me.  The  vial  of  Lethe  !  On  my  last  trip  to  San  Fran- 
cisco in  "  The  Golondrina,"  the  fatigue  and  anxiety  had  affected 
my  nervous  system  so  materially,  that  I  could  not  sleep ;  and, 
after  tossing  all  night  on  a  feverish  bed,  I  went  through  the 
days  in  an  unquiet,  somnolent,  and  absent  frame  of  mind, 
which  not  only  unfitted  me  for  business,  but  which  exhausted 
my  mental  and  bodily  forces. 

I  had  consulted  several  medical  men,  and  tried  their  reme- 
dies without  avail,  when  I  accidentally  met  an  old  acquaint- 
ance, a  veteran  sea-captain  whom  I  had  last  seen  in  the  East 
Indies.  He  was  a  Dutchman,  and,  when  I  knew  him,  com- 
manded an  Indiatnan  trading  between  Holland  and  Java. 
Like  most  of  his  calling,  this  old  man  had  been  forced  to  act 

226 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  227 

sometimes  in  the  capacity  of  a  physician  ;  and  he  had  qualified 
himself  in  no  mean  degree  for  such  service.  He  had,  indeed, 
quite  a  taste  for  medical  practice,  and  carried  with  him  an  in- 
finite store  of  odd  recipes  and  sovereign  cures  for  all  the  ills 
"that  flesh  is  heir  to,"  together  with  the  Bunsby-like  propensity 
for  giving  advice  to  all  who  needed  it.  Learning  of  my  in- 
ability to  sleep,  and  the  attendant  symptoms  of  my  case,  this 
"  ancient  mariner "  had  prescribed,  as  a  sure  panacea  for  my 
relief,  what  I  afterwards  called  the  "  vial  of  Lethe." 

It  was  a  small  cube  of  crystal,  closed  with  a  ground-glass 
stopper;  its  sides  inscribed  with  gilt  Eastern  characters,  and 
containing  about  a  dozen  pastilles  of  a  pasty,  chocolate-colored 
substance,  each  enveloped  in  gold-leaf.  The  composition  of 
the  medicine  I  never  knew ;  but  it  was  probably  a  prepa- 
ration of  Indian  hemp  and  opium,  as  he  told  me  he  had 
obtained  the  drug,  with  other  articles  of  great  value,  from  a 
Javanese  prince,  for  whom  he  had  performed  some  important 
service.  The  captain  accompanied  his  gift  with  serious  and 
positive  instructions,  warning  me  against  violating  them ;  as, 
he  said,  the  vial  contained  sufficient  medicine  to  make  one 
sleep  for  a  hundred  years.  I  had  only  to  take  a  very  small 
particle  of  one  of  these  pastilles  on  the  point  of  a  needle,  dis- 
solve it  in  a  glass  of  eau  sucree,  and  drink  it  on  retiring  at 
night. 

I  found  it  an  efficient  remedy.  An  hour  or  so  after  its  ad- 
ministration, total  forge tfulness  of  all  mundane  things,  perfect 
repose  of  body  and  mind,  ensued,  and  calm,  refreshing,  and 
strengthening  sleep  succeeded,  lasting  all  night;  after  which  I 
arose  completely  restored.  After  being  cured  of  my  first 
attack  by  the  use  of  this  specific,  I  kept  the  vial  constantly 
at  hand;  and  this  it  was  that  I  drew  from  my  pocket  at  the 
instant  when  —  like  a  vision  —  the  revelation  I  spoke  of  came 
into  my  head.  I  then  recalled  to  mind  that  one  night  shortly 
after  I  had  arrived  at  San  Juan,  feeling  ill  at  ease,  I  had 


•ft 
KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 


ordered  Pancho  to  bring  sugar  and  water  for  my  dose ;  and, 
much  to  his  wonder  and  amazement,  prepared,  in  his  presence, 
the  draught. 

With  rude  pantomime  and  uncouth  sounds  the  idiot  endeav- 
ored to  inquire  why  I  had  thus  medicated  the  water  I  was 
about  to  drink.  I  told  him  that  I  could  not  sleep ;  and  that, 
after  I  had  drank  the  potion,  sleep  would  come.  Pancho  then 
asked  what  quantity  of  the  drug  was  necessary  to  produce  the 
desired  result,  handled  the  vial  curiously,  and  shaking  his 
head,  as  if  it  was  something  entirely  beyond  the  range  of  his 
comprehension,  left  me  to  slumber. 

I  gave  this  incident  no  further  thought  at  the  time,  but 
went  out  in  haste  the  next  morning,  leaving  the  vial  near  my 
bedside,  where  I  found  it  apparently  untouched  at  my  return. 

It  was  the  remembrance  of  this  circumstance  that  made  my 
heart  beat  as  the  questions  of  the  idiot  came  into  my  mind. 

I  examined  the  vial  closely,  counted  the  pastilles,  estimated 
those  I  had  consumed,  and  was  convinced  that  one  of  them 
had  been  abstracted.  I  meditated  long  on  the  circumstances 
of  the  complicated  drama.  I  considered  the  characters  of  its 
personages,  the  revelation  of  Tio  Nicolas  regarding  the  birth 
of  the  idiot  boy,  the  ill-concealed  violence  of  his  passion  for 
Chapita,  the  anxiety  of  Martin  Herrera  at  the  nuptial  feast, 
and  the  subsequent  fate  of  the  bride. 

Pancho  !  I  was  convinced  that  the  "  vial  of  Lethe  "  was,  in 
some  way,  the  agent  of  the  catastrophe ;  but  I  could  advance 
no  farther  towards  a  full  solution  of  the  mystery.  Making  a 
full  statement  of  all  the  facts  in  my  possession  to  Father 
Ipolito,  I  concluded  by  asking  his  advice,  saying  that  it  would 
ease  my  mind  to  hear  his  opinion  of  the  matter. 

The  good  father  reflected  profoundly  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
then  asked  me  if  I  remembered  Dario. 

This  Dario  was  an  Indian  of  the  Maricopa  tribe,  a  captive 
whq  had  been  brought  to  San  Juan,  and  had  become  a  convert 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE,  229 

to  Christianity;  after  which  conversion  he  had  been  taught  to 
assist  in  the  services  of  the  church,  and  had  charge  of  the 
cemetery,  performing  his  duties  with  exemplary  patience  and 
punctuality,  although  somewhat  in  years. 

I  instantly  understood  then,  by  the  question  of  the  reverend 
priest,  that  Dario  knew  more  than  he,  at  first,  wished  to  reveal; 
for  he  had  been  examined  at  the  judicial  investigation  of  the 
deaths,  though  nothing  could  be  drawn  from  him  except  vague 
and  insignificant  replies  to  the  questions  asked.  It  was  with 
a  feeling  of  relief  that  I  heard  the  question  of  the  excellent 
ecclesiastic;  and,  having  answered  in  the  affirmative,  Father 
Ipolito  entered  upon  the  following  narrative :  — 

"  It  is  my  sacred  duty  as  well  as  pleasure,  my  son,  to  do  all 
I  can  to  alleviate  the  troubles  common  to  suffering  humanity ; 
and  it  is  a  happy  reflection  that  I  can  do  so  in  your  case  with- 
out violating  confidences  which  have  come  to  my  knowledge 
under  the  seal  of  confession.  Six  months  after  the  discovery 
of  the  bodies  in  the  cemetery,  —  of  which  incident  you  are 
aware,  —  I  learned  that  Dario  possessed  a  painful  secret. 
At  last  he  came  to  me  for  advice.  He  said  he  had  not 
told  the  judges  all  he  knew,  because  of  his  belief  that  all 
idiots  were  the  natural  and  favored  children  of  the  Supreme 
Being.  I  remembered  the  superstitious  respect  of  all  savage 
tribes  for  those  who  are  either  wholly  or  partially  deprived  of 
reason.  It  was  evident  that  Dario  had  not  yet  entirely  di- 
vested himself  of  his  old  pagan  notions ;  but,  waiving  this 
morsel  of  heterodoxy,  I  encouraged  him  to  proceed. 

"  He  then  told  me,  that,  on  the  evening  of  the  interment,  he 
was  in  his  hut  in  the  cemetery,  on  his  knees  before  the  cross, 
and  offering  up  a  simple  prayer  for  the  soul  of  the  defunct, 
when  he  heard  sounds,  and  looked  forth  into  the  cemetery. 

"It  was  late  at  night ;  and,  by  the  light  of  the  moon,  he  saw 
a  man  enter  the  burial-ground,  approach  the  new-made  grave 
and  kneel  upon  it,  kissing  the  earth  as  if  it  had  really  been 

20 


230  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

his  mother.  Dario  crept  silently  from  the  hut ;  and,  conceal- 
ing himself  behind  a  tomb,  recognized  in  the  intruder  the 
idiot  Pancho,  who  had  brought  a  shovel  and  pick-axe  with  him, 
and  began  industriously  to  throw  up  the  earth  that  covered 
the  coffin. 

"  He  worked  vigorously,  and  soon  disclosed  the  coffin,  which 
he  broke  open.  Dario  did  not  interfere  with  his  labors  ;  for, 
soon  after  Pancho  had  begun  his  work,  he  became  aware  that 
there  was  another  witness  of  the  disiuterment. 

"This  was  Martin  Herrera,  who  had  cautiously  followed 
Pancho,  and  stood  watching  him  in  the  perpetration  of  his 
sacrilege ;  but,  when  the  work  was  done,  he  rushed  upon  Pan- 
cho, crying  out  '  Sacrilege  ! ' 

"  The  terrified  idiot  fled  towards  the  wall  of  the  cemetery, 
Martin  pursuing  him,  armed  with  the  pick-axe. 

"  Pancho  tried  to  climb  the  wall ;  but  the  avenger  overtook 
him,  and  buried  the  pick-axe  deep  in  his  skull. 

"For  a  moment  the  young  man  stood  contemplating  the 
body  of  his  victim ;  then  stirred  it  with  his  foot  as  if  to  ascer- 
tain that  it  was  really  lifeless,  and  returned  to  the  grave,  lifting 
his  hands  to  heaven  as  if  deprecating  its  wrath.  But  at  this 
moment  Dario  saw  the  corpse  of  the  girl  sitting  erect,  and 
endeavoring  to  divest  itself  of  its  cerements,  and,  terrified  at 
the  sight,  could  no  longer  restrain  an  exclamation ;  at  the 
sound  of  which,  Martin,  casting  a  lingering  glance  at  his  be- 
loved, withdrew  slowly  from  the  cemetery,  —  as  Dario  thought, 
to  fetch  assistance. 

"  As  you  had  left  San  Juan,  as  you  tell  me,  on  the  same  day, 
probably  you  have  not  heard  that  Martin  disappeared  from  the 
town  at  the  same  time,  going  alone  to  the  presidio  of  Altar,  to 
his  hacienda  ;  and  is  now  at  the  placer  in  California,  having 
left  Mexico,  I  suppose,  until  the  remembrance  of  the  tragic 
affair  has  died  away. 

"  Inquiring  of  Dario  why  he  had  not  in  the  first  place  seized 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  231 

the  idiot  in  the  act  of  profanation,  and,  above  all,  why  he  had  not 
interfered  at  the  last  to  save  the  woman,  —  who,  doubtless,  had 
been  restored  to  consciousness  by  the  action  of  the  cool  night 
air,  but,  unassisted,  had  sunk  again  into  the  arms  of  death, 
—  the  poor  ignorant  creature  replied,  that  'the  child  of 
Heaven,'  as  he  called  the  idiot,  had  resuscitated  the  dead  by 
his  power  derived  from  above  ;  and  that,  in  her  second  death, 
he  recognized  Heaven's  vengeance  for  the  murder  of  its  child. 

"I  did  not  then  attempt  to  enlighten  the  ignorance,  and 
overthrow  the  superstition,  of  the  poor  Indian  ;  but  afterwards, 
I  hope  successfully,  I  explained  to  him  the  true  attributes  of 
our  heavenly  Father,  and  his  ineffable  goodness  to  the  mean- 
est of  his  children." 

Here  ended  the  recital  of  Father  Ipolito.  The  mystery  was 
explained  at  last.  One  of  my  pastilles  had  been  stolen  by 
Pancho,  and  part  of  it  dissolved  in  a  cup  of  chocolate,  which  I 
remembered  hearing  that  she  had  drank  just  before  the  wed- 
ding-feast. The  potion  must  have  been  a  powerful  one,  but 
not  necessarily  fatal ;  for  my  medicine  was  slow  in  its  opera- 
tion, although  its  effects  lasted  for  a  long  time. 

The  mutual  confidences  of  the  good  father  and  myself  were 
properly  authenticated,  at  his  request.  And  thus  ends  the 
sad  story  of  the  Fair  Maid  of  the  Inn. 


XXX. 

ON  our  return  to  the  capital,  a  military  expedition  was 
prepared  to  march  against  those  rebellious  chiefs  who  had 
organized  armed  resistance  to  the  authority  of  the  government 
in  the  State  of  Michoacan. 

This  force  consisted  of  some  two  thousand  infantry,  fifteen 
hundred  cavalry,  and  two  batteries,  of  which  the  president 
assumed  the  command. 

The  cavalry  and  infantry  began  their  march  at  midnight, 
and  were  already  far  on  their  road,  the  artillery  still  parked  in 
the  grand  square  before  the  national  palace,  when,  at  early 
dawn,  we  were  awakened  from  sleep  by  fifty  trumpets  and 
cornets  in  the  court,  sounding  the  inspiriting  strains  of  the 
Diana.  I  immediately  mounted,  and  put  my  guns  in  motion ; 
and,  when  we  halted  for  our  desayuna  at  the  garita  of  Belen, 
the  column  was  overtaken  by  the  president  and  his  staff".  We 
bivouacked  that  night  at  Quajimalpa,  a  poor  village  ;  and  next 
day  arrived  at  Toluca,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  as  well  as  one 
of  the  most  ancient  of  the  cities  of  Mexico.  The  mountain  of 
Tutucuitlalpico  rises  above  the  city  fifteen  thousand  feet ;  and 
upon  its  very  summit  is  a  lake  of  clear,  ice-cold  water.  Con- 
tinuing our  march,  we  halted  the  next  day  at  La  Gabia,  a 
hacienda  belonging  to  the  Count  of  Regla,  thirty  square 
leagues  in  extent.  This  vast  estate  shares  the  peculiarities  of 
nearly  every  climate,  from  hot  to  cold,  and  yields  their  several 
products.  In  its  area  may  be  found  flourishing,  according  to 

282 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  233 

the  different  elevations  of  the  soil,  wheat,  maize,  and  the  fruits 
of  the  temperate  zone  ;  and,  not  far  off,  sugar-cane,  coffee, 
palms,  and  olives,  and  all  the  rich  and  luscious  varieties  of 
tropical  fruits.  The  State  of  Michoacan,  or  Morelia,  has  been 
considered  since  the  times  of  the  Montezumas  the  most  fertile 
as  well  as  the  loveliest  district  of  Mexico,  and  is  entitled  to 
the  appellation  of  the  Garden  of  the  Valley. 

Our  little  army  pushed  on  through  Taximaroa,  San  Andres, 
and  other  villages,  with  the  easy  gait  and  insouciant  manner 
that  distinguish  the  Mexican  soldiers,  — who  make  marches  that 
would  astonish  any  other  troops,  on  the  smallest  amount  of 
sustenance,  —  and  slept  that  night  at  the  hacienda  of  Queren- 
daro. 

The  next  morning  our  cavalry  was  engaged  with  that  of  the 
enemy ;  but  the  fight  proved  to  be  a  mere  affair  of  outposts ; 
and  for  another  day  or  two  we  continued  our  route  unmolested, 
although  hostile  cavalry  was  seen  hovering  about  our  column. 
On  the  25th  of  February,  1852,  the  army  was  marching  over 
a  difficult  and  dangerous  road,  and  the  head  of  the  column  had 
become  engaged  in  a  deep  and  narrow  defile,  when  it  was 
heavily  attacked  on  both  flanks.  My  two  batteries  were  near 
the  middle  of  the  column  :  the  infantry  were  thrown  back  upon 
us  in  confusion,  and  a  panic  began  to  spread  among  the  whole 
command.  Seeing  how  vain  would  be  any  effort  to  rally  the 
disorganized  infantry,  and  that  the  situation  called  for  a  diver- 
sion of  another  kind,  I  resolved  that  my  artillerists  should 
furnish  it.  At  my  command,  they  quickly  dismounted  and  sep- 
arated the  pieces  and  carriages  of  two  mountain-guns,  having 
been  previously  well  drilled  in  that  manoeuvre.  They  then 
took,  one  a  wheel,  another  the  brails  and  axles,  a  third  an- 
other wheel,  while  four  or  five  carried  the  pieces  themselves 
between  them  with  their  lassoes :  others  followed  with  the 
implements  and  ammunition  for  the  guns,  and,  struggling 
manfully  up  the  almost  perpendicular  sides  of  the  defile,  re- 
20* 


234  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

mounted  the  guns,  and  opened  a  rapid  fire  upon  the  left  flank 
of  the  enemy.  This  feat  could  not  have  been  performed  by 
any  troops  but  Mexicans.  In  no  other  country  is  the  lasso  so 
skilfully  used,  and  none  but  Mexican  military  saddles  have 
heads  to  secure  it ;  soldiers  of  other  nations  are  not  so  good 
horsemen  as  Mexicans ;  and,  finally,  no  other  than  agile,  sure- 
footed, unshod  Mexican  horses  could  have  climbed  that  fearful 
ascent. 

Like  his  rider,  the  horse  of  the  country  is  trained  to  chase, 
and  assist  his  master  in  overthrowing  wild  cattle  of  greatly 
superior  strength  ;  and  the  manner  of  breaking  him  to  the 
saddle,  of  bitting  him,  of  saddling  and  riding  him,  is  diametri- 
cally opposite  to  all  European  methods,  civil  or  military.  As 
to  Americans,  except  in  the  Far  West,  where  the  best  riders 
adopt  the  Mexican  fashions,  equestrian  exercises  have  fallen 
so  completely  into  desuetude,  that  we  have  now  only  park- 
riding,  which  is  but  a  poor  imitation  of  the  "Bois"  and 
"Rotten  Row." 

This  sudden  artillery-attack  shook  the  enemy,  and  gave  time 
to  our  men  to  rally,  who  again  pressed  forward  into  the  defile  ; 
while  our  cavalry,  coming  up  in  the  rear,  decided  the  event,  and 
drove  the  rebels  from  the  field. 

Emerging  from  the  defile,  we  saw  the  forces  of  the  latter  in 
line  of  battle  in  the  plain,  and  formed  to  attack  them  ;  but,  at 
the  first  shot  from  the  much-dreaded  artillery,  they  retreated, 
pursued  by  our  cavalry,  to  Patzcuaro. 

Under  the  walls  of  that  town  they  made  another  stand  :  but 
the  artillery  again  put  them  to  flight ;  and  we  entered  the  city 
in  triumph,  where  the  president  established  his  head-quarters, 
the  rebels  retreating  to  the  mountains.  Having  dispersed 
the  facciosos  as  they  were  called,  and  restored  order  in  this 
beautiful  State,  until  its  next  disturbance  we  could  turn  our 
attention  to  social  enjoyment,  in  which  we  were  aided  and 
entertained  by  some  of  the  very  persons  who  had  fought 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  235 

against  us ;  and,  the  objects  of  the  campaign  having  been 
attained,  we  returned  leisurely  to  the  capital. 

There,  having  been  badly  wounded,  I  became  the  guest  of  a 
family  from  whom  I  received  the  kindest  care. 

While  confined  within-doors,  my  former  friends  often  came 
in  to  while  away  the  dull  hours  with  agreeable  conversation. 

Among  these  was  a  young  man  who  held  a  government 
office,  and  who  had  often  questioned  me  about  the  different 
countries  I  had  seen,  and  sought  such  other  information  as  I 
was  able  to  impart. 

One  day  I  asked  him,  in  return,  to  relate  to  me  his  own 
experiences ;  and,  complying  at  once,  he  told  his  little  history, 
which,  as  it  forms  an  admirable  commentary  upon  the  manners 
of  the  country,  I  may  repeat  in  a  free  translation  of  his  own 
language  without  being  charged  with  digression. 

"  Commonplace  and  uneventful  as  my  humble  memoir  may 
appear  to  you,  colonel,  who  have  had  such  large  experience 
of  all  countries,  it  still  has  a  moral,  and  perhaps  implies  a 
satire  upon  our  Mexican  society,  of  which  I  am  an  insignifi- 
cant member.  I  am  a  native  of  Guadalajara.  My  parents 
died  while  I  was  yet  young,  after  having  given  me  as  good  an 
education  as  they  could  afford  with  their  very  limited  means. 
They  left  me  no  money,  but  much  taste  for  spending  it 

"I  languished  some  time  after  their  death,  in  a  small 
provincial  town,  on  a  modest  employment,  which  permitted  me 
to  ride  a  borrowed  nag  on  the  Pasco  on  Sundays  and  holidays, 
and  to  purchase  my  inexpensive  toilet  and  cigarritos,  until  I 
arrived  in  this  city.  I  had  come  to  the  conclusion  in  my 
humble  retreat  that  Fortune  at  last  must  be  weary  of  neglect- 
ing my  claims  to  a  more  brilliant  position. 

"  With  a  purse  light  indeed  when  compared  to  my  hopes 
and  expectations,  I  descended  at  the  best  hotel  in  Mexico, 
and  ordered  the  best  accommodations.  I  was  conducted  at 


236  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

once  with  welcoming  salutations  to  an  elegant  though  small 
apartment,  furnished  with  taste  and  comfort ;  and  at  once 
understood  that  I  had  entered  a  fashionable,  and,  consequently, 
expensive  house. 

"'Ave  Maria,'  thought  I:  'my  destiny  has  changed  at  last, 
and  I  must  conduct  myself  like  a  well  horn  and  nurtured 
youth ;  for,  as  everybody  knows,  such  a  one  is  a  person  for 
whom  society  does  a  great  deal,  while  he  does  as  little  as 
possible  for  society,  public  consideration  here  below  being  in 
inverse  ratio  to  one's  usefulness.' 

"Being  left  alone,  I  approached  the  window,  and,  looking 
into  the  street,  perceived  a  young  woman  on  the  balcony  of 
the  next  house,  who  smiled  pleasantly  at  my  appearance. 

"  Too  well-bred  not  to  understand  such  advances,  I  saluted 
the  lady,  who  politely  returned  my  courtesy.  Emboldened  by 
such  condescension,  I  made  a  sign  in  our  digital  language, 
which  meant  that  I  thought  her  charming ;  and  blew  her  a 
kiss. 

"  The  young  woman  burst  into  a  laugh,  and  retired,  shutting 
the  window.  '  Good ! '  thought  I :  '  an  adventure  has  already 
commenced.  Really,  the  capital  pleases  me :  I  shall  be  en- 
chanted to  inhabit  it.'  As  dinner  at  the  mesa  redonda  was 
not  to  be  served  for  an  hour  or  so,  I  employed  the  intervening 
time  in  a  street  promenade ;  taking  possession,  as  it  were. 

"  The  streets  were  filled  with  people  intent  on  business  or 
pleasure.  The  gay  air  of  the  latter,  and  the  complacency  of 
the  negociantes,  were  pleasing  to  a  stranger;  while  occasional 
glimpses  of  handsome  ladies  on  their  balconies,  children 
returning  from  school,  and  other  lively  sights  which  diversify 
the  streets  of  our  city,  gave  me  an  agreeable  impression. 
'  Ah  ! '  thought  I,  '  here  every  one  lives  but  for  amusement : 
every  thing  seems  en  fiesta.' 

"  I  have  always  thought  that  life  is  only  understood  in 
great  cities.  I  regarded  the  passing  crowds ;  and  it  seemed  to 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  237 

me  that  already  I  knew  these  persons,  who  henceforth  were  to 
be  my  fellow-citizens.  I  murmured  to  myself  the  names  on 
the  signs  of  the  shops  ;  and  even  felt  an  impulse  to  salute  the 
passers,  and  to  inquire  after  their  healths.  Continuing  my 
walk,  I  arrived  at  my  hotel,  and  seated  myself  at  the  mesa 
redonda,  near  an  old  schoolmate  whom  I  recognized.  As  was 
natural,  we  mutually  informed  each  other  of  the  motives  which 
had  led  us  to  the  capital. 

"  'I  have  come  here  to  occupy  a  government-office/  said  I. 

"  *  And  I  also/  said  my  friend  Valdes,  '  came  with  the  same 
intention,  but  have  already  lost  all  hope.' 

"  <  Why  ? '  said  I. 

" '  The  place  I  was  desirous  of  possessing,'  answered 
Valdes,  '  depends  upon  the  minister  of  the  interior.' 

" '  Mine  also  depends  upon  the  same  official,'  I  returned. 

"'I  have  just  seen  him,  and  he  announced  to  me  that  a 
rival  possessing  incontestable  claims  would  be  preferred  to  me.' 

*' '  Know  you  who  he  is  ? ' 

"  'I  do  not  know  his  name ;  but  he  has  written  some  articles 
upon  the  administration  of  his  department  for  "  The  Siglo," 
and  is  a  licentiate :  he  is  also  a  relative  of  Gen.  Bravo.' 

"  '  Caracoles,  hombre  !  it  is  I ! '  ejaculated  your  humble 
servant,  with  a  sudden  joy  he  could  not  conceal. 

"  Francisco  Valdes  made  an  exclamation  of  surprise. 

" '  Pardon  me,  my  poor  friend,'  said  I,  concealing  my  joy 
under  an  affected  air  of  modesty.  '  I  am  in  despair  at  having 
been  the  cause  of  thy  disappointment;  but  that  particular 
place  has  been  promised  me  for  a  long  time.  I  had,  indeed,  a 
claim  upon  it,  as  the  honorable  minister  told  thee.' 

"  '  So  you  are  the  nephew  of  Gen.  Bravo  ? '  said  Francisco. 

" '  I  am,  indeed,  the  nephew  of  my  uncle,'  said  I  gayly. 
'  But  be  not  uneasy  :  I  hope  to  acquire  some  influence  with 
the  minister ;  and  thou  shalt  have  the  very  first  agreeable 
vacancy.' 


238  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

"  Dinner  over,  and  feeling  that  sort  of  generosity  that  is 
natural  to  a  victor,  I  would  not  abandon  my  friend  Valdes  to 
gloomy  reflections  on  his  defeat,  but  accompanied  him  to  the 
Alameda.  Although  it  was  the  fashionable  hour,  and  all  the 
ton  of  the  city  was  airing  itself  in  carriages,  on  horseback,  or 
on  foot,  my  friend  seemed  dejected  and  disgusted.  He  found 
the  gardens  badly  laid  out,  the  women  homely,  and  the 
weather  —  here  in  Mexico  !  —  unpleasant. 

"  The  true  sun  of  most  men  is  not  in  heaven :  it  is  in  the 
heart ;  it  is  joy.  Reaching  a  gentle  eminence  from  which  the 
eye  could  take  in  the  city,  the  volcanoes,  the  lakes,  with  their 
floating  chinampas,  and  the  whole  unrivalled  panorama  of  our 
glorious  valley,  I  could  not  help  stopping,  and  uttering  an 
exclamation  of  delight ;  but  my  companion  only  shrugged  his 
shoulders  with  contempt. 

" '  I  always  did  hate  a  great  city,'  said  he.  '  What  is  it  but 
a  comb  void  of  honey ;  an  ant-hill,  whose  population  is  forever 
laboring  without  reaching  satisfactory  results  ?  Such  is  human 
life,  —  action,  bustle,  everywhere ;  but  substantial  results 
nowhere.  Water  runs  ;  the  wind  passes  by  us ;  we  grow  old, 
and  die ;  and  all  is  ended.  What  law  governs  all  this  agi- 
tation ?  Why,  chance.  Some  arrive  at  their  destination 
without  having  taken  their  departure  ;  while  others  are  forever 
departing,  but  never  arrive.  The  happy  are  those  'heavy 
fathers '  and  stage-uncles  who  stick  to  their  parts.  But  look 
at  those  wretched  leperos,  so  out  of  place  in  this  gay  crowd ! 
They  cower  under  the  pelting  of  the  storm  while  traversing 
the  dreary  path  of  life ;  and,  when  they  arrive  at  the  coach- 
office  of  destiny,  there  are  no  tickets  left.' 

"  Somewhat  annoyed  by  these  allusions,  I  ventured  to 
remark  that  the  first  condition  of  success  in  seeking  place  is 
the  possession  of  talent;  the  poor  in  wit  being  like  the  poor 
in  purse,  —  unable  to  furnish  an  equivalent  for  the  enjoyment 
of  a  good  position.  But,  seeing  that  my  remarks  piqued 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  239 

Valdes,  I  added,  '  Philosophy  is  out  of  place  just  after  dinner : 
so  let  us  digest  now,  and  postpone  business  until  to-morrow. 
Can  we  complain  of  life  or  of  society  while  enjoying  this  per- 
fumed breeze,  or  while  listening  to  that  murmuring  brook  ? 
No  one,  Francisco,  can  claim  to  be  exclusively  happy  or 
miserable.  The  rich  have  need  of  the  admiration  of  the 
poor,  the  powerful  of  the  approbation  of  the  weak. 

" '  Look  at  these  charming  women  as  they  pass.  It  is  for 
.us  that  they  wish  to  appear  beautiful ;  those  sumptuous  car- 
riages are  gilded  but  for  our  admiration ;  those  lackeys  are 
gorgeously  liveried,  not  for  their  masters,  but  for  us ;  and  that 
old  gentleman,  who  rides  so  badly,  exposes  himself  to  a  broken 
neck  only  that  we  may  be  amused.' 

"  A  cavalier  of  ripe  age,  dressed  in  a  splendid  Mexican 
riding-costume  and  mounted  on  a  richly-caparisoned  horse, 
appeared  at  this  moment  on  the  Alameda.  It  was  easy  to  see 
that  his  steed  was  well  trained  in  those  acts  of  the  manege 
taught  by  our  ginetes  to  a  caballo  galan ;  and  he  threatened 
at  times  to  bring  his  rider  to  grief.  He  caracoled  gayly, 
frequently  turning  upon  his  tracks,  snorting,  and  champing 
the  bit,  and  often  taking  as  many  steps  to  the  rear  as  to  the 
front ;  which  is  the  last  degree  of  perfection  in  a  horse  of  the 
haute  ecole. 


XXXI. 


"  rj  iHE  old  cavalier,  ill  at  ease,  tried  to  induce  his  fiery 

_I_  charger  to  rest  a  little  from  his  gambadoes ;  but  the 
horse  snorted,  threw  up  his  head,  and  passed  on.  Valdes 
stopped  to  gaze  at  the  retreating  horseman.  '  He  looks  like  a 
pair  of  tailor's  shears  on  horseback,'  said  he  :  'he  must  be  a 
very  great  man  to  possess  the  right  to  make  himself  so 
ridiculous.'  I  noticed  that  all  the  promenaders  saluted  the 
old  gentleman  with  respect  and  deference;  the  ladies,  especial- 
ly, bestowing  radiant  glances  upon  him.  '  Mean  flatterers  ! ' 
remarked  Valdes.  '  If  he  were  a  poor  ranchero,  they  would 
point  their  fingers  in  scorn  at  him.  See  him,  now,  parading 
before  that  carriage  !  He  strongly  resembles  a  circus  clown. 
I  have  a  great  mind  to  hiss  him.' 

"  ' Silence  ! '  said  I :  'he  approaches.  He  is  a  person  of  im- 
portance :  see  his  decoration  ! ' 

" '  Ho,  ho  ! '  said  Francisco.  '  Let  us  view  him  nearer  :  we 
may  extract  some  amusement  from  his  capers.  Such  a  carica- 
ture must  not  be  permitted  to  pass  with  impunity.' 

"  '  Take  care  what  you  do,  Francisco  ! '  cried  I.  And  he, 
'  I  am  not  a  public  functionary,  but  a  free  man,  and  may  have 
an  opinion  of  my  own.' 

"So  saying,  Valdes  walked  rapidly  to  a  little  green  eleva- 
tion bordering  the  path  followed  by  the  cavalier;  but  sud- 
denly I  saw  him  stop,  step  rapidly  forward,  and  salute  the  old 
gentleman.  At  the  same  moment  the  horse  made  a  volt, 

240 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  241 

and  the  old  man's  hat  flew  off,  and  was  carried  some  distance 
by  the  wind. 

"  Valdes  ran  in  pursuit  of  the  sombrero ;  missed  it  three 
times,  and  caught  it  at  the  fourth  trial.  He  brushed  it  care- 
fully with  his  sleeve  ;  then  ran  to  the  ridiculous  cavalier,  to 
whom  he  presented  it  with  a  low  bow. 

"'What  the  devil  can  he  be  about?'  thought  I;  and, 
curious  to  know  the  reason  of  this  sudden  change  of  demeanor 
in  Valdes,  I  endeavored  to  gain  admittance  to  the  roadway 
through  the  crowd :  but  the  old  cavalier  instantly  quitted 
the  Alameda,  Valdes  accompanying  him,  walking  by  the  side 
of  the  caballo  galan. 

"  I  returned  to  the  hotel,  still  mystified  by  what  I  had  seen 
on  the  Alameda ;  and,  meeting  the  landlord  at  the  entrance, 
asked  him  the  name  of  my  fair  neighbor,  who  occupied  her 
balcony. 

"  '  Ah,  ha ! '  answered  he,  '  that  little  one  ? ' 

"  '  Yes,  to  be  sure.' 

u '  She  is  una  senorita  libre '  ('  a  free  young  lady  ').  '  She 
is  called  "  Rita."  Ah  !  indeed,  with  her  coquettish  airs,  and 
her  great  languishing  eyes  flashing  from  under  her  rebosito.' 

"Then,  assuming  a  grave  air,  he  continued:  'She  has 
helped  to  spend  more  than  one  liberal  inheritance  among  my 
quondam  lodgers.  I  often  have  here  unsophisticated  young 
men  travelling  for  information.' 

"  Hearing  this  account  of  my  neighbor,  I  virtuously  deter- 
mined never  to  open  my  window,  or  to  waft  more  kisses  from 
it;  and,  night  drawing  on,  ascended  to  my  apartment,  and 
began  to  work  at  some  literary  employment  I  had  in  hand. 
In  about  a  couple  of  hours  I  rose,  walked  to  the  window,  and 
cautiously  looked  towards  the  house  of  my  vis-a-vis,  having 
been  attracted  by  the  sound  of  voices. 

"  I  saw  a  man,  whom  I  recognized  as  the  ridiculous  cavalier 
of  the  Alameda,  standing  before  the  door  of  my  fair  neighbor, 
21 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 


which  was  held  ajar  by  an  old  woman,  whom  he  was  suppli- 
cating for  admission. 

"  I  could  make  out  from  their  colloquy  that  the  vieja  (old 
woman)  was  obdurate ;  and  she  finally  retired,  repeating  a 
Spanish  proverb,  signifying,  that,  when  one  has  no  teeth,  one 
cannot  expect  to  crack  nuts. 

"  The  visitor,  however,  still  lingered  under  the  window,  ap- 
parently hoping  for  reconsideration  of  the  refusal ;  when  I 
heard  a  whispered  conversation,  interrupted  by  stifled  laughter, 
in  the  chamber  of  the  '  free  young  lady.'  Suddenly  the  win- 
dow opened,  and  Rita  appeared,  bearing  a  vase  in  which  was 
a  large  bouquet. 

"  The  gay  old  cavalier  raised  his  head,  and  softly  whispered 
her  name ;  but  a  deluge  of  cold  water  and  flowers  prevented 
him  from  saying  more.  I  could  not  refrain  from  bursting  into 
a  laugh  at  his  discomfiture,  which  drew  his  observation  toward 
me.  'Ah  ! '  said  he,  ' it  is,  then,  a  preconcerted  affair.' 

"He  then  groped  his  way  up  the  narrow  street,  keeping 
close  to  the  houses,  and,  with  a  shame-faced  air,  disappeared 
in  the  obscurity. 

"I  did  not  avail  myself  of  the  opportunity  to  enter  into 
conversation  with  Rita,  who  lingered  invitingly  on  the  bal- 
cony. My  sense  of  dignity  as  an  official  of  the  government 
obliged  me  to  adhere  strictly  to  propriety ;  and,  feeling 
sleepy,  I  re-entered  my  chamber,  and  shut  the  window.  'A 
courtesan!'  said  I  contemptuously  to  myself  while  putting  on 
my  nightcap ;  '  to  trade  on  one's  beauty  !  I  have  ever  detested 
the  race ;  and,  now  that  I  know  the  truth,  this  one  appears 
hideous.  I  must  turn  a  deaf  ear  to  her  blandishments :  it  is 
quite  easy  to  one  of  positive  delicacy  like  myself.'  So  saying, 
I  slept  soundly.  My  dreams  were  pleasant :  I  imagined  that 
I  had  been  elected  president,  and,  making  a  European  tour 
after  the  expiration  of  my  term  of  office,  married  a  German 
princess  with  a  nice  dot,  an  army  of  three  men,  and  the  right 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE,  243 

to  nominate  half  a  deputy  to  the  diet.  Awaking  the  next 
morning,  I  found  that  both  the  sun  and  my  pretty  neighbor 
had  already  risen.  She  was  seated  near  her  window,  engaged 
in  embroidery,  while  she  hummed  ajarabe. 

1  Aforrado  de  mi  vlda !  "  yo  te  quisiora  cantar," 
For  mis  ojos  son  tiernas,  y  empezaran  a  llorar.' 

De  Guadalajara  vengo,  lideando  eon  an  soldado, 
Solo  por  venir  a  vcr  a  mi  jarabe  aforrado.' 

"  The  last  versicle  was  appropriate  to  her  souvenir  of  myself, 
I  thought;  for  she  looked  up,  smiled,  with  a  blush  over  her 
features,  and,  without  acknowledging  my  rather  distant  salu- 
tation, lowered  her  head  over  her  work  with  an  air  of  sadness. 

"  I  finished  my  toilet  with  care ;  for  I  had  heard  that  the 
minister  of  the  interior  received  at  an  early  hour,  in  order  to 
appear  like  a  man  of  business-habits.  I  placed  the  letter  of 
my  uncle  (the  general)  in  my  breast-pocket,  and  started  for 
the  house,  which  I  entered,  quite  awe-struck  with  its  magnifi- 
cence. 

"  The  high  windows  splendidly  draped,  the  broad  staircase, 
and  roomy  vestibule,  announced  wealth  and  power.  I  felt  an 
innate  respect  for  one  so  well  lodged,  my  assurance  diminishing 
in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  apartments  I  traversed ;  until 
my  self-mistrust  ciilminated  on  entering  a  vast  saloon  hung 
with  silk,  and  superbly  furnished. 

"  I  delivered  the  general's  letter  to  a  servant,  who  prayed 
me  to  wait  uutil  his  Excellency  had  finished  his  toilet.  Left 
alone,  I  walked  round  the  room,  curiously  at  first,  then  with  a 
furtive  step.  I  was  troubled,  I  knew  not  why.  I  consulted 
my  watch,  although  I  did  not  wish  to  know  the  hour ;  and  at 
last  seated  myself  mentally  to  rehearse  the  compliments  I 
wished  to  pay  to  the  great  man,  as  I  piqued  myself  on  my 
knowledge  of  the  world,  and  of  the  art  of  pleasing.  'All 


244  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

men,'  said  I  to  myself,  'are  alike.  Take  plenty  of  vanity,  ditto 
of  egotism,  a  few  grains  of  chance,  double  the  same  number 
of  vices  disguised  as  virtues,  mix  well  together,  and  you  have 
indifferently  a  king  or  a  cobbler.  The  surest  way  to  success 
is  humility.  One  has  but  to  listen  when  a  patron  speaks  in 
order  to  be  credited  with  wit  and  wisdom.  Should  his  Excel- 
lency have  his  weak  points,  so  much  the  better:  they  will  be 
so  many  rounds  of  the  ladder  to  aid  me  to  mount.'  As  I  ended 
my  monologue,  a  door  opened,  and  a  gorgeous  robe  de  chambre 
appeared.  '  His  Excellency ! '  said  the  servant.'  We  each 
made  a  step  towards  the  other,  and  recoiled  simultaneously. 
I  beheld  the  same  person  who  had  been  repulsed  so  scornfully 
by  Rita  the  previous  evening ;  while  the  minister  clearly  rec- 
ognized mo  as  the  stranger  who  had  made  merry  at  his  mis- 
hap! Both  were  embarrassed;  but  the  minister  first  recovered 
his  presence  of  mind,  assumed  a  tone  of  dignified  coolness,  and 
remarked,  '  You  are  the  gentleman  recommended  by  Gen. 
Bravo ;  are  you  not  ? '  glancing  at  the  letter  which  he  held 
negligently. 

" '  I  am,'  said  I  trembling. 

"  '  Ah  !  no  doubt  you  have  claims  ? ' 

" t  His  Excellency  must  have  seen  —  in  the  letter  —  of  the 
general,'  I  faltered. 

" '  Oh,  yes !  he  spoke  of  some  articles  written  for  "  The 
Siglo,"  —  true;  but  who  is  there  that  does  not  write  for  the 
newspapers  now-a-days  ?  A  licentiate  too :  ah  !  that  is  not 
an  uncommon  distinction.  Meanwhile,  I  will  see.  I  wish  to 
be  useful  to  any  one  recommended  by  the  general.  Ah  ! 
come  and  see  me,  —  some  other  time  :  just  now  I  am  busy.' 

"  Speaking  thus,  his  Excellency  waved  me  politely  towards 
the  door;  upon  nearing  which,  as  I  involuntarily  obeyed  his 
gestures,  I  suddenly  comprehended  that  all  would  be  lost  in 
case  I  did  not  insist  upon  something  at  once." 


XXXII. 

situation  in  which  I  was  left  in  the  preceding  chap- 

JL  ter  was  a  critical  one  ;  and  I  nerved  myself  to  meet  it 
with  the  courage  of  despair.  '  Pardon  me,  your  Excellency,' 
said  I ;  '  but  the  general  gave  me  hopes  that  your  protection 
would  be  accorded  me.' 

"  The  minister  frowned.  '  Have  I  promised  any  thing  ? ' 
asked  he  coldly. 

"  '  Nothing  ;  but  the  general  told  me  —  he  thought  —  by  his 
advice  I  left  the  employment  I  had,  hoping  to  establish  my- 
self at  the  capital.' 

" '  Do  you  know  any  one  here  ?  "  asked  the  minister  with  an 
appearance  of  eagerness. 

'  No  one,'  I  answered.     '  I  arrived  only  yesterday.' 

"  '  Ah  !  really  ?    I  imagined  I  had  met  you  somewhere.' 

"  By  the  bitter  and  angry  manner  and  tone  which  emphasized 
this  last  remark,  I  understood  that  all  hope  had  fled.  I  made 
a  step  backward,  and  joined  my  hands,  articulating,  '  Oh  !  why 
should  I  have  seen  what  I  did  last  night  ? ' 

"  'It  all  seems  like  the  translation  of  a  verse  of  Ovid,'  coldly 
remarked  the  minister. 

"  I  twisted  my  hat  in  my  hands  nervously,  and  gazed  around 
with  a  frightened  air:  a  cold  sweat  bathed  my  forehead,  and  I 
essayed  to  make  my  exit,  but,  stopping  an  instant,  ventured  to 
say,— 

"  '  May  I  ask  his  Excellency  for  whom  my  place  is  destined  ? ' 

21*  245 


246  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

The  door  opened,  and  the  servant  announced  '  Don  Fran- 
cisco Valdes  I'  It  was  a  ray  of  light  to  the  minister.  '  Behold 
my  answer ! '  said  he. 

Francisco  stopped  at  once  with  a  stupefied  air.  '  I,  Excel- 
lency ? '  said  he. 

" '  I  would  not  announce  it  to  you  yesterday,  when  I  had  the 
honor  to  meet  you  on  the  Alameda ;  I  had  not  then  fully  de- 
cided :  hut,  since  that  time,  your  respective  rights  to  the  place 
have  been  more  fully  ascertained.' 

" '  All  right ! '  said  I,  thinking  of  the  adventure  of  the  vase. 
'  Oh  meanness  personified  !  and  this  is  what  is  called  society  ? ' 

"  The  door  stood  wide  open,  and  I  made  but  two  steps  down 
stairs  and  into  the  street.  Reaching  the  open  air,  I  collected 
my  scattered  thoughts,  and  relaxed  my  haste.  There  was, 
seemingly,  a  weight  upon  my  chest.  I  felt  at  once  furious  and 
humiliated.  It  seemed  to  me  that  I  must  discharge  upon  some- 
body the  grief  that  oppressed  me. 

"  I  imagined  that  all  the  incidents  of  my  interview  with  the 
minister  were  written  upon  my  forehead  for  every  one  to  read. 

"  I  hurriedly  traversed  the  streets,  the  alleys,  and  the  squares, 
casting  furious  glances  on  the  houses,  and  on  the  people  I  met. 
Mexico,  just  then,  appeared  hateful.  *  What  a  noise ! '  I  mur- 
mured, ' what  disorder !  Why  are  those  idlers  abroad  ?  no  one 
works  here  ! '  And  my  thoughts  reverting  to  my  adventure,  — 
'Ah,  ha  !  success  in  this  place  comes  by  picking  up  the  hats  of 
great  men.  City  of  injustice  and  debauchery,  Mexican  Sodom  ! 
thy  prizes  are  only  to  be  gained  by  parasites  and  sycophants. 
Cursed  city !  I  shake  thy  dust  from  my  shoes.'  As  I  achieved 
this  imprecation,  I  was  rejoined  by  my  successful  rival. 

"  In  his  turn,  Valdes  had  assumed  the  joyful  air  and  depre- 
catory accent  that  I  had  put  on  the  previous  evening.  '  Well/ 
said  he,  'my  poor  friend,  it  seemed  I  deceived  myself:  my 
claims  have  at  last  been  recognized.' 

"  *  Hardly  worth  while  to  talk  about  claims/  said  I :  '  does 
not  favor  decide  every  thing  here  below  ? ' 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  247 

" '  You  thought  otherwise  yesterday,'  he  answered ;  '  and,  by 
your  own  avowal,  the  unsuccessful  are  only  the  poor  in  wit.' 
He  refrained  from  finishing  his  speech;  but  I  bit  my  lips  with 
spite  at  the  justice  of  his  remark. 

"'For  the  future,'  said  Francisco  with  graceful  dignity, 
'count  on  me.  The  minister  wishes  me  well;  and,  should  any 
vacancy  occur  '  —  I  could  listen  no  longer;  and,  darting  a  dis- 
dainful glance  at  poor  Francisco,  I  turned  my  back  upon  him, 
and  hurried  forward. 

"  Fatigued  at  last  by  desperate  and  aimless  wanderings 
through  the  streets,  I  returned  to  the  hotel,  shut  myself  up  in 
my  chamber,  and  fell  into  philosophic  reflection  upon  what  had 
happened.  '  After  all,'  I  thought, '  why  make  myself  miserable  ? 
My  misfortunes  only  please  the  minister,  who  regards  them  as  a 
kind  of  homage  to  his  power.  In  afflicting  myself,  then,  I  am 
but  the  accomplice  of  his  vengeance.  My  fortune  has  been 
compromised,  it  is  true ;  I  am  without  a  place ;  my  bill  in  this 
hotel  is  unpaid ;  and  I  have  about  cash  enough  left  to  buy  a 
hook  and  a  rope  to  hang  myself  withal :  still  it  is  more  digni- 
fied to  support  my  reverses  manfully.  His  Excellency  doubt- 
less believes  me  now  in  bed,  crushed  by  misfortune,  and  taking 
hartshorn  to  quiet  my  nerves.  Well,  I  will  disappoint  him 
by  passing  a  pleasant  evening.'  So  saying,  I  rang  the  bell 
with  all  the  confidence  of  a  millionnaire. 

"  '  Let  me  have  an  excellent  supper ! '  I  cried  to  the  waiter ; 
'  a  roasted  chichalaka  (pheasant)  and  your  best  wine,  — 
champagne  and  Burgundy.  Above  all,  let  the  supper  be  well 
served.  Go ! ' 

"I  drew  my  curtains,  and  lighted  four  new  wax  candles.  A 
table  was  soon  set  with  bright  crystal  on  snowy  damask,  and  I 
sat  down  to  a  supper  that  would  have  made  a  gourmand  smile 
with  pleasure.  With  the  first  course  my  spirits  revived,  and 
I  convinced  myself  that  the  loss  of  such  a  place  as  that  I  as- 
pired to  was  not  irreparable,  and  that  I  could  obtain  another 
equally  desirable  and  less  onerous. 


248  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

"  At  the  secord  course  I  rejoiced  that  the  minister  had  re- 
fused me  a  place,  in  which,  had  I  accepted  it,  my  high  destinies 
would  have  been  trammelled  by  the  petty  bonds  of  a  subaltern 
employment. 

"  With  the  dessert  I  believed  myself  a  prince  living  in  an 
enchanted  palace,  while  docile  genii  anticipated  all  my  wants, 
and  ministered  to  my  desires. 

"  The  generous  wine  quickened  my  pulses  ;  my  bosom's  lord 
sat  lightly  on  his  throne ;  the  pictures  danced  upon  the  walls ; 
and  the  floor  seemed  to  sway  lightly  under  my  feet  with  a 
dreamy  movement,  like  the  swinging  of  a  grass-hammock. 

"  I  jested  with  the  waiter,  who  seemed  charmed  with  my  wit ; 
and,  finally,  I  tossed  off  my  chasse  and  sallied  into  the  street, 
occupying  the  whole  broad  staircase  in  my  descent.  The  sky 
sparkled  with  the  stars  of  our  charming  tropic  night,  and  I 
thought  that  no  city  could  be  more  beautiful.  The  very  man- 
sions around  me  seemed  illuminated  as  if  for  a  triumph :  joy 
and  benevolence  were  inhaled  with  the  perfumed  air.  I  politely 
saluted  several  passers,  although  they  were  utter  strangers  to 
me.  I  dropped  a  duro  in  the  begging-box  at  the  street-corner ; 
laughed  heartily  at  two  leperos  engaged  in  gambling  for  clacos ; 
and  entered  a  Punch  show,  crowded  with  galopinas  (chamber- 
maids), which  I  soon  deserted  for  the  open  air.  I  walked  rapidly 
for  a  space ;  then  loitered,  and  began  talking  to  myself:  — 

" '  Wine  is  calumniated,'  I  said  with  enthusiasm.  '  It  is 
the  best  of  God's  gifts  to  man.  It  is  not  what  some  fanatics 
would  have  us  believe,  nor  is  its  analysis  what  chemists  assert. 
Wine  is  liquid  sunbeams.  It  is  the  beautiful  sky  and  invigor- 
ating climate  of  Southern  Europe  bottled,  and  brought  to  us 
here  in  the  tropics.  Ah,  celestial  fluid !  it  is  thou  that  re- 
animates the  sinking  heart,  and  transforms  vulgar  brains 
into  festive  halls  in  which  thousands  of  lovely  visions  glide 
through  graceful  dances.' 

"  Musing  after  this  manner,  I  at  length  found  myself  in  the 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  249 

street  of  my  hotel,  entering  it  at  the  side  opposite  to  that  which 
I  had  generally  used.  Pausing  at  what  I  supposed  to  be  the 
door  of  the  hotel,  I  knocked  for  admittance.  A  window  above 
opened  ;  a  head  was  thrust  out,  and  immediately  disappeared  : 
the  door  was  unfastened,  and  an  old  woman  admitted  me.  I 
was  still  distraught,  occupied  indeed  with  thoughts  suggested 
by  my  vinous  dithyrambic,  and  mechanically  ascended  the 
stairway  without  giving  it  special  notice.  Before  I  realized 
my  situation,  I  found  myself  in  a  chamber  not  my  own,  vis-a- 
vis with  La  Rita. 

"  To  have  excused  myself,  alleging  that  I  had  mistaken  the 
house,  would  have  been  the  part  of  a  country  booby :  so  I 
accosted  my  fair  hostess  as  if  I  had  come  to  make  a  call  of 
ceremony.  The  old  woman  disappeared ;  and  I  found  the  young 
girl,  on  a  near  view,  remarkably  handsome.  She  received  me 
graciously ;  and  we  were  soon  engaged  in  animated  conversa- 
tion. 

" '  Cielo ! '  thought  I,  '  this  is  a  worthy  crowning  of  my  even- 
ing's pleasure, — post  Bacchum,  Venus!' 

"Rita  did  not  assume  a  character  not  her  own,  and,  from  the 
discussion  of  general  subjects,  soon  glided  into  excuses  for  the 
life  she  was  leading.  I  was  not  in  a  censorious  humor :  indeed, 
I  re-enforced  her  arguments  in  her  own  defence,  telling  her,  for 
example,  that,  in  ancient  Greece,  women,  her  prototypes,  like 
Aspasia  and  others,  helped  materially  to  form  the  manners  of 
that  cultivated  nation. 

"  After  an  hour  or  more,  I  rose  to  depart.  '  Do  you  remain 
long  in  this  city  ?  '  asked  Rita. 

" '  Alas ! '  said  I,  '  I  thought  so  yesterday :  but  my  hopes  have 
been  blasted;  and  thou,  perhaps,  art  the  cause.' 

"'How  so?' 

"  I  related  my  story. 

"'If  that  is  all,'  said  she,  'I  think  I  can  arrange  matters.  I 
have  hitherto,  as  you  have  seen,  repelled  the  advances  of  his 


2.50  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

Excellency ;  but,  for  thy  sake,  I  will  not  only  give  him  an  inter- 
view, but  will  promise  thee  also  that  thy  wishes  shall  be  granted 
beforehand.' 

"'Indeed!'  returned  I:  'then  art  thou  my  good  angel!' 
And,  bidding  her  good-night,  I  returned  to  my  hotel  with  a 
profound  contempt  for  honest  women. 

"The  next  morning  I  slept  quite  late;  remaining  in  bed, 
indeed,  until  the  servant  brought  me  a  note  from  the  minister 
of  the  interior,  couched  in  the  politest  terms,  and  asking  me 
to  'do  him  the  honor'  to  breakfast  with  him,  so  that  he  could 
explain  himself  upon  the  'misunderstanding'  of  the  day  be- 
fore. I  understood  at  once  from  what  quarter  had  come  the 
change  in  his  sentiments;  and,  while  dressing,  according  to  my 
habitual  custom,  addressed  to  myself  this  monologue  :  — 

" '  So,'  said  I,  '  the  place  I  wished  for  is  to  be  granted,  not 
to  my  talents,  but  to  the  solicitation  of  a  lady  of  the  demi- 
monde. Well,  what  does  it  matter,  since  it  has  been  conceded 
to  the  influence  which  my  person  and  accomplishments  have 
produced  upon  a  woman  ?  Women  are  our  primal  protectors. 
As  infants,  we  are  nourished  from  their  bosoms ;  in  middle  age 
we  are  indebted  to  them  for  the  delights  of  love ;  and,  when  we 
grow  old,  their  care  soothes  our  sufferings,  and  assists  our  in- 
firmities. Is  it  not  more  honorable  and  agreeable  to  owe  one's 
fortune  to  a  young  girl  than  to  some  old  dowager  who  would 
marry  you  against  your  inclinations?' 

"Having  leisurely  performed  my  toilet,  I  set  out  for  the 
house  of  the  minister ;  and,  although  I  knew  that  I  was  much 
belated, — for  I  arrived  long  after  the  hour  specified  in  his 
note,  —  I  felt  no  uneasiness  on  that  account.  The  day  before 
I  appealed  to  the  justice  and  benevolence  of  his  Excellency ; 
now  I  came  recommended  to  his  vices :  so  I  was  not  the  least 
troubled. 

"  The  minister  excused  himself  for  having  asked  me  to 
breakfast  at  so  early  an  hour ;  saying,  that,  upon  a  reperusal 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  251 

of  the  general's  letter,  he  saw  more  in  it  than  had  met  his  eye 
on  its  first  reading,  and  even  recognized  a  mistake  of  persons 
on  his  part.  He  added  some  complimentary  remarks  on  my 
literary  works,  and  announced  that  a  commission  for  the  place 
would  be  issued  to  me  the  same  morning.  On  my  part,  I  gave 
proof  of  an  excellent  appetite ;  flattered  my  host  like  a  man 
of  wit  and  tact ;  approved  of  every  thing  about  him  without 
exaggeration ;  and,  at  the  close  of  the  meal,  left  the  minister 
enchanted  with  my  parts. 

"  As  to  Valdes,  he  could  never  again  get  the  entree  at  the 
minister's ;  and,  after  several  ineffectual  attempts,  he  resigned 
himself  to  his  fate,  and  returned  to  his  village. 

"  When  my  uncle,  the  general,  knew  of  the  appointment  of 
his  nephew,  he  merely  remarked,  '  I  was  sure  of  it :  the  min- 
ister of  the  interior  can  refuse  me  nothing.'  He  wrote,  nev- 
ertheless, to  thank  his  friend,  and  accompanied  the  letter  with 
a  handsome  present. 

"  I  continue  to  keep  on  excellent  terms  with  both  my  patron 
and  La  Rita,  who  also  maintains  her  place  in  his  regard.  His 
Excellency  and  myself  are  frequently  seen  on  horseback  to- 
gether :  and,  thanks  to  his  lessons,  I  have  already  become  a 
tolerable  cavalier;  although  I  thought  I  had  won  a  right  to 
that  distinction  long  before  I  came  to  the  capital,  having  had 
the  usual  experience  of  all  my  countrymen  in  that  exercise. 

"  Perhaps,  my  colonel,  at  the  conclusion  of  my  little  memoir, 
you  would  like  to  know  my  opinion  as  to  the  best  mode  of  suc- 
ceeding in  life  in  our  country,  to  which  my  experience  has 
been  confined.  I  will  tell  you  in  the  words  of  my  invariable 
answer  to  all  young  men  who  question  me  on  that  subject : 
'Merit  is  one's  best  Maecenas  and  patron.'  I  have  always  said 
it,  and  have  proved  it  by  my  own  example.  I  sometimes  add, 
that  it  is  only  in  high  principles  that  one  should  seek  for 
success  and  happiness." 


XXXIII. 


spring  of  the  year  1852  was  now  at  hand,  and  the 
-  time  propitious  for  a  change  to  a  more  northern  climate, 
which,  for  various  reasons,  I  was  desirous  of  making.  About 
this  time,  also,  happened  the  contingency  for  which  I  had  pro- 
vided when  I  accepted  service  in  the  Mexican  army.  This 
was  the  retirement  of  my  excellent  patron  and  friend,  Don 
Mariano  Arista,  from  the  presidency. 

Accordingly,  I  resigned  my  commission,  receiving  on  the 
occasion  numerous  testimonials  both  public  and  private,  and 
prepared  to  leave  the  republic,  in  which  I  had  led  a  somewhat 
eventful  life,  and  had  always  been  treated  with  uniform  kind- 
ness and  hospitality.  Besides  the  sunny  skies,  the  unrivalled 
climate,  and  the  magnificent  scenery,  of  this  portion  of  our 
globe,  so  favored  by  bountiful  Nature,  and  eulogized  by  Hum- 
boldt  as  unique  among  the  countries  he  had  visited,  I  left 
behind  me  many  kind  and  steadfast  friends,  and  a  few  families 
to  whom  I  felt  truly  attached,  and  whom  I  hoped  again  to 
meet. 

There  is  a  nameless  and  indescribable  charm  in  Mexico 
which  holds  every  one  who  has  lived  for  a  term  of  years  within 
its  boundaries,  and  which  begets  a  longing  to  revisit  it  which 
never  fades.  The  Spaniards  who  returned  to  their  own  coun- 
try after  the  revolution  which  separated  the  colonies  from 
Spain  were  especially  aifected  with  this  nostalgia,  we  are 
told;  and  there  is  a  proverb  which  corroborates  the  statement: 

252 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  253 

"  Si  en  Indias  fueres,  sea  en  donde  los  volcanes  vieres  "  ("  If 
you  ever  go  to  the  Indies,  let  it  be  where  the  volcanoes  are"). 

Having  completed  the  preparations  for  my  departure,  I  left 
the  city  in  company  with  a  young  Californian  returning  from 
the  placer  with  a  notable  sum  in  dust,  —  his  two-years'  har- 
vest, —  whose  acquaintance  I  had  made  in  the  capital.  Besides 
ourselves,  there  were  nine  other  passengers  by  the  diligence,  all 
natives  of  the  country,  mostly  commercial  gentlemen  bound 
to  Vera  Cruz.  Not  one  of  them  was  armed ;  for  the  sons  of 
the  country  have  an  idea,  that  to  resist  robbers  only  provokes 
them  to  greater  atrocities. 

All  went  well  with  us  until  we  arrived  at  the  stopping-place 
at  Perote,  where  the  passengers  slept,  on  the  last  stage  to 
Vera  Cruz.  Next  morning,  the  coach  started ;  and  the  nine 
insides,  including  myself,  were  resuming  our  interrupted 
dozings,  when  two  shots  were  heard  in  quick  succession.  The 
coach  stopped:  there  was  some  hard  swearing;  and  all  got 
out  into  the  road. 

There  was  nothing  strange  to  be  seen,  however,  except  two 
dead  bodies  riddled  with  buck-shot,  which  lay,  one  on  each  side 
of  the  highway,  where  they  had  been  tumbled  by  the  right 
and  left  barrels  of  my  fowling-piece,  in  the  hands  of  my  com- 
panion Twichell,  who  was  seated  beside  the  driver. 

The  driver  said  there  was  a  third  person,  and  recognized  one 
of  the  rateros,  (foot-pads),  who  he  said,  the  evening  before,  had 
questioned  him  at  Perote  about  the  passengers  and  their  na- 
tionality. 

These  two  had  seized  the  heads  of  the  leaders  of  our  team, 
while  the  third  man  tried  to  cut  the  traces ;  and  only  the 
prompt  action  of  Twichell  had  saved  the  passengers.  Yet 
they  were  all  highly  indignant  at  my  comrade,  and  myself 
who  sustained  him,  dreading,  as  they  said,  the  revenge  of  the 
robbers.  They  had  come  prepared  for  robbers,  with  pinchbeck 
watches,  and  but  little  money  in  their  pockets.  But  we  only 
22 


254  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

laughed  at  them ;  and  soon  the  coach  began  its  descent  through 
the  defile  of  Cerro  Gordo,  near  which  place  of  glorious  memory 
for  Americans  the  attempt  had  been  made. 

Arriving  in  due  time  at  New  Orleans,  I  was  soon  on  my 
way  up  the  Mississippi,  and  entered  the  "  belle  riviere." 

Among  my  fellow-passengers  on  the  steamer  was  Lieut. 
Thomas  J.  Jackson  of  the  United-States  army,  who  seemed,  at 
first,  a  remarkably  quiet,  reserved,  although  very  intelligent  of- 
ficer, and  with  whom  I  soon  became  acquainted ;  for  there  is 
everywhere  a  sort  of  cameraderie  among  officers  of  the  two  ser- 
vices which  attracts  them  to  each  other  in  a  crowd  of  strangers. 
For  several  days  the  inland  voyage  continued;  and  our  nights 
were  partly  spent  upon  the  hurricane-deck  of  the  steamer, 
engaged  in  conversation. 

One  of  these  conversations  was  so  peculiar,  that  it  fixed 
itself  in  my  memory  ;  and  subsequent  events  proved  it  worthy 
of  record ;  although,  I  confess,  I  hesitate  to  put  in  writing  any 
thing  which  seems  to  border  so  nearly  on  the  marvellous. 

One  clear  starlight  night,  as  we  glided  along  the  calm  river, 
our  conversation  turned  upon  the  firmament  and  its  countless 
orbs  that  looked  down  upon  us.  Jackson  asked  me  if  I  had 
ever  been  induced  to  take  a  flight  from  the  study  of  nautical 
astronomy,  practised  by  all  naval  officers,  into  the  realms  of 
astrology.  I  replied  that  I  had  always  been  interested,  more 
or  less,  in  those  mathematical  studies  required  in  nautical  cal- 
culations ;  and  that,  from  the  exact  rules  demanded  for  working 
the  various  problems  of  the  ephemeris,  I  had  sometimes,  to 
amuse  the  idle  hours  of  a  sea-life,  worked  out  the  nativities  of 
my  shipmates.  I  had  even  taken  Zadkiel's  Almanac,  and  used 
his  rules,  but  without  believing  in  the  science  of  judicial  astrol- 
ogy. Jackson,  however,  was  not  so  incredulous  ;  although  it 
was  evident  that  he  had  not  then  decided  fully  within  himself 
as  to  the  truth  or  falsehood  of  this  exploded  science. 

"  Why,"  said  he,  "  should  we  be  ridiculed  for  believing  in 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  255 

this,  as  in  other  occult  sciences,  in  this  nineteenth  century? 
Magnetism!  magnetic  somnambulism! — who  shall  say  that 
the  science  of  aerostation  will  not  be  made  practically  useful  to 
mankind  ?  Why  should  not  the  buoyant  and  elastic  element 
surrounding  our  earth  be  made  the  vehicle  of  transportation 
from  clime  to  clime  for  man  and  his  increasing  necessities  ? 
I  will  go  farther,  and  ask,  Who  can  doubt  but  that  it  will 
eventually  be  so  used,  like  its  twin-element  upon  which  we 
are  now  afloat  ?  The  means  of  directing  those  forces  which 
we  know  exist  have  not  yet  been  discovered ;  but  that  does 
not  prove  that  the  air  will  not  some  day  find  its  Fulton  or  its 
Watt.  The  imperfect  vision  of  things  often  appears  to  the 
intelligence  before  the  things  themselves.  The  learned  are  free 
to  confess  their  ignorance ;  but  they  should  not  elevate  it  into 
a  principle.  They  may  understand  and  explain  an  immense 
number  of  phenomena ;  but  the  causes  of  these  often  entirely 
escape  them,  or  they  are  compelled  to  take  them  upon  trust  as 
insoluble  mysteries.  Ask  these  savants  the  why  and  the 
wherefore  of  the  natural  actions  they  investigate,  and  they 
assume  a  solemn  air,  and  refer  you  to  the  fabulous  ages  of 
science.  It  is  much  easier  to  deny  any  relation  of  spirits  to 
matter  than  to  demonstrate  it. 

"  If  the  illuminati  of  the  middle  ages  have  not  made  sci- 
ences, at  least  we  cannot  deny  they  have  made  poetry.  Senti- 
ment led  them  into  the  sphere  of  illusion,  it  is  true ;  bub 
illusion  is  often  the  shadow  of  truth.  Let  it  be  remembered 
that  Kepler  was  an  astrologer.  The  mathematician  Cardan 
relates  that  the  events  of  his  life  were  announced  to  him 
through  dreams,  presentiments,  and  apparitions,  by  his  familiar 
genius,  and  by  the  movements  of  the  stars.  And  these  were 
strong-minded  men.  Even  Napoleon  believed  in  his  destiny, 
and  is  said  to  have  carried  his  belief  in  the  supernatural  far- 
ther than  his  historians  will  admit.  Those  bright  orbs  above 
us  are  living  creatures.  Each  one  of  them  is  animated  by  a 


256  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

certain  intelligence  gifted  with  forces,  and  they  act  directly 
upon  our  planet.  Each  ray  of  light  falling  to  earth  finds  its 
destination  in  the  animate  world.  Not  a  living  being,  not  even 
a  flower,  but  has  its  patron  and  guide  on  high  in  one  of  those 
orbs  suspended  in  ether.  Why  should  not  this  wonderful  in- 
fluence transmitted  through  space,  this  communion  of  souls  as 
it  may  be  called,  this  correspondence  of  the  spheres,  forming 
a  universal  bond  of  union,  determine  also  the  destinies  of  the 
beings  they  are  known  to  influence  ?  Whenever  one  of  those 
worlds  approaches  another,  does  not  each  endeavor  to  draw 
the  other  within  the  sphere  of  its  attraction  ?  And  who,  in 
this  day,  will  deny  the  Newtonian  theory? 

"  To  foretell  events,  to  pierce  the  heavy  mist  that  conceals 
from  us  the  secrets  of  fate,  is  a  universal  longing  of  the  human 
heart.  This  longing  is  felt  in  the  hut  of  the  savage  as  well 
as  in  the  palaces  of  the  great.  So  fierce  and  universal  a  de- 
sire must  be  one  of  Nature's  mysteries.  She  has  already 
opened  our  eyes  to  so  many,  it  cannot  be  that  she  means  to 
deceive  us  in  this  one. 

"  If  we  do  not  read  in  the  great  book  eternally  open  before 
us  in  the  skies,  as  we  have  already  done  in  that  book  the  leaves 
of  which  are  in  the  strata  of  the  earth,  it  is  because  we  have 
only  learned  to  spell,  as  yet,  in  the  alphabet  of  mystery." 

Before  we  parted  at  Pittsburg,  a  day  or  two  after  this 
conversation,  I  had  given  Jackson  the  necessary  data  for 
calculating  a  horoscope ;  and,  in  the  course  of  a  few  months, 
I  received  from  him  a  letter,  which  I  preserved,  enclosing  a 
scheme  of  my  nativity.  As  any  one  who  may  have  calcu- 
lated these  schemes  by  the  rules  must  know,  a  horoscope  may 
be  interpreted  in  various,  even  contradictory  terms,  by  differ- 
ent persons;  and  this  was  no  exception  to  the  rule.  The 
only  reason  I  had  for  remembering  it  at  all  was,  that  our 
destinies  seemed  to  run  in  parallel  lines ;  and,  so  far,  it  was 
remarkable.  It  was  this  peculiarity  that  caused  Jackson  to 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  257 

communicate  with  me,  and  the  reason  why  I  laid  it  carefully 
aside  for  a  re-examination. 

The  several  planets  were  placed  in  their  respective  houses 
above  and  below  the  horizon;  and  Saturn  being  near  the 
meridian,  and  approaching  a  square  with  the  moon,  great 
danger  was  to  be  apprehended  by  the  native  at  the  period 
when  the  aspect  became  complete.  Mars  also  bore  a  threat- 
ening aspect ;  while  Jupiter  was  below  the  horizon,  and  semi- 
sextile,  which  was  not  altogether  unfavorable.  There  was  no 
trine,  and  the  sextile  was  weak.  Altogether,  from  the  evil 
aspect  of  the  square  of  Saturn,  which  threatened  an  opposi- 
tion, —  that  most  dreaded  of  all  the  evil  aspects  of  the  heav- 
ens, —  the  scheme  was  quite  dangerous  and  malign. 

The  precise  time  and  nature  of  the  threatened  danger, 
requiring  a  second  calculation,  accompanied  the  scheme,  prog- 
nosticating the  culmination  of  the  malign  aspect  within  some 
ten  years,  or  during  the  first  days  of  May,  1863  ;  at  which 
time  the  native  ran  great  risk  of  life  and  fortunes :  but,  in 
case  he  survived  that  peril,  the  ominous  period  would  never 
again  recur. 

In  his  letter  Jackson  says,  "  I  have  gone  over  these  cal- 
culations several  times,  as  their  result  is  almost  an  exact 
reproduction  of  my  own.  ...  It  is  clear  to  me  that  we  shall 
both  be  exposed  to  a  common  danger  at  the  time  indicated." 

Having  but  little  faith  in  the  almost-forgotten  and  alto- 
gether-repudiated science  of  astrology,  I  took  little  heed  of 
either  his  scheme  of  nativity  or  his  letter,  regarding  the  for- 
mer as  ingenious,  but  as  merely  a  proof  of  an  ardent  and  some- 
what enthusiastic  temperament;  while  I  little  imagined,  at 
that  time,  that  the  rather  unpolished  and  rugged  exterior  of 
Lieut.  Jackson  concealed  a  character  destined  to  become  fa- 
mous among  his  countrymen. 

22* 


XXXIV. 

SOON  after  the  events  of  the  Italian  campaign  of  1858, 
ending  with  the  battle  of  Solferino,  I  found  myself  at 
Strasburg  in  company  with  several  officers  returning  to  Paris, 
who  had  served  either  in  the  French  army,  or  in  that  of  its 
allies  the  Piedmontese.  These  gentlemen  were  of  various 
nationalities  and  ages,  and  met  every  evening  at  the  Cafe  du 
Lion,  where  the  campaign,  and  other  subjects  congenial  to 
military  men,  were  discussed,  according  to  the  custom  in  Con- 
tinental Europe. 

My  particular  comrade  and  friend  was  a  Russian  colonel, 
who  had  served  in  the  artillery  of  King  Victor  Emanuel,  partly 
for  exercise  in  a  professional  way,  and  partly,  I  think,  to  ease 
his  mind  by  an  occasional  shot  at  the  Austrians,  to  whom,  like 
many  of  his  countrymen,  he  certainly  bore  no  good  will.  One 
evening,  the  tables  being  all  filled,  as  we  were  about  to  leave  the 
cafe  to  take  one  on  the  sidewalk,  we  were  politely  invited  by 
an  elderly  officer  with  the  epaulets  of  a  chef  de  bataillon,  and 
wearing  several  orders,  among  which  we  remarked  that  of  the 
iron  crown,  —  now  seldom  seen,  —  to  take  seats  at  his  table. 
Accepting  the  hospitable  invitation,  we  were  soon  at  ease ;  and 
the  conversation  became  quite  animated. 

Military  discipline  happened  to  be  the  theme ;  and  the 
Russian  at  once  vaunted  that  of  his  master  the  czar,  depicting 
the  stolid  devotion  of  the  Russian  private  soldier,  his  perfect 

258 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  259 

submission,  and  total  indifference  to  death,  although  the  army 
is  entirely  recruited  from  the  class  of  serfs. 

I  ventured  to  remark  that  all  this  might  be  true,  but  that 
the  French  soldier  also  possessed  a  deep  sense  of  moral  obliga- 
tion towards  the  necessities  of  discipline ;  and,  in  addition  to 
those  passive  qualities,  had,  usually,  skill  and  knowledge  suf- 
ficient to  enable  him  to  act  when  deprived  of  his  officers,  which, 
possibly,  the  other  could  not  do.  I  also  said  that  I  had  never 
heard  of  any  considerable  mutiny  in  the  French  army  like 
that  of  the  British  navy  at  the  Nore,  for  example ;  or  of  such 
disorganization  as  that  of  the  British  army  at  Badajos. 

The  old  chef  de  bataillon  then  said  it  was  true  that  exam- 
ples of  the  kind  were  very  rare  in  the  French  army,  but  that 
he  had  known  of  one  such  in  his  experience ;  and  that,  if  we 
had  the  patience  to  listen,  he  would  give  us  the  details. 

"  It  happened  in  this  very  city,"  added  the  old  officer ;  "  but 
all  accounts  of  it  were  suppressed  by  the  government  of  the 
time,  and,  as  far  as  I  am  aware,  have  not  as  yet  passed  into  the 
domain  of  history." 

As  I  have  never  met  with  any  account  of  this  transaction, 
I  will  venture  to  transcribe  it  here,  as  given  by  its  narrator:  — 

"  In  the  memorable  year  1815  I  belonged  to  the  Army  of  the 
Rhine,  which,  having  valiantly  fought  during  the  summer  of 
that  year,  fell  back  upon  Strasburg,  numbering  fifteen  thou- 
sand men,  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Count  Rapp. 

"  The  place  was  invested  by  the  Austrians ;  but,  in  consequence 
of  the  political  aspect  just  then,  there  was  a  truce  between  us. 
The  Bourbons  had  returned  under  the  allied  auspices,  and  had 
made  many  concessions,  which  were  unfavorably  regarded  by 
the  army,  among  which  was  the  surrender  of  some  strong 
places  and  a  quantity  of  war  material.  Our  general  also  received 
an  order  to  disband  and  disarm  the  Army  of  the  Rhine ;  which  it 
was  difficult  for  him  to  execute,  there  being  heavy  arrears  due 
the  troops.  After  much  negotiation  with  the  royal  ministers, 


260  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

Rapp  sent  his  chief  of  staff  in  person  to  Paris ;  but  a  deaf  ear 
was  turned  to  his  remonstrances  and  warnings,  and  he  was 
compelled  to  return  with  but  four  hundred  thousand  francs, — 
a  sum  totally  insufficient  to  discharge  the  arrears.  His  arrival 
at  Strasburg  at  once  destroyed  all  hopes  of  a  peaceful  accom- 
modation with  the  troops ;  and,  although  he  succeeded  in  ob- 
taining an  additional  amount  of  a  hundred  and  sixty  thousand 
francs  from  the  municipal  authorities,  the  mutiny  at  once  burst 
forth. 

"  At  eight,  A.  M.,  of  the  2d  of  September,  about  sixty 
non-commissioned  officers  of  the  different  regiments  of  the 
garrison  assembled  in  one  of  the  bastions  of  the  place,  and 
drew  up  a  paper,  stating  that  the  Army  of  the  Rhine  would 
consent  to  obey  the  order  for  its  disbaudment,  only  upon 
the  following  conditions :  viz.,  first,  that  the  officers,  sub- 
officers,  and  privates  should  receive  all  the  pay  due  them  ; 
second,  that  all  should  depart  on  the  same  day,  taking  with 
them  their  arms,  baggage,  and  forty  rounds  of  ball-cartridge 
for  each  soldier. 

"  This  programme  having  been  approved  by  the  meeting  of 
delegates,  five  of  their  number  were  appointed  to  call  upon  the 
commanding  general  in  order  to  communicate  this  unanimous 
decision  of  the  troops. 

"  The  five  delegates  repaired  to  the  palace ;  and,  after  some 
hesitation,  were  admitted  to  the  presence  of  Rapp,  who  received 
them  in  his  bath,  and  listened  to  their  respectful  announce- 
ment until  the  term  '  conditions '  was  mentioned.  This  word 
made  him  furious;  and,  springing  up,  he  exclaimed,  'Condi- 
tions !  You  wish  to  impose  conditions  on  me  ? '  The  anger 
of  the  general  awed  the  delegates,  who  had  not  as  yet  lost  all 
respect  for  authority ;  and  they  took  their  leave. 

"  The  delegation  then  made  their  report  to  the  rest  of  the 
non-commissioned  officers,  about  five  hundred  in  number,  who 
immediately  proceeded  to  adopt  further  measures,  well  knowing 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  261 

that  a  man  like  Rapp  could  never  be  intimidated.  They  had 
already  committed  themselves  by  their  action,  and  felt  that 
they  must  carry  the  affair  to  a  termination  of  some  kind,  if 
they  wished  it  to  be  successful. 

"  Accordingly  they  informed  the  soldiers  of  their  respective 
corps  of  their  repulse,  and  received  from  them  further  instruc- 
tions. The  meeting,  held  upon  the  Place  d'Armes,  unanimously 
resolved  to  depose  their  officers  temporarily;  and,  having 
elected  other  officers  in  their  places  from  the  sub-officers,  chose 
as  chief,  for  the  time  being,  the  sergeant-major  of  the  Seventh 
Light  Infantry.  This  man  was  named  Dalhousie,  of  remote 
Scotch,  but  immediate  French  ancestry,  and  was  well  known 
in  the  army  as  a  person  of  capacity,  courage,  and  a  certain 
soldierly  loquacity  peculiar  to  himself.  Having  been  informed 
of  his  election,  he  addressed  his  comrades  in  the  following 
pithy  speech :  — 

*  '  Comrades !  you  wish  to  be  paid  your  arrears  in  full  ?  Am 
I  right  in  saying  that  is  your  object  in  assembling  here  ?' 

"  '  Yes,  yes  ! '  shouted  all  present. 

"  '  Well,  then,'  said  Dalhousie,  '  if  you  promise  to  obey  me 
implicitly,  to  abstain  from  license  or  disorder,  to  respect  prop- 
erty, and  to  protect  everybody,  I  swear  by  my  head  that  you 
shall  be  paid  to  the  uttermost  farthing  within  twenty-four 
hours ! ' 

"  This  short  allocution  was  received  with  applause ;  and  the 
new  general-in-chief  proceeded  to  officer  the  troops  afresh, 
choosing  the  drum-major  of  the  Fifty-eighth  of  the  line  as  his 
chief  of  staff. 

"  The  troops  then  returned  to  their  barracks. 

"  The  generate  was  then  beaten  ;  and  the  whole  army,  ex- 
cepting the  grand  guards,  pickets,  and  smaller  guards.  — 
cavalry,  artillery,  and  infantry,  —  appeared  upon  the  Place 
d'Armes  in  imposing  array  under  their  new  officers.  Mean- 
while, Gen.  Rapp,  informed  of  the  revolt,  sallied  forth  from 


262  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

his  headquarters,  accompanied  by  his  staff,  and  proceeded  to 
the  same  place  to  stop  the  seditious  movement.  The  opera- 
tions of  the  troops,  however,  had  been  conducted  with  such 
celerity,  that  he  arrived  just  as  the  columns,  followed  by 
the  populace,  were  debouching  upon  the  square  by  all  the 
streets  leading  to  it.  They  were  immediately  formed  in  line  of 
battle  by  battalions  in  mass,  and  commanded  to  fix  bayonets. 
The  cavalry  drew  sabres,  and  two  full  batteries  were  loaded 
with  grape,  before  the  very  eyes  of  the  general. 

"Whenever  Gen.  B-app  attempted  to  address  the  troops, 
his  voice  was  drowned  by  loud  vociferations ;  and  the  guns  were 
kept  trained  upon  him  and  his  staff  as  they  shifted  their 
ground.  One  artillerist,  especially,  adjusted  his  piece  so  care- 
fully and  persistently,  following  every  movement  of  the  gen- 
eral, that  the  latter  advanced,  and  addressed  him  thus :  '  Well, 
miserable,  do  you  wish  to  kill  me  ?  Fire,  if  you  dare  !  Here 
I  am,  at  the  muzzle  of  your  gun  ! '  — '  Ah  !  mon  general,'  cried 
the  soldier,  '  I  was  with  you  at  Dantzic.  I  would  freely  give 
you  my  life;  but  my  comrades  want  their  pay,  and  I  am  com- 
pelled to  act  with  them.'  And  he  ominously  blew  his  port  fire. 

"  It  was  here  in  this  very  square,  gentlemen,"  said  the  old 
officer,  warming  up  with  his  story,  "  that  Count  Rapp,  deaf- 
ened by  the  clamor  of  the  troops,  who  seemed  to  be  intent 
only  upon  preventing  him  from  being  heard,  and  followed  by  a 
tumultuous  throng,  finally  decided  to  return  to  the  palace. 

"The  troops  kept  close  behind  him;  and,  as  soon  as  he  en- 
tered the  gates,  all  the  different  entrances  were  occupied, 
interior  and  exterior  guards  were  detailed  and  posted,  and 
sentinels  doubled  at  every  post,  including  the  staircase  leading 
to  the  general's  private  apartments.  At  the  same  time  the 
telegraph  and  the  military  chest  were  taken  possession  of, 
and  another  guard  sent  to  the  Maison  Rouge,  the  lodging  of 
the  Austrian  general  Volkman,  the  commissioner,  for  his  pro- 
tection. The  drawbridges  were  raised ;  and  all  communication 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  263 

with  the  country  outside  the  place  was  cut  off,  or  permitted 
only  by  passes  signed  by  the  new  commandant.  The  new  chief 
of  staff,  with  a  trumpet,  repaired  to  the  headquarters  of  the 
allied  troops,  and  signified  to  their  general,  that,  while  he  con- 
tinued to  observe  the  truce,  the  garrison  would  use  no  hostile 
act  towards  his  troops ;  but  that,  if  they  attempted  to  profit  by 
the  misunderstanding  between  the  French  general  and  his 
soldiers,  the  latter  would  resist  with  their  whole  force.  Dal- 
housie  established  his  headquarters  upon  the  Place  d'Armes, 
and  created  two  commissions,  —  one  upon  subsistence,  composed 
of  commissary-sergeants ;  and  the  other  upon  finances,  of 
sergeant-majors.  They  were  declared  permanent,  and  deliber- 
ated upon  the  most  suitable  modes  of  maintaining  public 
tranquillity,  and  assuring  the  city  against  the  possibility  of 
surprise  either  from  without  or  within. 

"  The  guards  of  the  citadel  and  of  all  interior  posts  were 
doubled,  and  the  cantonments  outside  the  place  re-enforced. 
The  troops  bivouacked  on  the  public  squares,  and  no  military 
precautions  which  the  most  zealous  prudence  could  suggest  were 
forgotten.  It  was  forbidden  for  a  soldier  to  enter  any  place 
in  which  spirituous  liquors  or  beer  were  sold,  under  pain  of 
death ;  and  the  same  penalty  was  denounced  against  any  one 
guilty  of  pillage,  disorder,  or  insubordination.  In  order  to 
further  assure  the  public  tranquillity,  a  bulletin  was  ordered 
to  be  issued  every  six  hours,  containing  full  information  of  the 
situation  of  affairs.  The  military  chests  were  examined,  and 
estimates  of  the  necessary  sums  required  to  liquidate  the  arrears 
of  pay  made  out  in  full.  Dalhousie  convened  the  municipal 
council,  to  which  he  made  full  representations  of  the  reasons 
which  led  the  army  to  revolt  against  its  superior  officers,  and 
besought  its  members  to  take  counsel  together  upon  the  subject 
of  raising  the  funds  necessary  to  discharge  the  arrears. 

'•  Meanwhile  the  troops  maintained  an  ominous  silence,  hold- 
ing no  conversation  with  their  former  officers  or  with  the 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 


citizens ;  which  conduct,  so  rare  among  French  troops,  occa- 
sioned great  uneasiness,  and  plunged  the  city  into  deep 
despondency. 

"Dalhousie  at  last  received  a  message  from  the  council, 
informing  him  that  they  consented  to  supply  the  necessary 
funds ;  thus  yielding  to  their  fears  what  they  had  refused  to 
prayers. 

"  The  division  and  brigade  generals  and  other  officers  who 
had  been  deprived  of  their  'commands,'  having  made  trouble 
by  their  efforts  to  bring  the  troops  back  to  obedience,  were 
shut  up  in  their  quarters,  and  guarded.  The  citizens  were  at 
last  re-assured  by  the  continued  good  order  which  prevailed 
among  the  troops ;  and  the  following  '  order  of  the  day '  was 
issued :  '  All  goes  well :  the  citizens  have  provided  funds,  and 
the  payments  have  commenced.  (Signed)  GARNISON.' 

"  The  sobriquet  of  Gen.  Gariiison  was  given  to  Dalhousie. 
The  secret  instigators  of  the  insurrection  now  saw  that  the 
expected  riot  and  bloodshed  would  not  be  inaugurated  unless 
they  succeeded  in  exciting  an  entente  among  the  troops :  so 
they  sent  a  chasseur  to  the  Place  d'Armes  to  proclaim  that 
Gen.  Rapp  had  attempted  to  smuggle  money  out  of  the 
place ;  and  that,  in  consequence,  he  must  be  put  to  death  as  a 
traitor.  This  effort  was  defeated.  The  troops  imprisoned 
their  chief  in  order  to  carry  out  their  plans ;  but  they  harbored 
no  animosity  against  him.  His  reputation  as  a  man  of  honor 
remained  intact,  and  his  integrity  was  no  more  doubted  than 
his  courage.  -Such  open  provocation  to  murder  excited  distrust, 
and  the  troops  only  became  more  circumspect.  Similar  efforts 
to  excite  mobs  among  them  failed  of  their  desired  effect,  in- 
cluding a  direct  attempt  to  assassinate  the  general. 

"  An  event  that  occurred  about  the  same  time  did  much  to 
quiet  the  turbulently-disposed  among  the  troops,  and  to  dispose 
them  to  return  to  order.  The  enemy's  line  received  strong  re- 
enforcements,  and  sallied  from  its  cantonments  before  the  place, 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  265 

approaching  the  division  in  observation  without  the  walls. 
This  apparent  concert  between  the  movements  of  the  Austrians 
and  events  within  the  city,  which  it  would  appear  improbable 
they  could  have  been  cognizant  of,  caused  much  speculation 
among  the  garrison.  Re-enforcements  from  the  place  were 
sent  to  the  outside  division,  and  demonstrations  made,  which 
had  the  effect  of  checking  the  hostile  movements  of  the  enemy. 
It  may  be  that  the  Austrians  did  not  care  to  meet  so  redoubt- 
able an  enemy  as  the  Army  of  the  Rhine ;  or  perhaps  they  pre- 
ferred to  await  the  measures  adopted  by  their  partisans  within 
the  walls.  At  any  rate,  the  enemy  returned  to  his  original 
position ;  while  the  garrison  continued,  calmly  and  persistently, 
to  pursue  its  proposed  end,  —  the  payment  of  its  arrears. 
Strasburg  presented  a  spectacle  of  perfect  order  in  the  midst 
of  disorder,  and  of  severe  discipline  maintained  in  an  army  in 
revolt.  Dalhousie  sent  to  Rapp  a  deputation,  composed  of  the 
sergeant-governor  of  the  place  and  six  general  sergeants,  which 
was  received  by  the  general  with  some  asperity.  He  pro- 
nounced them  the  dupes  of  designing  men,  and  unworthy  to 
wear  the  French  uniform.  Their  spokesman  told  Count  Rapp 
that  it  was  true  they  were  in  revolt ;  but  that  the  rest  of  the 
armies  had  been  paid  off,  and  they  only  asked  for  their  just 
dues,  —  the  poor  pittance  for  all  their  sacrifices  of  blood  and  risk 
of  life,  and  which  was  necessary  to  pay  the  expenses  to  their 
homes.  Rapp  answered  that  he  had  represented  their  case  to 
the  ministry,  but  that  he  was  unable  to  procure  more  than  the 
four  hundred  thousand  francs,  which  they  were  welcome  to 
divide  among  the  different  regiments.  This  they  positively 
declined,  saying  that  the  whole  arrears  must  be  liquidated. 
The  interview  was  ended  by  Gen.  Rapp's  ordering  the 
deputation  from  his  presence,  telling  them  he  blushed  at  the 
idea  of  holding  further  discussion  with  mutineers. 

"  It  is  my  belief  that  Rapp  was  annoyed  by  the  news  that 

23 


266  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

his  compatriots,  the  Strasburgers,  had  yielded  to  fear  what 
he  could  not  obtain  from  them  by  entreaty. 

"  At  last  the  loan  was  effected,  the  paymasters  received  the 
money,  and  the  agitation  subsided.  Payments  were  made  to 
the  troops  in  the  usual  form,  which  having  been  completed 
during  the  night,  the  generate  was  again  heard  in  the  morn- 
ing; and  all  the  posts  and  guards  were  withdrawn  from  the 
palace,  while  the  whole  garrison  assembled  on  the  square  as 
before.  Gen.  Garnison  then  read  a  proclamation  addressed  to 
the  soldiers  of  the  Army  of  the  Rhine,  in  which  he  compli- 
mented them  on  their  boldness  in  asserting  their  rights.  This 
boldness  had  compromised  them  with  the  civil  and  military 
authorities ;  but  he  said  that  no  danger  menaced  any  one  in 
consequence,  save  the  sub-officers,  who  had  controlled  the 
revolt  in  order  that  equal  justice  might  be  done  to  all.  He 
then  appealed  to  them  to  preserve  good  order  and  discipline,  in 
order  that  the  sub-officers  might  have  immunity  from  punish- 
ment. It  was  then  announced,  that  having  served  with  honor, 
having  received  their  pay  in  full,  and  being  Frenchmen,  they 
must  deliver  up  their  horses,  arms,  and  government-stores,  and 
submit  themselves  to  the  orders  of  the  king. 

"The  sergeant-general,  Dalhousie,  then  ordered  the  two 
divisions  of  infantry,  the  cavalry,  and  artillery,  to  defile  before 
him ;  and  conducted  the  whole  force  to  the  prefecture,  where 
white  standards  were  distributed  to  the  regiments.  The 
troops  then  returned  to  their  barracks  and  to  the  authority 
of  their  officers,  who  immediately  repaired  to  the  palace  to 
tender  their  congratulations  to  their  general,  Count  Bapp. 

"  Dalhousie  was  there  present ;  and  the  general  generously 
gave  him  a  pardon  in  consideration  of  the  order  and  discipline 
he  had  preserved  while  the  army  was  in  revolt.  I  am  entirely 
ignorant  of  his  after-life.  Thus  ended  a  mutiny  without  prece- 
dent in  our  military  annals.  I  h;ive  never  thought  it  was 
instigated  by  the  Austrians ;  for  they  had  no  motive  for  so 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  267 

doing.  The  Bourbons  were  in  Paris,  the  emperor  a  fugitive, 
and  foreign  diplomats  were  at  the  moment  making  out  the 
new  map  of  humiliated  France.  A  plot  against  the  life 
of  Rapp  seems  yet  more  improbable.  Austria,  it  is  true,  might 
have  desired  to  occupy  Strasburg  temporarily ;  but  the  advan- 
tage would  hardly  have  compensated  for  the  sanguinary  com- 
bat sure  to  have  been  provoked  by  an  attempt  in  that  direc- 
tion. No :  it  appears  to  me  more  simple  and  natural  to  look 
upon  the  whole  affair  as  an  explosion,  a  revindication,  per- 
fectly legal  in  principle,  made  by  men  who  could  not  be 
supposed  to  possess  great  regard  for  the  unknown  power  which 
had  changed  their  colors,  and  which,  to  fill  up  the  measure 
of  its  impolicy,  wished  to  disarm  without  paying  them.  This 
would  have  been  too  great  an  humiliation  for  men  who  had 
performed  their  duties  so  well,  and  who  kept  aloof  from  the 
politics  of  the  day. 

"In  my  opinion,  the  revolt  was  inevitable,  under  all  the 
circumstances  of  the  case ;  but  we  must  admire  the  dis- 
cipline which  triumphed  over  all  its  imminent  peril,  and  se- 
cured to  its  leaders  an  almost  glorious  impunity.  All  this 
illustrated  the  excellent  spirit  which  distinguishes  our  sub-offi- 
cers and  soldiers,  and  which  permits  them  to  respect  a  substi- 
tution of  power  impossible  in  aristocratic  armies." 

In  thanking  the  chef '  de  bataillon  for  his  narration,  we  both 
agreed  that  the  mutiny  of  Strasburg  could  never  have  taken 
place  in  any  other  army  than  the  French  without  degenerating 
into  a  scene  of  fearful  license  and  demoralization ;  and  we 
separated  for  the  night,  with  an  offer  from  the  old  officer  to 
introduce  us  on  the  next  morning  to  another  institution  of  the 
French  army. 

This  was  the  doyenne  of  those  very  useful  ladies,  the  can- 
tinieres,  then  at  the  depot  of  the  fourth  of  the  line,  —  Ma- 
dame Therese  Jourdan,  veuve  Patru,  at  that  time  ninety-five 
years  old,  who,  notwithstanding  her  great  age,  suffered  no  par- 


268  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

ticular  infirmity,  enjoying  all  her  mental  and  physical  facul- 
ties. She  had  entered  that  regiment  as  cantiniere  when  four- 
teen, and  had  never  since  quitted  it.  Her  husband,  Capt. 
Patru,  was  killed  at  Lutzen ;  and  after  his  death  she  had 
resumed  the  bidon,  which  she  had  retained  until  about  three 
years  before  we  saw  her,  her  great  age  no  longer  permitting 
her  to  serve  la,  goutte  to  the  soldiers.  She  enjoyed  a  small 
pension,  contributed  by  the  officers  of  the  fourth,  in  gratitude 
for  her  services  to  the  regiment.  These  services  had  been 
meritorious  and  extensive  indeed ;  for  she  had  been  an  eye- 
witness of  all  the  great  scenes  recorded  in  the  history  of  the 
armies  of  the  republic  and  of  the  first  empire. 


XXXV. 

-OETUBNING  home  in  1860,  one  of  the  last  of  those  o 
JL\  whom  I  took  leave  in  Paris  was  Major  Philip  Kearny. 
"  You  return,"  said  he,  "  to  take  part  in  a  long  and  sangui- 
nary civil  war.  The  men  of  the  South  will  consent  to  no  other 
solution  of  the  questions  at  issue.  For  years  they  have  ac- 
customed themselves  to  the  idea  of  an  inevitable  collision  in 
defence  of  what  they  regard  as  their  constitutional  rights,  as 
set  forth  in  the  pestilential  doctrines  and  impracticable  theo- 
ries of  Calhoun.  Abstractions  they  certainly  are;  but  the 
South  will  expend  all  their  strength  and  wealth  in  their  sup- 
port. The  politicians,  both  North  and  South,  have  so  com- 
plicated the  affairs  of  the  nation  for  their  own  personal  ends, 
that  they  cannot  be  adjusted  by  peaceful  measures.  The 
Gordian  knot  must  be  cut  by  the  sword.  Ignorant  of  the  art 
of  war  in  all  its  varied  aspects  as  are  the  Northern  people; 
despising  every  trained  soldier  as  a  charlatan ;  easily  imposed 
upon  by  the  most  ignorant  pretender  to  skill  and  experience 
in  our  profession,  as  they  must  necessarily  be,  owing  to  their 
lack  of  military  education  and  exercises, — I  have  still  a  pre- 
sentiment that  they  will  emerge  victoriously  from  the  contest. 
I  know  the  Southern  people  well.  I  acknowledge,  that,  man 
for  man,  of  the  two  peoples  —  for  we  are  now  two  distinct 
peoples  —  they  are  the  best  soldiers :  still,  I  know,  that,  in  the 
administration  of  public  affairs,  there  is  nothing  practical  about 
them.  In  the  end,  their  warlike  energies  will  be  wasted  in 

23*  269 


270  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

the  field  from  sheer  ignorance  of  business-matters,  such  as  the 
commissariat  and  its  innumerable  details ;  and  hence  they  will 
gain  nothing  by  the  superior  martial  qualities  of  their  soldiers, 
which  are  undeniable.  Go!  You  will  be  on  the  winning 
side ;  and  I  shall  soon  be  with  you  on  the  other  side  of  the  At- 
lantic. Somehow  we  will  be  triumphant ;  and,  should  we  live 
to  the  end  of  a  three  or  four  years'  war,  we  shall  see  the  coun- 
try settled  on  a  new  basis,  stronger  and  more  united  than 
ever." 

I  quote  these  words  of  Kearny  to  show  the  prevailing  senti- 
ment among  the  old  officers  of  the  army  and  navy  as  to  the 
result  of  the  political  imbroglio,  and  the  probable  duration  of 
the  war.  The  people  of  the  North  could  not  or  would  not 
then  believe  that  any  danger  was  threatened  to  themselves  by 
the  state  of  public  affairs,  and  to  the  last  hour  went  on  with 
their  business  and  social  enjoyments  in  perfect  confidence  that 
they  would  be  left  undisturbed  to  pursue  the  even  tenor  of 
their  way.  They  were  confirmed  in  this  security  by  the  poli- 
ticians intrusted  with  the  government,  who  assured  their  con- 
stituents that  there  would  be  no  war,  or  a  very  little  one ;  and, 
thus  re-assured,  they  kept  on  in  their  usual  avocations  with 
all  the  absorbing  devotion  to  affairs  that  distinguishes  our 
countrymen.  The  conspiracy  grew  and  strengthened  in  the 
Southern  States;  while  the  imbecility  of  the  administration 
encouraged  the  secessionists  to  perfect  all  their  plans  for  a 
vast  insurrection,  until  the  attack  on  Fort  Sumter  aroused  the 
sleeping  North  to  a  sense  of  the  real  condition  of  national 
affairs. 

All  this  has  become  a  part  of  our  annals ;  and  I  shall  con- 
fine myself  to  what  I  saw  and  experienced  in  the  momentous 
events  that  succeeded  the  direct  attack  by  the  Southern  con- 
spirators upon  the  nation's  life,  and  the  consequent  uprising 
of  the  Northern  people.  Stimulated  by  the  attitude  of  the 
North,  the  administration  resorted  to  feeble  and  uncertain 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  271 

measures  for  defence,  while  continuing  to  assure  the  world, 
through  the  medium  of  the  State  department,  that  the  war 
would  be  but  a  trivial  affair  of  sixty  or  ninety  days  at  farthest. 
How  weak  and  contemptible  these  measures  were  was  illus- 
trated in  the  hastily-equipped  and  undisciplined  military  mob 
which  met  its  final  discomfiture  at  Bull  Bun.  This  disgrace- 
ful affair,  however,  made  it  plain  to  the  North  that  the  men  of 
the  South  were  in  terrible  earnest ;  that  soldiers  enlisted  for 
three  months'  service  were  incompetent  to  check  the  insurrec- 
tion ;  and  that  the  much-vaunted  militia-system  could  not  be 
relied  upon  to  furnish  either  officers  or  soldiers  for  regular  war- 
fare. This  latter  national  institution  broke  down  at  once,  for 
the  sufficient  reason  that  it  was  impossible  to  mobilize  it  for 
service,  although  the  people  had  been  told  by  militia  generals 
and  Fourth-of-July  orators,  from  the  time  of  the  Revolution, 
that  it  was  perfect  as  a  system  of  military  defence.  This  was 
believed,  because  it  is  pleasant  to  imagine  that  we  are  all  citi- 
zen-soldiers, subject  to  no  such  requisitions  upon  our  time  and 
personal  service  as  are  made  in  other  countries,  intended  to 
familiarize  the  population  with  the  rudiments  of  the  military 
art,  notwithstanding  the  same  expedient  had  been  tested  and 
failed  in  1812  and  1846. 

True,  the  same  system  prevailed  at  the  South  ;  but  it  must 
be  remembered,  that,  in  that  section,  there  flourished  a  higher 
martial  spirit ;  for  in  the  war  with  Mexico,  fourteen  years  be- 
fore, the  Southern  States  furnished  more  than  forty  thousand 
men  to  the  general  service,  while  only  about  half  that  number 
was  contributed  by  the  more  populous  North. 

The  danger  was  imminent,  and  must  be  met ;  and,  instead 
of  a  useless  domestic  military  organization,  a  system  still  more 
objectionable  was  adopted, — that  of  volunteer  regiments  in 
sufficient  number  to  fill  the  quotas  of  the  several  States,  offi- 
cered by  persons  selected,  not  for  their  professional  skill  or 
experience,  but  according  to  the  pecuniary  aid  they  could  ren- 


272  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

der  in  raising  and  equipping  recruits,  or  their  political  influence. 
Men,  material  of  war,  and  money,  were  lavishly  offered :  for 
the  people  had  said  to  themselves,  "  This  sort  of  thing  must 
stop ; "  and  they  far  outran  the  government  in  war-spirit  and 
determination. 

Like  others  of  my  countrymen,  I  had  already  offered  my 
services  to  the  General  Government ;  but  was  assured  they 
would  not  be  required,  as  no  increase  of  the  navy  was  contem- 
plated. Having  passed  the  age  at  which  my  enlistment  as  a 
private  soldier  could  be  legally  permitted,  and  feeling  bound 
to  aid  my  country  to  the  extent  of  my  ability  in  the  trials  she 
was  about  to  enter  upon,  after  having  been  educated  to  the 
profession  of  arms  in  her  service,  I  tendered  my  service  to  the 
governor  of  the  State  of  my  residence,  and  was  appointed 
colonel  of  the  Seventh  New-Jersey  Volunteer  Infantry. 

I  joined  my  regiment  at  Trenton,  and  was  mustered  into 
the  army  "  for  three  years  or  the  war  "  on  the  31st  August, 
1861 ;  entering  upon  my  duties  immediately  at  the  camp  near 
that  place.  Recruits  came  rapidly  in,  all  men  of  the  best 
class,  — young,  patriotic,  and  athletic,  principally  from  the  agri- 
cultural districts,  —  and  all  eager  to  begin  their  new  career,  and 
to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  the  duties  of  a  soldier.  They  were 
far  superior  to  those  who  enlisted  at  a  subsequent  date,  when 
the  highest  bounties  could  attract  to  the  service  only  inferior 
material.  These  men  seemed  to  be  conscious  that  they  must 
take  the  affairs  of  the  country  into  their  own  hands  in  order 
to  retain  their  liberties,  as  well  as  to  repel  the  charge  of  neg- 
lect of  their  honor  which  had  been  made  against  them. 

My  ranks  were  soon  filled  up  to  the  maximum  strength ; 
and  in  less  than  a  month  we  arrived  in  Washington,  and  en- 
camped on  Meridian  Hill.  Instruction  now  began  in  earnest ; 
and  in  a  few  weeks  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  my  raw 
recruits  transformed  into  tolerably  proficient  soldiers.  I 
applied  at  once  the  principles  of  discipline  I  had  learned  in  a 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  273 

hard  school — the  United-States  navy — firmly  and  uncom- 
promisingly ;  as  I  knew,  that,  once  taught,  they  would  never 
be  forgotten.  No  fault  was  condoned  or  pardoned ;  but  certain 
punishment,  swiftly  and  surely  applied,  followed  every  infrac- 
tion of  the  rules  established  for  the  government  of  the  army. 
In  a  very  short  time  the  men  understood  this :  and  the  result 
was  eminently  satisfactory;  for  punishment  ceased  almost 
entirely.  It  was  very  hard  for  these  young  men  to  stand 
sentinel  for  eight  hours  together  with  loaded  knapsacks,  to  be 
made  "  living  statuary  "  on  a  pork-barrel  for  a  pedestal,  and 
to  endure  other  penalties  known  to  military  discipline ;  but 
the  lessons  of  such  experience  were  lasting,  and  the  recruit 
who  had  once  gone  through  the  course  enjoyed  immunity 
ever  afterwards.  The  general  condition  of  the  army  at  this 
time  was  deplorable ;  and  the  large  force  collected,  although 
of  excellent  raw  material,  but  little  better  than  a  mere  mob. 
Desertion  was  a  common  occurrence  among  officers  as  well  as 
soldiers ;  and  the  streets  of  Washington  were  filled  with  per- 
sons in  uniform,  who,  by  their  reckless  behavior,  evinced  not 
only  total  disregard  of  military  discipline,  but  also  of  the 
claims  of  respectability,  and  even  decency. 

Of  the  regular  officers  of  the  army,  few  had  ever  seen  a 
whole  regiment  together  in  the  field ;  while  their  knowledge 
of  garrison-duty  was  acquired  in  some  frontier  post  in  the  Far 
West,  or  a  fort  occupied  by  two  or  three  companies.  Gen. 
McClellan  was  charged  with  reducing  this  mass  of  heteroge- 
neous elements  to  order;  and  he  accomplished  his  task  in 
about  three  months,  converting  the  mob  into  an  efficient  and 
disciplined  army.  When  he  assumed  command  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1861,  the  troops  in  and  around  Washington  consisted 
of  about  fifty  thousand  infantry,  seven  hundred  cavalry,  and 
six  hundred  artillerymen,  with  thirty  guns ;  while  their  only 
organization  was  the  same  defective  one  of  "provisional  bri- 
gades "  as  at  Bull  Run.  There  was  literally  no  nucleus  of 


274  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

regulars  to  form  upon  ;  for  the  army  had  been  utterly  disor- 
ganized by  secession.  It  was  necessary,  therefore,  to  begin  ab 
iniiioj  to  form  an  army  on  a  scale  which  the  nation  had  never 
dreamed  of.  To  say  that  McClellan  acquitted  himself  cred- 
itably in  this  colossal  work  is  to  accord  him  scant  justice :  for 
the  fact  is,  that  his  achievement  was  one  which  entitles  him  to 
a  place  in  the  first  rank  of  soldiers  ;  and  its  excellent  results 
were  apparent  in  the  army  up  to  its  final  dissolution. 

He  at  once  established  a  stringent  police-system,  applying 
it  to  all  ranks ;  sent  inefficient  and  objectionable  officers  before 
boards  of  examination  ;  instituted  a  course  of  instruction ;  and 
kept  the  troops  in  their  respective  camps  and  posts.  Grand 
guards  and  picket-duty  was  regularly  performed ;  and,  in 
course  of  time,  the  troops  offered  a  creditable  spectacle  to  the 
military  critic.  Without  dwelling  on  this  subject,  let  it  suf- 
fice to  say,  that,  at  the  end  of  three  months,  McClellan  found 
himself  at  the  head  of  an  efficient  army  of  a  hundred  thou- 
sand infantry,  ten  thousand  cavalry,  and  twelve  thousand  ar- 
tillerymen, with  five  hundred  guns.  There  was,  besides,  an 
engineer-corps  with  pontoon  and  wagon  trains,  conducted  by 
competent  officers  of  the  quartermaster  and  commissary  de- 
partments ;  and  the  ordnance  was  abundantly  supplied  with 
reserve  ammunition  and  supply-trains.  This  bare  statement 
of  the  enormous  amount  of  labor  achieved  in  an  incredibly 
short  space  of  time  hardly  conveys  an  adequate  idea  of  its 
proportions,  except  to  practical  military  men ;  and,  for  this 
reason,  McClellan's  reputation  is  higher  abroad  than  at  home. 
What  I  have  summed  up  here  by  no  means  comprises  all  this 
intelligent  officer's  labors  in  the  period  named ;  for  a  system 
of  defences  was  planned  and  executed  under  his  direction,  by 
which  Washington  was  completely  covered  from  attack,  the 
works  forming  a  line  of  circumvallation  over  thirty-three 
miles  in  extent.  These  earthworks  —  consisting  of  detached 
and  engaged  fortifications  connected  with  curtains,  provided 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  275 

with  bastions,  redoubts,  and  wide  ditches — were  armed  with 
heavy  cannon,  and  were  estimated  for  a  garrison  of  seventy 
thousand  men.  Later  they  saved  the  capital  from  capture 
by  the  confederates,  and  permitted  Grant  to  keep  a  tight 
grasp  upon  the  throat  of  the  waning  insurrection  before 
Petersburg,  without  weakening  his  army  by  detaching  troops 
for  the  defence  of  Washington. 

In  point  of  discipline  and  organization,  the  Army  of  the 
Potomac  made  no  improvement  under  the  successors  of  Mc- 
Clellan,  although  it  achieved  more  decisive  results  in  the 
field :  and  we  have  the  emphatic  declaration  of  the  most  illus- 
trious of  them,  —  Meade,  —  that,  "  had  there  been  no  Mc- 
Clellan,  there  could  have  been  no  Grant ;  for  the  former 
fashioned  the  weapons  with  which  the  work  was  performed." 

At  this  point  I  have  thought  it  best  to  close  the  record  of 
my  military  service.  The  career  of  the  Army  of  the  Poto- 
mac is  matter  of  history ;  and  I  could  add  little  to  the  nume- 
rous and  detailed  accounts  of  its  sufferings  and  its  triumphs. 
But  there  is  another  and  more  potent  reason  which  bids  me 
pause  here.  I  could  not  tell  the  story  of  my  connection  with 
that  army  with  the  judicial  impartiality  which  should  charac- 
terize the  historian  and  the  narrator  of  grave  events.  I 
could  not  withhold  denunciation  of  incompetency  and  per- 
fidy. I  could  not  write  of  the  first  two  years  of  the  war  with- 
out giving  utterance  to  righteous  indignation,  aroused  by  the 
wickedness  of  men  in  high  places,  which  hampered  the 
army,  and  protracted  the  civil  strife  far  beyond  its  necessary 
limits. 

I  served  in  the  army  until  after  the  battle  of  Chancellors- 
ville,  participating  in  all  its  important  engagements,  and,  the 
greater  part  of  the  time,  commanding  a  brigade.  At  the  battle 
above  named,  I  was  an  involuntary  witness  of  an  event  which 
had  an  important  bearing  on  the  issue  of  the  war,  and  which 
has  been  the  subject  of  prolonged  controversy.  I  refer  to  the 


276  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

death  of  Stonewall  Jackson.  The  circumstances  under  which 
I  acquired  the  right  to  give  testimony  in  the  matter  were  some- 
what remarkable  ;  and  I  here  give  a  full  statement  of  them. 

The  left  of  my  brigade-line  lay  near  the  plank-road  at  Chan- 
cellorsville ;  and,  after  night  had  fallen,  I  rode  forward,  ac- 
cording to  my  invariable  habit,  to  inspect  my  picket-line.  The 
moon  had  risen,  and  partially  illuminated  the  woods.  I  began 
my  inspection  on  the  right  of  the  picket-line,  progressing  grad- 
ually to  the  left,  where  I  stopped  to  rectify  the  post  of  a  sentinel 
not  far  from  the  plank-road.  While  thus  engaged,  I  heard  the 
sound  of  hoofs  from  the  direction  of  the  enemy's  line,  and 
paused  to  listen.  Soon  a  cavalcade  appeared  approaching  us. 
The  foremost  horseman  detached  himself  from  the  main  body, 
which  halted  not  far  from  us,  and,  riding  cautiously  nearer, 
seemed  to  try  to  pierce  the  gloom.  He  was  so  close  to  us,  that 
the  soldier  nearest  me  levelled  his  rifle  for  a  shot  at  him  ;  but  I 
forbade  him,  as  I  did  not  wish  to  have  our  position  revealed  ; 
and  it  would  have  been  useless  to  kill  the  man,  whom  I  judged 
to  be  a  staff-officer  making  a  reconnoissance. 

Having  completed  his  observations,  this  person  rejoined  the 
group  in  his  rear,  and  all  returned  at  a  gallop.  The  clatter  of 
hoofs  soon  ceased  to  be  audible ;  and  the  silence  of  the  night 
was  unbroken,  save  by  the  melancholy  cries  of  the  whippoorwill, 
which  were  heard  in  one  continued  wail,  like  spirit-voices; 
when  the  horizon  was  lighted  up  by  a  sudden  flash  in  the 
direction  of  the  enemy,  succeeded  by  the  well-known  rattle  of 
a  volley  of  musketry  from  at  least  a  battalion.  A  second  volley 
quickly  followed  the  first ;  and  I  heard  cries  in  the  same  direc- 
tion. 

Fearing  that  some  of  our  troops  might  be  in  that  locality, 
and  that  there  was  danger  of  our  firing  upon  friends,  I  left  my 
orderly,  and  rode  towards  the  confederate  lines. 

A  riderless  horse  dashed  past  me  towards  our  lines  ;  and  I 
reined  up  in  presence  of  a  group  of  several  persons  gathered 


KEEL  AND  SADDLE.  277 

around  a  man  lying  on  the  ground,  apparently  badly  wounded. 
I  saw  at  once  that  these  were  confederate  officers,  and  visions 
of  the  Libby  began  to  flit  through  my  mind ;  but  reflecting 
that  I  was  well  armed  and  mounted,  and  that  I  had  on  the 
great-coat  of  a  private  soldier  such  as  was  worn  by  both  par- 
ties, I  sat  still,  regarding  the  group  in  silence,  but  prepared  to 
use  either  my  spurs  or  my  sabre,  as  occasion  might  demand. 

The  silence  was  broken  by  one  of  the  confederates,  who  ap- 
peared to  regard  me  with  astonishment :  then,  speaking  in  a 
tone  of  authority,  he  ordered  me  to  "  ride  up  there  and  see  what 
troops  those  were,"  indicating  the  rebel  position.  I  instantly 
made  a  gesture  of  assent,  and  rode  slowly  in  the  direction  indi- 
cated, until  out  of  sight  of  the  group  ;  then  made  a  circuit  round 
it,  and  returned  within  my  own  lines.  Just  as  I  had  answered 
the  challenge  of  our  picket,  the  section  of  our  artillery  posted 
on  the  plank-road  began  firing ;  and  I  could  plainly  hear  the 
grape  crashing  through  the  trees  near  the  spot  occupied  by  the 
group  of  confederate  officers. 

About  a  fortnight  afterwards,  I  saw  a  Richmond  newspaper 
at  the  camp  at  Falmouth,  in  which  were  detailed  the  circum- 
stances of  the  death  of  Stonewall  Jackson.  These  left  no  doubt 
in  my  own  mind  that  the  person  I  had  seen  lying  on  the 
ground  was  that  officer,  and  that  his  singular  prediction  — 
mentioned  previously  in  these  pages  —  had  been  verified. 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  the  newspaper  account :  — 

"  Gen.  Jackson,  having  gone  some  distance  in  front  of  his 
line  on  Saturday  evening,  was  returning  about  eight  o'clock, 
attended  by  his  staff.  The  cavalcade  was,  in  the  darkness, 
mistaken  for  a  body  of  the  enemy's  cavalry,  and  fired  on  by  a 
regiment  of  his  own  corps." 

Then,  after  detailing  what  took  place  after  the  general  fell 
from  his  horse,  the  account  proceeds :  — 

"  The  turnpike  was  utterly  deserted,  with  the  exception  of 
Capts.  Wilbourn  and  Wynn ;  but,  in  the  skirting  of  thicket  on 
24 


278  KEEL  AND  SADDLE. 

the  left,  some  person  was  observed  by  the  side  of  the  wood, 
sitting  his  horse  motionless  and  silent.  The  unknown  indi- 
vidual was  clad  in  a  dark  dress,  which  strongly  resembled 
the  federal  uniform ;  but  it  seemed  impossible  that  he  could 
have  penetrated  to  that  spot  without  being  discovered,  and 
what  followed  seemed  to  prove  that  he  belonged  to  the  con- 
federates. Capt.  Wilbourn  directed  him  to  ride  up  there 
and  see  what  troops  those  were,  —  the  men  who  fired  on  Jack- 
son; and  the  stranger  rode  slowly  in  the  direction  pointed 
out,  but  never  returned  with  any  answer.  Who  this  silent 
personage  was  is  left  to  posterity,"  &c.  —  Richmond  Enquirer, 
May  12,  1863. 

Jackson's  death  happened  in  strange  coincidence  with  his 
horoscopic  prediction  made  years  before :  but  the  coincidence 
was,  I  believe,  merely  fortuitous ;  and  I  mention  it  here  only 
to  show  what  mysterious  "  givings-out "  we  sometimes  experi- 
ence in  life. 


PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 


279 


PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 


AFTER  the  disastrous  repulse  of  Burnside  before  the 
confederate  works  at  Fredericksburg,  the  Army  of  the 
Potomac  returned  to  its  cantonments  in  Stafford  County,  Va. ; 
and  the  work  of  its  re-organization  began  under  Hooker,  who 
had  succeeded  to  the  command  only  to  repeat  the  blunders  of 
his  predecessor  at  Chancellorsville. 

The  place  chosen  for  the  winter  encampment  of  the  army 
was  a  cul  de  sac  between  the  embouchures  of  the  Potomac  and 
the  Rappahannock ;  which  rivers  formed  the  two  sides  of  a  tri- 
angle, of  which  it  was  necessary  to  guard  the  base  only  to  be 
perfectly  safe  from  an  attack.  The  disadvantage  of  the  position 
was,  that  the  army  could  not  leave  it  without  crossing  the  wide 
and  deep  Rappahannock,  the  fords  of  which  were  all  carefully 
guarded  by  the  vigilant  enemy. 

The  country  north  and  east  of  Fredericksburg  was  guarded 
by  a  strong  picket-force  of  our  troops,  extending  from  the 
Rappahannock  to  the  Potomac ;  while  our  cavalry  patrolled  its 
front  for  twenty  miles  along  the  left  bank  of  the  former  river. 

Picket-duty  was  performed  in  turn  by  detachments  from  all 
the  corps  of  the  army,  comprising  a  brigade  of  infantry ;  and 
a  general  commanded  the  whole  grand  guard,  whose  temporary 
headquarters  were  at  a  farm-house  a  few  hundred  yards  to  the 
rear  of  the  line. 

Fires,  and  smoking  even,  being  forbidden  while  on  picket- 

24*  281 


282  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

duty  at  the  advanced  posts,  a  pipe  was  invented  by  some  in- 
genious soldier,  the  muzzle  of  which  was  turned  down,  instead 
of  upward,  as  in  ordinary  pipes ;  and,  this  being  covered,  no 
fire  was  visible  to  any  person  in  the  vicinity  of  the  smoker. 
These  were  called  picket-pipes  ;  and  were  skilfully  carved  by 
the  men  from  laurel-roots,  and  from  a  soft  white  stone  com- 
mon in  that  region. 

The  farmhouse  mentioned  was  resorted  to  by  the  loungers  on 
picket-duty ;  and  beneath  its  roof  many  a  thrilling  tale  of  ad- 
venture on  the  debatable  ground  in  our  front,  travelled  in 
every  direction  by  our  scouts  and  outpost  patrols,  and  those 
of  the  enemy,  was  told  to  eager  hearers. 

Story-telling  is  a  favorite  amusement  both  of  soldiers  and 
sailors  in  their  idle  moments;  and  a  skilful  narrator  is  sure  of 
attentive  and  interested  listeners  in  such  an  audience,  espe- 
cially if  he  relates  his  own  personal  experiences,  as  not  un- 
commonly happens. 

I  have  often  regretted  that  I  did  not  take  notes  of  many 
"  yarns  "  I  have  thus  heard  from  the  lips  of  some  who  possessed 
the  talent  of  story-telling  not  inferior  to  that  of  the  Eastern 
professional  raconteurs  I  have  often  seen  in  the  coffee-houses  of 
the  Levant,  whose  language  I  could  not  understand,  but  whose 
graceful  and  vivid  pantomime  could  hardly  be  misinterpreted. 

One  fine  moonlight  night  at  my  headquarters,  during  my 
turn  of  duty  on  picket,  a  group  of  officers  were  enjoying  their 
pipes,  when  it  was  proposed  to  vary  the  evening's  amusements 
by  story-telling,  —  it  being  stipulated  that  each  one  should 
draw  upon  his  own  experience  for  his  material ;  and,  the  party 
being  tired  of  euchre  and  other  games,  the  proposition  was 
received  with  universal  favor. 

As  in  military  councils  and  court-martials,  the  youngest  was 
deputed  to  speak  first;  and  a  young  lieutenant  of  artillery 
accordingly  began,  with  the  usual  apologies  of  youth  and 
inexperience,  as  follows :  — 


THE    LIEUTENANT'S   STORY. 

~T~  IKE  most  of  my  comrades  in  the  volunteer  army,  I  was 
,  I  J  not  brought  up  to  the  military  profession,  hut  adopted  it 
under  pressure  of  the  times  which  have  found  us  all  so  un- 
prepared. Indeed,  I  may  say  that  I  never  have  thought  seri- 
ously of  adopting  any  career  involving  great  trials,  hazards, 
and  privations  ;  least  of  all,  the  army. 

After  finishing  my  education,  I  passed  the  time  as  agree- 
ably as  I  could  at  home  and  abroad,  without  a  thought  that  my 
idling  was  ever  to  end,  or  our  country  to  be  disturbed  in  its 
seeming  ease  and  quietude. 

Only  the  year  before  the  breaking-out  of  this  war,  being  in 
Paris,  I  lodged  at  the  Hotel  de  Bade  on  the  Italian  Boulevard, 
where  I  met  persons  of  an  entirely  different  class  from  those 
who  frequent  those  caravanceras  in  which  Americans  delight 
to  spend  their  time  and  their  apparently  inexhaustible  sup- 
plies of  ready  money,  without,  I  fear,  receiving  in  return  a 
quid  pro  quo,  in  most  cases. 

Strange  to  say,  I  had  never,  as  yet,  witnessed  a  scene  said 
to  be  the  gayest  in  the  world,  and  which  every  one  who  visits 
the  rollicking  French  capital  is  familiar  with  from  the  start, 
stranger  or  Frenchman,  although  I  had  been  for  several  years 
an  habitue  of  Paris. 

The  truth  is,  I  had  most  agreeable  society  at  my  command, 
and  cared  not  to  resort  to  public  amusements  to  pass  away 
time,  then  of  some  value  to  me,  employed  as  I  was  in  acquir- 

283 


284  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

ing  educational  and  social  information,  varied  by  amusements 
peculiar  to  the  French  people,  but  hardly  appreciated  by  for- 
eigners. Shall  I  say  that  the  latter  are  hardly  sufficiently 
advanced  in  civilization  to  profit  by  the  advantages  alluded  to? 
the  majority,  at  least,  of  those  who  visit  France  in  the  capacity 
of  ordinary  tourists. 

I  had  heard  among  my  acquaintances  that  intrigue  of  the 
old  sort  —  that  of  which  we  read  in  works  of  fiction  and  the 
like  —  was  dead  at  present  in  Paris,  and  that  new  fashions 
had  taken  place  of  the  old  modes,  not  only  in  dress,  but  in 
manners. 

It  was,  then,  simple  curiosity,  or  that  indefinable  feeling 
which  moves  us  toward  any  thing  unknown  or  mysterious,  that 
impelled  my  steps  to  the  Rue  Lepelletier,  to  witness,  for  the 
first  time,  the  great  bal  d' opera.  I  entered  the  salle  soon 
after  its  opening  at  midnight.  I  was  in  plain  evening-dress, 
and,  of  course,  unmasked ;  and  strolled  about  for  some  hours, 
amused  and  diverted  by  the  motley  scenes  around  me,  the 
grotesqueness  of  the  maskers,  and  the  vigorous  and  exagger- 
ated style  of  the  dancers,  —  whole  quadrilles  seeming  to  have 
lost  their  senses. 

Soon  wearying  of  these  gymnastics,  imported  from  the  Latin 
quarter,  and  that  of  Breda,  I  strolled  out  into  the  lobby. 

At  the  door  I  was  detained  by  a  crowd  of  revellers ;  and  on 
the  domino  of  one  of  them  —  a  female  masker  —  my  button 
became  so  entangled,  that  it  was  necessary  to  tear  it  (the  fabric) 
in  order  to  extricate  ourselves.  The  fair  mask  herself  gave 
me  the  needed  assistance,  and  endured  the  tearing  of  the  rich 
texture  without  a  protest,  as  if  it  were  indifferent  to  her.  I 
had  already  seen  enough  of  the  ball.  The  mien  of  the  masker 
interested  me.  We  exchanged  a  few  words,  which  convinced 
me  of  her  intelligence ;  and,  willing  to  be  amused,  I  finished 
by  offering  my  arm,  which  was  accepted  with  nonchalance, 
rather  unpropitious,  I  thought,  for  the  perfection  of  a  better 
acquaintance. 


THE  LIEUTENANT'S  STORY.  285 

We  finally  took  seats  in  a  cabinet  occupied  by  a  few  couples, 
who  seemed  entirely  too  much  interested  in  their  own  affairs 
to  desire  to  interfere  with  our  privacy.  For  my  part,  I  im- 
agined that  my  fair  partner  was  of  that  large  and  influential 
class  in  Paris  whose  proverbial  extravagance  and  "  speed " 
have  won  for  them  a  name  of  which  I  could  never  see  the 
aptness,  —  the  "  half-world." 

I  could  now  examine  at  leisure  the  appearance  of  my  com- 
panion, so  far  as  it  was  not  concealed  by  her  mask  and  the 
folds  of  her  domino.  I  could  see  that  she  was  tall  and  slen- 
der, and  that  her  movements  were  undulating  and  full  of 
grace.  Her  toilet  was  admirable,  although  severely  simple. 
Her  domino  was  of  black  satin,  the  camail  trimmed  with  ex- 
quisite lace,  — the  fairy  net  which  had  caught  me  at  first, — 
and  her  mask  of  the  same,  with  a  thick  barbe,  through  which 
I  could  see  neither  her  hair,  nor  even  the  tint  of  her  com- 
plexion. 

She  was  irreproachably  gantee,  and  her  small  feet  delicately 
shod  with  slippers  that  might  have  been  worn  by  Cinderella. 
Her  air  was  that  of  a  woman,  not  of  the  half,  but  of  the  whole 
world,  who  was  accustomed  to  good  society,  and  unfamiliar 
with  these  assemblies.  We  began  to  converse ;  and,  to  my 
astonishment,  I  found  that  my  name  and  country  were  not 
unknown  to  her.  However,  I  would  deny  neither :  indeed,  I 
saw  it  would  have  been  useless. 

The  lady  knew  me,  as  the  saying  is,  "  like  a  book,"  and 
sketched  my  character  and  some  of  the  incidents  of  my  life ; 
urged  me  to  correct  certain  faults  she  pointed  out  to  me,  and 
of  whose  existence  I  was  fully  conscious ;  and,  in  short,  gave  me 
most  excellent  advice,  without  inflicting  a  single  wound  on 
my  amour  propre. 

Every  trace  of  hesitation  and  apathy  soon  disappeared ;  and 
she  showed  such  sagacity,  such  refinement,  such  delicacy  of 
expression  and  of  feeling,  that  I  was  stupefied. 


286  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

Gliding  from  topic  to  topic,  she  passed  in  review  society, 
literature,  the  opera,  and  the  publicists  of  the  day,  relating 
many  anecdotes  apropos  of  each,  and  uttering  the  most  spar- 
kling witticisms  with  a  grace  of  attitude  and  manner  quite 
irresistible. 

Dazzled  by  such  brilliancy,  I  kept  silence,  and  merely  list- 
ened in  delighted  wonder. 

"  Is  it  possible  that  I  do  not  know  you,  —  you  who  know  me 
so  well  ?  "  I  said  at  length,  impatient  of  my  enforced  passive- 
ness  in  our  tete-a-tete. 

"  You  do  not  know  me,  I  assure  you,"  returned  the  mask. 
"  If  I  should  show  you  my  face,  you  would  see  it  for  the  first 
time." 

"Where,  then,  have  you  learned  what  you  have  revealed  to 
me  ?  Are  you  a  sorceress  ?  " 

"Perhaps;  or  I  may  have  divined  what  I  have  said  to  you 
by  my  knowledge  of  human  nature.  Do  you  fancy  yourself 
the  only  object  of  my  study  ?  "• 

I  did  not  dare  to  discuss  the  question  ;  and  the  demand  gave 
me  no  time  to  reply  in  fitting  terms. 

She  changed  the  subject,  opened  a  new  chapter,  and  exhib- 
ited herself  under  a  new  face.  Never  did  chameleon  change 
more  quickly,  or  with  better  effect.  Engrossed  by  the  con- 
versation, I  heeded  not  the  jests  of  the  passers,  nor  replied  to 
several  direct  attacks  by  the  merry  maskers ;  and,  when  the 
last  harlequin  and  pierrot  retired  arm  in  arm,  was  startled  to 
hear  an  intimation  that  the  ball  had  closed,  and  that  it  was 
necessary  for  us  to  withdraw. 

"  Already  I "  exclaimed  my  new  acquaintance. 

We  had  been  talking  for  five  hours. 

"  Permit  me  to  see  you  home  ?  "  I  said. 

"  Impossible  ! " 

"  Shall  I  never  see  you  again  ?  " 

« I  will  think  of  it." 


THE  LIEUTENANT'S  STORY.  287 

"  You  will  not  tell  me  who  you  are  ?  " 

She  made  a  gesture  of  negation. 

"  Ah,  cruel  one !  you  take  possession  of  me,  turn  my  head, 
and  then  ahandon  me  as  a  child  throws  away  a  toy  of  which 
he  is  weary.  Well,  I  shall  not  submit.  I  will  follow  you, 
learn  who  you  are,  and  force  you  to  avow  yourself,  to  receive 
me,  to  love  me.  After  such  a  delightful  evening  as  we  have 
passed  together,  I  cannot  look  forward  to  indifference  and 
oblivion  between  us.  Decide,  then,  and  accept  my  escort,  or 
I  will  force  it  upon  you  !  Come,  decide  ! " 

"  You  would  not  do  that,  I  am  sure ;  but,  if  you  did,  I  should 
succeed  in  evading  you.  On  the  contrary,  you  must  leave  me 
here  free,  and  give  your  word  of  honor  not  to  seek  to  know 
me,  or  who  I  am :  in  that  case,  I  will  make  you  two  conces- 
sions greater  than  you  could  have  hoped  for;  although,  indeed, 
I  had  long  since  resolved  to  grant  them  when  you  had  earned 
them." 

"  What  are  they  ?  " 

"  I  will  return  here  next  Saturday ;  and  I  will  give  you  my 
portrait  until  then.  You  can  look  at  it  when  I  am  no  longer 
near  you.  Do  you  consent  ?  " 

I  made  her  repeat  thrice  the  promise  to  return.  I  received 
from  her  hand  a  card  photograph  in  a  sealed  and  perfumed 
envelope ;  and,  such  was  my  eagerness  to  behold  the  linea- 
ments hidden  by  the  mask,  that  I  rushed  towards  a  gas- 
burner,  and  tore  open  the  envelope.  The  original  took  advan- 
tage of  my  movement,  and  disappeared  in  the  dense  crowd 
hastening  towards  the  entrance  of  the  opera.  After  a  hasty 
glance  at  the  portrait,  I  returned  to  the  spot  where  I  had  left 
my  companion ;  but  she  was  already  gone,  and  a  search  for 
her  would  have  been  hopeless. 

I  went  to  the  Cafe  Cardinal  on  the  Boulevard,  and  drew 
forth  my  picture  again.  I  was  stupefied  by  my  good  fortune. 
The  portrait  represented  a  most  lovely  and  bewitching  face  and 


288  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

form,  —  a  poet's  dream.  "  Thanks  to  Minerva  and  to  Venus ! "  I 
said  under  my  breath.  Such  a  divine  face,  and  such  an 
intellect !  I  could  hardly  believe  it  possible ;  yet  here  was 
the  ocular  proof.  Like  a  miser,  I  bore  my  treasure  home,  and 
tried  to  sleep.  I  could  not.  I  gazed  again  and  again  at  the 
beautiful  face,  recalled  the  five  hours  that  had  sped  so  quickly, 
and  decided  that  I  could  not  wait  a  week  to  see  my  inamorata. 
I  must  discover  her  immediately,  or  lose  my  senses. 

You  may  laugh,  gentlemen,  but  most  of  you  know  not  the 
fierce  ebullitions  of  the  sang  Gaulois  in  the  veins  of  a  youth 
of  nineteen.  Now,  indeed,  I  should  patiently  wait  for  the 
rendezvous  a  week,  perhaps  a  fortnight. 

Next  morning,  taking  with  me  the  precious  photograph,  I 
visited  three  somnambulists  and  two  clairvoyants.  Each  told 
me  a  different  story,  and  sent  me  in  different  directions  to 
search  for  my  mysterious  beauty.  I  must  try  again.  The 
card  I  received  did  not  bear  the  name  of  the  photographer ; 
but  it  must  have  been  made  at  some  one  of  the  several 
fashionable  establishments  of  Paris.  I  visited  them  all. 
First,  Nadar.  I  had  no  eyes  for  the  curiosities  and  marvels 
assembled  in  his  atelier,  which  is  one  of  the  sights  of  Paris  ; 
no  admiration  for  any  other  beauties  than  those  of  my  mis- 
tress. I  drew  out  my  carte  de  visite ;  asked  the  master 
whether  it  was  his  work,  and  whether  he  could  name  the 
original  of  the  picture,  or  give  me  any  other  information 
concerning  it. 

"  Monsieur,"  said  the  artist,  "  if  I  made  this  portrait,  and 
did  not  sign  it,  as  is  my  usual  custom,  I  must  have  done  so  for 
especial  reasons  :  if  I  did  not  make  it,  I  have  no  right  to 
claim  the  merit  of  its  production.  You  understand  ?  I  regret 
to  say  that  I  cannot  reply  to  your  question.  As  to  naming  the 
person  you  desire  to  know,  that  would  be  still  more  out  of  the 
question.  We  are  a  sort  of  father-confessors,  we  photographers, 
and  never  reveal  the  secrets  confided  to  us.  I  am  indeed  de- 


THE  LIEUTENANT'S  STORY.  289 

sole  that  I  cannot  oblige  you ;  but  a  little  reflection  will  con- 
vince you  that  I  am  quite  in  the  line  of  duty." 

From  Disderi,  from  Ken,  from  Dagron,  I  received  the  same 
answer  in  substance ;  and  my  visits  to  other  establishments 
had  no  more  encouraging  results.  I  went  home  in  despair. 

Where  or  to  whom  should  I  address  myself  for  a  solution 
of  the  mystery  ?  After  some  hours  of  perplexity,  I  applied 
to  an  intimate  friend,  who  finally  introduced  me  to  a  gentle- 
man distinguished  for  his  perspicacity  and  intelligence,  and 
who  knew  his  Paris  a  fond.  My  friftnd  informed  me  that 
this  person's  sagacity  amounted  almost  to  the  Scottish  gift 
of  second-sight,  while  his  amiability  was  proverbial. 

My  researches  in  different  directions  had  occupied  all  the 
intervening  days ;  so  that  it  was  on  the  last  day  before  the  bal 
d' opera  that  I  met  this  gentleman,  by  appointment,  at  the 
Cafe  Foy. 

He  heard  my  story  to  the  end  without  saying  a  word, 
only  looking  meditatively  at  the  famous  swallow,  painted  by 
Horace  Vernet  on  the  ceiling  of  that  celebrated  restaurant, 
for  some  time  ;  and  then  the  oracle  spoke  :  — 

"  Go  to  the  rendezvous  to-morrow ;  and,  as  soon  as  you  see 
your  domino,  say  to  her,  '  It  pleases  me  :  I  am  enchanted  with 
it.  Present  me. ' ': 

Here  was  another  enigma  for  my  already  puzzled  imagina- 
tion ;  but  in  vain  I  entreated  my  Mentor  for  an  explanation. 

"  I  will  be  at  the  ball,"  said  he.  "  I  will  wait  in  box  number 
twenty  at  precisely  three  hours  after  midnight.  Come  then, 
and  tell  me  the  effect  you  have  produced,  and  you  shall  know 
all." 

I  was  forced  to  be  content  with  this  direction  and  assurance, 
and  retired  from  the  interview  with  grave  doubts  as  to  the 
faith  of  my  friend. 

Saturday,  midnight,  the  hour  for  the  opening  of  the  masked 
ball  at  the  opera,  came  at  last,  finding  me  punctually  at  my 

25 


290  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

post,  eagerly  looking  for  the  black  domino.  I  must  have  had 
a  very  distrait  air ;  for  I  was  honored  by  many  comments  by 
the  crowd,  which  I  thought  very  ill  timed.  It  seemed  as  if 
a  tawdry  sultana,  who  seemed  to  have  marked  me  for  her 
particular  prey,  would  never  cease  persecuting  me. 

At  last  I  caught  sight  of  the  sheen  of  satin,  and  of  a  tall, 
graceful  figure,  which  could  belong  to  no  other  than  my 
domino  noir.  Parting  brusquely  from  my  Oriental  houri,  I 
advanced  towards  her,  grasped  her  hand,  and  led  her  aside 
with  a  palpitating  heart. 

I  quite  forgot  the  enigmatical  phrase  I  had  been  instructed 
to  utter;  and  it  only  occurred  to  me  when  she  announced  to  me 
her  intention  of  retiring  early  from  the  ball. 

Hoping  to  retain  her  by  these  words,  which  I  imagined  to 
be  a  sort  of  "  Open  sesame,"  I  repeated  them  to  her.  The  lady 
was  evidently  surprised,  complete  woman  of  the  world  though 
she  was.  She  made  a  movement  as  if  embarrassed,  but  re- 
mained silent  for  a  few  moments. 

"  I  do  not  comprehend  you,"  said  she  in  a  troubled  voice. 

"  You  seem,  on  the  contrary,  to  comprehend  me  admirably ;  " 
much  better,  I  thought  mentally,  than  I  comprehend  myself. 
"  What  is  your  reply  ?  " 

The  answer  was  confused  and  hesitating  :  it  rendered 
matters  more  obscure  between  us  than  ever:  and  soon  after,  in 
a  place  where  the  dense  crowd  hardly  permitted  individuals  to 
be  distinguished,  the  lady  wound  suddenly,  like  a  hare,  through 
the  groups,  and  disappeared. 

I  was  eager  to  have  all  this  explained,  as  you  may  suppose ; 
and  hastened  to  box  number  twenty,  where  I  found  my  friend 
and  guide  in  the  ever-changing  and  mysterious  kaleidoscope 
called  Paris. 

I  believed  that  I  had  lost  my  inamorata  forever,  and  was 
somewhat  inclined  to  reproach  him  as  the  cause,  even  while 
imploring  him  to  conceal  nothing  from  me  if  he  did  not  wish 


THE  LIEUTENANT'S  STORY.  291 

me  to  become  an  inmate  of  Charenton.     His  coolness  provoked 
me. 

"  My  dear  young  friend,"  said  he,  "  I  was  not  mistaken,  as 
you  have  seen  ;  and  you  shall  be  enlightened  on  the  situation 
without  further  suspense. 

"  The  woman  who  captivated  you  was  neither  more  nor  less 
than  a  marriage-broker.  She  has  a  commission  (among  others) 
to  unite  a  poor  young  girl  to  a  rich  young  man.  She  has  intel- 
lect :  the  girl  has  beauty.  She  begins  the  spell  of  fascination 
in  person,  wearing  a  mask ;  for,  notwithstanding  her  elegant 
figure,  I  will  lay  a  heavy  wager  she  is  old  and  wrinkled :  the 
face  will  finish  the  work.  By  the  aid  of  love  for  beauty  in  the 
abstract,  you  could  have  been  so  blinded  to  the  deception,  that 
the  affair  would  have  gone  on  until  it  was  too  late  to  withdraw. 
That  is  the  whole  mystery.  I  suspected  it  at  once  from  your 
story.  No  girl  of  sixteen,  such  as  that  portrait  represents,  could 
have  the  skill  and  knowledge  of  the  world  of  your  siren.  I  ad- 
vised you  to  apply  the  test ;  and  it  has  succeeded.  You  may 
now  imagine  what  these  women  of  the  world,  disappointed  as 
to  matrimony,  are  capable  of. 

"  I  once  knew  a  certain  countess  who  possessed  two  or  three 
chef  d'oeuvres  of  art.  She  lay  in  wait  for  amateurs,  inti- 
mating her  possession  of  these  treasures,  and  her  desire  to  sell 
them.  When  they  came  to  view  them  at  her  apartments,  she 
received  them  charmingly,  and  showed  the  pictures  skilfully  dis- 
posed in  a  dim  light.  Then,  accidentally  as  it  were,  she  intro- 
duced them  to  a  magnificent  creature,  who  looked  her  part  as 
well  as  the  countess  played  hers.  She  often  failed,  of  course, 
and  results  were  not  always  what  she  hoped  for ;  but,  if  the  plan 
succeeded  once  or  twice,  her  profit  was  considerable. 

"  Your  domino  belongs  to  this  school.  Thank  Heaven  !  your 
eyes  have  been  opened  before  it  is  too  late.  Believe  me,  I  am 
sufficiently  rewarded  if  I  have  succeeded  in  unmasking  this 
daring  imposture  j  and  you  will,  I  know,  do  me  the  favor  to 


292  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

warn  other  possible  victims  of  this  one  of  the  many  snares 
that  beset  their  paths. 

"  It  would  be  very  disagreeable  to  a  worthy  man  to  find  that 
he  was  married  to  a  pretty  fool,  when  he  thought  he  had 
secured  both  beauty  and  intellect  in  the  same  person." 

The  Mentor  then  took  his  leave,  and  I  suddenly  came  upon 
the  intimate  friend  I  have  already  mentioned.  I  was  now  com- 
pletely cured  of  my  illusion,  and  warmly  thanked  him  for  an 
introduction  to  so  clear-headed  and  sagacious  a  man  as  he  who 
had  just  left  us.  "  Ah  ! "  said  my  friend,  "  he  is  indeed  sur- 
prising in  his  wits,  and  has  the  most  superb  sang-froid  I  ever 
saw  in  mortal  man.  Last  summer,  at  Baden,  I  had  played 
heavily,  and  lost  so  much  that  serious  consequences  threatened, 
which  rendered  me  more  desperate.  Your  friendly  adviser  was 
in  the  cursal,  looking  on  with  his  usual  imperturbability.  At 
last  I  was  reduced  to  a  single  louis,  and  turned  to  him  madly, 
demanding  his  advice  where  to  bet  my  last  coin.  "  My  friend," 
answered  he  gravely,  "  as  you  ask  me  as  your  friend,  I  can  only 
answer  the  appeal  by  advising  you  to  — put  it  in  your  pocket." 

At  the  close  of  the  lieutenant's  story,  few  comments  were 
made.  The  denoument  was  rather  unexpected  to  his  audi- 
tors, most  of  whom  were  scarcely  well  enough  informed  to 
appreciate  so  peculiar  a  phase  of  life  in  the  most  refined 
capital  of  the  world. 

The  puffing  of  the  pipes  alone  indicated  that  many  of  the 
company  were  not  napping ;  although  the  story  had  produced 
a  soporific  effect  in  a  few  cases. 

An  artillery-officer  of  the  regular  army  was  the  next  volun- 
teer raconteur  in  our  nocturnal  confabulations.  A  section  of 
his  battery  lay  not  far  in  our  rear ;  and  he  had  strolled  to  our 
biovouac  that  night  in  quest  of  amusement,  and  to  escape  from 
the  monotony  of  his  camp. 

We  will  entitle  his  narrative 


THE   ARTILLERY- OFFICER'S    STORY. 

I  AM  a  graduate  of  the  United-States  Military  Academy  at 
West  Point,  and  a  Virginian  by  birth.  It  is  likely  that 
most  of  the  people  of  my  native  State  would  deem  me  recreant 
to  the  land  of  my  fathers,  and  an  invader  of  the  "  sacred  soil." 
But  I  think  that  true  patriotism  consists  in  something  broader 
than  one's  obligation  to  any  single  State  of  our  glorious  Union, 
and  can  very  well  support  the  odium,  if  any  justly  falls  upon 
me.  I  have  never  believed  the  mad  doctrines  of  Calhoun  and 
his  followers,  who  have  succeeded  in  shifting  the  theatre  of  war 
from  their  own  States  to  poor  old  Virginia,  who  now  endures 
its  terrors  and  devastations.  Neither  do  I  approve  of  the  con- 
duct of  many  of  my  former  brother-officers  in  raising  sacrilegious 
hands  to  destroy  the  fairest  fabric  of  human  government  ever 
devised  by  man,  and  thus  violating  their  military  oaths. 

But  I  will  not  detain  you,  gentlemen,  by  entering  into  a  dis- 
cussion upon  the  merits  or  demerits  of  the  two  great  parties 
now  contending  for  the  mastery  in  this  our  fair  aud  great 
country,  but  will  enter  at  once  upon  my  story. 

Fifteen  years  ago  I  was  at  the  Military  Academy,  in  the 
lowest  class ;  of  which  Leonard  Mason  was  also  a  member. 
Our  parents  resided  in  Williamsburg ;  and  it  so  happened  that 
we  entered  the  institution  at  the  same  time. 

The  life  of  most  men,  let  us  hope,  is  brighter  at  its  close  than 
at  its  beginning,  emerging  from  the  grossness  and  cruelty  of 
the  schoolboy  and  the  passions  of  youth  into  the  light  of  reason 
and  knowledge  ;  but  he  of  whom  I  speak  was  not  so  fortunate. 

25»  293 


294  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

The  height  he  reached  was  amidst  thunder-clouds  ;  and  the 
road  before  him  was  no  lighter,  though  his  ascent  was  only 
misty,  and  his  starting-point  lay  open  to  the  sun. 

He  was,  indeed,  a  glorious  boy,  with  spirits  inexhaustible  as 
long  as  his  pocket-money  lasted ;  and  both  spirits  and  money 
were  ever  at  the  service  of  his  friends.  He  was  "  too  clever  by 
half  "  for  the  majority  of  his  companions,  and  was  snubbed  and 
bullied  in  consequence,  but  had  a  little  knot  of  ardent  admirers 
all  his  own.  Such  is  the  lot  of  most  wits  at  school,  where  prac- 
tical jokes  and  drinking-songs  are  chiefly  acceptable,  and  higher 
kinds  of  humor  are  stigmatized  by  the  all-degrading  term  "  face- 
tiousness." 

"  What  may  your  name  be  ?  "  drawled  a  cadet  corporal  to 
Leonard  Mason  shortly  after  his  installation  at  the  "  Point " 
as  a  raw  "  plebe  ; "  the  question  being  an  official  one. 

"  It  may  be  Sancho  Panza ;  but  it  isn't,"  replied  the  youth  ; 
and  he  was  punished  immediately  after  for  the  repartee. 

He  soon  became  popular  among  the  cadets,  however,  by 
reason  of  his  many  good  qualities,  —  his  generosity,  activity, 
and  beauty,  —  a  gift  which  prepossesses  boys  in  favor  of  its 
possessor,  as  it  does  the  lowest  classes  and  savages,  in  an 
eminent  degree. 

I  seem  to  see  him  now  at  "  Bennie's,"  where  every  enemy 
of  the  digestive  organs  had  abode,  "  standing  treat "  to  all 
comers  with  a  smile  of  welcome,  or  bounding  over  the  plateau, 
with  his  golden  hair  streaming  in  the  wind,  and  his  eyes  lit  up 
with  the  light  that  glows  from  a  happy  heart. 

Almost  all  Virginians  are  especially  good  at  every  thing  in 
the  sporting  way  ;  and  their  devotion  to  cards  almost  reaches 
the  dignity  of  a  culte.  Leonard  Mason  was  emphatically  a 
son  of  the  Old  Dominion  in  this  respect,  and  was  also  passion- 
ately fond  of  every  game  of  chance.  He  would  have  raffled  off 
his  teeth  if  he  could  have  got  anybody  to  put  in  for  them  ;  and 
was  constantly  devising  ways  and  means  of  evading  the  army- 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S  STORY.         295 

regulations  against  gambling.  He  cut  slips  of  paper,  inscrib- 
ing them  with  the  names  of  running  horses,  on  the  eve  of 
every  great  race,  for  "  sweep  "  purposes ;  and,  despite  the  strict 
discipline  to  which  we  were  subject,  contrived  to  use  them 
secretly.  If  a  pack  of  cards  was  discovered  and  confiscated, 
Leonard  was  sure  to  have  introduced  them.  He  cut  dice  out 
of  India-rubber  (to  secure  silence  in  playing),  and  invented 
a  hundred  games  with  slate  and  pencil,  for  school-times. 
Having  secretly  manufactured  a  cribbage-board,  he  was  one 
night  engaged  in  that  enticing  game  with  a  friend,  after  taps, 
by  the  light  of  a  tallow  dip  carefully  veiled ;  and  so  absorbed 
were  the  two  in  their  amusement,  that  they  did  not  perceive 
the  approach  of  the  "  rounds."  Suddenly  they  heard  a  terrible 
voice  above  them,  —  "  Two  for  his  heels ! "  for  Leonard's  adver- 
sary had  omitted  to  mark  the  knave ;  and  the  "  rounds  "  had 
become  so  interested  a  spectator,  that  he  couldn't  help  rectify- 
ing the  error.  They  were  very  much  alarmed  at  the  time ; 
but  Leonard  Mason  never  took  the  incident,  as  did  the  other, 
for  a  warning. 

But  "  we  all  have  our  weak  points,"  we  all  said ;  and  his  is 
the  pleasure  he  takes  in  losing  his  own  money,  or  in  winning 
other  people's  to  spend  it  for  their  entertainment :  and  for 
my  part,  when  I  look  back,  there  were  none  whose  companion- 
ship I  enjoyed  more  than  that  of  Leonard  Mason. 

When  we  had  climbed  to  the  senior  class,  Mason  had 
grown  graceful  and  handsome,  and  his  many  accomplishments 
were  fully  recognized.  It  would  have  been  impossible  to 
select  a  more  deservedly  popular  man  than  he.  He  ex- 
celled in  his  studies  ;  he  was  an  excellent  soldier,  a  fluent 
speaker,  a  tolerable  musician,  a  passable  poet,  a  good  cavalier, 
an  excellent  pool-player ;  and,  in  short,  promised  to  become 
one  of  those  "  admirable  Oichtons  "  who  from  time  to  time 
dart  meteor-like  athwart  the  academic  course,  and  then  dis- 
appear, utterly  lost  in  the  darkness  of  the  outer  world. 


296  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

In  all  our  exercises  and  manly  games,  Leonard  Mason  was 
pre-eminent  among  his  fellows ;  and  often,  as  I  saw  him  at  the 
finish,  breathless,  and  with  heightened  color,  his  broad  chest 
rising  and  falling  like  a  wave,  I  thought  I  had  never  seen  a 
more  splendid  specimen  of  young  manhood.  His  sparkling 
eyes,  and  honest,  hearty  laugh,  inspired  the  belief  that  he  was 
one  who  would  not  slip  or  fall  from  honor  even  on  the  "  turf" 
itself.  In  our  stolen  pleasure-trips  to  Bennie's,  or  across  the 
river,  he  was  always  the  leading  spirit ;  and  at  the  former 
place,  where  shakes  the  well-worn  bagatelle-board  on  its 
uncertain  legs  in  the  sanded  parlor,  his  egg-flip  and  apple- 
toddy  were  allowed  to  be  the  best.  And  where  the  lawn 
slopes  down  to  the  river's  edge,  there  he  sang  the  songs  we 
loved  to  hear,  such  as  suited  careless  youth.  He  was  the  soul 
of  all  our  jovial  company.  As  we  stole  home  to  the  cadet- 
barracks  after  one  of  these  nights  out,  and  effected  our  en- 
trance, I  said,  — 

"You  make  the  hours  fly  fast,  Leonard:  that's  one 
o'clock." 

"  The  quarter  to  only,  I'll  bet  a  dollar,"  said  he. 

After  our  graduation,  I  gave  a  supper-party  in  honor  of 
the  great  event,  at  Delmonico's,  in  New  York.  Leonard  Ma- 
son did  not  arrive  at  the  time  appointed,  and  we  sat  down 
without  him ;  for  nobody  waits  on  such  occasions. 

We  began  to  talk  of  the  absent,  as  the  mode  is ;  and  I, 
thinking  there  could  be  no  harm  in  a  playful  kick  at  such  a 
favorite,  offered  to  lay  a  wager  that  Mason  was  detained  by 
cards. 

"  I  wouldn't  like  to  be  his  adversary,"  said  one. 

"Nor  I  his  partner,"  said  another,  "lest  Old  Nick  should 
fly  away  with  us  with  pardonable  freedom ;  for  he  has  the 
Devil's  own  luck." 

"Yes;  and  the  Devil's  own  play  too,"  said  a  third 
sulkily. 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICERS  STORY.        297 

"It  doesn't  keep  him  from  the  duns,  at  all  events,"  added 
the  man  next  to  me.  "  I  dare  say  some  pertinacious  tailor  is 
waiting  for  him  now  on  the  staircase ;  and  that's  what  makes 
him  late,  after  all." 

Much  distressed  by  this  news  and  the  tone  of  these  re- 
marks, I  requested  further  information.  I  learned  that  Ma- 
son was  not  so  popular  as  he  used  to  be ;  and  since  he  left  West 
Point,  some  months  before,  had  joined  a  fast  set,  to  whom  it 
was  supposed  he  had  lost  considerable  sums ;  was  certainly  in 
pecuniary  difficulties,  and  very  much  changed  in  manners 
and  appearance.  Further  information  was  cut  short  by  the 
entrance  of  Mason  himself. 

If  I  had  not  been  expecting  him,  and  no  other,  I  doubt  if  I 
should  have  known  him,  so  altered  was  his  person  in  a  few 
short  months.  His  face  was  very  pale  and  haggard ;  his  eyes 
—  brighter  than  ever — were  set  in  deep,  black  circles;  and 
his  clothes  hung  loosely  on  his  limbs.  He  welcomed  me 
however,  with  all  his  old  cordiality,  and  threw  about  the 
arrows  of  his  wit  as  usual:  they  were  more  barbed  than  of 
old  ;  the  sheet-lightning  had  become  forked. 

The  conversation  turned  upon  a  graduate  of  the  Military 
Academy  who  had  taken  holy  orders.  The  same  fellow  who 
had  complained  of  "  the  Devil's  own  play "  announced  his 
intention  of  following  the  example. 

"Strange,"  said  Mason,  "that  such  'fast'  men  should 
take  holy  orders !  and,  still  more  singular,  how  rapid  is  the 
metamorphosis !  The  French  prints,  the  gold-mounted  whips, 
the  colored  clothes,  are  sold  at  a  frightful  sacrifice ;  and  a 
brand-new  divine  launched  the  next  morning.  What  a  pity 
to  throw  away  that  exquisite  taste  of  yours "  —  addressing 
the  man  who  had  announced  his  intentions  —  "on  the  merest 
black  and  white ! " 

The  latter  had  on  a  gay  red  necktie. 

He  said  many  things  of  this  sort  in  a  semi-savage  manner 


298  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

while  drinking  off  glass  after  glass  very  rapidly.  Some  of 
the  company  were  not  more  backward  either  in  retort  or  in 
drinking ;  and  I  was  soon  obliged  to  interfere  in  my  capacity 
as  host. 

"  He  said  I  was  a  greater  fool  than  I  looked ! " 

"Who  said  so?"  "So  you  are!"  "Shame,  shame!" 
"  Here's  a  lark ! "  "  Go  it  while  you're  young ! "  and  other 
like  expressions  burst  forth  from  every  side ;  until  at  last  I 
volunteered  an  opinion  "free,  gratis,  for  nothing,"  which 
quelled  them  on  the  principle  of  counter-irritation,  and  ob- 
tained for  me  a  hearing. 

"  I  am  sure  Mason  will  apologize  for  that  remark  of  his," 
I  said.  "  We  are  all  old  academy-friends  ;  and  we  have  not 
come  here  to  discuss  quarrels,  but  oysters  and"  — 

"  He  called  me  —  he  called  me,"  hiccoughed  one,  "  a  greater 
fool  than  I  looked !  " 

"  My  dear  fellow,"  said  Mason,  holding  out  his  hand  over 
the  table  in  the  most  affectionate  manner,  "  I  retract  that 
observation  altogether :  you  are  not  such  a  fool  as  you  look  ! 
That  every  body  knows  ! " 

The  offended  party  endeavored  to  explain  that  he  was  per- 
fectly satisfied ;  and  the  party  broke  up  amid  shouts  of  laugh- 
ter and  in  high  good-humor. 

We  sallied  into  the  streets. 

"  I  have  left  a  few  men  at  my  rooms  to-night,"  said  Mason ; 
"  and,  if  you  will  join  them  in  a  game  at  vingt-et-un,  come  at 
once,  before  they  have  left." 

I  was  anxious  to  see  the  sort  of  company  he  kept ;  and  we 
adjourned,  accordingly,  to  his  apartments,  which  were  near. 

Six  or  seven  men  sat  around  his  table  as  he  entered,  whom 
he  had  left — with  some  unselfishness,  I  am  sure  —  to  sup 
with  me.  They  had  eaten  nothing,  although  a  plentiful  sup- 
per was  piled  on  a  side-table  ;  but  a  number  of  empty  bottles 
proved  their  thirst.  They  did  not  interrupt  their  game 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S  STORY.         299 

for  a  moment ;  but  one  of  them  moved  his  chair  to  give  us 
room. 

"  Eleven  ;  now  then  for  a  ten  ! "  roared  the  dealer.  "  Fif- 
teen—  curse  my  luck!  —  and  nine;  overdrawn,  by  Jove!" 
A  peal  of  joy  arose  from  the  others. 

"  You  only  pay  me  a  V,  though,"  said  one  mournfully. 

"  An  X  for  me,"  said  another ;  and  "  You  pay  me  sixty 
dollars, — thirty  on  each  card,"  added  a  third. 

They  were  playing,  then,  a  good  deal  too  high  for  me ;  and, 
as  I  should  have  thought,  for  Mason  also.  I  declined,  therefore, 
to  join  the  party;  but  stood  with  my  back  to  the  fire,  and 
watched  the  game. 

Vingt-et-un,  like  other  matters  which  depend  mostly  upon 
luck,  is  a  serious  trial  of  the  temper ;  and  the  present  com- 
pany seemed  not  to  have  much  patience  to  spare  :  they  were 
more  or  less  in  wine  too,  and  exhibited  a  great  contrast  in 
their  manner  to  the  quiet  and  friendly  fashion  in  which  cards 
are,  and  should  be,  usually  played  among  gentlemen.  The 
chief  cause  of  this  was,  that  they  were  playing  for  higher 
stakes  than  they  could  well  afford;  that  is  to  say,  gam- 
bling. 

The  eternal  "  Make  your  game,"  and  "  I  double  you,"  were 
the  only  words  spoken  by  Mason,  as  dealer;  but  he  spoke 
them  like  a  curse.  Despite  the  heat  of  the  room,  and  his  in- 
tense excitement,  his  face  shone  beneath  the  bright  light  of 
two  or  three  gas-burners  as  white  as  alabaster,  and  his  thin 
hand  shook  over  the  pack  like  a  lily  on  a  dancing  rivulet.  He 
kept  the  deal  a  short  time,  losing  heavily  ;  and,  when  he  was 
player,  he  clutched  at  the  cards  before  they  readied  him  like 
a  drowning  man  catching  at  straws. 

I  shaded  my  face  with  my  hand,  for  I  was  deeply  pained, 
and  watched  him  intently.  He  had  usually  "  stood  "  upon  his 
first  two  cards  without  drawing  another ;  but  he  seemed  sud- 
denly to  change  his  plan,  and  «  drew  "  again  and  again. 


300  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES, 

"Nine  —  sixteen:  surely  you  must  be  over,"  said  the 
dealer. 

"  No,  said  Mason,  "  thank  you  !  I  stand." 

Now,  on  that  occasion  I  happened  to  see  that  Mason  was 
over,  —  being  twenty-two,  —  and  that  he  received  the  stakes 
instead  of  paying  them.  My  blood  rushed  to  my  head,  and  I 
thought  that  I  heard  my  heart  beat  for  a  moment  at  the 
sight;  but  I  dismissed  the  thought  that  his  act  was  inten- 
tional, and  watched  in  hope  that  it  would  not  be  repeated. 

No,  thank  Heaven  !  he  is  "over"  this  time,  and  throws  up 
his  cards  with  a  sigh ;  and  now  he  wins ;  and  now,  as  I  live, 
he  is  "  content "  at  twenty-five,  and  again  receives  instead  of 
pays.  Not  twice  nor  thrice  this  happens,  but  twenty  times. 
He  is  cheating  whenever  there  is  an  occasion  to  cheat. 

The  night  —  or  rather  the  day  —  wears  on,  and  still  the 
players  sit  unwearied:  their  lips  are  parched,  their  eyes  are 
heated,  and  they  scarcely  can  take  up  their  cards.  But  not  till 
dawn  breaks  in  through  the  thick  curtains  and  athwart  the 
flaring  gas-lights  does  any  one  leave  his  seat :  then  two 
hurriedly  depart ;  and  the  rest  drop  off  their  perches  presently, 
like  moulting  birds ;  and  I  am  left  alone  with  him  who  was 
my  friend  and  playmate,  and  who  cheats  his  guests  and  com- 
panions. 

"  Devilish  dissipated,  ain't  it  ?  "  said  Mason,  yawning. 

"Devilish  !"  I  echoed. 

"  And  what  cursed  luck  I've  had  !  A  hundred 'dollars  ready 
money  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  of  autographs  gone  besides. 
But,  Lord  love  you  !  I've  had  worse  luck  than  that,  and  shall 
have  again ;  and,  if  I  don't  mind  it,  why  should  you,  old  chap  ? 
Don't  look  so  confoundedly  virtuous,"  he  added  angrily ;  for 
I  was  looking  all  I  felt :  "  you've  done  the  same  before 
now." 

"  Never  the  same,  Mr.  Mason,"  I  replied. 

(t  What  do  you  mean  ?  "  said  he  hastily,  but  without  remark- 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S  STORY.        301 

ing  on  the  way  I  had  addressed  him.  "You've  never  gam- 
bled :  do  you  mean  to  say  that  ?  I  like  your  impudence." 

"  Gambled,  perhaps,"  I  answered,  "  but  never  cheated,  sir." 

At  that  word  his  wan  cheeks  burnt  like  two  living  coals,  and 
he  dropped  into  an  arm-chair  beside  me  without  a  word ;  while 
a  sort  of  convulsion  seemed  to  pass  over  his  whole  face,  and 
his  breath  came  and  went  with  difficulty. 

"  Mason,"  I  said  with  pity  and  some  emotion,  "  be  a  man ! 
You  were  drunk,  and  knew  not  what  you  did.  You  lost  com- 
mand of  yourself,  or  you  could  never  have  done  such  a  foul 
deed,  I  know." 

I  saw  with  joy  the  tears  gathering  in  his  eyes,  and,  with  my 
face  averted  from  him,  appealed  to  his  old  nature  as  forcibly 
as  I  could. 

I  told  him  what  a  hold  he  once  had  on  all  the  hearts  of  his 
old  associates,  and  how  men's  backs  were  turning  on  him 
now.  I  bade  him  judge  how  his  whole  self  was  changed  by 
his  own  altered  features  and  the  strange  companions  he  had 
chosen. 

He  only  answered  by  a  silent  passion  of  tears.  I  was 
obliged  to  put  to  him  some  bitter  questions  for  the  sake  of 
that  I  had  in  view. 

"  Does  any  one  know  of  this  beside  yourself,  Leonard  ?  " 

He  shook  his  head. 

"  Is  this  the  first  time  in  all  your  life  that  you  ever  did  this 
thing?" 

"  The  first,  the  first ! "  he  moaned. 

I  thought,  and  still  think,  that  this  was  true ;  that  he 
cheated  in  a  sort  of  despair,  and  in  a  frenzy,  rather  than 
according  to  a  preconceived  and  customary  plan. 

"  Have  you  a  Bible  in  the  room,  Leonard  ?    Good !  I  have  it 

here.     Now  swear  to  me  that  you  will  not  touch  dice  or  card 

again  for  two  years  ;  swear,  I  say,"  for  I  saw  he  was  about  to 

refuse ;  "  or  for  your  own  sake,  as  well  as  that  of  others,  I 

26 


302  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

will  proclaim  what  I  have  seen  to-night,  not  only  to  your 
friends,  but  also  to  our  military  superiors." 

Leonard  Mason  took  the  oath,  and  kept  it ;  for  he  left  New 
York -that  very  day  for  Washington,  and,  having  graduated  in 
the  cavalry  previously,  applied  to  be  sent  to  his  regiment, 
then  on  the  western  frontier  of  Texas.  I  was  in  the  artillery : 
and  so,  for  some  years,  we  were  widely  apart ;  and  it  was  only 
across  the  memory  of  my  brightest  academy-days,  and  especi- 
ally over  their  scenes  of  pleasure  and  excitement,  that  his 
shadow  fell  dark  and  cold. 

Only  two  years  since,  I  visited  my  home  at  Williamsburg 
on  a  short  leave  of  absence  ;  and,  being  well  acquainted  with 
all  the  old  Virginia  families  of  the  neighborhood,  was  invited 
to  the  house  of  an  ancient  acquaintance  of  my  own. 

Cleves  Court  was  the  seat  of  Col.  Landon  Carter,  a  Vir- 
ginian of  the  old  style ;  and  there  he  dispensed  the  proverbial 
hospitality  of  the  Old  Dominion  in  a  right  royal  fashion. 
The  colonel  had  "  one  fair  daughter,  and  no  more ;  "  and  I  had 
known  Clara  Carter  from  childhood,  our  families  having  been 
quite  intimate  for  several  generations. 

Clara  was  not  quite  pretty,  but  had  vivacity,  and  a  thousand 
charming  graces  of  manner  many  times  more  attractive  than 
mere  beauty  of  person.  She  was  tolerably  accomplished,  and 
was  reputed  to  have  a  handsome  sum  in  her  own  right  over 
and  above  what  expectations  she  might  have  from  her  father. 
More  than  once  I  had  thought  of  an  alliance  with  this  desira- 
ble young  person  myself:  but  she  had  once  caught  me  prac- 
tising an  address  to  a  young  lady  aloud,  arrayed  in  cadet 
uniform,  before  a  mirror  in  a  drawing-room  at  Cleves  Court, 
thinking  I  was  solus ;  and  she  never  forgot  it.  Whenever 
afterwards  I  strove  to  be  tender,  she  would  give  her  imita- 
tions of  my  looks  and  gestures  on  that  occasion  ;  and  I,  know- 
ing how  little  laughter  is  akin  to  love,  soon  stifled  my  flame 
in  my  military  studies,  and  began  to  take  a  life  interest  in  the 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S  STORY.        303 

army.  Still,  however,  I  felt  very  anxious  for  her  happiness ; 
and  it  was  with  some  terror,  and  much  astonishment,  that  I 
discovered,  on  my  arrival  at  Cleves  Court,  that  she  was 
engaged,  and  that  the  fortunate  suitor  was  Capt.  Leonard 
Mason. 

Col.  Carter,  it  seems,  was  not  altogether  satisfied  with  her 
suitor  or  his  prospects ;  hut  Clara  had  set  her  heart  upon  him, 
and  it  was  at  her  own  disposal.  To  my  half-joking  questions 
about  her  lover,  she  gave  me  such  replies  as  convinced  me, 
that,  in  manners  and  attractions  at  least,  he  was  the  same  who 
had  charmed  us  all  in  youth  ;  "  but  he  looks  so  pale  and  thin 
at  times,"  she  said,  "  that  I  can  scarcely  bear  to  look  at  him." 

An  early  day  was  appointed  for  us  to  meet  at  Cleves  Court, 
the  colonel  thinking  it  would  be  agreeable  to  both  parties  on 
the  score  of  our  comradeship  at  West  Point ;  and  I  was  im- 
patient for  the  time  to  arrive.  "  If  he  blushes  or  looks  con- 
fused at  seeing  me,"  thought  I,  "  it  will  be  a  good  sign  :  that 
sad  business  at  college  will  still  haunt  his  memory,  and  prove 
him  to  be  not  inured  to  shame.  It  was  his  first  and  last  and 
worst  error,  perhaps ;  and  who  am  I  that  I  should  bring  the 
sin  of  his  youth  against  another  man  ?  How  many  of  us  in 
early  life  have  committed  faults,  and  even  crimes,  and  yet  have 
reached  harbor  and  smooth  water !  and  what  right  have  we 
to  send  another,  who  is  about  to  join  us,  back  again  upon  the 
stormy  deep  ?  "  Full  of  these  magnanimous  reflections,  I 
arrived  at  Col.  Carter's,  finding  within-doors  that  gentleman 
himself  only,  who  bade  me  seek  the  young  couple  in  the 
garden.  They  were  walking  together  under  a  trellis  of  roses 
at  the  farther  end,  and  never  heeded  my  footsteps  as  I  came 
along  the  gravelled  walk  toward  them. 

He  had  his  arm  around  her  waist,  and  was  combating,  it 
seemed,  some  opinion  or  scruple  of  hers ;  for  his  musical  tones, 
although  I  could  not  hear  their  sense,  caught  up  and  over- 
powered hers. 


304  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

On  a  sudden  Clara  gave  a  little  scream,  and  pointed  to  me ; 
and  then  I  knew  that  it  was  I  who  had  been  the  subject  of 
their  debate.  As  they  came  forward,  she  endeavored  to  dis- 
entangle herself  from  him ;  but  he  held  her  firmly  as  before. 

Mason  had  changed  much,  and  showed  the  marks  of  time 
and  service :  his  complexion  was  bronzed,  and  he  was  heavily 
bearded. 

"  What  a  time  it  is  since  we  met ! "  said  he.  "  Why,  when 
was  it  that  I  saw  you  last  ?  " 

"In  New  York,"  I  replied.  "You  must  remember  that, 
Mason;"  for  I  was  not  pleased  with  his  coolness  and 
effrontery. 

"  Yes,"  he  said,  "  to  be  sure  it  was  in  New  York ;  and  we 
had  some  ridiculous  quarrel  about  vingt-et-un" 

"  Well,  don't  do  it  again :  for  that  is  just  my  age ;  and  I 
don't  want  to  be  quarrelled  about,"  said  Clara.  And  the  din- 
ner-bell —  tocsin  of  peace  —  began  to  sound. 

At  the  table  we  heard  as  much  of  the  captain's  history  as  he 
chose  to  tell.  He  spoke  of  his  Indian  fights,  of  Camanches 
and  Lipans,  and  the  excitement  and  adventure  of  frontier-life. 
He  poured  out  quite  a  river  of  anecdote,  all  of  which  he 
finished  off  by  some  prudent  or  moral  reflection ;  lamented 
this  man's  passion  for  play,  another's  thirst  for  drink,  and  the 
absurd  extravagance  of  a  third :  in  fact,  acted  the  part  of  a 
model  son-in-law  to  be  to  perfection. 

But  in  the  evening,  as  we  smoked  our  cigars,  after  the  old 
colonel  had  retired  to  rest,  and  Clara  had  followed  his  example, 
he  was,  to  me,  more  natural  in  his  communications. 

He  then  spoke  of  the  intrigues  and  marriages  made  "  on 
spec "  in  society  ;  of  his  colonel's  fondness  for  "  brag "  and 
"  poker ; "  of  the  ease  with  which  money  was  to  be  made  at 
the  Metairie  races  by  the  crafty  ;  of  the  "  smashes  "  that  had 
occurred  in  his  regiment:  and,  in  fact,  laid  open  the  whole 
repertoire  of  a  fast  military  man. 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICERS  STORY.         3Q5 

His  old  humor  was  quite  gone ;  but  a  bitter  wit  overflowed 
his  talk,  and  an  utter  disbelief  in  goodness  and  good  men  per- 
vaded all  his  language.  This  he  addressed  to  me,  "  as  one  man 
of  the  world  talking  to  another :  "  so  and  so  and  such  were  the 
real  truths,  —  the  sort  of  horrible,  hopeless  gospel  always  her- 
alded by  that  particular  expression.  And  yet  when  he  drew 
himself  up  to  his  full  height,  and  wished  me  good-night  with 
his  old  bewitching  smile,  I  pressed  warmly  his  outstretched 
hand ;  and,  long  after  the  echoes  of  his  footsteps  had  died 
away  on  the  oaken  stairs,  I  sat  over  the  fading  embers  with 
my  mind  fuller  of  sorrow  than  anger  because  of  him. 

•I  had  the  darkest  foreboding  about  this  marriage.  I  had 
little  doubt  but  that  Mason  was  a  fallen  star,  who  would  fall 
lower  yet,  and  drag  down  with  him  another,  pure  and  bright, 
and  dear  to  me.  Yet  I  liked  him  still :  what  wonder,  then,  at 
her  affection,  who  knew  his  strength,  and  not  his  weakness? 
"  How  often  do  we  see  men  like  these,"  I  thought,  — "  men 
without  a  prayer,  who  have  twenty  pious  lips  to  pray  for  them ; 
without  love,  —  to  call  such,  —  and  yet  so  wildly  adored;  with- 
out one  great  or  wise  or  beautiful  thought,  and  yet  diffusing 
almost  a  glory  by  their  presence  !  With  one  look  of  love  they 
wipe  away  a  hundred  wrongs  ;  and,  when  they  die,  their  image 
is  enshrined  in  many  hearts,  and  not  less  tenderly  because 
these  may  have  been  broken."  I  had  no  right,  without  more 
evidence,  to  compare  Leonard  Mason  with  such  men  as  these ; 
and  yet  I  did  so.  It  is  not  hard  to  find  out  in  the  army  what 
an  officer's  life  has  been :  but  I  did  not  consider  myself  justified 
in  prying  into  the  captain's  past  career  in  the  South-west ;  for 
I  knew  that  I  had  been  a  rival,  and  feared  lest  jealousy  might 
prompt  me  in  the  matter  quite  as  much  as  a  regard  for  Clara's 
happiness. 

Their  marriage  took  place  a  short  time  after  my  visit  to 
Cleves  Court ;  and  they  went  North  for  a  wedding-tour. 

I  received  a  most   eligible   appointment   as  instructor  of 

26» 


306  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

artillery  at  Fortress  Monroe  ;  and  frequently  paid  visits  to  Col. 
Carter,  who  urged  me  to  come  whenever  I  could.  The  child- 
less old  man,  who  had  given  up  the  light  of  his  home,  told  me 
it  was  pleasant  for  him  to  be  with  one  who  had  known  and 
loved  his  daughter,  —  for  he  knew  of  my  old  affection  for  her 
better  than  she  did,  and  would  gladly  have  encouraged  it,  — 
and  we  talked  of  the  absent  one  continually. 

Month  after  month  passed  by  without  any  sign  of  their 
return ;  and  Clara's  letters  grew  more  vague,  and  Leonard's 
were  quite  silent  as  to  their  movements.  He  wrote  that  he 
found  living  at  the  North  more  expensive  than  he  thought, 
and  generally  requested  to  have  more  money.  Once,  even,  he 
wrote  me  a  private  epistle,  "  as  one  man  of  the  world  writing 
to  another,"  about  the  possibility  of  getting  at  the  property 
of  his  wife,  which,  according  to  my  advice,  had  been  put  quite 
safely  out  of  the  gallant  captain's  reach.  Then  the  letters  of 
both  ceased  altogether.  Post  after  post  had  Col.  Carter  begged 
of  them  to  write;  and  I  myself  had  not  been  backward  in 
appealing  to  Mrs.  Mason's  filial  feelings,  or  in  pointing  out  to 
her  husband  the  hazard  of  offending  his  father-in-law.  But  six 
months  elapsed  without  letters  from  them.  I  then  became 
convinced  that  he  was  preventing  her  by  force;  cutting  off,  for 
some  purpose  of  his  own,  her  intercourse  with  her  parent :  and 
here  all  my  considerateness  for  Mason  vanished,  and  I  made 
every  inquiry  about  him  I  could  think  of.  Knowing  that  his 
leave  of  absence  had  expired,  I  found  out  at  the  war  depart- 
ment that  Capt.  Leonard  Mason,  — th  Cavalry,  had  resigned  his 
commission ;  that  his  resignation  had  been  compulsory,  to  avoid 
trial  by  court-martial  on  account  of  some  gambling  transac- 
tions which  had  come  to  light  since  he  left  his  regiment  in 
Texas :  "  And  indeed,"  said  my  informant,  the  secretary  of 
war,  "  they  were  some  of  the  worst  cases  that  ever  came  under 
our  notice." 

My  suspicions   being  thus  verified,  I  volunteered  to   the 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S  STORY.         307 

almost  frantic  father  to  go  in  search  of  the  lost  sheep,  or 
rather,  of  the  wolf  and  lamb  so  unfortunately  paired.  I  would 
not  take  him  with  me,  because  he  was  the  last  man  in  the 
world  fitted  to  cope  with  Mason ;  but  he  gave  me  the  fullest 
powers  to  act  for  him,  and,  if  it  could  possibly  be  done,  to 
bring  about  a  separation. 

I  went  on  my  sad  errand,  among  the  throng  of  pleasure- 
seekers  (for  it  was  now  the  summer),  up  the  noble  river  which 
Leonard  and  1  had  often  ascended  together  in  our  cadet-days. 
The  grand  scenery  of  the  Highlands  looked  as  imposing  as  of 
yore :  all  things  around  were  beautiful ;  and  every  heart  save 
mine  seemed  to  be  full  of  joy.  The  noisy  glee  of  a  knot  of 
young  cadets  —  which  vividly  brought  to  mind  my  former 
experience — contrasted  most  painfully  with  my  sad  forebod- 
ings. One  of  them  forcibly  reminded  me  of  what  Leonard 
Mason  once  had  been  when  we  had  climbed  together  to  the 
"  Cro'  Nest,"  and,  while  we  rested,  he  sang  to  us  "  Excelsior." 
Then  I  doubted  not  that  the  words  of  Longfellow  were  appro- 
priate to  the  singer  as  to  the  place;  and,  as  I  thought  of  him 
and  the  vanity  of  the  prophecy,  my  heart  grew  heavy  with 
fear. 

I  naturally  intended  to  seek  the  Masons  at  Saratoga,  as  this 
was  the  last  place  from  which  tidings  of  them  had  been  re- 
ceived ;  and  it  was,  moreover,  the  resort  of  the  gay  set  among 
whom  I  expected  to  find  them.  The  first  afternoon  of  my 
arrival  was  spent  in  fruitless  inquiries ;  but  the  next  day  I  fell 
in  with  a  person  who  had  seen  them  both  at  this  celebrated 
watering-place,  and  who  knew  Capt.  Mason.  He  assisted  me 
in  seeking  them ;  but  we  found  that  they  had  left  a  day  or 
two  before,  and  had  gone  to  New  York.  To  the  great  city, 
then,  I  proceeded  on  the  evening  train ;  and,  as  soon  as  I  ar- 
rived, lost  no  time  in  renewing  my  search,  but  without  success. 

The  next  day,  by  the  merest  accident,  I  encountered  a 
person  who  knew  everybody,  and  had  seen  Mason  without 
knowing  his  name. 


308  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

"  Why,  they  are  here,  sir !  I  saw  them  last  night :  I  am 
sure  of  it.  They  were  both  playing  together  in  a  private 

room  at  M 's," — naming  a  noted  hell,  in  which  ladies  were 

sometimes  admitted  by  special  favor  of  the  proprietor,  since 
an  M.  C. ;  "  the  gentleman  very  pale,  and  with  black  beard 
and  hair,  and  sunken  eyes  ;  the  lady  not  handsome,  but  lady- 
like, and  with  a  musical  voice." 

"  Good  heavens ! "  said  I.    "  And  did  you  ask  their  name  ?  " 

"Oh,  yes!  M told  me,  —  Stuart;  Captain  and  Mrs. 

Stuart." 

"  Thank  God  ! "  I  said.  And  yet  the  next  moment  I  doubt- 
ed whether  it  would  not  be  better  that  they  should  be  there 
than  not  to  find  them  at  all,  or  to  find  them  doing  worse. 

Accompanied  by  my  acquaintance,  who  had  the  entree,  I 
went  to  the  private  room  of  the  "hell"  that  evening.  I  sat 
down  at  the  gambling- table  among  others,  holding  my  head 
low,  as  if  intent  upon  the  game,  and  watched  the  company  as 
they  entered.  Presently  the  man  I  was  in  search  of  came 
in,  with  a  lady,  thickly  veiled,  upon  his  arm  ;  and  the  two  took 
seats  opposite  me.  Yes,  it  was  she,  but  deadly  pale  and  quiet, 
looking  more  like  a  wax  automaton  than  the  light-hearted 
and  self-willed  Clara  I  had  known.  She  had  been  fond  of 
jewelry,  and  used  to  wear  it  in  profusion ;  but  there  was  not 
an  ornament  about  her  now,  except  her  marriage-ring,  which 
I  saw  as  she  stretched  out  her  hand  to  receive  her  winnings  or 
pay  the  banker.  She  seemed  utterly  careless  about  the  matter 
herself;  but,  when  more  fortunate  than  usual,  she  looked  up 
from  the  cloth  into  her  husband's  face,  as  if  to  glean  from  it 
a  beam  of  joy.  They  evidently  played  in  accordance  with 
some  systematic  plan ;  but  they  did  not  prosper.  I  saw  Leon- 
ard Mason's  face  darkening,  and  his  teeth  setting  tighter,  with 
every  failure  to  win  his  stakes.  At  last,  with  a  terrible  but 
suppressed  oath,  he  rose,  and  walked  rapidly  from  the  room, 
motioning  to  his  wife  to  follow  him. 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S  STORY. 

Conversation  is  not  usual  in  these  places ;  but,  when  he  had 
gone,  one  of  the  initiated  present  made  the  remark,  — 

"The  captain's  scheme  doesn't  answer.  He  said  he  should 
break  the  bank  as  surely  as  P did  last  summer." 

"  Ah ! "  said  the  dealer  imperturbably,  "  P did  not  go 

away  with  the  money,  though ;  and  as  for  the  captain's  new 
system,  it's  as  old  as  the  hills." 

It  was  strange  to  hear  the  banker  thus  proclaiming  his  own 
invincibility  ;  but  he  knew  well  how  fast  the  devotees  of  the 
table  were  bound  to  him;  and,  indeed,  he  was  answered  by  a 
general  laugh.  I  had  already  risen,  and  was  following  the 
couple  out  of  the  room.  They  walked  into  Broadway,  and  en- 
tered Union  Square.  The  moon  shone  brightly ;  and  her  rays 
were  reflected  in  the  basin  of  the  great  fountain,  which  was 
rippled  by  a  light  breeze.  *  The  scene  was  peaceful  and  lovely. 
The  square  was  vacant  at  that  late  hour;  and,  as  I  advanced 
towards  the  Masons,  I  was  reminded  of  the  time  I  first  met 
them  together  in  the  garden  at  Cleves  Court.  The  way  in 
which  he  laid  his  hand  upon  her  arm  at  my  approach  recalled 
the  manner  in  which  he  refused  to  be  shaken  off  on  that 
occasion.  I  saw  in  that  grip  that  he  was  recalling  to  her 
mind  certain  previous  directions,  and  that  he  had  calculated 
upon  a  meeting  of  this  sort. 

"  Captain  Mason,  or  Stuart,"  I  accosted  him,  "  I  have  mat- 
ters of  a  very  serious  nature  to  speak  to  you  upon."  At  that 
intimation  his  pale  cheek  grew  whiter;  and  I  felt  sure,  at  once, 
that  he  had  done  something  to  be  afraid  of,  besides  the  things 
I- knew  of. 

"Mrs.  Mason,"  I  continued,  "to  you  also  I  have  some 
weighty  messages  from  a  father  you  may  possibly  never  see 
again." 

"  Address  yourself  to  me,  sir,  if  you  please ! "  burst  forth  her 
husband  violently  ;  but  she  broke  in  with, — 

"  Tell  me,  for  God's  sake  !  is  he  ill,  is  he  here,  sir  ?  0 
Leonard,  Leonard,  let  me  see  our  father ! " 


310  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

"He  is  not  ill,  madam,"  said  I;  "though  he  is  broken- 
hearted. But,  if  I  return  to  him  without  you,  I  do  not  doubt 
that  he  will  die ;  and  at  your  door,  Capt.  Mason,  who  have  not 
suffered  his  daughter  to  write  to  him,  his  death  will  lie.  Shall 
I  go  back  and  say  that  his  son-in-law  dare  not  pass  under  his 
own  name,  and  that  his  daughter  is  compelled  to  become  a 
professional  gambler  in  the  public  hells  of  New  York  and 
Saratoga  ?  " 

"  You  will  return  to  him,"  replied  Mason  savagely,  "  with 
a  bullet  through  your  heart,  if" —  But  here  Clara,  in  an 
agony  of  tears,  and  half  swooning,  entreated  to  be  led  home  ; 
and  we  bore  her  between  us  (for  she  could  not  support  herself) 
to  their  apartments  on  the  third  floor  of  a  neighboring  street. 
They  were  almost  without  furniture,  and  not  altogether  clean, 
but  with  a  glass  of  flowers  here  and  there,  and  a  few  other 
traces  of  the  "  grace  past  neatness "  which  rarely  forsakes  a 
woman.  Papers  and  cards  covered  with  figures  showing  the 
average  numbers  of  times  certain  cards  had  turned  up  at  faro 
proclaimed  the  systematic  gambler,  not  the  mathematician  ; 
but  they  were  all  delusive  calculations  for  discovering  the  philo- 
sopher's stone,  —  the  way  to  win.  Mason  carried  his  wife,  still 
sobbing  piteously,  into  an  inner  room,  and,  returning  instantly, 
motioned  me  to  a  chair,  and  demanded  my  business. 

"  May  I  ask,  sir,  on  the  part  of  Col.  Carter,  why  you  have 
not  corresponded  with  him  these  six  months,  —  not  even  to 
inform  him  of  your  having  left  the  army  ?  " 

"  You  know  as  well  as  and  better  than  I,  sir  (for  I  believe 
you  put  your  meddling  hand  to  it),"  he  replied,  "that  he 
refused  me  a  pecuniary  request,  made  on  the  part  of  his  own 
daughter ;  and  I  did  not  choose  that  she  should  have  any  thing 
more  to  do  with  such  a  hard-hearted  old  miser." 

"  Now,  supposing,"  said  I,  "  as  one  man  of  the  world  talking 
to  another,  it  was  rather  in  the  hope  of  bringing  the  old  miser 
to  your  terms  ?  and  supposing  that  your  plan  has  taken  effect, 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S  STORY,        OH 

and  that  I  am  instructed  to  pay  you  half  your  demand  —  that 
is  to  say,  twenty  thousand  dollars  —  upon  condition  that  Mrs. 
Mason  returns  to  her  friends  ?  " 

I  had  expected  an  outburst  of  rage  at  this  proposal ;  but  he 
only  turned  himself  to  the  cabalistic  documents  upon  the  table, 
and,  after  a  little  consideration,  answered  calmly,  — 

"  No :  I  must  have  thirty  thousand !  " 

Col.  Carter  would  have  given  double  that  sum ;  but  I  was 
so  enraged  by  this  coolness,  and  want  of  feeling,  that  I  ex- 
pressed myself  with  an  eloquence  that  would  have  carried 
every  thing  before  it  in  a  criminal  court. 

"  Swindler,  cheat,  felon ! "  I  cried,  —  and  at  the  word  "  felon  " 
I  saw  him  shake  "  like  a  guilty  thing,"  and  pursued  my  ad- 
vantage,—  "yes,  felon,  whom  to-morrow  I  could  consign  to  a 
life-long  imprisonment,  how  dare  you  make  conditions  with 
me?" 

But  he  recovered  himself  almost  immediately,  and  bade  me 
leave  the  room. 

"To-morrow,  sir,  will  see  me  far  from  this  city  with  her 
whom  your  unselfishness  is  so  anxious  to  divorce  from  her 
husband. 

"  Do  you  think,"  he  added  with  all  his  ancient  bitterness 
as  I  crossed  the  threshold,  "that  I  have  not  heard  of  the 
friend  of  the  family,  the  confidential  adviser,  the  Platonic 
lover,  the  rejected  suitor,  before  now  ?  " 

My  indiscretion  had  thus  broken  off  a  treaty  which  promised 
to  be  more  favorable  than  I  had  dared  to  hope.  If  Clara  could 
have  been  induced  to  leave  him,  the  business  might  have  been 
by  this  time  equitably,  or  at  least  legally,  settled ;  but  what 
was  to  be  done  now  ? 

I  went  again  to  my  acquaintance  of  the  night  before ;  for  it 
might  be  that  Leonard  Mason  had  compromised  himself  so 
deeply,  that  the  fear  of  the  law  would  bring  him  to  reason. 
His  all-absorbing  passion  for  play  might  have  led  him  within 


312  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

its  liabilities.     I  stated  my  case  to  this  person,  and  asked  if  he 
could  assist  me. 

"Certainly,"  said  he,  a  bright  thought  seeming  to  strike  him. 
"Come  with  me." 

After  a  short  consultation,  we  went  to  the  headquarters  of 
the  police,  where  I  procured  the  help  of  an  officer ;  and  we 
returned  to  the  lodging  of  the  Masons.  Leaving  the  officer 
outside,  I  entered,  and  found  the  captain  alone,  as  before,  but 
with  several  trunks  and  boxes  about  him,  evidently  prepared 
for  immediate  departure. 

"  Well,  Capt.  Mason,"  said,  I,  "  I  am  come  once  more  to 
repeat  my  offer  of  last  night." 

He  laughed  quite  scornfully,  and  replied,  — 

"  Since  you  are  so  hot  about  it,  sir,  you  must  now  give  forty 
thousand  for  the  lady.  I  will  take  no  less ;  and  in  two  hours 
it  will  be  too  late.  Go  to  your  hotel  in  the  mean  time,  and 
debate  the  question  of  l  love  or  money.' " 

"  You  do  not  move  from  this  place  unless  I  wish,"  I  an- 
swered. At  a  sign  from  me,  the  officer  entered ;  and  I  con- 
tinued :  — 

"  You  are  now  arrested  for  living  under  an  assumed  name, 
and  for  confining  your  wife  under  duress ;  and  you  will  be 
detained  in  prison  until  other  and  far  graver  charges  which 
may  be  brought  against  you  shall  have  been  substantiated." 

The  last  sentence  had  a  great  success,  as  I  could  see  by  his 
changing  color;  and  he  replied,  with  an  appearance  of  his  old 
frankness,  — 

"  You  have  out-manoeuvred  me,  I  confess :  withdraw  your 
forces,  pay  me  the  sum  you  proposed  at  first,  and  I  will  per- 
form my  part  of  the  business." 

The  officer  retired  at  my  request,  and  he  addressed  himself 
to  me  :  — 

"  Shall  I  take  an  oath  before  you  ?  or  will  my  word  suffice?" 

"  Sir,"  I  replied,  "  the  results  of  the  last  oath  you  took  in 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S  STORY.        313 

my  presence  have  not  been  such  as  to  induce  me  to  ask  you  for 
another." 

He  said  nothing ;  but  a  flush  came  to  his  face  which  re- 
minded me  of  that  which  had  reddened  it  in  his  rooms  years 
before.  I  drew  up  a  document  for  him  to  sign,  which  was  a 
literal  copy  of  one  I  had  received  from  a  lawyer,  and  which 
had  been  already  prepared  in  anticipation.  It  bound  him  by 
the  strongest  tie  —  his  own  interest  —  never  to  claim  Clara 
as  his  wife  again.  He  signed  it ;  while  I,  on  my  part,  gave 
him  a  check  for  the  money.  At  that  moment,  in  came  his 
poor  wife  in  her  bonnet  and  travelling-dress. 

"  You  may  take  those  things  off  again,"  said  her  husband 
calmly :  "  we  are  not  going  away." 

She  looked  from  him  to  me  with  a  sort  of  hope  just  awaken- 
ing in  her  tear- worn  face. 

"  You  are  going  home  to  your  father,  Clara,"  he  added. 

"  Thank  God,  thank  God ! "  she  said ;  "  and  thank  you, 
Leonard !  How  happy  you  have  made  me  !  We  will  go  together 
to  him  and  the  dear  old  place,  and  never  leave  him :  we  will 
forgive  and  forget;  won't  we,  dear  husband,  won't  we?" 

"  Mrs.  Mason,"  said  I,  "  your  husband  cannot  accompany 
you.  It  would  not  be  possible  for  your  father  to  see  him,  even 
if  he  chose  to  go ;  which  he  does  not." 

The  truth  is,  I  was  at  that  time  very  inexperienced  in  the 
female  character,  and  was  secretly  vexed  that  she  should  cling 
to  this  rotten  tree ;  nor  did  I  then  comprehend  that  woman's 
love  cleaves  to  its  chosen  object  through  disgrace,  neglect,  and 
crime. 

"  I  leave  not  my  husband,  sir,"  she  said  quietly,  "  until  death 
doth  us  part." 

She  stood  erect,  and  laid  her  hand  upon  his  shoulder,  but 
with  a  mournful  look :  it  was  the  dignity  of  love,  but  also  of 
despair.  He  quietly  and  coldly  put  her  arm  away. 

"  It  is  better  for  us  both,  Clara,"  he  said.     "  I  wish  it  to  be 
27 


314  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

so.  I  would  rather,"  he  added  with  some  effort,  "  that  you 
never  saw  my  face  again." 

She  gave  a  short,  sharp  cry,  and  fell  heavily  upon  the  floor. 

For  many  days  she  lay  fever-stricken  and  delirious ;  and  I 
was  unable  to  remove  her. 

Fortunately  I  knew  a  most  amiable  and  accomplished  lady 
in  the  city,  who  volunteered  her  assistance  to  me ;  for  I  was 
left  her  only  protector,  Capt.  Mason  having  departed,  no  one 
knew  whither.  My  sympathizing  friend  secured  the  attend- 
ance of  one  of  that  sisterhood  which  devotes  itself  to  the  alle- 
viation of  human  suffering  in  whatever  form  it  is  found;  and 
Clara  was  nursed  by  a  Sister  of  Charity,  who  scarcely  ever  left 
her  bedside. 

When,  at  last,  she  returned  to  consciousness,  the  face  hang- 
ing over  her  was  that  of  her  own  father  :  it  was  his  tremulous 
voice  that  answered  when  she  called,  "  Leonard,  Leonard !  " 

Nevertheless,  when  the  mist  over  her  mind  cleared  away, 
she  did  not  refuse  to  be  comforted,  even  at  first.  Whatever 
others  might  have  said  against  her  husband,  whatever  proofs 
of  his  unworthiness  might  have  been  shown  to  her,  she  would 
have  rejected;  but  his  own  renunciation  of  her  cut,  like  a 
sharp  sword,  her  heart-strings  from  him. 

She  never  asked  to  go  to  him  again.  He  became  to  her  an 
ideal  being.  The  portrait  she  possessed  of  him,  the  lock  of 
golden  hair,  the  love-letters  he  had  once  written  to  her,  were 
memorials  of  a  far  other  than  he  who  had  said,  — 

"  I  would  rather  that  you  never  saw  my  face  again." 

She  was  taken  back  to  the  old  house,  and  grew  resigned, 
and,  in  time,  almost  cheerful.  She  must  have  suffered  many 
and  terrible  things;  and  her  nature  recovered  itself  slowly  at 
the  touch  of  kindness,  as  the  drooping  flower  opens  gradually  to 
the  sun. 

The  old  man  became  almost  young  again,  and  scarcely  ever 
left  her.  He  was  fuller  of  kindliness  towards  me  than  ever ; 


THE  ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S  STORY.         315 

but  not  so  his  daughter:  and  I  was  not  wanted  at  Cleves  Court, 
I  saw ;  and  so  discontinued  my  visits. 

I  had  a  difficult  mission  to  perform  when  I  left  Cleves  Court 
for  Saratoga;  but  I  did  my  best,  and  with  no  motive  but  her 
good  to  inspire  me. 

Just  before  this  war  broke  out,  I  was  travelling  on  duty  in 
the  West,  and  embarked  at  Baton  Rouge  for  Natchez.  It  was 
late  in  the  evening  when  I  went  on  board ;  and,  without  no- 
ticing a  party  around  the  card-table  in  the  "social  hall"  of  the 
steamboat,  I  went  to  my  stateroom,  and  to  bed.  I  was  fa- 
tigued, and  slept  sound  until  morning ;  when  I  was  aroused 
by  a  hubbub  on  the  gang-plank,  the  steamer  having  stopped 
at  a  wooding-station.  I  looked  forth  from  my  little  window, 
and  saw  a  man  hustled  violently  ashore  by  the  indignant  pas- 
sengers amid  many  an  oath  and  execration.  Reaching  the 
levee,  he  turned  his  pale  face,  and  shook  his  fist  menacingly  at 
the  crowd  on  the  deck.  That  was  the  last  time  I  saw  Leonard 
Mason.  I  went  into  the  saloon,  and  found  the  passengers  and 
clerk  of  the  boat  engaged  in  examining  the  contents  of  a  valise 
they  said  was  his,  —  "  the  cheat." 

An  "  advantage-box,"  loaded  dice,  marked  cards,  were  suc- 
cessively drawn  forth  and  detected  by  these  experts,  who  had 
lost  heavily  the  night  before,  and  had  watched  the  professional 
gambler,  and  exposed  him.  I  thought  of  the  days,  not  far 
distant,  that  we  had  passed  at  the  Military  Academy,  and  how 
terribly  altered  was  that  skeleton  form  I  had  just  seen  ig- 
nominiously  expelled  from  the  society  of  his  fellows  from  the 
strong  and  sprightly  nervous  frame  of  the  young  cadet ;  and 
the  soul  too —  but  that  was  past  human  ken  or  judgment. 

What  has  become  of  the  lost  one  since  I  know  not ;  but 
have  heard,  that,  like  most  Southerners  of  military  education, 
he  is  now  in  the  confederate  army. 


THE    MAJOR'S    STORY. 

my  childhood,  my  friends,  I  have  been  a  soldier, 
_JL  and  my  earliest  recollections  are  of  the  barrack  and  the 
camp ;  while  my  youth  was  accustomed  to  the  field  and  the 
bivouac.  In  fact,  I  have  been  that  much-maligned  personage, 
a  soldier  of  fortune ;  which  means,  in  most  cases,  a  soldier  of 
wo  fortune  at  all. 

Once  in  my  life  I  resolved  to  relinquish  the  profession  of 
arms,  and  to  adopt  some  peaceful  calling  ;  but  inexorable  fate 
drove  me  back  to  the  career  which  I  began,  as  I  have  said, 
almost  in  childhood. 

After  having  given  my  sword  to  several  European  powers, 
and  also  lent  it  to  the  Turk,  without  finding  myself  any  better 
off  than  when  I  began,  I  determined  to  visit  the  land  of  prom- 
ise to  all  adventurers  like  myself,  and  came  to  this  country  to 
seek  a  home  and  a  family.  I  had  always  been  a  dreamer,  and 
to  acquire  these  blessings  was  the  dearest  wish  of  my  heart ; 
while  the  hope  of  its  realization  had  been  my  only  solace  in 
many  a  dreary  bivouac,  as  I  lay  on  the  ground  covered  with 
my  cloak,  gazing  upward  at  the  stars,  with  oftentimes  many 
a  poor  fellow  stark  and  stiff  in  his  gore  around  me. 

The  expenses  of  the  voyage  had  absorbed  all  the  little  ready 
money  I  possessed ;  and  I  landed  in  New  York  penniless, 
having  nothing  but  a  stout  heart  and  strong  limbs,  that  had  so 
often  stood  me  in  good  stead. 

It  was  the  autumnal  season ;  and  I  strolled  all  day  through 

816 


THE  MAJOR'S  STORY.  317 

the  busy  streets  of  the  great  metropolis  of  the  Western  World, 
studying  the  new  scenes  that  met  my  eye ;  and,  as  the  shades 
of  evening  fell,  I  stretched  myself  on  a  bench  in  Washington 
Square  to  rest. 

I  did  not  fear  observation ;  for  I  was  utterly  unknown.  I  was 
pale  and  careworn  after  my  voyage  :  and  my  clothes  were  by  no 
means  new,  —  "  my  beaver  gone  to  seed  ;  "  my  shoes,  like  those 
of  Julian  St.  Pierre,  "minus  half  their  soles."  I  saw  the 
yellow  leaves  of  the  maples  drop  from  their  boughs  as  the 
breeze  swept  through  them;  and  a  shudder  ran  through  my  heart 
at  the  sight.  They  were  hurled  round  and  round  by  the  tiny  cur- 
rents of  air  ;  and  at  last  borne  away,  Heaven  only  knew  whither. 
"  Such,"  thought  I,  "  are  my  hopes ;  "  and  I  compared  myself 
to  the  tree  from  which  they  had  been  torn.  In  the  green  spring- 
time of  life  my  heart  had  put  forth  its  blossoms  and  its  branches, 
and  many  a  bird  of  love  trilled  its  sweet  song  amid  its  fresh 
foliage  ;  but  all  had  gone.  The  young  plant  had  withered ;  and 
the  winds  beat  upon  it,  lone  and  melancholy.  Brooding  over 
such  thoughts  as  these,  I  clasped  my  hands  over  my  eyes  to 
shut  out  the  gleams  of  the  pale  stars,  and  wept  silently. 

I  thought  of  my  youth  and  its  golden  visions,  and  how,  like 
the  diamond  frost-work  that  is  melted  by  the  sun,  they,  too,  had 
"  vanished  into  thin  air."  I  thought  of  the  struggles  I  had  en- 
dured, the  perils  I  had  passed ;  of  how  I  had  labored  and 
fought,  not  for  myself,  but  for  others  ;  and,  worse  than  all,  how 
my  proud  heart  had  been  obliged  to  bow  to  the 

"  Spurns 
That  patient  merit  from  the  unworthy  takes." 

It  was  a  bitter  thought ;  but  I  pressed  my  hand  upon  my 
breast,  and  said  to  myself,  "  It  is  well." 

I  then  imagined  myself  married  and  the  father  of  a  family, 
although  still  in  the  humblest  pecuniary  circumstances.  I 
27* 


318  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

imagined,  that,  my  speculations  having  failed,  I  was  a  beggar. 
In  fancy,  I  reached  my  humble  abode  after  a  long  and  weary 
walk.  My  wife  came  out  to  meet  me ;  and  my  children  clasped 
my  knees,  and  flung  their  little  thin,  white  arms  around  my 
neck.  I  thought  of  the  morrow,  —  of  their  wants,  and  my  des- 
titution ;  and,  though  my  heart  dropped  tears  of  blood,  my  lips 
wore  a  smile,  and  I  cheered  them  with  words  of  hope  and 
lore.  I  bade  them  good-night  with  many  kisses ;  and  we  slept, 
and  dreamed  those  cold,  gray  dreams  that  hover  over  the  beds 
of  poverty. 

The  next  morning,  after  eating  a  scanty  breakfast,  I  went 
forth  to  earn  the  pittance  of  a  laborer.  My  heart  hung  in  my 
bosom  like  a  lump  of  lead,  and  I  bit  my  lips  to  hide  my  agony. 
My  rent  was  due,  and  I  had  not  a  farthing  to  pay  it.  I 
thought  of  my  pale  wife  and  little  children ;  and  imagined 
them  shivering  in  the  cold  air,  houseless  and  friendless. 

Wrapped  in  these  painful  fancies,  and  walking  with  my 
face  bent  towards  the  ground,  I  suddenly  spied  a  little  piece 
of  paper,  looking  like  a  bank-note,  lying  on  the  pavement. 

I  grasped  it  eagerly ;  but,  alas !  it  was  only  a  ticket  in  the 
Havana  lottery !  I  kept  it,  nevertheless,  and  that  day  asked 
a  barkeeper  what  No.  33,661  had  drawn. 

"Have  you  that  number  ?  "  asked  the  barkeeper  with  an  air 
of  surprise. 

"  Yes :  here  it  is,"  I  answered. 

"  That  ticket,  sir,  has  drawn  eight  thousand  dollars ;  and 
you  have  only  to  go  to  the  firm  of  P to  get  your  money." 

Who  could  describe  the  thoughts  that  rushed  like  meteors 
through  my  bosom?  I  was  as  rich  as  I  wished  to  be,  and 
could  now  hurl  back  with  scorn  the  taunts  of  those  who  had 
oppressed  me.  I  hastened  to  my  home,  while  the  ground 
seemed  to  fly  beneath  my  feet.  My  wife's  face  was  livid 
when  I  approached;  but,  when  I  told  her  of  my  fortune, 
she  burst  into  tears. 


THE  MAJORS  STORY.  319 

She  could  not  speak  for  joy ;  but,  falling  on  her  knees,  she 
clasped  her  thin,  white  hands,  and  thanked  God  for  his  bless- 
ings. She  spoke  not  a  word ;  but  the  mute  heart's  prayer 
rose  upwards,  sweet  and  fragrant  as  the  incense  from  the  holy 
censer.  I  could  not  even  smile ;  but  my  eye  was  again  lighted 
with  the  gleams  of  hope  and  joy. 

I  thought,  that,  in  a  day  or  two,  we  were  all  on  our  way  to 
find  a  home  in  the  West.  As  we  sped  up  the  lordly  Hudson 
on  the  magnificent  steamer,  my  arm  clasped  the  waist  of  my 
wife  as  we  sat  on  the  hurricane-deck :  and  as  we  watched  the 
buildings  of  the  great  city,  and  the  spires  of  her  churches,  and 
the  tall  masts  of  the  shipping,  as  they  faded  into  the  clouds,  I 
thought  of  those  whom  I  had  befriended,  and  who  had  requited 
my  kindness  with  contumely ;  and,  ah !  how  merrily  rang  the 
supper-bell  on  board  the  boat !  and  how  savory  was  the  smell 
of  the  food  upon  the  ample  table!  My  wife's  cheeks  were 
pale  no  longer ;  the  children  prattled  gayly ;  and  we  all  sat 
down  together  and  enjoyed  the  repast.  Thus  sped  day  after 
day  till  seven  had  passed,  when  we  reached  our  destination. 

I  soon  found  a  settler  itching  to  escape  from  even  advancing 
civilization,  and  of  him  bought,  with  the  proceeds  of  the  lot- 
tery-ticket, nearly  five  hundred  acres  of  rich  land,  good  farm- 
buildings,  and  all  his  stock  and  agricultural  appurtenances. 

We  were  soon  installed  in  our  new  residence,  and  were 
happy,  —  perfectly  happy.  The  first  night  of  our  occupancy  I 
sat  on  the  balcony  of  my  little  house,  smoking  my  pipe,  and 
gazing  on  the  beautiful  scene  spread  before  me.  The  tall  trees 
around  the  house  seemed  to  bow  and  do  homage  to  me  as  to 
their  master.  I  could  hear  the  lowing  of  the  kine  in  the  cattle- 
yard,  and  see  the  broad  fields  teeming  with  abundant  crops. 
They  were  all  mine  now.  I  saw  the  brook  that  ran  silvery 
in  the  pale  moonlight  as  softly  as  a  dream.  I  thought  how, 
on  the  morrow,  I  would  take  my  gun,  and  wage  a  crusade 
against  the  game  that  chirped  on  the  prairie  in  shot  of  my  very 


320  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

door.  After  these  pleasant  musings  and  anticipations,  I  went 
to  bed  with  a  heart  light  as  a  feather,  and  dreamed  sweet 
dreams. 

The  next  morning,  just  as  the  sun  was  tinging  the  summits 
of  the  hills,  and  the  birds  were  singing  their  early  songs  to 
the  light  of  day,  I  awoke,  started,  and  found  myself  still  in 
Washington  Square. 

I  had  been  sleeping  all  the  while,  and  the  lottery-ticket  was 
but  a  figment  of  my  dream.  My  hat  had  fallen  from  my 
head,  and  was  nearly  filled  with  dead  leaves.  Among  them 
was  a  piece  of  paper.  It  was  a  fragment  of  a  boy's  kite  that 
had  been  caught  in  the  trees  and  blown  to  pieces.  On  it  was 
written,  in  a  schoolboy's  round  hand,  "  Patience  and  perse- 
verance will  accomplish  every  "  —  and  here  the  sentence  broke 
off.  It  was  evidently  a  leaf  torn  from  a  boy's  copy-book :  but 
I  gave  it  a  long,  wistful  look ;  and,  while  my  visions  faded 
away  forever,  I  resolved  to  profit  by  the  aphorism. 

The  sun  had  just  withdrawn  his  face  from  the  bloody  plain 
of  Shiloh.  The  conflict,  which  had  raged  for  two  days  with 
unceasing  fury  between  the  armies  of  Grant  and  Buell  and 
those  of  Johnston  and  Beauregard,  had  terminated  in  the 
defeat  of  the  latter,  which,  under  cover  of  the  approaching 
night,  was  fleeing  before  its  victorious  foe. 

Yet  our  victory  was  not  a  great  one,  as  by  it  we  simply 
regained  the  camps  from  which  we  had  been  driven ;  though, 
in  point  of  fighting,  the  case  was  doubtless  in  our  favor.  The 
confederates  chose  their  own  time  and  place  of  attack, 
pounced  upon  an  inferior  force,  and  performed  a  feat  that 
military  writers  declare  is  impossible  against  a  well-disciplined 
army,  —  effected  a  complete  surprise.  A  stronger  combina- 
tion of  adverse  circumstances  could  hardly  be  imagined  than 
that  which  operated  against  the  Union  army;  yet  we  finally 
repulsed  them. 


THE  MAJORS  STORY.  321 

I  rode  forward  with  the  pursuing  cavalry.  Vain  had  been 
the  courage  of  the  rebel  troops ;  fruitless  the  exertions  of  John- 
ston, who  met  his  death  on  the  field :  his  army  was  now  in 
hurried  retreat.  The  shouts  of  the  victors,  the  shrieks  of  the 
wounded,  and  the  feeble  moans  of  the  dying,  the  wild  ravings 
of  thirst,  cries  for  succor,  and  even  prayers  for  death,  were  all 
unheeded  by  the  eager  hosts  intent  on  pursuit  and  escape. 
Since  the  evening  I  had  spent  in  Washington  Square,  matters 
had  prospered  with  me  :  my  dream  had  been  realized.  I  had 
settled  in  a  growing  Western  State,  married,  and  had  a  small 
family.  But  this  great  struggle  in  which  we  are  now  en- 
gaged came  on.  My  military  knowledge  and  experience  were 
called  for,  if  not  appreciated ;  and  I  was  forced  by  circum- 
stances to  take  part  in  the  conflict.  Although  my  property 
lay  in  the  South-west,  I  never  hesitated  an  instant  which  side 
to  take.  I  enlisted  in  a  regiment  of  cavalry  recruited  in  my 
State,  and  was  appointed  adjutant  by  our  colonel,  who, 
innocent  of  all  knowledge  of  the  art  of  war  himself,  was  not 
blind  to  the  advantage  of  having  an  old  soldier  at  his  right 
hand. 

The  enemy's  retreat  was  conducted  in  good  order,  and  his 
rear-guard  covered  the  army  with  undaunted  coolness.  Our 
cavalry  cut  down  or  dispersed  many  stragglers ;  but  their 
farther  advance  was  checked  by  a  steady  line  just  visible  in 
the  approaching  dusk,  and  a  volley  which  emptied  many  sad- 
dles. Suddenly  I  felt  my  horse  reel  and  tumble  under  me, 
and  my  own  strength  fail ;  and  instantly  both  horse  and  man 
measured  their  length  upon  the  sod.  How  long  I  lay  bereft  of 
all  my  faculties  I  know  not ;  but,  returning  to  consciousness, 
I  found  myself  near  a  heap  of  mutilated  corpses. 

The  first  object  which  caught  my  eye  was  a  canteen  sus- 
pended to  the  side  of  a  dead  rebel  officer,  and  glittering  fee- 
bly in  the  pale  moonlight.  Inspired  by  hope,  I  crawled  to 
the  body  of  the  confederate  as  quickly  as  I  could,  and  seized 


322  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

the  envied  treasure.  I  was  not  disappointed;  for  the  canteen 
held  some  excellent  whiskey,  a  small  quantity  of  which  greatly 
revived  me. 

Sitting  down  near  the  place  where  I  had  lain  hy  the  side  of 
my  poor  horse,  which  had  been  slain,  I  began  seriously  to 
reflect  on  the  predicament  to  which  the  fortune  of  war  had 
reduced  me.  I  first  examined  my  body  and  limbs  in  search 
of  the  wound  which  had  so  inopportunely  placed  me  hors  du 
combat;  but,  finding  no  visible  hurt,  I  concluded  (what  was 
really  the  case)  that  the  soreness  in  my  head,  and  my  late 
swoon,  were  due  to  a  contusion  I  had  received  from  the  fall  of 
my  horse.  I  recalled  perfectly  the  circumstances  of  my  fall ; 
and,  as  these  were  sufficient  to  account  for  all  the  bruises  I 
had  sustained,  further  conjectures  were  useless.  My  posi- 
tion was  not  an  agreeable  one.  I  knew  the  bitterness  with 
which  the  war  was  waged  by  the  confederates,  and  the  risk  I 
ran  of  being  either  massacred  upon  the  field,  or  starved  to 
death  in  one  of  their  vile  prisons ;  and  these  considerations 
made  me  pluck  up  my  spirit,  with  the  determination  to  use 
my  best  efforts  to  save  (what  I  had  the  utmost  respect  for) 
my  neck,  but  to  bear  my  fate,  whatever  it  might  be,  with 
manly  fortitude.  I  soon  decided  upon  the  plan  of  action  to  be 
pursued  in  case  I  was  taken  prisoner. 

In  the  course  of  my  military  career,  I  had  seen  too  often 
the  immense  value  of  a  knowledge  of  medicine  and  surgery 
to  the  professional  soldier,  and  had  pursued  my  studies  in 
that  direction  during  the  intervals  of  garrison-life  and  other 
leisure  times.  I  had  a  general  smattering  of  the  principles 
of  the  healing  art ;  had  frequently  assisted  at  important  sur- 
gical operations;  knew  the  best  styptics  in  use;  and  had 
acquired  a  practical  knowledge  of  phlebotomy.  In  my  pres- 
ent dilemma,  these  accomplishments  might  prove  very  use- 
ful. 

Accordingly,  I  resolved  to  dub  myself  a  surgeon  pro  tern- 


THE  MAJORS  STORY.  323 

• »» 

pore,  and  to  pass  as  such  with  the  enemy ;  trusting  that  my 
quality  of  non-combatant  would  rescue  me  from  the  fate 
which  would  inevitably  follow  the  avowal  of  my  real  rank. 
Escape  was  impossible  if  the  patrols  of  the  enemy  returned, 
even  if  my  limbs  had  been  supple  enough  to  bear  me  on  a  retreat. 
We  had  been  led  far  in  the  advance,  and  I  was  entirely  igno- 
rant of  the  position  of  either  army.  My  best  policy,  then,  was 
to  remain  where  I  was ;  and  I  adopted  it,  hoping  that  the 
federal  army  would  first  come  to  the  field  to  collect  their 
wounded.  In  the  mean  time  my  reveries  were  unbroken, 
save  by  the  occasional  cries  of  the  mutilated  wretches  who 
surrounded  me,  several  of  whom  were  menaced  by  the  turkey- 
buzzards,  which  already  thronged  the  field  in  quest  of  their 
loathsome  prey. 

A  cry  of  agony  suddenly  struck  my  ear;  and,  looking  in 
the  direction  whence  it  proceeded,  I  saw  a  young  man  on  his 
back,  striving  fruitlessly  with  his  feet  to  drive  away  some  of 
those  carnivorous  birds  of  which  I  have  spoken.  My  first 
impulse,  as  I  dragged  myself  towards  him,  was  humane; 
nor  did  the  sight  of  his  gray  uniform  check  its  operation.  I 
soon  scattered  the  carrion  birds ;  and,  having  administered  a 
drop  of  my  precious  cordial  to  the  parched  lips  of  the  sufferer, 
began  the  duties  of  my  assumed  profession  by  an  examination 
of  his  wounds.  Both  arms  were  severely  injured  by  a  mus- 
ket-ball. I  soon  bound  them  up,  —  a  shirt  from  a  neighbor- 
ing corpse  supplying  me  with  the  requisite  bandages,  —  the 
confederate  officer  (for  such  he  was)  regarding  me  meanwhile 
with  looks  of  mingled  surprise  and  admiration. 

At  last  an  exclamation  burst  from  his  lips,  and  he  almost 
overwhelmed  me  with  a  torrent  of  thanks.  Modestly  waiving 
the  subject  of  my  own  deserts,  I  inquired  if  he  had  any  hope 
of  soon  being  removed. 

"Ay,  indeed!"  cried  he.  "John  Middleton  would  have 
been  here  long  before  this,  but  for  some  insuperable  obsta- 


324  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

cle."  And,  glancing  at  my  uniform,  he  added,  "  Do  you  keep 
up  your  spirits  ;  for,  although  iny  arm  is  unable  to  defend 
you,  the  word  of  Tom  Yancey  has  weight  with  my  comrades, 
and  you  shall  see  that  a  rebel  may  possess  a  grateful  heart. 
But  what  do  I  see  ?  Surely  my  eyes  deceive  me,  or  I  recog- 
nize the  canteen  of  Bill  Davis,  of  my  regiment !  " 

I  explained  how  it  came  into  my  possession. 

"  Ah  !  then  he  has  fallen  at  last !  —  Poor  Davis !  the  merriest 
fellow  in  the  regiment,  and  a  true  lover  of  old  Bourbon." 

His  enumeration  of  his  comrade's  virtues  was  interrupted 
by  a  shout  from  a  distant  part  of  the  field  ;  and  the  dawn,  just 
then  breaking,  showed  us  four  or  five  confederate  soldiers  cau- 
tiously seeking  among  the  wounded.  Yancey  at  once  declared 
that  his  friend  John  Middleton  was  approaching,  and  requested 
me  to  answer  the  call ;  which  I  did.  In  a  few  moments  the  party 
came  up.  I  must  confess  that  I  felt  rather  uneasy  as  the  crisis 
of  my  fate  approached,  notwithstanding  the  assurances  of  my 
new  friend. 

The  rebels,  however,  took  not  the  slightest  notice  of  me,  their 
whole  attention  being  engrossed  by  the  wounded  lieutenant ; 
but  when  they  had  heard  a  relation  of  his  sufferings,  and  learnt 
the  kindness  he  had  received  from  a  federal  officer,  not  even  the 
Union  uniform  I  wore  could  save  me  from  the  thanks  and  sym- 
pathy of  his  grateful  friends. 

A  litter  was  prepared  for  Lieut.  Yancey,  while  two  stout 
confederates  supported  me  in  their  arms:  the  glass  of  friend- 
ship circulated  for  the  last  time,  and  we  prepared  to  leave  the 
gory  field.  At  this  moment  a  rebel  officer  rode  up,  and,  catch- 
ing a  glimpse  of  my  hated  garb,  appeared  much  astonished  at 
this  unwonted  display  of  confraternity.  He  was  soon  acquainted 
with  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  and,  turning  to  me,  highly 
complimented  my  humanity  and  skill. 

"  This  is  indeed  an  auspicious  meeting,  sir,"  said  he.  "  If 
you  are  indeed  a  surgeon,  your  services  are  this  instant  required 
by  one  who  will  justly  appreciate  them." 


THE  MAJOR'S  STORY.  325 

Not  anticipating  that  my  skill  would  be  so  immediately  put  to 
the  test,  I  felt  extremely  awkward.  I  might  he  called  upon  to 
perform  an  operation  in  which  my. ignorance  would  be  manifest. 
I  had,  however,  "  staked  my  life  upon  the  cast,  and  must  abide 
the  hazard  of  the  die."  Bowing  to  the  officer,  therefore,  I  ex- 
pressed my  readiness  to  make  myself  useful  in  any  capacity. 

A  stray  horse  was  soon  caught.  I  was  helped  to  mount  him ; 
and  bidding  adieu  to  Middleton  and  Yancey,  who  were  profuse 
in  their  acknowledgments  and  kind  wishes,  I  accompanied  the 
officer,  who  was  attended  by  two  orderlies.  We  struck  into  a 
narrow  and  devious  path  leading  through  the  woods.  After 
riding  about  four  miles,  we  arrived  at  a  log  farmhouse,  in  a 
clearing,  around  which  several  horses  were  picketed;  while  the 
number  of  officers  and  orderlies  constantly  passing  to  and  fro 
showed  it  to  be  the  temporary  headquarters  of  an  officer  of 
high  rank.  This  discovery  did  not  lessen  my  apprehensions. 
We  alighted ;  and  the  officer  who  accompanied  me,  and  who 
had  remained  silent  during  our  ride,  threw  his  gray  cloak  over 
my  shoulders,  doubtless  with  a  view  of  screening  me  from  the 
observation  of  the  rebels ;  whispered  me  to  be  of  good  heart, 
and  to  wait  his  return ;  and  left  me  in  the  rude  veranda  of  the 
log-cabin.  Nodding  assent,  I  seated  myself  on  a  rough  wooden 
bench,  and  looked  around.  Several  officers  lounged  about, 
smoking,  and  conversing  on  the  events  of  the  battle.  A 
middle-aged  confederate  near  me  was  talking  with  a  young 
man;  and  some  of  their  words  reached  my  ears, -although  they 
spoke  in  a  low  key. 

"  A  confounded  hard  day's  work  we  have  had  of  it,"  said  the 
eldest.  "  The  Yanks  fought  like  lions.  The  fortune  of  the  battle 
fluctuated  more  than  once  before  we  lost  it." 

"  Ay,"  replied  the  youngest :  "  we  had  it  all  our  own  way 
on  Sunday ;  but  the  re-enforcements  coming  up  under  Buell 
gave  them  the  victory  at  last." 

"  That  blasted  gunboat  greatly  annoyed  us,"  said  the  elder, 
28 


326  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

"  by  her  broadsides.  Our  division  was  almost  decimated  by 
her  shells.  But  for  her,  I  think  we  should  have  broken  the 
enemy's  line." 

"Their  batteries  were  splendidly  served,"  returned  the  junior 
officer :  "  we  took  six  of  them  six  times,  which  were  retaken  as 
often,  at  enormous  cost  to  us  and  to  them." 

"  The  federals  were  badly  demoralized  on  Sunday  evening," 
said  the  first.  "  Their  soldiers  were  huddled  together  under 
the  high  bank  of  the  river,  and  could  not  be  persuaded  to  face 
us  by  their  officers.  There  was  inextricable  confusion  among 
them ;  and  the  gunboats  not  only  saved  them,  but,  setting  the 
woods  on  fire,  caused  the  death  of  many  of  our  wounded." 

"  The  re-enforcements  of  Price  and  Van  Dorn,"  said  the 
younger,  "were  neutralized  by  the  arrival  of  their  Tennessee 
army,  and  all  our  expectations  destroyed.  The  slaughter  yes- 
terday was  terrible ! " 

"It  was  Greek  meeting  Greek.  My  men  saw,  and  even 
hailed,  their  own  neighbors  in  the  deadly  struggle.  Poor 
Johnston !  A  braver  or  an  abler  soldier  never  drew  a  sword. 
He  was  left  on  the  field,  and  B " 

"  Hush  ! "  interrupted  the  younger  man.  "  The  general  now 
lies  in  this  house,  wounded  in  the  hand  :  our  stupid  surgeons 
have  been  these  two  hours  trying  in  vain  to  stanch  the  blood 
which  flows  from  it;  but  the  hemorrhage  defies  their  efforts. 
Unless  it  is  speedily  stopped,  he  is  in  danger  of  following  his 
colleague." 

The  colloquy  was  broken  off  by  the  entrance  of  the  officer 
who  had  brought  me  to  the  cabin,  and  who  made  me  a  sign  to 
follow  him.  I  had  heard  enough,  however,  to  satisfy  me  that 
the  person  to  whom  I  was  about  to  be  introduced  was  no  other 

than  Gen.  B ,  now,  since  the  death  of  Albert  Sidney 

Johnston,  commander-in-chief  of  the  rebel  army. 

The  certainty  was  by  no  means  calculated  to  augment  my 
self-confidence.  But  I  had  no  time  for  reflection.  My  conductor 


THE  MAJOR'S  STORY.  327 

led  me  into  a  narrow  entry,  at  the  end  of  which  was  a  low  door: 
this  was  opened  to  us  by  an  old  woman ;  and  we  entered  a  small 
room,  one  side  of  which  was  occupied  by  a  rude  bed,  where  lay 
a  man  of  middle  age  and  stature,  with  a  stern  but  not  ferocious 
countenance,  in  which  was  something  which  checked  familiar- 
ity, and  inspired  the  beholder  with  a  feeling  of  respect  border- 
ing upon  awe. 

On  the  back  of  a  chair  was  thrown  his  uniform  of  confederate 
gray,  the  collar  simply  adorned  with  the  insignia  of  his  rank, 
and  his  sword.  Two  officers,  seemingly  of  rank,  were  seated 
at  a  little  distance,  anxiously  regarding  a  third  person,  who  was 
kneeling,  and  applying  to  the  wounded  limb  cloths  which  were 
absolutely  saturated  with  blood.  The  old  woman  resumed  her 
station  at  the  fire.  The  general  slowly  raised  his  eyes  at  our 
entrance,  and  fixed  them  steadily  upon  my  face  for  a  mo- 
ment; when,  as  if  satisfied  with  the  scrutiny,  his  features 
relaxed  from  the  expression  of  hauteur  which  they  had  worn, 
and  he  addressed  me  in  a  weak  though  clear  voice :  — 

"  I  am  told,  young  man,  that  your  humanity  has  been  already 
exercised  in  behalf  of  a  fallen  enemy.  I  also  require  the  aid 
of  your  healing  art.  Pray,  may  I  ask  where  you  received  your 
medical  education." 

"  The  little  knowledge  I  possess,  general,"  I  replied,  "  has 
been  acquired  in  Belgium." 

"  You  are,  then,  a  native  of  that  country,  I  presume,"  said 
the  general,  "  and  not  an  American." 

"  Pardon  me,  general,"  I  returned  :  "  I  am  by  birth  an  Eng- 
lishman." 

"  'Tis  well,  sir.  I  resign  myself  to  your  treatment ;  that  is, 
if  you  will  condescend  to  give  the  benefit  of  your  surgical 
skill  to  a  rebel." 

"  'Tis  my  duty  as  well  as  my  pleasure,  general,  to  relieve 
suffering,  whether  I  find  it  in  a  friend  or  an  enemy." 

«  Mr. "  (I  did  not  catch  the  name),  said  the  general 


328  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

to  the  kneeling  man,  "  you  will  prepare  yourself  to  follow  im- 
plicitly the  directions  of  this  gentleman ;  and,"  he  pursued 
with  a  sneer,  "  you  may  chance  to  acquire  a  lesson  in  the  prac- 
tice of  an  art  of  which  you  now  seem  to  know  only  the 
theory." 

The  abashed  surgeon  rose  from  his  humhle  posture,  and, 
as  he  relinquished  his  place,  darted  at  me  a  look  full  of  malig- 
nity, while  I  proceeded,  not  without  some  trepidation,  to 
survey  the  wounded  limb.  My  fears  were  somewhat  alleviated 
on  discovering  that  the  hurt  was  not  of  a  very  serious  nature. 
A  musket-ball  had  traversed  the  fleshy  part  of  the  inside  of 
the  hand,  and  the  wound  owed  much  of  its  irritation  to  un- 
necessary probing ;  to  allay  which,  and  to  stop  the  hemorrhage, 
seemed  to  be  the  first  things  to  be  done. 

I  called  for  some  simple  styptics,  readily  obtained  ;  applied 
them  to  the  wounded  hand,  and  the  bleeding  stopped.  I  ban- 
daged it  securely,  administered  a  composing  draught  from  a 
portable  camp  medicine-chest  at  hand,  and  desired  that  the 
general  should  be  left  to  repose.  All  instantly  prepared  to 
leave  the  room  except  the  nurse  and  the  crest-fallen  doctor, 
whose  name,  I  was  told,  was  Mercier,  a  native  of  New  Orleans. 
Col.  Game,  the  officer  who  had  been  my  conductor,  and  by 
whom  the  scowl  of  the  indignant  practitioner  had  not  passed 
unheeded,  fearing  lest  his  envious  feelings  might  induce  him 
to  counteract  the  good  effects  of  my  remedy,  commanded  him 
to  retire ;  an  order  which  he  obeyed  with  visible  dissatisfaction. 
I  was  then  conducted  into  an  adjoining  room,  in  which  we 
found  refreshment  awaiting  us  of  a  substantial  kind,  and  a 
tolerable  bed,  which  seemed  to  me  the  couch  of  a  Sybarite 
after  my  recent  fatigues.  I  did  not  awake  until  late  in  the 
day ;  when  I  again  dressed  the  general's  wound,  and  prepared 
him  to  enjoy  the  night's  sleep.  Early  on  the  following  morn- 
ing I  was  aroused  by  Col.  Game,  who,  having  inquired  in  a 
friendly  manner  after  my  health,  begged  my  acceptance  of  a 


THE  MAJOR'S  STORY.  329 

plain  gray  frock-coat,  "which,"  said  he,  "  will  not  be  conspicu- 
ous, and  may  spare  you  unpleasant  remarks  that  some  of  our 
officers  might  feel  authorized  to  make  at  sight  of  a  Union 
uniform." 

"It  is  not  intended  to  place  you  under  any  particular  re- 
straint," he  added.  "  You  will  give  me  your  parole  of  honor  to 
attempt  no  escape  :  indeed,  the  effort  would  he  vain,  and  would 
only  subject  you  to  a  penalty  which  even  those  disposed  to  serve 
you  would  be  unable  to  avert.  Take  my  advice,  then,  and  he 
patient.  The  general's  rest  has  been  undisturbed  during  the 
night,  the  greater  part  of  which  I  remained  in  his  room :  he 
feels  much  refreshed  ;  and  we  shall  all  start  this  forenoon  for 
Corinth,  the  general  riding  in  a  carriage.  Upon  arrival  there, 
unless  we  are  pursued  by  the  federal  army,  he  hopes  that  he 
will  be  well  in  a  few  days,  with  your  aid ;  when  it  is  probable 
that  the  first  moment  of  his  recovery  will  be  the  last  of  your 
captivity.  We  will  now,  if  you  please,  visit  the  general,  whose 
wound  requires  your  attention  to  prepare  him  for  the  journey. 
Recollect  that  you  have  already  gained  two  friends ;  and  have 
a  fair  chance  of  securing  a  third,  whose  interest  is  of  far  greater 
value." 

I  readily  gave  my  parole,  thanking  Col.  Game  for  his 
good  advice,  and  declaring  that  I  should  follow  it  implicitly ; 
and  together  we  entered  the  general's  chamber. 

I  found  the  inflammation  considerably  abated,  and  the  suf- 
ferer much  better.  Having  renewed  the  dressing,  I  retired  to 
the  veranda  and  joined  Col.  Game,  who  introduced  me  to 
several  officers  of  the  general  staff  assembled  for  their  frugal 
breakfast,  and  who  received  me  with  marked  politeness. 
When  the  meal  had  been  silently  discussed,  the  much-worn 
carriage  brought  to  the  door  and  made  ready  for  the  occupa- 
tion of  the  general,  the  company  mounted ;  and,  before  noon, 
our  cavalcade  was  slowly  advancing  toward  luka  and  Corinth. 

This  last  place  is  a  strong  strategic  point.     It  lies  in  the 

28* 


330  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

bosom  of  a  semi-mountainous  country,  the  surrounding  hills 
forming  an  irregular  circle  from  four  to  eight  miles  in  diameter. 
The  Mobile  and  Ohio  Railway  crosses  the  ridge  formed  by  these 
hills,  through  a  cut  seventy-five  feet  in  depth  perpendicular- 
ly. Similar  cuts  of  less  depth  penetrate  the  hills  on  the  east, 
west,  and  south,  where  the  different  railways  enter.  Beyond 
these  hills,  in  the  direction  of  Pittsburg  and  Savannah,  the 
ground  becomes  more  level,  and  much  of  it  is  low  and  swampy. 
The  country  is  diversified,  the  soil  fertile ;  and  there  are  ex- 
tensive forests  of  oak,  hickory,  walnut,  and  pine.  The  principal 
military  value  of  Corinth  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  is  a  great  rail- 
way centre  for  the  different  lines  of  the  South-west. 

Aa  I  rode  near  the  carriage  of  the  general  with  Col.  Game, 
I  had  an  opportunity  of  learning  some  of  the  reasons  for 
the  retrograde  movement  we  were  making,  and  was  also  in- 
structed on  many  political  points  about  which  I  had  not 
hitherto  been  informed.  We  arrived  late  in  the  day  at  the 
town  of  Corinth ;  and  orders  were  given,  immediately  upon  our 
arrival,  to  strengthen  the  defences  of  the  place,  and  to  re-organ- 
ize the  troops,  as  their  shattered  regiments  arrived,  after  their 
terrible  losses  at  Pittsburg  Landing.  Col.  Game  and  myself 
were  quartered  in  a  small  two-roomed  house  near  the  head- 
quarters of  the  general,  into  which  we  withdrew  to  partake  of 
some  refreshment. 

Later,  allured  by  the  beauty  of  the  evening,  I  was  induced 
to  cross  the  threshold,  and  almost  unconsciously  strolled  to  the 
farther  extremity  of  the  enclosure  in  which  the  house  was 
situated.  The  little  yard  was  surrounded  by  tall  trees,  through 
which  an  opening  was  scarcely  perceptible,  and  was  about  an 
acre  in  extent.  Finding  a  stump  of  a  tree  which  had  been 
lately  felled,  I  sat  down  on  it,  and  insensibly  fell  into  my  cus- 
tomary inveterate  habit  of  revery.  Time  passed  unheeded; 
and  it  is  uncertain  how  long  1  might  have  remained  in  my 
brown  study,  had  I  not  been  suddenly  aroused  by  a  rustling 


THE  MAJOR'S  STORY.  331 

sound.  Springing  to  my  feet,  I  gazed  attentively  around,  but 
could  perceive  nothing  to  indicate  whence  the  noise  proceeded. 
I  had  begun  to  believe  it  was  the  work  of  imagination,  when 
the  same  sound  again  arrested  my  attention.  I  started  sudden- 
ly :  and  well  was  it  for  me  that  I  did  so ;  for  the  sharp  crack 
of  a  revolver  quickly  followed  the  sound,  and  I  was  saved  from 
its  bullet  only  by  my  precipitate  movement ;  for  the  leaden  pro- 
jectile grazed  my  head  as  it  perforated  my  hat.  I  rushed  in 
the  direction  of  the  report  only  to  see  indistinctly  a  dark  form 
swiftly  hurrying  through  the  belt  of  trees  encircling  the  yard. 
I  halted,  and  was  joined  by  Col.  Game,  who  had  heard  the 
sound,  and  came  to  seek  me;  and  who,  on  learning  what  had 
happened,  warmly  congratulated  me  on  my  escape.  All  search 
for  the  assassin  at  that  hour  being  deemed  useless,  we  returned 
together  to  the  house.  The  suspicions  of  the  colonel  and  my- 
self pointed  toward  Mercier ;  but,  having  no  confirmatory 
proof,  we  resolved  to  conceal  our  opinions  for  the  present,  and 
content  ourselves  with  adopting  precautionary  measures  against 
a  similar  attempt. 

Lieut.  Yancey  soon  called  upon  me,  and  insisted  upon  super- 
intending the  arrangement  of  my  little  comforts.  He  had 
nearly  recovered  from  his  wound  in  the  right  arm  ;  and  point- 
ing to  his  left,  which  he  wore  in  a  sling,  said,  "  You  see,  sir, 
I  am  still  on  the  list  of  non-effectives :  therefore  you  can  avail 
yourself  of  my  proffered  services  without  the  fear  of  encroach- 
ing upon  my  military  duties." 

I  would  not  hurt  his  feelings  by  refusing  his  request ;  and 
soon  his  voice  was  heard  in  and  about  the  premises,  authorita- 
tively demanding  every  thing  requisite  for  my  complete  accom- 
modation. 

About  a  week  elapsed,  during  which  the  general's  wound 
had  fully  healed  ;  and  in  the  daily  preparations  he  was  making 
to  receive  our  army,  then  advancing  to  besiege  Corinth,  he 
appeared  to  have  utterly  forgotten  me,  and  the  hopes  of  liberty 


332  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

which  had  been  held  out  to  me.  Col.  Game  was  absent  at 
luka,  and  his  return  was  uncertain :  and,  heartily  tired  of  a 
life  of  unaccustomed  inaction,  I  became  uneasy  and  dejected ; 
nor  could  the  persevering  solicitude  of  Yancey  and  his  inex- 
haustible gaieti  de  cceur  suffice  at  all  times  to  relieve  my 
depression. 

In  this  frame  of  mind  I  would  frequently  wander  into  the 
suburbs  of  the  little  town  to  a  grove  of  trees  that  had  been 
spared  from  the  fate  of  all  the  others  in  the  vicinity  by  orders 
from  headquarters,  prompted  by  a  recognition  of  the  necessity 
that  would  soon  exist  for  firewood  and  timber  nearer  the  cen- 
tre of  the  place  than  the  surrounding  forest  when  it  should  be 
beleagured  by  our  advancing  forces.  A  few  log-cabins  stood 
here  and  there  around  it.  Here,  screened  from  observation,  as 
I  imagined,  by  the  friendly  shelter  of  the  huge  tree-trunks,  I 
indulged  my  dark  fancies,  and  even  suffered  my  ideas  to  roam 
beyond  the  bounds  of  this  sublunary  world ;  and,  for  a  brief 
space,  forgot  the  sad  reality  of  my  captive  state.  The  grove, 
disturbed  by  no  other  sound  than  the  sighing  of  the  wind 
through  its  vaulted  aisles,  as  it  seemed  to  float  in  undulating 
sound,  in  its  gloomy  grandeur  accorded  with  my  soul's  melan- 
choly. Once,  while  in  one  of  these  reveries,  I  was  suddenly 
aroused  by  the  approach  of  footsteps.  A  figure  muffled  in  a 
homespun  cloak  advanced,  and,  thrusting  a  slip  of  paper  in 
my  hand,  hastily  retreated,  and  was  quickly  lost  in  the  gloom. 
Surprised  at  the  incident,  and  anxious  to  ascertain  the  purport 
of  the  mysterious  scroll,  I  bent  my  steps  towards  the  outer 
skirting  of  the  grove,  and  read  as  follows  :  — 

"Do  the  chains  of  the  rebels  sit  so  easy  on  thy  limbs  that 
thou  wishest  to  continue  in  bondage  ?  If  not,  and  if  thou  wilt 
break  thy  fetters,  meet  the  writer  of  this  at  the  rear  of  the 
cabin  nearest  the  grove  to-morrow  at  midnight.  Burn  this !  " 

There  were  certain  mystic  characters  rudely  traced  on  the 
paper,  the  meaning  of  which  I  did  not  understand ;  but  I 


THE  MAJOR'S  STORY.  333 

knew  at  once  that  the  missive  came  from  some  one  of  those 
secret  societies  which  had  sprung  up  throughout  the  South, 
since  the  breaking-out  of  the  great  civil  war,  under  various  names. 
Some  of  these  circles  were  formed  to  aid  the  Confederacy  in 
the  attempt  to  set  up  a  government  of  their  own  within  the 
limits  of  the  United  States;  others  had  for  their  object  the 
protection  of  the  Union  men  of  the  South  who  adhered  to 
the  government  of  their  fathers ;  while  still  others  were  insti- 
tuted for  the  protection  of  deserters  from  the  military  conscrip- 
tion ordered  by  the  Richmond  government,  which  was  and  is 
exceedingly  unpopular  throughout  Secessia,  as  you  all  probably 
know. 

Having  carefully  perused  the  paper,  I  deposited  it  in  my 
vest,  and  hastened  to  my  quarters,  where  I  learned  with  satisfac- 
tion that  Col.  Game  had  retired  to  rest.  Seated  in  my  apart- 
ment, I  sought  the  missive,  intending  to  burn  it  as  requested; 
but  it  was  not  to  be  found. 

I  was  greatly  alarmed.  I  might  have  dropped  it  where  it 
would  have  been  picked  up  by  some  one  belonging  to  the  gar- 
rison :  its  import  would  evidently  direct  suspicion  toward  my- 
self. My  situation  was  a  critical  one  ;  but  I  could  do  nothing : 
I  could  only  await  events. 

Resolving,  however,  to  try  to  recover  the  lost  missive  early 
the  next  morning,  I  threw  myself  on  my  couch  ;  but  sleep  for 
many  hours  refused  to  visit  my  eyelids,  and  daylight  found  me 
wearied  in  body,  and  agitated  in  mind.  I  rose,  however,  with 
the  dawn,  and  hurried  to  the  grove,  traversed  its  paths  with 
rapid  steps,  and  searched  in  every  direction  for  the  lost  paper, 
but  without  success. 

Bitterly  execrating  my  carelessness,  I  returned  home  in  a 
state  of  mind  bordering  on  despair.  Yancey  was  present  at 
breakfast,  which  had  been  prepared  under  his  auspices,  but  ex- 
pressed no  surprise  at  my  early  absence ;  although  I  remarked 
that  he  was  more  than  usually  attentive  to  my  wants,  —  al- 


334  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

most  officiously  so.  As  the  thief  sees  an  officer  in  every  bush, 
so  I  trembled  at  every  sound:  the  slightest  noise,  to  my  per- 
turbed imagination,  seemed  the  precursor  of  my  arrest ;  and  I 
hailed  with  pleasure  the  close  of  a  day  which  seemed  to  me  the 
longest  I  had  ever  known.  The  evening  passed  away  less  heav- 
ily. Yancey  successfully  exerted  himself  to  dissipate  my  melan- 
choly. About  ten  o'clock  I  escaped  from  the  kind  assiduities 
of  my  grateful  friend  by  pleading  an  inclination  for  repose. 
When  alone,  I  began  seriously  to  consider  my  situation.  Tho 
note  of  the  stranger  proffered  me  the  means  of  enfranchise- 
ment: if  these  means  proved  such  as  I  could  in  honor  avail 
myself  of,  my  duty  to  the  cause  I  had  embraced  imperatively 
demanded  my  acceptance  of  them.  I  decided,  therefore,  to 
keep  the  appointment,  and  to  let  the  result  of  my  interview 
with  the  secret  emissary  govern  my  subsequent  course.  While 
I  meditated  on  the  uncertainties  that  lay  before  me,  two  hours 
almost  imperceptibly  slipped  away :  the  hands  of  my  watch, 
placed  before  me  on  the  table,  now  indicated  the  last  quarter. 

I  sprang  up,  wrapped  my  cloak  around  me,  and,  having 
extinguished  the  light,  silently  descended  to  the  street.  A 
few  minutes'  walk  brought  me  to  the  designated  spot;  and 
the  dark  and  indistinct  outline  of  a  human  form  beneath  tlio 
overhanging  gable  told  me  that  my  mysterious  correspondent 
was  punctual.  After  a  brief  greeting,  he  told  me  in  a  low  voice 
to  follow  him,  as  the  place  was  ill  adapted  to  the  nature  of  our 
conference ;  and  that  he  would  conduct  me  to  another,  whore 
we  should  be  at  least  safe  from  casual  interruption.  I  assented. 
My  conductor  led  me  by  a  circuitous  route,  studiously  avoiding 
the  principal  streets,  through  several  narrow  and  filthy  outlets, 
to  the  western  extremity  of  the  town.  Here  we  stopped  amid 
the  ruins  of  some  cabins  that  had  been  once  used  for  barracks, 
and  afterwards  deserted. 

"We  are  now,"  said  my  guide,  "near  the  spot  I  spoke  of; 
but,  as  you  are  not  one  of  the  initiated,  it  is  requisite  that 


THE  AfAJOR'S  STORY.  335 

for  a  short  time  you  should  submit  to  have  your  eyes  band- 
aged." 

I  did  not  offer  any  objection  to  this  proposal.  My  pride 
would  not  allow  me  to  recede,  since  I  had  gone  so  far  in  the 
adventure ;  and,  having  been  blindfolded,  my  conductor  caught 
me  by  the  hand,  and  guided  my  steps.  It  was  difficult  to  walk 
in  this  manner;  and  I  found  the  path  in  which  I  was  led  both 
rugged  and  intricate.  The  distance,  however,  was  short, 
apparently;  and  in  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  the  stranger 
again  halted,  and  struck  three  distinct  blows  upon  a  resonant 
surface  with  a  stone,  or  perhaps  the  hilt  of  some  weapon  of 
offence.  A  hollow,  almost  sepulchral  voice  inquired,  — 

"  Who  comes  there  ?  " 

My  guide  replied,  — 

"  Uncle  Sam ! " 

"  Long  live  the  Republic ! "  was  the  rejoinder. 

We  now  descended  half  a  dozen  steps ;  when  I  discovered, 
by  feeling  with  my  hands,  that  we  had  entered  a  subterraneous 
passage,  the  sides  of  which  were  damp.  It  was  not  of  great 
extent,  as  a  few  moments  brought  us  into  a  freer  air.  Here  I 
learned  from  my  conductor  that  our  journey  had  terminated. 

He  removed  the  bandage  at  the  same  time ;  and  I  saw  that 
we  were  in  a  tolerably  spacious  vault,  or  cellar,  partially  illu- 
minated by  a  lamp  hung  from  the  roof  by  an  iron  chain.  Im- 
mediately under  it  was  a  rude  table,  round  which,  on  coarse 
wooden  benches,  were  seated  six  persons,  enveloped  in  coarse, 
loose  garments  of  dark  homespun,  which  effectually  concealed 
their  figures;  while  all  had  their  faces  hidden  by  black  masks, 
the  barbes  of  which  fell  almost  to  their  waists. 

One,  who  seemed  to  act  as  secretary  to  this  secret  conclave, 
had  several  papers  before  him,  and  a  pen  in  his  hand,  which  I 
presumed  was  to  be  employed  in  taking  notes  of  the  examina- 
tion to  which  I  was  evidently  about  to  be  subjected. 

My  guide  pointed  to  a  stool,  intimating  that  I  might  be 


336  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

seated;  and,  having  whispered  a  few  words  to  the  chief  person 
who  appeared  to  preside,  took  his  place,  masked  like  the  others, 
at  the  tahle.  The  chief  then  began  his  interrogatory  by  de- 
manding of  me  my  name,  place  of  nativity,  and  my  residence 
and  rank.  I  instantly  replied  to  the  first  and  second  ques- 
tion ;  and  was  about  to  answer  the  third,  when  my  interlocutor 
said,  — 

"  Spare  yourself,  sir,  the  pain  of  equivocating  :  we  know  that 
you  are  adjutant  of  the  Sixth  Illinois  Cavalry,  United-States 
Volunteers,  and  also  the  motives  which  induced  you  to  assume  the 
character  of  a  surgeon  :  the  stratagem  was  allowable,  although 
its  adoption  unfortunately  defeated  a  plan  that  would  have 
essentially  benefited  the  cause  you  have  sworn  to  support.  It 
is,  however,  in  your  power  to  retrieve  the  opportunity  you  were 
the  innocent  instrument  of  destroying." 

"  Put  me  to  the  test ! "  said  I  eagerly.  "  If  the  action  be  an 
honorable  one,  the  dread  of  death  shall  not  deter  me  from 
essaying  it." 

"  Reserve  this  display  of  enthusiasm  till  the  occasion  comes 
to  prove  its  reality,"  resumed  the  speaker  of  the  conclave.  "  At 
present,  you  are  enjoined  to  listen  in  silence  to  any  communi- 
cation we  may  think  necessary  to  intrust  you  with  ;  and,  lest 
you  should  question  our  authority,  learu  that  we  derive  it  from 
the  purest  sources,  —  the  voice  of  the  persecuted  Unionists  of 
the  State  of  Mississippi,  which  has  nominated  us  to  the  legis- 
lative body  secretly  established  in  the  mountains  that  surround 
us.  An  important  blow  at  the  Confederacy  was  meditated 
that  would  have  paralyzed  the  secessionists,  and  redeemed  the 
State  from  thraldom.  Fortune  seemed  to  favor  its  execution. 
The  daring  patriot  to  whom  its  execution  was  intrusted  al- 
ready saw  within  his  grasp  the  glorious  reward  which  his  zeal 
would  have  merited  from  a  grateful  nation.  At  this  moment 
you  appeared,  like  a  baleful  planet,  to  wither  his  hopes,  and  blast 
his  design.  Mercier  had  "  —  at  this  name  I  started  with  agi- 


THE  MAJOR'S  STORY.  337 

tation  —  "  sworn  to  immolate  our  tyrant  at  the  shrine  of  his 
country's  freedom,  and  was  about  to  redeem  his  oath,  when 
you"  — 

"  Great  God,  I  thank  thee,"  I  fervently  ejaculated,  starting 
from  my  seat,  glowing  with  indignation,  "that  thou  hast 
made  me  the  instrument  of  defeating  the  assassin's  purpose ! " 

"  Peace,  fool,  nor  interrupt  me  with  your  cant ! "  vociferated 
the  wily  casuist,  who  evidently  used  his  inflated  language  to 
conceal  even  to  himself  the  vileness  of  his  excuses  for  a  cold- 
blooded murder.  "Know  that  the  end  often  sanctifies  the 
means  :  that  which  you  term  assassination  is  but  retributive 
justice.  We  have  no  time,  however,  to  waste  in  words.  Mer- 
cier,  through  your  means,  has  become  an  object  of  suspicion : 
any  further  attempt  on  his  part  would  be  madness.  You  are 
bound  to  supply  his  place.  Daily  opportunities  present  them- 
selves. Hank,  riches,  and  freedom  are  the  result  of  your  com- 
pliance ;  death,  inevitable  death,  the  consequence  of  your 
refusal.  Pause  ere  you  decide  !  " 

"  My  choice  is  already  made,"  I  calmly  answered.  "  I  would 
suffer  a  thousand  deaths  rather  than  owe  my  life  to  such  con- 
ditions. I  cannot  see  how  you  can  offer  such  a  base  alterna- 
tive to  an  honorable  soldier.  Do  you  pause,  sir,  and  these 
gentlemen  too,  before  you  sully  our  glorious  cause  with  such 
treachery ! " 

"  Perish,  then,  in  your  obstinacy ! "  exclaimed  a  hitherto- 
silent  member  of  the  conclave,  at  the  same  time  drawing  a 
bowie-knife,  and  springing  to  the  spot  where  I  stood  unarmed. 

I  felt  that  the  crisis  of  my  fate  approached,  and  collected 
myself  for  a  final  effort.  Practised  in  all  athletic  exercises, 
I  quickly  enveloped  my  left  fore-arm  in  my  cloak,  and  received 
the  assassin's  thrust  unhurt;  while  a  straightforward  blow  from 
the  shoulder  with  my  right  arm  dashed  off  the  mask  of  my 
assailant,  and  levelled  him  to  the  earth.  His  features  were 
those  of  the  malignant  and  bloody-minded  Mercier.  To  seize 
29 


338  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

his  knife,  which  he  had  dropped,  and  place  myself  in  a  pos- 
ture of  defence,  was  the  work  of  an  instant.  Like  a  stag  at 
bay,  I  resolved  to  sell  my  life  dearly.  I  had,  however,  fearful 
odds  to  contend  with  ;  for  six  knives,  formidable  as  my  own, 
in  the  hands  of  as  many  infuriated  demons,  gleamed  before 
my  eyes. 

The  conspirators  would  not  use  fire-arms,  because  the  reports 
would  have  betrayed  them.  At  the  instant  before  the  threat- 
ened attack,  a  loud  crash  was  heard ;  and  the  assassins  stood 
transfixed  with  astonishment.  A  rush  of  footsteps  followed  ; 
and,  in  another  second,  the  vault  was  filled  with  confederate 
soldier*,  at  the  head  of  whom  I  recognized  Col.  Game  arid 
Lieut.  Yancey.  The  seven  conspirators  were  removed  to  the 
city  prison.  We  returned  to  the  quarters ;  and  I  then  learned 
from  the  confederate  officers  the  following  particulars  :  — 

Yancey  had  noticed  my  depression  of  spirits,  and,  fearing  it 
might  lead  me  to  the  commission  of  some  rash  act,  decided  upon 
watching  my  movements.  With  this  view  he  had  followed 
me  to  the  grove,  in  which,  concealed  behind  a  tree-trunk,  he 
had  witnessed  the  delivery  of  the  secret  note,  which,  being  sub- 
sequently found,  made  him  acquainted  with  the  hour  and  place 
of  interview.  At  this  he  likewise  contrived  to  be  present,  and, 
having  traced  the  stranger  through  all  the  labyrinths  of  his 
route,  arrived  shortly  after  him  at  the  ruined  barracks.  The 
intricacies  of  the  path,  which  impeded  my  progress  and  that 
of  my  guide,  favored  his  concealment ;  and,  screened  from  obser- 
vation by  the  logs  and  rubbish  that  lay  in  the  road,  he  managed 
to  reach  the  entrance  to  the  vault  just  in  time  to  catch  the  sig- 
nal and  countersign.  Possessed  of  these,  and  having  noted 
the  exact  spot,  he  returned  to  the  town  to  apprise  the  military 
authorities.  On  his  way  to  the  office  of  the  commandant 
of  the  place  he  met  Col.  Game,  who  had  just  arrived,  and  to 
whom  he  made  known  his  errand. 

Not  an  instant  was  lost  in  mustering  a  special  patrol  from 


THE  MAJORS  STORY.  339 

the  main  guard,  which,  as  has  been  seen,  having  forced  an 
entrance,  arrived  just  in  time  to  save  me  from  destruction. 

The  sequel  is  soon  told.  At  an  early  hour  the  next  morn- 
ing a  military  commission  assembled  in  Corinth  by  command 

of  Gen.  B ,  before  which  the  seven  prisoners  were  arraigned. 

On  the  evidence  of  the  papers  seized  in  the  vault  they  were 
found  guilty  of  treason  to  the  Confederate  States,  and  of  being 
spies  within  their  lines,  and  unanimously  sentenced  to  death. 

I  was  also  tried  as  a  participant,  but  only  for  form's  sake, 
and  fully  acquitted ;  the  evidence  showing  that  I  had  mani- 
fested the  strongest  abhorrence  of  the  proposal  made  to  me. 

Corinth  being  then  in  a  state  of  siege,  the  stern  require- 
ments of  military  law  called  for  the  instant  execution  of  the 
sentence,  which  was  carried  into  effect  within  two  hours  after 
its  promulgation.  I  was  released  without  exchange  in  conse- 
quence of  the  services  I  had  performed,  and  received  the 
thanks  of  the  general.  Col.  Game  and  Lieut.  Yancey  went 
with  me  to  the  federal  outposts ;  at  which  I  was  delivered  up 
under  a  flag,  and  rejoined  my  regiment. 

After  the  capitulation  of  Corinth  to  our  army,  and  a  conse- 
quent temporary  lull  in  the  military  operations  in  that  quar- 
ter, I  obtained  a  short  leave  of  absence,  and  visited  my  home 
in  Missouri. 

Here  the  worthy  major  hid  his  face  in  his  hands,  and  seemed 
terribly  affected  by  some  inward  emotion.  After  a  little  while 
passed  in  perfect  silence  by  the  whole  circle  of  officers  in 
respect  to  his  evident  grief,  he  resumed :  — 

I  will  refrain  from  distressing  you,  gentlemen,  with  the 
details  of  the  irreparable  and  heart-rending  misfortunes  that 
had  fallen  upon  me.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  I  found  my  home 
a  desert,  my  house  destroyed  by  fire,  my  flocks  and  herds  dis- 
persed no  one  knew  whither,  and  my  wife  laid  by  stranger 


340  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

hands  in  a  distant  churchyard.  Soon  after,  my  children  died 
one  by  one;  and  I  am  left  alone  again  in  the  world.  All 
this  unutterable  distress  I  owed  to  those  incarnate  fiends,  the 
Jayhawkers. 

The  major  rose  from  his  seat,  and  strode  out  into  the  dark- 
ness. We  soon  lost  sight  of  his  tall  form,  but  could  trace  his 
path  by  the  clattering  of  his  long  sabre  as  he  made  his  way 
towards  a  retired  spot,  doubtless  to  indulge  his  favorite  habit 
of  melancholy  revery. 

We  all  now  stretched  ourselves  on  our  straw  to  enjoy  a  little 
sleep,  without  taking  off  our  clothes,  arms,  or  accoutrements ; 
our  horses,  in  charge  of  the  orderlies,  picketed  near,  ready  sad- 
dled, as  is  the  custom  on  picket-duty.  But  our  slumbers  were 
of  short  duration.  I  was  first  aroused  by  the  dropping  fire  of 
the  cavalry  outposts  and  vedettes  far  away  in  the  front  of  our 
infantry  pickets :  this  was  succeeded  by  the  crack  of  the  latter'a 
pieces ;  and  these  again,  after  a  brief  interval,  by  the  more 
regular  and  sustained  fire  of  the  reserves  of  the  grand  guard. 

I  then  knew  it  was  an  attack  in  force,  or  at  least  a  forcible 
reconnoissance ;  and  sent  information  to  the  camps  in  our  rear. 
The  whole  force  of  about  two  brigades  was  soon  engaged  with 
the  enemy ;  and  I  again  sent  for  re-enforcements,  which  soon 
arrived ;  and  the  enemy,  having  succeeded  in  ascertaining  the 
position  and  force  of  our  picket-guard,  withdrew  after  a  smart 
action  of  about  two  hours,  in  which  our  line  suffered  some 
losses. 

I  then  rode  to  the  front  to  re-establish  the  line,  and  to  recon- 
noitre, in  my  turn,  the  battle-field ;  passing  the  many  dead  and 
wounded,  who  were  already  being  removed  to  the  hospital  in  the 
ambulances,  or  taken  to  the  rear  by  their  comrades  for  burial 
in  a  nameless  grave. 

The  confederate  dead  lay  thick  in  a  ravine,  the  possession  of 
which  had  been  hotly  contested.  Emerging  from  this,  myself 


THE  MAJOR'S  STORY.  341 

and  staff  came  upon  a  little  elevated  plateau  that  had  been  the 
scene  of  a  charge  of  our  cavalry  upon  the  confederates. 

As  we  reached  a  group  of  bodies,  a  young  officer  uttered 
an  exclamation ;  and  I  saw  stretched  dead  upon  the  ground 
the  fine  athletic  figure  of  the  major  of  the  Sixth  Illinois 
Cavalry.  He  had  been  pierced  through  the  heart  by  a  rifle- 
ball  ;  and  his  features  wore  a  placid  expression  that  seemed 
to  indicate  satisfaction  with  the  manner  of  his  death.  Near 
him,  and  just  in  his  front,  lay  the  corpse  of  a  confederate 
officer,  his  head  cloven  by  a  sabre-stroke. 

The  artillery-officer  was  riding  by  my  side,  and  dismounted 
to  look  at  the  features  of  the  dead  confederate.  "Leonard 
Mason  ! "  said  he.  "  This  is  the  end  of  my  poor  school-fellow ! " 
And  he  could  hardly  conceal  his  emotion.  Death  atones  for 
all  errors ;  and  let  us  hope,  that,  in  this  case,  it  was  a  relief  to 
both  the  wrecked  gamester  and  the  unfortunate  man  who  had 
evidently  slain  him  by  a  strange  fatality. 

29* 


THE    GENERAL'S   STORY. 

LOBITO;  OB,  THE  AVENGER. 

A  LMOST  my  first  military  adventure  in  the  service  which 
~L\.  I  had  entered  —  the  Mexican  army  —  occurred  at  Quere- 
taro,  —  a  city  since  made  famous  by  the  execution  of  the  unfor- 
tunate Maximilian,  and  his  two  unlucky  generals,  Mirainon 
and  Mejia. 

Miguel  —  or,  as  he  was  then  universally  called,  Miguelito  — 
Miramon  was,  indeed,  one  of  my  pupils  in  the  military  school 
at  Chapultepec,  and  noted,  even  at  that  early  age,  as  a  youth 
of  uncommon  spirit  and  genius. 

A  day  after  my  arrival  on  a  mission  from  my  chief,  the  presi- 
dent of  the  republic,  to  whom  I  was  then  acting  as  aide-de- 
camp, I  remarked  to  a  friend  that  I  had  never  heard  the 
human  voice  so  perfectly  imitated  as  by  a  fine  parrot  who 
passed  his  time  on  a  roost,  or  perch,  outside  a  house  opposite 
my  lodgings,  on  the  great  square,  or  plaza. 

My  friend  agreed  with  me  in  my  opinion,  and,  informing  me 
that  there  was  a  history  connected  with  the  bird,  invited  me  to 
accompany  him  on  a  visit  to  his  owner,  who,  although  the  pos- 
sessor of  a  magnificent  huacamaya  and  several  other  fine 
specimens  of  the  family  of  the  psittacidce,  seemed  to  value  his 
little  ordinary  lorito  more  than  all  of  them. 

About  four  years  since,  said  Don  Manuel,  —  in  answer  to 
my  request  for  his  story,  —  my  brother  left  us  for  the  northern 

842 


THE  GENERAL'S  STORY.  343 

frontier  to  fight  the  savages  ;  and  the  poor  lad  left  to  me  Lorito 
as  his  last  bequest.  "  Should  I  return,"  said  he,  "you  will  give 
him  back  to  me  :  if  not,  keep  him  for  a  remembrancer;  and, 
should  he  die,  have  him  stuffed,  and  still  preserve  him  in 
memory  of  me."  I  promised,  and  have  kept  my  word.  Lorito 
is  still  in  my  house  ;  and,  notwithstanding  his  age,  which  I  do 
not  know  exactly,  he  appears  to  be  likely  to  survive  not  only 
his  first,  but  also  his  second  master.  I  was  at  that  time 
engaged  in  commerce  ;  and,  shortly  after,  receiving  intelligence 
of  the  death  of  my  poor  brother,  who  was  killed  by  the  Indians, 
was  compelled  to  depart  for  Havana  on  business  of  some  im- 
portance. I  resided  then  in  this  house,  at  that  time  the  prop- 
erty of  my  aunt,  who  had  living  with  her  as  companion  a  young 
girl,  an  orphan  without  kin,  whom  she  had  reared  from  a  child, 
and  to  whose  care  I  left  Lorito,  with  many  charges  to  take  pains 
with  his  health  and  education. 

I  had  not  then  ceased  to  look  upon  Engracia  —  which  was 
the  orphan's  name  —  as  other  than  a  child,  although  perfectly 
aware  of  the  sweetness  of  her  disposition,  and  of  the  promise 
of  great  beauty  she  bore  in  form  and  feature.  On  my  return, 
which  was  within  a  year,  I  was  astonished  by  the  loveliness  of 
Engracia,  which,  as  is  common  in  our  climate,  had  rapidly  de- 
veloped during  my  absence.  I  was  also  most  agreeably  sur- 
prised at  hearing  my  parrot  call  my  name,  saying  in  a  clear 
and  audible  voice,  "  Viva  Manuel ! "  —  a  salutation  taught  him 
by  the  amiable  orphan. 

I  was  obliged  to  leave  again  very  soon  for  Havana,  and  this 
time  regretted  more  than  before  the  necessity  that  compelled 
my  departure  ;  for,  during  my  short  sojourn,  I  fully  appreciated 
all  the  good  qualities  of  the  beautiful  girl.  During  the  voyage 
from  Vera  Cruz,  I  found  myself  often  asking  whether  Engracia 
was  not  the  companion  destined  for  me  by  Heaven,  in  case  I 
was  favored  by  fortune,  and  was  able  to  return  again  to  reside 
in  my  native  city.  I  brooded  long  over  the  fact,  that,  when  the 


344  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

time  came  for  my  adieus,  ray  old  aunt  pressed  me  in  a  long 
embrace ;  while  Engraeia  presented  her  cheek,  which  was  rosy- 
red,  then  grew  instantly  pale;  and  that  she  supported  herself 
by  the  wall,  as  if  unable  to  stand, — a  parting  quite  different 
to  our  first,  at  which  she  showed  no  emotion. 

Of  course  I  wrote  regularly  to  my  aunt,  and  never  omitted 
to  add  some  message  for  Engraeia,  who  I  knew  read  the  letters 
to  the  old  lady.  At  last,  I  wrote  directly  to  my  sweetheart,  as 
I  now  considered  her,  begging  her  to  keep  my  secret  even  from 
her  benefactress,  and  telling  her  the  day  would  soon  come 
when  we  would  mutually  confide  to  the  old  lady  our  plans  and 
hopes  for  the  future.  She  loved  me,  for  she  gave  her  assent 
to  my  desire ;  and,  if  this  was  a  fault,  the  poor  child  cruelly 
expiated  it.  After  our  correspondence  had  continued  for  some 
time,  I  thought  it  my  duty  to  conceal  the  affection  I  felt  for 
Engraeia  from  my  aunt  no  longer;  and  wrote  to  her  that  I 
cherished  the  design  of  making  her  my  wife.  This  letter  was 
unanswered.  The  poor  old  lady  was  already  grievously  ill 
when  it  arrived,  and,  indeed,  died  a  few  days  after. 

On  her  death-bed  she  embraced  Engracia,  and  made  known  to 
her  the  contents  of  the  letter.  At  any  other  time  joy  would  have 
pervaded  her  heart;  but  now  she  bowed  her  head,  and  was  silent. 
The  dying  woman  then  asked  her  if  she  knew  of  my  love  for 
her;  and  she  acknowledged  that  she  had  known  of  it  for  some 
time.  In  answer  to  the  questions  of  the  old  lady,  she  owned 
that  she  returned  my  love,  and  divulged  the  secret  of  our  clan- 
destine correspondence.  My  aunt  listened  benevolently,  and 
charged  the  orphan  to  marry  mo,  and  to  make  me  happy. 
Then,  telling  her  that  the  thought  of  our  union  made  her  die 
content,  she  bade  her  adieu  in  the  most  affectionate  manner, 
and  asked  for  a  notary  to  be  sent  to  her  bedside.  Having  dic- 
tated new  testamentary  dispositions  as  to  her  property,  the 
notary  gave  place  to  the  priest ;  and  then  began  the  death- 
agony.  My  aunt  died  that  night.  Her  illness  had  been  a 
short  one. 


THE  GENERA US  STORY.  345 

Engracia  wrote  and  despatched  a  letter,  urging  me  to  return 
immediately ;  but  the  ocean  mails  were  tedious,  and  I  did  not 
receive  it  for  a  long  time. 

It  was  three  months  at  least,  after  the  decease  of  my  aunt, 
that  I  learned  the  sad  news  from  the  orphan's  letter;  and  even 
then  my  business  was  in  such  a  condition,  that  it  would  have 
been  ruinous  to  me  to  leave  Havana  without  arranging  it  satis- 
factorily to  myself  and  others. 

Five  mouths  elapsed  from  the  time  of  my  aunt's  death  before 
I  again  set  foot  in  Queretaro. 

Meantime  seals  had  been  placed  upon  the  movable  property 
of  the  defunct,  and  her  estate  was  unsettled ;  but  I  was  named 
her  universal  legatee,  except  a  small  life-annuity  to  Engracia, 
which  was  her  dower.  The  young  orphan  still  resided  in  the 
house  of  my  aunt,  in  which  she  passed  her  time  while  attend- 
ing to  her  religious  and  charitable  duties,  as  usual,  and  awaiting 
my  return  ;  her  sole  attendant  being  an  aged  female. 

Let  us  not  forget  Lorito.  Engracia  still  kept  the  poor  bird, 
who  maintained  his  position  in  the  perch  outside  the  window 
looking  on  the  plaza,  amusing  the  inmates  of  the  house  and 
the  passers-by  with  his  mockery  of  all  the  sounds  he  heard, 
and  his  persistent  bavardage,  rounding  off  his  sentences  usual- 
ly with  a  loud  "  Viva  Manuel !  " 

There  is  usually  a  large  garrison  kept  in  Queretaro,  and  the 
plaza  is  frequently  used  as  a  place  of  exercise.  Lorito  became 
acquainted  with  the  braying  of  cornets,  the  rolling  of  the 
drums,  and  could  distinctly  repeat  the  commands  given  by  the 
drill-officers  to  the  recruits  daily  exercised  on  the  square  beneath 
him.  His  "  Carry  arms  ! "  "  Present  arms !  "  &c.,  was  the  daily 
wonder  of  the  loungers  on  the  plaza.  Notwithstanding  that 
Engracia  lived  a  solitary  and  unobtrusive  life,  only  going  out 
to  church,  or  to  visit  the  tomb  of  my  aunt  to  pray,  gloomy 
days  were  in  store  for  her. 

There  was  in  the  garrison  a  young  officer,  a  notorious  liber- 


346  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

tine,  the  son  of  a  rich,  and  influential  family  of  Mexico,  who 
had  already  distinguished  himself  by  the  profligate  dissipation 
of  a  handsome  patrimony.  This  officer,  strolling  one  day  near 
the  cemetery,  met  the  beautiful  orphan,  where  she  had  gone  to 
pray,  and  was  struck  with  her  elegant  toumure,  her  graceful 
walk,  and  princess-like  bearing.  Although  he  could  not  dis- 
tinguish her  features,  partly  concealed  as  they  were  by  a  long 
and  voluminous  reboso,  he  followed  her,  and  even  accosted  her 
in  an  almost  deserted  street. 

Engracia  deigned  not  either  to  turn  her  head  or  to  hasten 
her  steps,  opposing  to  the  bold  advances  of  the  lieutenant  the 
most  disdainful  silence.  She  had  not  even  the  air  of  noticing 
his  presence ;  while  he  continued  to  dog  her  steps,  meanwhile 
pouring  into  her  ear  all  sorts  of  commonplaces. 

Engracia  continued  her  walk  homewards  calmly,  secure  in 
the  safety  of  the  streets  at  noonday,  and  entered  her  house  as 
if  nothing  had  happened  to  annoy  her :  so  that  his  barrack 
phrases  of  admiration  fell  upon  deaf  ears. 

His  trouble  was  not,  however,  entirely  lost ;  for  at  least  he 
had  learned  the  residence  of  the  beautiful  incognita.  In  a 
place  like  Queretaro,  it  is  not  difficult  to  obtain  all  the  other 
needful  information  about  a  lovely  woman  who  has  struck  one's 
fancy ;  and  the  result  of  his  researches  in  this  direction  was 
quite  satisfactory  to  this  vulgar  Lovelace.  He  resolved,  cost 
what  it  might,  to  bring  to  reason  the  haughty  orphan,  and  to 
punish  her  disdain. 

He  made  his  plan  at  once,  pushed  a  reconnoissance  into  the 
enemy's  place  itself,  took  account  of  the  feeble  resistance  she 
could  oppose  to  him,  and  resolved  to  risk  the  assault. 

No  one  ever  could  explain  the  means  he  took  to  enter  the 
house  without  observation  ;  but  he  did  so  one  evening,  passed 
into  the  patio,  —  court-yard,  —  and,  climbing  a  tree,  got  access 
to  an  empty  apartment  in  the  second  story. 

This  room  was  separated  from  that  of  Engracia  only  by  a 


THE  GENERAL'S  STORY.  347 

door  in  a  partition.  Old  Antonia,  who  was  deaf  as  a  post,  slept 
quietly  on  the  ground-floor ;  and  the  invader  knew  she  could 
scarcely  hear  thunder. 

On  this  evening  Engracia  was  not  asleep :  she  was  reading 
my  letters,  she  says,  for  the  hundredth  time.  Hearing  a  slight 
noise,  she  tremulously  cried  out,  "Is  it  you,  Antonia?"  think- 
ing it  might  be  her  nurse.  No  answer  was  returned. 

Although  gentle,  timid  even,  Engracia  did  not  lack  courage. 
She  took  up  her  candle,  saying  to  herself  it  was  only  her 
duena,  bravely  opened  the  door  separating  the  two  rooms,  and 
almost  dropped  the  light  on  seeing  the  young  officer. 

"  Who  are  you,  sir  ?  "  she  cried  in  as  commanding  a  tone 
as  she  could  assume ;  "  and  why  are  you  here  ?  " 

The  lieutenant  took  the  candlestick  out  of  her  hand,  and 
placed  it  on  a  table ;  then,  smiling  on  the  young  girl,  said,  — 

"  You  deigned  not  to  listen  to  my  protestations  of  love  in 
the  street ;  and  I  admit  you  had  reason  ;  for,  undoubtedly,  you 
wished  me  to  understand  that  the  place  was  very  badly  chosen. 
So  I  have  found  it  necessary  to  come  here  without  leave ;  for 
it  would  not  have  been  granted,  probably,  had  I  asked  it, 
ignorant  as  you  must  be  of  the  ardent  and  sincere  love  I  bear 
for  you,  and  which  I  now  avow,  as  well  as  that  I  have  been 
forced  to  take  this  step." 

"  Sir,  you  most  unworthily  and  cowardly  abuse  my  condi- 
tion, knowing  that  I  am  alone  and  unprotected ;  but  I  can  yet 
make  myself  respected,  even  by  you !  As  to  what  you  call  your 
love,  know,  sir,  that  I  am  the  affianced  of  a  man  of  honor, 
who,  should  he  learn  of  your  insult  to  me,  would  compel  you 
to  account  to  him  for  this  odious  proceeding ! " 

"  Ha,  ha ! "  laughed  the  officer.  "  And  who  is  this  happy 
mortal  who  pretends  to  dispute  so  adorable  a  beauty  with 
me?" 

"  Viva  Manuel ! "  cried  the  parrot,  awakened  by  the  sudden 
flash  of  light,  dancing  on  his  perch  at  sight  of  a  stranger. 


348  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES.    - 

"Ah  !  he  calls  Manuel.  Now,  I  will  lay  any  odds  that  he 
has  been  taught  that  name  by  yourself,"  said  the  intruder. 

"  Go  away,  sir,  or  I  will  cry  out ! "  returned  the  young  girl 
with  energy  supplied  by  terror. 

"  Oh,  no,  indeed,  my  beauty !  What !  leave  without  having 
manifested  all  the  passion  I  feel  for  you  ?  You  cannot  mean 
it?" 

"  You  wish,  then,  to  bring  scandal  on  my  good  name,"  said 
the  girl  in  an  appealing  tone.  "  Sir,  you  will  compromise 
me  without  accomplishing  your  unworthy  intentions  !  Go, 
sir,  I  pray  you,  in  the  name  of  your  mother,  in  the  name  of 
your  sister,  if  you  have  one  !  " 

The  officer,  still  smiling,  made  an  attempt  to  pass  his  arm 
around  her  waist,  and  to  draw  her  to  him.  Engracia  recoiled ; 
but  the  officer  advanced,  and  succeeded  in  seizing  the  affrighted 
and  unnerved  young  girl.  She  cried  aloud  at  this  outrage, 
which  was  the  signal  for  the  parrot  to  make  outcry  loud 
enough  to  wake  the  dead  ;  but  old  Antonia  slept  on. 

Engracia  redoubled  her  screams,  and  the  parrot  his  un- 
earthly clamor. 

"Devilish  bird!"  muttered  the  lieutenant  angrily:  "he  will 
certainly  cause  the  old  woman  to  come  up  here ! "  And,  curs- 
ing the  poor  bird,  he  dealt  it  a  violent  blow  with  his  fist. 

Engracia  sought  refuge  in  a  corner,  clasping  her  hands : 
her  choking  throat  could  no  longer  give  voice  to  a  call  for  help. 
The  young  man  walked  towards  her,  took  her  hands  in  his, 
and  even  dared  to  attempt  to  kiss  her  paje  lips.  Suddenly  he 
imagined  he  heard  a  noise ;  and,  before  he  could  decide  whether 
it  was  reality  or  an  illusion,  the  parrot  redoubled  his  cries 
vehemently.  "  To  hell  with  thee,  infernal  bird  ! "  said  he,  tear- 
ing him  from  his  perch,  and  launching  him  forcibly  from  the 
window  by  which  he  had  obtained  entrance  into  the  apart- 
ment. 

The  px>o,r  creature,  bulled  rudely  by  a  vigorous  hand,  obeyed 


THE  GENERAL'S  STORY.  349 

the  impulse  like  an  inert  object,  and,  without  the  power  of 
opening  his  wings,  fell  into  the  garden  near  the  wall  of  the 
house.  Chance,  or  Providence,  guided  its  fall  close  to  the  win- 
dow near  old  Antonia's  bed,  who  was,  however,  more  awakened 
by  the  vibration  of  the  room  overhead  than  by  either  the  cries 
of  Engracia  or  those  of  the  parrot,  although  the  tatter's  were 
redoubled  in  a  more  piercing  tone  than  before,  being  this  time 
cries  of  pain.  "  What's  the  matter,  senorita  ?  "  asked  the  old 
woman,  opening  her  shutters.  "  Help,  help  ! "  cried  Engracia 
as  loud  as  her  strength  permitted. 

The  audacious  libertine  now  understood  that  the  game  was 
up  for  him  this  time.  "I  leave  you  now,  senorita,"  said  he 
with  suppressed  rage :  "  but  I  will  find  you  again ;  and,  if 
you  resist  or  complain,  I  swear  I  will  kill  you  !  It  is  for 
your  interest  to  keep  silence  as  to  what  has  passed  here,  if 
for  no  other  reason,  to  assure  the  safety  of  your  handsome 
Manuel." 

Saying  these  words  he  ran  to  the  window,  passed  out,  and, 
seizing  the  branch  of  the  tree  by  which  he  had  ascended,  let 
himself  to  the  ground.  In  another  instant  he  had  disappeared 
from  the  enclosure. 

Antonia,  having  at  last  climbed  to  the  room  of  her  mistress 
by  the  stairs,  found  poor  Engracia  in  a  dead  faint  on  the 
floor,  having  succumbed  to  the  loss  of  strength  and  nervous 
prostration.  The  next  day  she  had  a  burning  fever,  was  de- 
lirious, and  lay  for  some  days  in  imminent  danger.  Old  Anto- 
nia summoned  the  doctor,  and  cared  for  and  nursed  the  poor 
girl  as  if  she  had  been  her  own  daughter.  Meanwhile  no  one 
cared  for  poor  Lorito,  who  had  his  wing  broken  by  his  sudden 
and  violent  expulsion  from  the  apartment  of  his  mistress. 
How  was  he  cured  ?  That  is  an  ornithological  secret :  but 
cured  he  was ;  and,  about  a  week  after,  Engracia  faintly  smiled 
at  hearing  the  old  cry,  "  Viva  Manuel ! " 

I  must  now  tell  you  why  the  lieutenant  did  not  execute  his 
so 


350  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

terrible  menace.  "  I  will  find  you  again,"  said  he,  with  flashing 
eyes,  to  Engracia ;  but  he  had  never  again  sought  her. 

After  leaving  the  house,  he  went  to  a  supper  at  which  he 
knew  he  should  find  his  comrades.  The  guests  were  all  sober 
enough  when  he  arrived;  but  he,  irritated  by  his  failure,  and 
mad  with  spite,  began  to  drink  inordinately.  He  was  a  little 
dashed  at  first ;  but,  as  the  wine  raised  his  spirits,  he  became 
communicative,  then  loquacious,  and  finished  by  recounting 
all  the  details  of  his  rash  attempt,  concluding  by  reiterating 
in  a  drunken  voice  his  threat  to  Engracia,  —  "I  will  find  her 
again ; "  adding  in  a  maudlin  tone,  "  And,  the  next  time,  I  will 
not  fail." 

"  You  will  do  no  such  thing,  sir,"  said  an  officer  calmly. 

"  You  are  jesting,  I  think,"  said  the  first. 

"  You  shall  not  commit  an  infamous  deed  which  will  recoil 
on  the  whole  of  us.  You  shall  not  dishonor  your  uniform  by 
ruining  this  poor  child.  Anyhow,  it  is  a  cowardly  act ;  and  I 
forbid  it !  "  said  the  officer. 

These  noble  words  were  warmly  applauded  by  all  present 
with  voice  and  gesture. 

But  the  lieutenant,  stung  to  the  quick,  and  more  than  half 
drunk,  retorted,  — 

"  Is  it  a  captain,  or  a  capucin,  that  presumes  to  address  me 
in  this  manner?  Are  we  listening  to  a  sermon?  or  are  we  at 
a  feast  ?  " 

The  captain  rose,  and  his  friends  followed  his  example. 
"  Let  him  get  over  his  potations,"  said  he,  unmoved.  "  He  is 
now  drunk.  To-morrow  he  will  be  reasonable ;  and  he  will 
regret  his  words,  and,  yet  more,  his  mad,  silly  threats." 

"I  shall  do  nothing  of  the  sort!  "  roared  the  lieutenant,  his 
eyes  fairly  bloodshot  with  rage.  Moreover,  I  will  soon  show 
you  whether  I  am  drunk  or  not ! " 

So  saying,  he  drew  his  sword,  and  rushed  upon  the  captain. 
The  latter  easily  parried  the  thrust  with  his  arm,  and,  by  a 


THE  GENERAL'S  STORY.  351 

rapid  turn  of  the  wrist,  seized  the  blade  the  miscreant  would 
have  buried  in  his  body,  and  disarmed  him.  The  others  then 
threw  themselves  upon  the  lieutenant ;  and  he  was  dragged 
away,  hurling  curses  upon  them  all. 

The  affair  became  known,  and  the  commanding-officer  of 
the  garrison  placed  the  lieutenant  before  a  court-martial.  In 
some  cases,  doubtless,  the  offence  might  have  been  treated 
with  some  leniency ;  but  this  man  had  the  most  deplorable 
antecedents,  which  prevented  the  court  from  softening  the 
rigor  of  their  sentence. 

Several  times  he  had  been  punished  for  grave  infractions 
of  discipline,  and  had  only  succeeded  in  obtaining  his  epau- 
let by  an  act  of  distinguished  bravery.  Moreover,  the  au- 
thorities deemed  it  necessary  to  respect  the  opinion  of  the 
civilians,  who  regarded  the  sanctity  of  their  dwellings  as 
something  not  to  be  lightly  violated  by  those  who  should  have 
been  foremost  in  protecting  it.  In  this  case  the  sentence  of 
the  court-martial  was  death  ;  the  prisoner's  insubordination 
having  been  great,  and  his  offence  aggravated  by  repetition. 

A  relative  high  in  office  at  the  capital  interceded  for  mercy, 
and  brought  powerful  influence  to  bear  in  his  behalf.  The 
president  refused,  at  first,  either  to  pardon  him  or  to  commute 
the  sentence;  but  finally  decided  to  spare  his  life,  but  to 
bound  his  clemency.  He  ordered  the  colonel  commanding 
the  place  of  Queretaro  to  come  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  and  com- 
municated his  will  to  him,  directing  him  at  the  same  time  to 
preserve  it  a  profound  secret. 

The  condemned  was  to  suffer  military  degradation,  and  also 
all  the  apprehension  of  execution :  only,  at  the  moment  of 
giving  the  last  command,  the  officer  of  the  firing-party  should 
not  pronounce  the  word  "  Fire  ! " 

The  guilty  person  was  then  to  be  sent  to  the  Castle  of 
Perote  to  be  immured  in  a  cell,  or  to  join  a  company  of  disci- 
pline composed  of  malefactors  to  labor  on  the  public  works, 


352  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

or  be  sent  to  fight  the  Indians  in  the  North,  as  should  be 
hereafter  decided. 

Meanwhile  my  poor  Engracia  convalesced  slowly ;  but,  as 
her  health  was  re-established,  consciousness  of  the  past 
returned,  and  she  was  the  victim  of  a  deep  melancholy. 
"  He  will  find  me,"  she  said ;  "  and,  when  he  does,  he  will 
execute  his  terrible  threat.  But,  even  if  he  does  not,  how 
can  I  conceal  from  my  affianced  husband  all  the  outrage  and 
violence  to  which  I  have  been  subjected  ?  It  would  be  dis- 
loyal in  me  to  do  so;  for  I  should  have  no  secrets  from  him 
who  has  the  right  to  all  my  love,  as  I  wish,  in  turn,  to  feel 
myself  entitled  to  all  his  esteem.  And  how  can  I  meet 
without  blushing  and  trembling  the  man  who  has  dared  to 
sully  my  lips  with  his  kisses? 

"  Oh !  should  I  find  myself  some  time  with  him  in  a  saloon, 
for  instance  !  Horrible  ! " 

Lorito,  perched  on  his  stick  at  the  window,  seemed  to 
understand  this  monologue ;  for  he  uttered  loudly  his  comment 
upon  it,  —  "  Viva  Manuel !  " 

Meanwhile  I  was  sailing  over  the  waters  of  the  Gulf,  long- 
ing to  reach  my  native  land,  and  thinking  the  swift  steamer 
that  bore  me  onwards  more  slow  than  a  clumsy  Dutch  galliot. 

The  day  of  the  military  execution,  in  conformity  with  the 
sentence  of  the  court-martial  and  its  supposed  approval  by 
the  president,  arrived  at  last ;  and  the  garrison  assembled  on 
the  plaza  of  the  city,  upon  which,  as  you  may  see,  the  front 
windows  of  our  house  look  down.  The  hollow  square  was 
formed,  and  the  condemned  was  escorted  into  its  centre. 
First  the  sentence  and  its  approval  was  read  in  a  loud  voice 
by  the  staff-adjutant ;  then  came  the  military  degradation,  — a 
punishment  yet  more  terrible  to  a  soldier  than  the  swift  death 
which  was  to  follow.  At  last,  the  priest,  who  had  not  left  the 
side  of  the  condemned,  embraced  and  quitted  him,  and  the 
firing-platoon  took  their  station  under  a  lieutenant. 


THE   GENERALS  STORY.  353 

The  doomed  man  bore  himself  bravely,  and  with  the  cour- 
age of  our  race.  He  begged  to  be  allowed  to  die  with  his  eyes 
unbandaged,  and  earnestly  desired  to  give  the  command  to 
fire.  The  colonel  commanding  granted  the  first  request,  but 
refused  the  last  for  good  reason. 

The  silence  of  the  plaza  was  oppressive,  broken  at  last  by 
the  harsh,  quick  command,  "Keady  !"  "Aim!"  "Fire!"  fol- 
lowed in  quick  succession.  The  twelve  muskets  made  but  one 
report,  and  the  unhappy  culprit  fell  face  forward  on  the  stones 
of  the  plaza  :  several  bullets  had  entered  his  heart,  and  death 
was  instantaneous. 

As  the  last  command  rang  out,  the  colonel  put  spurs  to  his 
horse,  uttering  a  sharp  cry ;  and  the  gallant  beast  made  but 
one  leap  towards  the  officer  commanding  the  firing-party. 
The  rider  was  pale  as  the  corpse  before  him ;  and  so  was  the 
officer,  who  stared  into  his  colonel's  face  blankly,  unmindful 
of  the  uplifted  sabre  he  bore. 

"  Desgraciado !  "  ("  Unfortunate  man  ! '')  "  why  did  you 
command  '  Fire ! '  contrary  to  my  express  orders  ?  " 

"  I,  colonel  ?  I  did  not  command  '  Fire ! '  "  answered  the 
officer,  completely  nonplussed. 

The  deathlike  silence  again  prevailed,  soon  suddenly  inter- 
rupted by  a  clear,  trumpet-voice  crying,  "  Recover  arms ! " 
"  Present  arms ! " 

It  was  Lorito,  who  commanded  the  military  exercise,  as 
was  his  wont,  from  his  perch  at  the  window. 

He  it  was  who  had  cried  "  Fire  ! "  He  had  avenged  Engra- 
cia. 

In  a  few  days  I  learned  of  this  scene  from  the  lips  of  my 
affianced  in  this  house.  Sighing,  I  pressed  her  to  my  heart, 
assuring  her  that  to  me  she  should  always  be  the  angel  of 
purity  I  had  so  often  dreamed  of,  and  bidding  her  never  again 
to  blush  before  any  one. 

The  poor  wretch  who  would  have  dishonored  us  has  expi- 

80* 


354  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

ated  his  crime.  May  God  forgive  him  !  Our  marriage  was 
celebrated  soon  after  my  arrival ;  and  I  have  this  boy,  who  was 
named  for  his  father,  "  in  order,"  says  Engracia,  "  that,  when 
Lorito  salutes  us  with  his  favorite  cry,  I  may  not  know 
which  one  he  means." 

Seated  in  the  xaduan  (hall)  of  my  new  acquaintance,  I  lis- 
tened to  this  short  and  simple  tale;  at  the  conclusion  of  which 
the  parrot  took  up  the  word,  as  the  Spaniard  says,  and  repeat- 
ing a  long  rigmarole  of  military  commands,  drum-beats  and 
rataplans,  bugle-blasts,  and  a  verse  of  a  song,  made  an  end 
with  "Viva  Manuel!" 


MONTE;    OR,  THE  ROBBERS. 

SCEJCE. —  The  "  Socicdad,"  —  a  private  club-house  on  the  Great  Square 
of  the  city  of  Mexico. 

Present.  —  Several  loungers ;  myself,  seated  at  a  window  looking  on  the 
square,  sipping  chocolate. 

Enter  Don  Eusebio  Lancry,  a  gay  young  Frenchman,  —  in  American  par- 
lance, a  "  sport,"  —  many  years  a  resident  of  Mexico,  whom  I  invite  to 
seat  himself  at  my  table. 

Don  Eusebio.  —  AH,  mi  colonel !  I  know  you  are  aboiit 
to  ask  me  where  I  have  been  for  the  last  few  weeks,  and  shall 
be  most  happy  to  relate  to  you  my  experiences  for  that  time, 
or  since  I  last  saw  you. 

Myself.  —  It  will  give  me  much  pleasure  to  listen,  knowing 
you  seldom  say  any  thing  not  instructive  or  amusing :  besides, 
I  have  heard  that  you  had  "fallen  among  thieves  "  lately. 

Don  Eusebio.  —  You  have  been  rightly  informed.  I  never 
again  expected  to  enjoy  this  pleasure,  I  assure  you.  I  will 
tell  you  all  about  it. 

Well,  some  weeks  since,  I  started  for  Vera  Cruz,  on  business, 
and,  returning,  was  captured  by  the  salteadores  of  the  camino 
real,  and  taken  into  the  mountains  near  Plan  del  Rio. 
There  I  was  stripped  and  searched:  my  repeater,  a  fine 
Breguet,  was  appropriated ;  and,  finding  only  about  ten  ounces 
in  money  in  my  pockets,  the  rascals,  enraged  at  my  foresight, 
tied  me  to  a  tree,  preparatory  to  putting  me  to  death,  because 
they  could  not  find  a  more  ample  booty. 

855 


356  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

Myself. — And  how  did  you  escape  from  these  gentlemen 
of  the  road  ? 

Don  Eusebio.  —  Just  as"  I  had  given  up  all  hope  of  ever 
revisiting  my  dear  native  land,  or  of  seeing  yourself  and  my 
other  friends  again  in  this  world,  and  was  endeavoring  to  recall 
some  of  the  prayers  of  my  childhood,  the  leader,  or  captain, 
of  the  band  rode  up ;  and  I  instantly  put  in  a  strong  appeal  to 
his  sympathies,  and,  above  all,  to  his  desire  for  revenge,  not 
that  of  blood,  but  of  money.  It  was  lucky,  indeed,  for  me  that 
the  captain  was  the  well-known  Rafael  Hernandez,  an  old 
acquaintance;  and  our  recognition  was  mutual.  We  had  last 
met  at  the  great  annual  fiesta,  of  San  Agustin,  which,  as  thou 
knowest,  is  the  occasion  for  meeting  every  one  of  our 
acquaintances,  and  the  true  Olympian  games  of  this  silly 
Mexico. 

It  so  happened  that  I  had  there  encountered  Don  Rafael, 
and  that  our  meeting  resulted  in  a  skirmish  at  monte,  in 
which  he  lost  a  hundred  golden  ounces,  which  he  paid  on  the' 
spot  like  a  true  caballero. 

He  was  quite  another  man,  clad  in  the  riding-dress  of  a 
ranchero,  and  surrounded  by  uncouth  and  rude  brigands. 
Then  he  had  been  at  San  Agustin,  where  he  was  attired  in  the 
newest  French  mode,  and  accompanied  by  gay  and  beautiful 
ladies,  to  whom  he  handed  out  his  gold  to  bet  for  him,  on 
account  of  their  better  luck,  with  the  most  negligent  and 
dashing  air  possible. 

"  Now,  Don  Rafael,"  said  I,  "  can  you  not  save  me  from  the 
hands  of  these  gentlemen,  your  subordinates,  and,  I  doubt 
not,  most  honorable  friends  ?  " 

"  I  have  every  disposition  to  do  so,  my  dear  Don  Eusebio," 
returned  this  chivalrous  rascal ;  "  but "  — 

"  Ah  I"  thought  I,  "  there  is  a  « but.' " 

"  In  our  fraternity  we  have  certain  rules  which  even  I 
dare  not  transgress,  even  to  prove  the  sincere  friendship  I  feel 


MONTE;    OR,    THE  JOBBERS.  357 

for  you.  One  of  these  rules  is,  that  nothing  can  be  done  by  a 
member  of  our  honorable  society  for  the  individual  benefit  of 
any  single  one  of  us,  but  that  every  step  taken  among  us  shall 
be  for  the  good  of  the  whole  association.  Unless,  then,  you 
can  show  me,  that,  by  saving  your  life,  I  shall  thereby  confer 
an  advantage  on  the  whole  partida,  I  must,  disagreeable  and 
wretched  as  it  will  make  me,  leave  you  in  the  hands  of 
these  gentlemen  to  do  as  seemeth  best  to  them.  True  it  is 
that  this  decision,  to  which  I  have  consented  only  from  a 
sense  of  its  necessity,  which  has  no  law,  irks  me  exceedingly 
in  your  case,  inasmuch  as  I  well  remember,  that,  at  our  last 
interview,  you  promised  me  my  revenge  for  the  hundred 
bright  ounces  I  lost  to  you  at  San  Agustin.  Those  shiners 
I  should  like  much  to  win  back ;  but  I  see  no  way  of  doing  so, 
as  you  have  now  no  capital  wherewith  to  commence  a  bank." 

His  last  words  restored  my  equanimity,  and  re-established 
my  confidence  in  my  own  resources.  I  now  saw  my  way 
clear  out  of  my  difficulties,  resolving  to  at  once  practise  upon 
the  all-absorbing  passion  of  the  sons  of  the  country  for  gam- 
ing. I  immediately  addressed  Don  Rafael  thus  :  — 

"  My  dear  compadre,  it  is  ill  arguing  with  a  man  who  has 
been  tied  to  a  tree,  fasting  for  two  mortal  hours  :  induce  these 
gentlemen,  then,  in  whose  faces  I  see  already  the  evidences 
of  a  relenting  spirit,  to  liberate  me  from  my  bonds  on  my 
parole  not  to  attempt  escape  (this  would  have  been  impos- 
sible under  the  circumstances,  but  I  made  a  great  merit  of 
offering  it),  and  I  will  contrive  a  means  of  gratifying  your 
very  laudable  desire,  contribute  to  the  amusement  of  your 
friends,  and  probably  increase  the  funds  in  the  military  chest 
of  your  amiable  troop.  Without  the  least  peradventure,  I  am 
confident  of  achieving  the  laudable  object  contemplated  in  the 
rule  you  mentioned,  without  causing  its  infraction  by  your- 
self." 

The  gang  agreed  to  the  proposition,  and,  I  may  say  with 


358  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET- PIPES. 

pardonable  vanity,  placed  itself  in  my  hands.  Pen,  ink,  and 
paper  were  produced  :  and  my  first  step  was  to  draw  upon  the 
banking-house  of  Escandon  &  Co.  for  a  thousand  dollars,  at 
thirty  days'  sight ;  which  draft  I  made  Hernandez  indorse  as 
security  for  my  appearance  in  person,  alive,  before  its  arrival 
at  maturity,  half  down,  and  the  balance  in  three  weeks,  or 
sooner  if  required. 

The  note,  with  a  letter,  was  despatched  at  once  by  a  mozo 
well  mounted,  who  returned  on  the  following  day  with  the 
money.  We  all  then  adjourned  to  a  small  and  secluded 
rancho  in  the  hills,  and  I  opened  my  bank  in  due  form.  All 
entered  zealously  into  my  plan,  which  they  said  would  enable 
them  to  amuse  themselves  finely  while  awaiting  the  opportu- 
nity for  some  new  exploit  in  the  way  of  their  profession. 
Don  Rafael  was  eager  for  his  revenge ;  and  the  contest  began. 

I  can  truly  assure  thee  it  was  the  keenest  encounter  of  wits 
I  ever  experienced  in  this  country,  in  which  my  practice  in 
this  line  has  not  been  small.  At  the  first  seance,  thirty-six 
hours  were  spent  without  sleep,  and  almost  without  tasting 
food.  Drink  was  out  of  the  question  ;  and,  luckily,  there  was 
none  within  reach  of  the  rancho.  At  the  expiration  of  that 
time,  my  nerves  had  become  so  tense,  owing  to  the  attention  I 
was  forced  to  give  to  the  game,  that  I  greatly  feared  a  brain 
or  nervous  fever.  With  a  little  respite,  however,  I  pulled 
through,  and,  much  relieved,  began  again,  single-handed,  the 
fight  against  this  band  of  devils,  headed  by  the  arch-fiend 
Hernandez.  Finally,  after  a  struggle  perfectly  unexampled 
in  all  my  play  at  games  of  hazard,  my  Caucasian  constitution 
and  temperament  triumphed  over  the  mixed  and  mongrel 
organization  of  the  modern  Mexican  ;  and,  after  four  days  and 
four  nights  of  arduous  exertion,  I  was  declared  the  victor. 

I  won  back  not  only  the  amount  I  had  originally  invested 
in  the  monte  bank,  my  watch,  and  the  small  sum  I  had  been 
robbed  of  by  the  villains,  but  also  their  own  spare  cash,  —  very 


MONTE;    OR,    THE  ROBBERS.  359 

little,  to  be  sure,  — half  a  dozen  indifferent  horses,  and  the  deed 
of  a  house  and  garden  in  the  city  of  Puebla  (which  I  shrewdly 
suspect  is  mortgaged  for  its  full  value),  a  bag  full  of  opened 
letters  rifled  from  the  diligences,  a  gold-headed  cane,  a  case  of 
surgical  instruments,  the  wardrobe  of  a  travelling  actress,  and 
a  splendid  lace  cap  and  cloak  that  has  served  at  the  christen- 
ing of  some  baby  of  wealthy  and  aristocratic  parentage. 

After  the  battle  had  been  won,  my  mind  was  at  ease ;  for  I 
knew  that  these  gentlemanlike  scoundrels  would  religiously 
observe  the  sanctity  of  their  gambling-debts;  and  I  lay  down 
on  the  hard  hide  bedstead  of  the  poor  rancho,  leaving  my 
stakes  on  the  table  we  had  used  for  play,  without  a  doubt 
of  their  perfect  security. 

I  was  saved ;  and  for  full  twenty-four  hours  I  slept,  uninter- 
ruptedly, the  sleep  of  the  just. 

I  awoke  restored  in  mind  and  body ;  partook  of  chocolate 
prepared  by  a  nice-looking  moza,  who  acted  as  the  Dona 
Leonarda  of  the  brigands ;  and  ordered  up  one  of  my  horses. 
I  then  magnanimously  divided  among  the  robbers  all  the 
property  I  had  won  from  them,  generously  adding  a  couple 
of  hundred  dollars  of  the  five  hundred  received  from  the  house 
of  Escandon  &  Co. 

At  parting  I  received  the  congratulations  of  the  band,  with 
thanks  for  the  amusement  I  had  afforded  them,  and  promised 
one  and  all  that  I  would  gladly  give  them  their  revenge  in 
case  of  our  meeting  again.  I  then  mounted  and  took  the 
road  hitherwards,  piloted  as  far  as  the  camino  real  by  one 
of  the  bandits.  I  arrived  only  yesterday,  and  me  voila  ! 

I  do  not  know  why  the  rascals  did  not  hold  me  to  ransom, 
which  they  might  have  done,  and  reaped,  perhaps,  a  large 
pecuniary  benefit ;  but  I  suppose  the  high  stakes  for  which  I 
played  —  my  life  and  liberty  —  added  so  much  to  the  excite- 
jiu'ut  of  the  game,  that  it  possessed  a  corresponding  attraction, 
lor  them. 


360  PUFFS  FROM  PICKET-PIPES. 

I  most  fervently  hope,  however,  that  I  may  never  renew  my 
acquaintance  with  Mexican  brigands,  or  repeat  my  game  of 
inoi it <•  under  the  like  circumstances ;  for  all  my  strength  was 
required  to  support  the  strain  upon  my  mental  faculties  and 
nervous  system,  and  never  before  did  I  so  much  feel  the  need 
of  perfect  repose  as  at  this  moment. 

The  sense  of  honor  displayed  by  Hernandez  and  his  band, 
any  of  them  being  ready  to  cut  my  throat  in  an  instant  with- 
out remorse  at  ordinary  times,  forcibly  reminds  me  of  the 
hero  of  one  of  your  finest  poets,  —  a  man 

"Of  one  virtue,  and  a  thousand  crimes." 


UCLA-College  Library 

F1213R32k 


L  005  745  764  0 


College 
Library 

F 

1213 

R32k 


JSSfflfi*  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


nimni    111    ii  ii    111  lllllllllllllll  Mm  l||[  mil  in  mi 

A     001  095  221     6 


